TomG

Thanks to all. Guess I'll just keep my listing as local Too much expense for this old singer 155 Tom

What is the best way and approx cost to ship, say, a Consew 206 and table? I know it depends on distance and weight, but just looking for a ballpark Thanks

If you get a pair of flush cutting nippers, and if you can reach the riet post between the layers, you can cut them out with almost no sign of it. Depending on the leather and such. I have on occasion, been able to use them to gently get under the cap and cut or pry it loose. Tandy does carry a nickle plated brass that may hold up better, but I've never used them, so can't attest to that. Tom

Hi BigMatt. I am finally getting around to mounting the binding foot I bought. I meant to ask you.... Did you have to replace the feed dogs and needle plate or did the ones that came with the machine work OK? If you replaced them what did you use? Thanks

NE of Atlanta, GA

Found it. Thanks. Yeah.. He's proud of his stuff.. But in all fairness, a lot of those items take a LOT of work... And the hardware is probably a bit steep. Let me know how the hat goes. I won't spend that much on a pattern unless I KNOW I'm going to make one <g>....

Where did you find the pattern? I did an internet search and tried the URL on the photo and can't find it.

It's called a overstitcher or a stitching wheel

Still have this machine for sale. Reduced to $625

I saw some of these at a Ren-Faire a while back and found them intriguing. How is the leather secured/stiffened and how is the eye secured? I assume some form of glue. I'm thinking of making one for my grandson since he's gotten into Harry Potter lately Thanks

What did you use for the end caps?

They hire unexperienced people and expect them to sell products they do not understand. This is all wel and good IF they allow the manager and other staff to train the people. And this would require crafting leather. It's a cost of doing business if you want to hire people who have no experience. It's up to the manager to control when they do this - during downtime I can understand them not wanting them to do "side job" stuff at work, but a blanket ban is ridiculous.

I'm in Tandy frequently and they've shown me their work. Maybe they did it at home and brought it in. I thought they did it there. I'll have e to ask next trip. But I agree. They should be allowed to tool leather. As long as the store and customer is not neglected. Ad that should be a manager call Tom

First, I believe you are talking about a side, not skin. Second, 18 sq ft is not a usable number. There will be unusable leather on that side. Too much fat, too many flaws, too much stretch, short pieces, etc. Third, if you're going to line them, you might want to use thick leather for the strap and thin or splits for the lining. Sounds like you are just doubling up. About the best you can hope for is to measure the side as if cut into a rectangle and hope you get to use 75% - 80% of it. It will vary by the actual piece

Yeah.. I'm not a prude by any means, but i don't think that's appropriate for this type of forum. And especially not on the main page. If it was a "biker" site, it might be expected, but I think most of the ladies.. and all of the kids.. don't need that.

I haven't seen the page(s) you are referring to. But, IMHO, skulls in the mix of leathercraft are fine with me. I've done them, but don't "focus" on them at all. But I agree with biker. We have an Adult section that questionable "art" and discussion belongs in. And honestly, I feel that you can be "adult" without all the profanity. What's that saying? Profanity is the sign of a small mind? Or something like that.. See. I just wrote 10+ sentences and not a single swear word !!!! Yea Me.. Bwhahahahahaha.

Has anyone used this to support soft leather when sewing bags? I saw it on a Leather Bag Tutorial I bought. It is supposed to stop stretching as you sew. I only found one place that carries it and shipping is more than the roll of tape. Any idea of if it's worth it or if there is a more readily available substitute? Thanks

Google "how to install a zipper" for more info than you can handle. Did you sew it in last? You usually want to sew the zipper in first and then sew the leather together with grain sides facing. Than turn it right-side out. That light leather should be sewable with a home machine and size 18 needles if you go slow.

Thanks. I kind of feared those would be the answers. I guess I'll just keep using my stainless strap to scrape them and maybe put a set on the other end for browns and such.

I have one of the Harbor Freight buffers. Great tool for cheap. I have stacked 2 or 3 of the firm pads to one side and mainly use it to buff straps that I have dip dyed black. It does a great job of removing the loose dyestuffs from the flesh and grain sides of the leather. After that, I finish with Black Leather Balm with Atom Wax and get virtually no ruboff.. After I buff, I use a piece of stainless strap and push the end of it into the wheel to try and knock the dyestuffs out of the wheel. I'd like to use it to buff other color straps, but not with those wheels, I think. Is there a way to clean them on the machine to use on other colors so I don't have to constantly swap out wheels? Thanks

Try this and scroll to the top

Even better, do a search here for Sandal Patterns. I seem to recall seeing a pretty good tutorial on making them a while back. I'll look as well.

Still.. the main point is that with a dog collar, the ring should have the leather going through it and then folded back around to hold it in place. Or a keeper strap riveted in place. Just like the keeper loop on a belt. And never, ever, ever put an economy, non-welded D-ring on a collar. Later

Easy fix. Put the collar through the D-ring and secure in place with a 1-1/2" long "tongue" using anything from glue to stove bolts. Doesn't matter if it breaks. It it breaks the collar in half, the animal has no business being on a leash!!!

I've used Tandy double-cap brass and nickle plated rivets for 10 years. I've had very, very few problems with them and 99% of those were me. 1/8" is too tall. 90% of the time, the post is going to lean or shift to the side. Especially if the hole is too large. The hole should be just big enough to let the cap set all the way down. 1/16" is the recommended height for all rapid and double cap rivets to the best of my knowledge. To use a "too long" rivet, I use a pair of fine, flush-cutting cutters to trim them to size once put into the leather and then reshape the post with them as well. I've had maybe 5 failures in those 10 years that I am aware of. I've also set them with and without the concave base. I've never seen any difference other than visual - flat base vs domed base. All of this being said, I recently bought the Goldstar press and dies. I have set countless double caps that were at least 1/8th" above the surface and had zero posts leaning over. I leave the dies in all the time and just grab it, set it on the bench and go. Just be aware that the Goldstar double cap dies are marked in mm size and Tandy rivets are all mis-sized. I beleive the mediums are marked as 7mm and are actually 8mm. So you have to buy a die size larger. Their Line 20 snap dies are not cut to fit the Tandy snaps either. They fit everybody else's, per the guy at the store. Good luck