TomG

I may be wrong, but the top of the bag looks rolled.

Thanks. Much appreciated...

This is the one I have/

This is the one I have/

I just got a new machine with the CSM-1000 but it did not have the instructions on adjusting the settings. Does anyone have a digital copy that they can email me? Thanks

Bad Girl

I did. I was launching from a bookmark..The bookmark is pointing to www.leatherworker.net/content. Delete the bookmark, and put www.leathertworker.net in the address bar. When it comes up, it will have replaced /content with /forum. Save this new bookmark and ti should work. At least that is what I had to do. Tom

Only if you put it on wrong. 50/50 mix with water. 2 or 3 light coats, allowing it to dry between coats. On straps, I flex them a little as they dry.. about 30 second or so.. just until they aren't "wet". Tom

PM'ing you <g>

Well, after reading for hours, I decided to go with a cylinder arm machine. I need it fairly quickly so I found a "new" one at the local sewing machine company. But I need some advice. I had gone in with the Consew in mind. But I have read so much I am over-saturated. They have a supposedly new Techsew 2800, "U"-table, lamp, etc. The owner was not in, but his tech people were not sure if it was new or used. It has oil stains on most of the edges of the covers. the weird part is that is it only on the front edges. It almost looks like it was laid with it's front down for a while and the oil seeped under the covers in the front. Other than that, it is pristine. So, we loaded up some 138 top and bottom and tried to sew a couple of layers of 7/8 oz veg-tan. I have to say, it sewed very smoothly. Techsew has done a good job on their motor mods for it to start out as slowly and smoothly as it did. The stitching at around 5 SPI was good and consistent. Until we hit reverse. Birds nest on the bottom. The tech fussed with the tension a bit and could not eliminate them. He changed the needle to a x16 (had an x17) and it still nested. They dropped to #92 thread in top and it was better but still tangled looking. He finally got another tech to look at it. He opened the bobbin area and said the fingers were adjusted wrong. Then he said the hook and plate needed to be adjusted. The other issue I am questioning is the binder. This machine has the binder attached. I spoke to Techsew and described the parts I saw in a drawer - some different feeders and a smooth plate - and he thought that was the set of parts needed to convert to non-binder use. But, I'm a worry-wart, so I'm looking for some second opinions. So.. at $1500, I only have 1 shot at making the right decision or I'll be sleeping on the couch for a while Should I look at something like the Consew 227 or the Techsew 2700, if he has them locally? Or jump on the 2800 if they get it reversing properly? Any other issues I should consider? Does Techsew take the standard Siger type feet, etc? Thanks all.

I'm going to probably sell my 111W155. Good mechanical condition. Consew servo motor with small pulley. Anyone have an idea of a fair asking price?

Tandy used to make a roughening brush. It was basically a cat grooming brush on a wirebrush handle. If you have the equivalent of our WalMart, or Dollar stores in Germany, check there. Or a pet store. I'd dye it first, then brush to roughen. As always, try a scrap piece first. http://www.petsmart.com/cat/brushes-combs/grreat-choice-soft-slicker-short-haired-cat-brush-zid36-11863/cat-36-catid-200088;pgid=C19a.f_V3SNSRpReCpJ8O0ID0000HTquanYw;sid=fcs3_7IyH8Ul_-Tv3Jx2-4A4shWlM9ub5LNI3EAe?var_id=36-11863&_t=pfm%3Dcategory

Yeah. I agree with Dwight.. But I think you said you wanted a dark brown with light highlights. I can only assume that you want the highest parts of the design lighter? First, understand that you are mixing acrylic sealers with water based antiquing and who knows what black dye. I never use Saddle Lac for a resist, which is what you are trying to do. If you want the tops lighter here's how I'd do it. I would use Neutral Leather Balm with Atom Wax and a block dye technique to quickly put a thin layer of LB on the peaks. Let it dry. Do it a second time. Again... Light coat applied quickly. Let it dry. Then I would use a sponge and medium brown oil dye and apply the dye in a single stroke as much as possible. Then quickly use a pad of old tee shirt the rub across the strap to knock off the excess. You don't want to flood it or it will dye those peaks from the bottom up. Let this dry. Then I'd use a brush to apply the black oil dye. Let it dry. NOW you can saddle lac it lightly. I'd forget the leather sheen. Hate the stuff, but lots of people use it.. Get you another strap and try again if Dwights cleaning tip doesn't fix it.

Why not just buy a new spring. Check with sewingmachines.com or one of the sponsors in the banners at the top of the page? Tom

Thanks Wiz. I'll go research those needles now. I obviously didn't know that was "normal" for bottom stitches. I guess I expected them to look like the top stitches when all was in order. The total thickness was 16 oz, and is probably the thickest I've sewn. I was happy with how the machine performed. Just wish I had a machine like the 206Rx with reverse. If I get to the point where I'm sewing a lot, I'll invest in an upgrade at that time <g>. For now, I've got my eyes out for a speed reducer pulley for cheap. Probably won't find one, but I can hope. I've got it running pretty slow, but the initial takeoff could be slower. Anyway. Thanks for the help and advice.

Got a dupe image...

Hi All, I am pretty inexperienced at sewing, but learning. I have a Singer 111W155 with a Consew Servo motor that I have put the slowdown mod in. It seems to sew fine, but my bottom stitches look pretty bad. I'm not sure why. I'm attaching some photos here of the top and bottom. Tops look good, I think, but the bottoms are U-G-L-Y. I know I need to loosen the presser foot pressure, but what can I do about the little circle and "thin: look to them. I think the circle is the hole that the needle goes through. But is it a tension issue, presser foot issue or a combination of both? Using 138 thread, 23 leather point needle. Thanks

2 that come to mind right away goldstartools.com standardrivet.com

I'm looking for some 2.5, 3.0 and 3.5 curb chain in SS and solid brass if you have a source for those and reasonable prices.

Fantastic. Did you do the design/programming yourself or find instructions elsewhere? Would it work on any of the servo motors like the Consew?

Agree with Heavy. Call them before blasting them.. The link you gave shows the website listing. It clearly says these are a good quality leather but is a leftover from their belt production. So they have been handled and I would expect some nicks and blemishes on various pieces.

I am trying to learn to do bags and that is exactly the bag I have been looking for a pattern for. Can you tell me where you got the pattern? I need to get a copy. I've been researching bags and have seen any number of different materials used for linings. The one I liked to idea of best was one using a fusible vinyl. I think you iron it to the wrong side of the fabric of your choice and it creates a leak resistance lining. You can probably get it at a fabric store.

Yeah.. I can understand your frustration. I was just giving you a heads up that he was showing 8 weeks now. I agree that delays beyond what you've quoted should always be addressed with an email or phone call. Hope you get it resolved soon.

I use 2 products exclusively. 95% of the time, I use full strength acrylic floor wax - Mop 'n Glo. I apply 2 -3 coats, allowing at least 4-6 hours between.. usually closer to 8+ hours. I use Fiebings oil dye almost exclusively after the final dry. I use a sponge to apply quickly and evenly and a paper towel to dab up any excess on the resisted areas... mainly the grooves left from the stamps. Otherwise, if you have missed getting the resist down in the groove, the dye can leech under the resist. Now, this method does not block 100% of the dye penetrating, but gives a contrasting effect. Different colors seem to give different results. Now, for even better protection, you can use Woodlands Latex Rubber. Paint on 3 heavy coats, letting each dry totally. As with the wax, you must get down in the grooves, or you'll have ugly streaks and splotches. Once you dye, peel the rubber off and you;ll have pretty much bare leather underneath. A couple of points.... Apply your dye quickly and as lightly as possible. The heavier the sponge is loaded with dye, the more bleed through you'll have. You just need to practice to see the effects of different techniques. Next, you can not dip dye using thiese techniques. Finally, if you dye the back side, you have a much greater chance of the dye showing under the resist. I'll try to attach a photo or 2 here. Good luck

I don't know Ed, but have heard good things about his stuff. He does have a notice on his site that mauls are an 8-week item. And things happen to delay production at times - especially for those of us who do this as a second income. Hopefully he will contact you soon and get everything resolved. Luck