Ferg

I made my "Clicker Knife" handles from Brass. I gave "The Knipper" a cheap blade to copy. One straight and one curved. I strop mine before each use, have had for over a year and never sharpened. Be aware that he is very busy and he may also not be too happy with me for saying he made those. The small round knife I bought from him is the best one of about four I have. Ferg

I forgot to mention the other day...... Anyone wishing to pay cash for this machine can get same for $1395.00 Ferg

I have a SEIKO CW 8B WALKING FOOT, 10.5" CYLINDER ARM with reverse, set up for leather I wish to sell. Less than 30 hours of use. Includes the LED light, Drop down roller guide, Bobbin winder, standard foot, 12 Bobbins including one in machine. Uses series 135 needles and popular Singer feet. Complete with Pedestal Style Stand, speed reducer and Sew Pro 500 Servo, plus Thread stand. Will sew 3/8" leather with 69 to 138 thread all day long. I have sewn 1/2" chrome tanned leather but I don't recommend that. Servo allows you to sew very slow or about 800 stitches per minute. Reason for selling? I need a heavier duty machine. Asking $ 1595.00 Would like to sell to someone who can come to Southwestern Ohio to pick it up. I will package for shipment if preferred, buyer must pay the shipping which can be determined by preference for shipper. Ferg Please, if you are simply curious and not serious about possible deal do not e-mail me. I can take PayPal, Credit cards can be used in PayPal also.

If you can swing the extra money for the $60 1 ton you won't be sorry you did. Ferg

I made a number of the Tandy style purse years ago. It is a great minimal design without lining. Incorporating a lining will allow you to place pockets inside and on the back of the outside. In those days I laced almost everything. Now I would sew this on one of my machines. Ferg

My fix may be more complicated than you wish to pursue but it works. Since you have a pattern for adult obviously, measure a portion of the pattern that would pertain to the same on the 3 yr old. Divide the smaller dimension by the larger (your Tandy pattern), that will give you a percentage you need to work with. Take the Tandy pattern to Office Depot or some other place having the capability to print. Tell them to print the drawing/pattern the percentage you came up with above. Works for me. Ferg

Uwe, I have an Industrial CNC router, doesn't do metal. I have made many un-available items, some from the multi layered plywood, best I have used is "Apple Wood". From one Innovator to another, That is some mighty fine work. If I owned a 4500, I would have to have one of those. Ferg

MANUAL AVAILABLE AT: http://www.supsew.com/blog/wpfb-file/singer-51w30-w31-pdf/ Ferg

A PHOTO?

Many don't like the manner in which I give a critique but you asked. Your approach is "sloppy". Finger nails are probably too long. When you rest the fingers on the leather they make nasty marks. Your drawing may very well be alright, you simply are not following the tracing. YOUR TECHNIQUE IS TERRIBLE, WHICH YOU ALREADY KNOW. LOL Those things said: It appears you are trying to begin at the end instead of the beginning of Leather Crafting. You need to develop your skills with tried and true patterns and written as well as Video information available. Tandy has a full line of the old pattern and "How To" books by Al Stohlman as well as many others. If you don't have a Tandy close to you, they have a very good On-Line presence. Leather work is confounding and at the same time very satisfying. Learn the basics of carving and practice, practice, practice. I am not going to go into what I think you are doing wrong at this time. Think about what I have said and don't take it as being too mean and critical. Not intended. Ferg

I use photos of product, mostly old, to get an idea of how things are made. I then do some measuring of the subject, make a heavy paper prototype and go from there. Ferg

Excellent design, construction, and carving. Ferg

I Bought a used but very good "bottle jack" press last year that was already modified for clicking. I replaced the hydraulic jack with an air over Hydraulic 20 ton jack. I click with mostly steel rule dies I have made. The dimension between the steel plates on the press is very consistant so I made "stops" so the die doesn't bury itself into the cheater plastic board. I quite often want to click a number of pieces from same set of dies. For each cut I stack several pieces of leather so I can cut them all at once. I can click a half dozen pieces with no problems, taking about 30 seconds. BTW: It would be great to have a good sized clicker but my set up cost me less than $200 and suits me just fine. I also have a pancake compressor dedicated to the press. When I am not using the press I use this compressor to keep the multitude of tires on equipment I have, "Pumped Up". Ferg

Nice work and design Ferg

Al was 44 years old when he and Ann married. They were very busy and perhaps they didn't wish to have children or just possibly they simply could not. Ferg

Note my two words inside Parenthesis. Ferg

The Q-tips would be shot and lose cotton before you got around a wallet I'm afraid. (Just kidding) I realize many folks are trying to do leatherwork as cheaply as possible if for no other reason than the fact they are just beginning their fabulous journey with leather. When I was beginning, almost 65 years ago, I wanted to buy the best tools I could possibly afford. When learning to do edge painting, spend $20 to $25 for a tool that is made to work perfectly for this application and save yourself a million dollars worth of aggravation. Ferg

Jakob, That is a "Zig-Zag" stitch. I don't know of a reason for using it other than it looks neat and different. Your machine may not be "Zig-Zag" capable. Ferg

HORWEEN in Chicago Ferg

Photo of your work would help. Ferg

I could be mistaken but it seems when I ordered from these folks and seen how much the shipping was I questioned it. Was told their program doesn't figure the exact ship cost, they will reimburse any difference. Remember, I am not sure it was these folks. Worth it to question? Ferg

Additionally: Keep an old toothbrush handy, at the sink, if you are edge painting a fairly large piece, the paint begins to gel on the roller before you are finished. Secondly: A small container of water setting close by on your workspace will come in handy if the paint is beginning to get a little sticky on the applicator. Make sure you have some clean paper towel handy also, it will be needed to dry off the water left on the applicator before you put it back into your paint. Ferg

I am curious, have you used the tapered applicator from Tandy? Ferg

The tapered roller tool is the best I have tried of all the tools. I have no experience with the Edge Kote. I have Fenice and Giardini. My preference is Giardini. Lekoza has some colors of the Giardini and it is not expensive since it takes very little to do edges. The tapered tool allows application without the paint running onto the surface of the leather. As usual it takes some practice. Ferg