Reaper

Put your MM inside between the leather. It is ridiculous for them to make such a request. period

Up front, though I meet most of my customers face to face and it keeps me busy enough without doing on line sales. I learned a long time ago working on peoples homes, that you never build anything for anyone with your dime. Take a deposit that covers the materials at least, and the labor upon completion. You could not imagine how many people loved the Job being done while it was being done, bragging it up to friends and such only to get poor and think it was time to haggle when it was time to pay. So I quit operating on my money to do peoples jobs and I quit eating $$$$ a year by doing so.

My Boss came with a rod machined to accept the thread in a slot, you then place the bobbin over it and stick the other end in a drill. You have to work it back and forth with your finger as a guide though. I've been kicking around the idea of taking an Old Penn Bait Caster fishing reel and seeing if I can modify it to accept the bobbins, then I can just hand crank it onto the bobbin with whatever tension I set the drag too.

Ditto with me on the Keen Edgers. I actually sharpen them now and again with a strop and they work fantastic...

Sweet !

Very nice from what the filter allows you to see, the filer kind of blends everything together. Good looking though!

btw: I drive to Tandy in Tampa now and then and hand pick my shoulders and sides and never have an issue. But, I do avoid buying leather on line from them....

good points, but the CZ's trigger has a long travel in double action so as it is it won't be an issue. If it was cocked and molded like it is, in single action, I for sure wouldn't want to mold to the face of the trigger edge... "BANG" is not a user friendly sound or feeling !! lol

I do some gun smithing for comp guns and CZ is the only one I shoot in IPSC and IDPA comp's. Seems that everyone that picks one of mine up and shoots it wants to buy it or have me build one for them. lol The only thing I really see that I would question about the holster would be the mag release. You want to make sure you do not let it get closer than 1/8 th inch to the mag release. I found that out early on, when drawing my SP01 and lining it up on the first target in a run, I squeezed off the first round and the mag dropped out. I wasn't sure what caused it, just figured I had not seated it properly. So the second run it happened again, but this time I actually was paying attention to it. Later that night I checked and found that with the way I rock my wrist, the mag release would actually come in contact with the holster and hit the button just enough to almost release the mag all the way, the recoil of the first shot was enough to release it the rest of the way. I cut that are back a little and the.problem went away. Granted it is an extended mag release on the SP01, but I cut back the ones on my carry holsters for my 75b and compact holsters all the same. No mag makes it a really crappy short club.. heh

http://vanamburgleather.com/leathers/ the above link might make it a little easier....

Looks good and should work very good for the pistol. btw, CZ are one of the best pistols going.

WIll using the groover on the edges and up at the weapon itself help with keeping the bottom stitch looking uniform and clean so if doesn't look like it is pulling leather up and around the stitches?

sweet looking Sharkies! Liking the Avenger type out of the two most, but both are very *nice* in all sense of the words meaning...

Thank you Denster. I wish I had read this again before making my order. I'll have to call them in the morning and see about having the bottle and lube removed from the order if I can catch it before shipping. If not, I'll give it a try and see if it does make any difference one way or the other...

Have a question about lubing thread.... I am sending my Boss in for a total rebuild as it will not hold tension and it snaps needles so often that I can not get 2 inches of stitching done before it breaks one. Anyway, I am also picking up a few of the things I need at the same time to be shipped back with my machine. Bobbins, Thread, Needles are on the short list, but I was wondering about the Lube Attachment and Lube. Would it be something I could actually get some use out of doing Holsters, Saddle Bags, Belts and possibly Rifle Boots ? Will it be more trouble using it than it is worth or should I not worry about lube?

heh, yeah, Lobo, lots of dog chews here too... though, seems that even a nixed attempt can be turned into a jewel in most instances. For me, a full size and a compact are good to go with a pancake, sub compact, not so good....

I wouldn't touch it...

Back in the 70's I worked with my older brother putting together Pool Enclosures down here in Florida. Come summer we would some times knock off around 2:00 because of the Sun and home owners would at times get a bit miffed about it. When one would we would bring in an Egg the next day, crack it and place it on one of the pieces of Bronze Aluminum we were using to build these things and ask how they liked their Egg's? Kind of put things into perspective for them, it wasn't being in the sun that was a both, but that damn metal could actually cook your hands to blister in no time.

Shoot katsass, you could just about make a circle of stones and have an oven out there! Did some work up at Window Rock in the summer back in 1996 and was surprised at the dryness and heat.

Really like this, beautiful in all respects...

Maybe I should clarify. I don't heat dry, I live in Florida and do much of my work in the Sun. That is why I do not see what use in using a drying box.

don't see a point in it, imo

very nice overall for sure, couple of things probably already mentioned.... Don't cover the mag release, upon drawing the firearm or while carrying and moving around, the leather could depress it releasing the mag and itcould possibly be discovered when they draw the pistol and the mag falls out when it is needed most. Don't leave so much sweat shield at the back where the thumb comes around the grip and frame so that they lock the pistol in their holster when attempting to get a solid grip when drawing the weapon.

I like it allot, very nice. I do agree with adding more of a cant to the pistol. Only because it makes it a more natural motion when you draw it. If you do cant it more along the lines of 35 - 40 degrees, I would add a tension screw set with hose inside to add friction on the dust cover. Place it down near the bottom of the dust cover. This will make sure it doesn't flip out of the holster if he is knocked down, or has to run and jump, but it will allow him to also draw the firearm.

Cool beans! Really like those rig's and a number of people have asked about Single Six holsters but I've been putting them off.