Ferg

When I make a wallet....... If you are going to carve the outside portion, use at least 4-5oz. For a wallet that is easy on your pocket when carrying it I like to use 2 - 3oz on the outside with Kangaroo or pigskin if you will, on the inside. These are normally about 1 - 1.5oz. For ladies wallets you can use colors more easily and then the goat skin or kidskin comes into play, they are thin, also very stretchy. Skiving edges that become multiple layers helps immensely on thickness. I make "Change" wallets complete with Kangaroo. They are very easy to place in a pocket or a ladies purse and hold change and some paper money if desired. Ferg

I have done some fairly extensive experimentation with the edge paint. Thought some of you might be interested in what I have found. Several folks sell this little tool. Best applicator for edge painting I have found among several. I am currently using Giardini mostly because I think it is one of the best out there. Has great consistency out of the bottle. Don't dip this tool into the large, 250ml/1000ml, bottle. The grooves on it have a tendency to pick up some little bits of loose leather you may have left behind so they get transferred into the large bottles and contaminate them. I have two or three different sized bottles I use, most are available at craft stores. Shake the large containers briskly then tap on the sides gently to dispense with the bubbles that occur and mess up your edge job. Pour a small amount of the paint into the small container with a tight closure. Don't dip the tool more that just about to the large diameter edge of the brass. I tap the tool on the edge of container so there isn't so much paint on it. I roll paint onto edge so that finish side is facing me making the large end of tool the same. I have yet to get paint onto either the backside or front of the leather I have used it on. Have edge painted 1 mm thickness out to a quarter inch plus. You must prime the edge with any one of the manufacturers clear edge agent. I bought a 1000 ml bottle of Fenice when I first started using the edge paint, it works great with those I have tried for finishes. I sand the edges very lightly before sealing, allow the sealer to dry for several hours or over night, then sand very lightly again with 600 grit sand paper/cloth. Two coats of finish are all that is needed with the Giardini with most leathers. I am sure some leather could possibly need more applications. Veg Tanned or Chrome tanned both do very well. I haven't tried any oiled leather, I doubt the products would stick very well. The finish paints dry in 15 or 20 minutes but I don't put the leather pieces to work for at least 24 hours. Have made coasters of finished leather and unfinished, horse hide and cowhide, Kangaroo, it doesn't seem to matter from my experience. If I am going to put a row of stitching at the coaster edge, I do that before painting. Using a roller or stationary sewing guide drags a little against the edge paint. Obviously if you don't need to use a guide that doesn't matter. I bought a set of brass edge irons for a modified solder iron which I find practically worthless for what I have done so far. Simply do not need it. I have no problem with edges falling off, cracking, buckling, or anything else. I have the paint on an iPhone case that is over a year old and I give the cases a bad way to go in my daily work, no deterioration. In my research I found the Fenice paint to be too "Runny" in consistency. Found a product that is used in all latex paints known as HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE, HEC FOR SHORT, guess what it does!!!! used as a thickening agent. Comes as a very fine powder, Amazon has it, I bought a 6oz. bottle. You can get it in larger quantities of course. If you have Fenice product, pour a little into a small container adding a very small amount of the HEC so you can see what it does or when you reach the consistency you desire. If I can answer any questions you may have let me know. Ferg

I have a Tormek system. Have sharpened a number of scissors and like tools including knippers/shears for trimming goats hooves. Folks they were for, said they were sharper than original. further proof that most all so called sharp tools from sellers are simply not sharp. lol Ferg

Bought the Singer to sew gussets, have changed the manner in which I do that. This machine dates back to 1911. Excellent condition (refurbished). Uses small bobbin. I have been able to stitch up 6 or 7 spi. in thin leather. Will handle 3/16" thickness in leather with no problems using up to #92 thread. Obviously a "Patcher". You can sew boot tops, patches on sleeves or jackets/shirts. I custom built the wooden table complete with steel post and Cherry wood foot pedal. Digital Servo. Extra leather belt material. Uses needles available almost everywhere. Thread spool holder included, no lighting. Copy of original manual. Everything on machine fully operable. Mounted on rolling, locking casters. Asking $900.00 complete. Would rather not ship. Available for pickup in Southwestern Ohio. Questions: Please PM me. Ferg Ferg

Bought this Skiver from Bob Kovar. Thought I would use it a lot but find I have very little use for it. Probably used 3 months, kept lubricated and sharpened, excellent condition, includes two extra rollers, top and bottom feed, Digital Servo Motor. Machine mounted on "K" style stand with foot pedal control. Has a disposal chute for scrap ejection. Asking $1350.00 Would rather not ship, can be picked up in Southwestern Ohio. Machine weighs approximately 90# plus table and servo. Any questions: Contact Ferg

Try this tool and you will never look back. I use it every day. In fact, I have three different tools, this is the best. Ferg

Here is one like I use. Marshalltown E216D 2-Inch Flat Gemstone Plastic Seam Roller-DuraSoft handle19600 by Marshalltown Ferg

Get yourself a piece of at least 1/4" thick glass. Mine is round and probably 18" in diameter. Edge needs to be ground so you don't get cut on the edges. Lay the leather piece you wish to skive upside down on the glass, holding it with left/right hand. Watch the blade, they need to be very sharp and they will cut a finger in the blink of an eye. If you have a round knife or skiving blade, allow the edge of the knife to ride on the surface of the glass. Other edge of blade should be held so it cuts an angled skive on the leather. It takes a little practice but you can get very good at it. I can skive by hand faster than I can with the powered skiver and I don't need to throw anything away. In the photo I have the leather on my piece of glass, the right edge of the knife is resting on the glass.

You aren't going to like the "fix" I am going to suggest. lol Power skivers that are considered "consumer grade", most of them, do not do well with Chrome tanned leather especially if it is of soft composition. I gave up wasting chrome tanned leather with mine some time ago. I have a small round knife I do all of my skiving with, except veg tanned. Some heavier weight Chrome tanned will work fair, it just wasn't worth the time and money wasted. The actual Fortuna skivers may handle this better, I am not spending that much money for a skiver to find out. Ferg

God Bless Ray! Thank you for your kind words and prayers. Ferg

The dies you sent me are not shaped as the image you show on the left above. Ferg

I believe I posted the first response to this trash. I don't care about skulls, don't use them and never have. I don't necessarily find them oppressive etc. I just don't look at them. It seems my response was deleted, I have gotten a lot of that over the time I have been on here. I prefer to say what I think and that is that. I have enjoyed Leabthercrafting if you will, for many years. I will continue to enjoy it, no matter what folks think is desirable or otherwise. I simply stated I didn't think it was appropriate. Ferg

Okay I will PM you

Ray what items do you have left? Ferg

I am offering $75, you ship via Priority Mail

The best source I found for this type of info was "Book Binding". Ferg

Great work and design. Love the clock. Ferg

I have a "29" and that certainly appears to be one. Thankfully, mine is fully functional and repainted real "purty". lol Ferg

I do not see the purpose of stitching around the filigree. Filigree is a way of rendering the leather, stitching would take away from that. Do you have any idea how well you would need to stitch all those little cutouts. Ferg

I don't quite get the heating of the leather. Are you wanting to have just an impression or an impression with color? You can heat a metal stamp carefully, in a small electric oven. You would need some transfer foil for color and even pressure. The stamp needs to be heated to something in the neighborhood of 350 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit to make a good transfer. If you simply wish to make an impression with the logo stamp, you can do that with an acrylic stamp and a simple Arbor Press. Ferg

I am too old to notice much modern art. Your work is great, don't stop now!!! Ferg

Primosand You know there are many folks on here that have bought either of these machines including the tables. I can't believe that yours is the only one out of the bunch that is soooooo bad. Maybe you didn't install it correctly or possibly it was simply a bad item for you. First and only one you have bought I assume. Contact the dealer with your concerns, works 95% of the time. Ferg

Are you holding the ends of both bobbin and needle thread for two or three stitches at the beginning? Check bobbin thread. With the bobbin removed, pull on the thread as it comes out from under that thin metal pressure plate. If you encounter some resistance it is good. Is the machine threaded properly? I ask, because everyone at some time let's their mind wander when threading the machine and it goes "Wonkie". Ferg