TomG

I had this happen once when I had the bobbin installed the wrong way. Check it like MikeSC said.

I saw some of these at the Ren-Fair here in Atlanta. The leather felt like upholstery leather. Soft, and a bit pliable. I assumed it was glued together. I actually introduced myself and tried to discuss the technique (I have no shame ), but I really am not interested in make these for sale. Too many other irons in the fire. But the gal at the booth said she was just an employee and had no idea of how they were made. But I do like the white leather glue idea. It "feels" right. It stays flexible, yet will hold the leather together. I'd use the plastic clips they sell to hold cloth together for sewing the seams. Expensive, but nice. About #0 for a box of 50, but with a coupon from JoAnns it drops it can drop in half...

Found out today that this press will take the Tandy dies. Thanks for all of the input

I did actually think of the inserts, but haven't had time to follow up on it. Wish I still had my metal lathe

I have a United Carr M369 press and am looking for dies. I'd specifically like to find dies for Segma snaps and maybe a few others. Anyone have some for sale/trade? Or does anyone know of a brand or source of dies that will fit? Thanks

If you find 2, let me know

Before you use a syringe, make sure the end cap makes it waterproof. If you overfill the chamber, it may leak out. Not sure though.

I use mine for cutting the slits for doing mystery braid and stuff. It's a PITA to change setups for different sizes, and that black holddown bar is a bit flimsy, but it does a good job of doing what it's designed for after it's set up. Be sure to use sharp blades. Stropping them once in a while helps.

If you try to pour dye in, you're probably going to have a mess. Pull the cap off the top and slide the sponge tube out. Drop one end into a small bottle of dye for a few minutes and let it saturate. Then put it back into the pen and cap it back up. Dip the tip into the bottle to pre-wet it and you're good to go. When it runs out, just resoak the sponge tube. I really like mine.

So, where do you get the stuff to do it and are there any issues with doing it by hand?

Generally, when you fold a thicker piece like that, you wet the back side down a bit, let it soak in a few minutes and then do the fold. Tom

This had me puzzled. I have used Tandy's double cap rivets for years now and never experienced that problem. I believe they use the same caps as the rapid rivets. I set a few in a strap and rubbed the hell out of them on my desktop, a formica embroidery table top, a cutting board and my granite slab. I rub hard, like I was doing a rough cut when sharpening a knife. The only one that showed the base metal was the slab. I'm not sure what's going on with yours. Any way for you to post photos? I am getting ready to switch to the solid brass rivets and may switch to OTB for them if Tandy is having quality issues now. I can see them cutting down on the plating thickness to save money. Tom

Hi Wiz, Thanks,,, Yep. Already did the decision on a bottom price. I always do that anyway . Don't think I put FIRM on it though.... I just got in from vacation, so will check that tomorrow . I haven't had to battle the Nigerians lately, but I've had a few "official" Microsoft support folks form Manila call to tell me my PC was in serious trouble and the could fix it. I couple of them even held on while I "had the FBI start a phone trace on the call". Talk about being faithful to a script. Hmm ... I wonder how long they held on after I hung up? Thanks Tom

Thanks for the input, Floyd. I've had a few inquiries locally but they were from people who wanted it for next to nothing. I don't really mind shipping, but was not up to speed on ways and costs. I have a much better handle on it now. Thanks to all Tom

Thanks to all. Guess I'll just keep my listing as local Too much expense for this old singer 155 Tom

What is the best way and approx cost to ship, say, a Consew 206 and table? I know it depends on distance and weight, but just looking for a ballpark Thanks

If you get a pair of flush cutting nippers, and if you can reach the riet post between the layers, you can cut them out with almost no sign of it. Depending on the leather and such. I have on occasion, been able to use them to gently get under the cap and cut or pry it loose. Tandy does carry a nickle plated brass that may hold up better, but I've never used them, so can't attest to that. Tom

Hi BigMatt. I am finally getting around to mounting the binding foot I bought. I meant to ask you.... Did you have to replace the feed dogs and needle plate or did the ones that came with the machine work OK? If you replaced them what did you use? Thanks

NE of Atlanta, GA

Found it. Thanks. Yeah.. He's proud of his stuff.. But in all fairness, a lot of those items take a LOT of work... And the hardware is probably a bit steep. Let me know how the hat goes. I won't spend that much on a pattern unless I KNOW I'm going to make one <g>....

Where did you find the pattern? I did an internet search and tried the URL on the photo and can't find it.

It's called a overstitcher or a stitching wheel

Still have this machine for sale. Reduced to $625

I saw some of these at a Ren-Faire a while back and found them intriguing. How is the leather secured/stiffened and how is the eye secured? I assume some form of glue. I'm thinking of making one for my grandson since he's gotten into Harry Potter lately Thanks

What did you use for the end caps?