Ferg

The cloned machines are for the most part very good machines. I think their main problem is not taking the necessary time to fine tune and FINISH some of the pertinent parts. I have said for years that some things they make must have been cast in a basket of dried leaves. LOL Ferg

That screw isn't the one I was referencing. When you remove the bobbin you can see the screw that is designated by the number "4" above. If you have the narrow slotted needle plate installed on your machine you will not have this screw or the feed dog shown as number "6". To make any adjustments to this feed dog or the screw it is best to remove the Shuttle Race designated by number "2" in figure 12-2. When you turn the fly wheel as I stated previously, watch the thread just after the hook gets hold of it from the needle. It jumps through a couple places that you can observe. One of those is possibly where your problem is. I don't remember which needle plate you are using. I just watched your video a couple times. It looks as though the thread may be getting frayed as it goes through the little "eye" just above the needle. Could be a burr in that hole. Ferg

This is a stretch but...... In Fig 12-3, note the feed dog attaching screw (4). Check that with your finger if you have the shuttle removed. Is there a burr on it? The thread passes over that screw head when the stitch is pulled up. It is a flat head screw and is normally tightened very tight. If you wish to loosen it and retighten, make sure you have a screw driver that correctly fits the slot in the screw. You can ruin the screw if wrong driver used. I hope you held onto the shuttle mechanism when you removed the screws in the outer ring. They are spring loaded and will push the shuttle out of your hand some times. Ferg

Remove the cover, I imagine you have already done that, one which covers the bobbin. Make sure the power switch is off on the machine, turn the hand wheel toward you, not away from you, and watch the thread as it loops around the bobbin and case. You should be able to see almost exactly where the "fray" is coming from IF it is in fact happening around the bobbin and or case. Ferg

Your needle size is correct. Yes I gave you that info some time back. Works for me. Your foot pressure is about where the rod will pop out, spring is strong. My 3200 measures 1 1/16" from the surface of the arm to top edge of adjusting nut. Yours is doggone near 1 1/4" actually. Rough needle "eye", bad spool of thread, ----- Have you tried changing the thread? Even a different color will make a difference sometimes. Your "Hook" could have a rough spot or slight knick on it. I would check everything the thread is going through from the needle down. You could have a "Burr" inside the foot portion the thread goes through. Easiest way to check for a burr is to take the center foot off so you can see inside of the hole. The foot you have on the machine can be rotated slightly to make sure your needle isn't pressing the thread too tightly against the side of the hole. Ferg

You do know of course that a good hand skiving knife can be held in your hand at any angle and you don't have a "Razor Blade" to contend with. Ferg

Well, I am no expert on stitching/sewing but I have been doing it a long time. Sorry, there isn't anything wrong with the organ needles, most problems with thread fraying in my experience is WRONG SIZE NEEDLE! A side note: You have the presser foot pressure too tight. You are making a deep impression with the foot into your leather. I understand you are using a scrap to sew in the vid. Your adjustments are way off. Ferg

Photos???? Ferg

Your art work is great. Reminds me of the 40's. Ferg

It really doesn't matter to me what folks decide to use for edge painting. I do know from experience, the grooved roller coaters are the best for small shop use. If I was doing belts like some folks do, I might try some other method. I am not bragging, simply saying how simple this can be, I can do the edge on a round coaster in less than 60 seconds. Lightly sand edges keeping them as square as you can, one coat sealer, sand, one coat finish, sand, second coat of finish, DONE! Ferg

Yes I am. Where are you located? Just generally, don't give me an address. Ferg

I don't slick the edges, I do sand the edges. I apply a coat of clear sealer, let it dry overnight, sand with 600 grit, apply the first coat of finish, sand it until I see no shiny areas, then apply a second coat of finish. No hot tools or anything. I have three or four applicators. The cone shaped one is by far the easiest and best to use IMHO. Ferg

Put the blade of a screwdriver in the slot at the end, twist slightly until you feel resistance when placing the bobbin on the shaft. Ferg

Other than a blueprint shop catering to builders, you can find the French Curve in Michael's some times or Amazon. Lol Ferg

IMHO You done a nice job. With the design style you decided on, I don't think you have too much background. How you finish that background will be the determining factor. My hands are not steady enough to do much hand drawing anymore. When I do a new pattern etc. it is usually with the computer. I appreciate anyone who can draw. My wife and youngest daughter are excellent artists. Ferg

No, I haven't tried the Heat-n-Bond. You have to be very careful the heat in the oven isn't too hot and you don't leave it very long. It definitely will dry the leather and burn it some times. I am working on the pattern for a Tote. I want to make the lining just as the outside of the Tote only a tad smaller and only connect it around the top edge under the rolled edge. I have always attached the lining completely with glue. Ferg

Of course I cannot find the piece of white Deer Skin I transferred a laser image to. I cheat a little. I have a 16" x 20" pressure plus heated platen press. I can take a piece of good quality copy paper intended for laser printing, print the copy of whatever I wish, normally a Black Line drawing, lay it on the piece of leather. I set the temperature on my press and lay the copy over leather in the press. Lower the top for about 20 to 30 seconds. Then transfer the piece of leather to a small oven set at 300 degrees. Leave for 30 to 45 seconds. When I remove from the oven the image is permanent on the leather. I have transferred black line images to brass then framed them. BTW: Unless you have extra Laser Printers you can use for a replacement, don't try to print a piece of leather on the pass through. Ferg

I am in no way criticizing folks who make the "Funky" looking shoes, whatever floats your boat. If I ever decide to make a pair of good hand made shoes I want them to look like my well worn "Rockford" Loafers. I figure the best way to get to that point is, very carefully take an old comfortable pair I have apart. Take many photos with a lot of commentary and markings. Find a pair of wooden lasts that will come close to my feet, I can alter them, and dive in. I don't wish to buy machinery I don't have, I may decide this is a pipe dream that I don't wish to encounter. I have an idea this is going to be something I will pursue in the future. I think it would be a blast!!! Ferg

I wrote the previous version of this on the 17th pf April. On the 20th I discovered Godaddy had deleted my entire web site for the Leather. I had discovered the day before, they had charged me $450+ for Top Tier SSL for the two sites. When they deleted that coverage, they also deleted the entire site as I said. Told them I wanted a refund of that $450, they wouldn't give it to me, would give Company Credit towards other product from them. Decided to use the credit to extend some of the coverage for more years. Evidently ticked them off! Imagine that. I sent an e-mail to my previous "agent", didn't answer me. I waited 24 hours and made contact again. Still didn't have my site back. Actually, they wanted to charge me $150 to restore it. Won't say what I replied to that. No site. I wrote again saying that I would make them a deal. Get my activations back on line with the correct settings etc. and I would rewrite the site myself. No answer. I got on the Chat again. (I am essentially deaf so I cannot communicate on the phone even with my hearing aids) Asked for my previous agent, mysteriously he wasn't in the office. My account was all screwed up. Wrong settings etc on the wrong site. One and half hours later, I had the sites reactivated. Monday or Tuesday of this week I finally finished the leather site enough to get it back on line. Search engines I had connected to weren't active now because the site had been de-activated. That will start all over again. Some of the items I had written are gone from my brain, may never get them back. Lol Changed some things I hadn't liked before. Discovered a number of things you cannot change from their offerings. The Info Bar at the top of the page can only be changed to either a very small Logo or the name of the site. Everything else is controlled by what you do in other areas of the site which makes sense if you don't know enough to do that yourself. They actually asked me for a recommendation. Ferg "fergsleatheronline.com"

Well, I wish you were closer to Ohio. I use a wide belt sander in our woodshop. If you want to load them in a pickup or trailer and get them here. You and I could do them pretty quick. Cost would be $20 per hour. Ferg

Keep your finger nails cut very short. Ferg

Obviously I done this for the 1776 celebration. I was prepared several years ago to put it in the trash bin. Kept thinking about it and decided to keep it around although we don't have it displayed anymore. Thought folks might like to view it. Ferg

We moved our wood shop from 10,000 sq.ft. to 5,000 sq. ft. and finally downsized to about 1300 sq. ft. We built the shop onto our log home. It has three sides open to the weather plus a little. Ceilings are 12 feet because I wanted to be able to turn a 4 x 8 sheet of material end over end if need be. Fluorescent lighting, used kerosene space heater for several years. Finally hung an electric heater on the ceiling just out from the wall exposed to the North, with 8 x 10 overhead door and service door to outside. Can't remember what the BTU is on the heater but it required a 30 Amp Breaker. When below 40 degrees we turn the heater on the night before we are going to work in the shop. I have thermostat set at 55 degrees. Chilly when you first begin working. Large air compressor and Vacuum pump helps heat. When really cold, below 30 degrees, and windy the electric bill climbs pretty fast. At my age I can take the bill to be reasonably comfortable plus that heater stabilizes the moisture in stored material. If I had my leather shop out there, it would be way too cold. Shop has 8" logs on a portion of it with remainder having 2 x 6 fully insulated walls with six inch batts in the ceiling. Shop is drywalled, no windows and we don't air condition in summer. Not practical. We use fans and open the overhead and service door, also have a small spray booth with a 24" exhaust fan we turn on in summer. BTW: My leather shop is on second floor of home with heat and air with a carpeted floor, two large and two small windows. ALSO: Shop has never dropped below 40 degrees with no heat turned on. We have temps in the teens to twenties in the winter. Ferg

Thank you, I always done either lacing or hand stitching until my fingers and hands met Mr. "Arthritis". That will make you begin to save pennies for the first machine, then another, then another.... You get the idea. Lol Ferg