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Everything posted by TomG
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I use a slow speed buffer to buff out the loose dyestuff on the darker colors.. black, navy, etc. Then, I rub in a coat of Leather Balm with Atom Wax. Buff Then, I seal with several coats of 50/50 Resolene. Water to dilute. Let dry thoroughly between coats and buff with a piece of lambs wool between. I have never been able to 100% stop bleed in every case, but most of the time, it does the trick.
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I'm not a pro at all of the different compounds, but.. In the comments someone asked if he was using beeswax to burnish and he said yes. A few comments down someone asked about the process and he said it was just balm. I know there are many concoctions for treating leather. Lots are based on beeswax, mineral oil, tallow, fariry dust and magic I use Fiebings Leather balm with atom wax for many of my products, but it's a liquid. Recently, Fiebings stopped making the various colors of it and just sells Neutral now. I used the black and brown versions daily and preferred those over Neutral so I email and was put in touch with one of their chemists. He said that I could make my own by combining the Neutral with Tandys Eco-Flo water-based dye. He said to experiment with ratios, I settled on 25% dye and it seemed to work well. HOWEVER, I have gradually just stuck to the neutral as I have switched to dip dying most of my items and it works as well as the colored wax. For small, hand-dyed items, the colored versions seem to even out andy sponge or dauber marks. NOW, if you have some of the paste type of balm, try taking a small dab and mixing some dye in and see how it works. It might or it might not. Can't hurt to try!
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The listing says it's a chain stitch machine. If I remember correctly, that's the type of stitch that you see on top of dog food bags so you can remove a lock stitch at one end and pull the thread end. You literally unzip the bag. Not what you want for leather, clothing or any durable goods. Plus, it sounds pretty lightweight. Hopefully, someone much more knowledgable than me will chime in. Tom
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Zipper installation multipurpose guide
TomG replied to RockyAussie's topic in 3D Printers and Lasers
Wow. Great idea and concept. I'll print some out as soon as I reassemble my printer. Adding some upgrades as time allows -
Print the pages 100% to 8.5 x 11 inch paper. Trim all the pages to the outer black lines. Thanks just line up the ticks "A" to "A", "B" to "B" (or A1 - A1, A2-A@, etc)> Then tape them together as you go. You will then have a full size pattern.
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Does someone have this motor and have it set up to sew really slow. Can you share your settings with me? Mine does sew pretty slow, but it's hard to do a single stitch. I feel I'm close, but just need a little tweek. Also, does anyone experience it stitching a couple of stitches after you left up on the pedal? Usually ONLY within the firt couple of starts.
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Does anyone make a piping foot for the Consew walking foot machines?
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Use a Hangman's Knot. It also has a few other names. Fishermans knot, etc. You can use it on rope, string, jewelry cord, fishing line and whatever. I would suggest no less that 4 wraps.. more for larger rope/string.
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No way that I know of. They are not meant to be opend so far that they bend. I use a pocket knife to open them just enough to slide over the ring I'm putting them on and then just rotate around.
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Here you go..
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Heat pressing vinyl lettering onto veg tan leather
TomG replied to BoulevardEast's topic in How Do I Do That?
I heat press logos onto Latigo all the time. I use the the metallic stretch in gold from JSI Signs. Heavy pressure and a cool peel. I've tried scraping it off and can't. I can use acetone and remove it, but that's about it. https://shop.jsisigns.com/perfecpress-metallic-stretch-soft-foil-sheets--sheets-p10.aspx -
Thanks. Much better quality than the other copies that I found. Tom
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thanks. Is there a link or way to get the entire manual? I have 155 that I need to do a total adjustment to.
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I'd like to see the manual. Is there a way to post it to Dropbox or something so you don't have to scale it down? I could give you a Dropbox folder to put it in.
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I have had 1 or 2 sides from them that had a core which was hard as fiberglass and even looked like it. I could barely cut one of them with a saw Try it with a box knife and new blade. If that has a problem take it back.
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The rod you get at the hardware store should be more than ample. You are talking about kids and either wood or Poly mallets I would assume. You never hit any of these with a steel hammer anyway. Yes, you mix the 2 parts in equal amounts. And only what you'll use in about 1/3 - 1/2 of the setting time. I would not suggest putting the 2 part is and mixing there. You need to premix it until it's grey. If I was going to do a bunch of these, I would take a piece of wood, drill holes that would just hold the rods, with enough space between them for the stamp to clear. Put a rod in each hole. Mix up the JB (I use Popsicle sticks) and put a small amount on the end of the rod. Then, slide the stamp on. I would work fairly quickly so that I could put something on top of the assembly and weigh it or clamp it down a bit. Just so you don't loose the adhesion from expansion. A couple of things,,, The rods need to be pretty straight out of the stamp. As close to a right angle as possible. if the rod is a tight fit, don't put hardly JB in the bottom. It is thick and a tight fit won't allow it to spread up the shaft. This is fine as you will put more around the outside where the rod and stamp meet. You just don't want a slug of JB in the bottom of the hole and almost no rod in the hole <g>... Make sure you wipe the tstamp hole and rod down with something to remove any oil or grease before assembly. Good luck
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Take a stamp of each size to Home Depot ot Lowes or other hardware store and find the proper steel rod to fit. Cut it to lengths that match the "real" handles. Grind off any rough or sharp edges on the top end. You may be able to get a small machine shop to donate time to do the cutting and grinding. Or a parent who has the appropriate tools at home Use JB Weld to put a SMALL dab in the hole. Then spread some around the junction of the shaft and the top of the stamp. Once dry, it's not coming apart. Oh.. Be sure to use the regular stuff. It takes longer to set, but it gives you more working time. Even still, don't mix more than you can apply in about 3 or 4 minutes.
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I've used OTB for years and never felt gouged. They now offer USPS flat rates, so lighter items should be less. I ordered a bunch of brass buckles and Dee rings a while back and I think it cost around $11 in a flat rate. Yeah.. Buckle guy has some good stuff, but I balk at a $5 handling fee. I usually have a $1 handling fee added in automatically, but that's just to cover my direct envelope and "label" costs. I don;t feel that I should make a profit on the shipping. Oh.. try cdw plus.. They don't carry a whole lot but are a good source for low quantities and prices include S&H. Mainly they have snap swivels, Dee's round rings and such. Plus they have some plastic stuff. http://cdwplus.com/
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Various sized rivets, different base-same head?
TomG replied to Mocivnik's topic in How Do I Do That?
I think it's the Leatherworkers Manual, or the Leather Tools book, they show how to cut down longer rivets to size. I'm out of town right now but maybe someone else has a copy and can confirm which one and maybe even post the picture. -
Oh yeah. That's why I'm so puzzled. The only thing I can figure out is that I am putting a hell.of a lot of torque on them screwing them in so maybe when they stripped out.
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Not shrinkage. He said they are coming out. He resells them, so...
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Yeah.. I've done th e Loctite Blue and the superglue, but this customer says they keep coming loose. I think he's not being 100 percent straight with me, so Red it is. If he still loses screws, then he's fired. I've already done that once but he can't find anyone else stupid enough to do these so I took o e more order from him. Already regretting it
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That's the one. I think I got mine for around $20 on sale
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After Fredk's suggestion, put it in a room with an Ozone generator for a few hours. Make sure no one is around to breathe the ozone
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Oh yeah.. He's paying for the change. Damn near as much as new leashes. But, if I can remove the screws relatively quickly, it will be the easier method for me.