Ferg

I have never suggested this to anyone before but..... with leather that thin and if you do not need the functionality of the cylinder arm, you may get better results with a good "domestic" machine. I have a flat bed Consew I use for thin stock. It can be very frustrating some times. Ferg

Possibly your needle size. Does your project have different thicknesses of leather in the stitching path? Tension is critical when this is so. Thin leathers, as in single layer, are very difficult to keep the thread knot in the center. Even though smaller thread having less strength, is some times the only alternative. You should reset your tension to what I call "Default". Adjust the tension screw on the bobbin with no thread running through, until it is snug. Don't get carried away, you can mess this up if you make it tight. Now back the tension screw out 1/8th turn, rethread the bobbin. Machine tension should be set midway or as close as you can set it to the middle. Sew a couple inches in the thinnest leather you will have for given project. Knots may or may not be in the middle of the leather thickness. If not, repeat with the bobbin tension until the knot is in the center. Remember that very thin leather isn't sufficient to cover the knot unless you use very small thread with appropriate needle. You may need to adjust the bobbin tension two or three times before you get any improvement. Top tension may need slight adjustment after you have changed the bobbin tension several times. Ferg

The tool isn't made quite correctly. Many folks are having trouble setting these. I finally modified the tool. The portion of the tool that slips between the little brass wires inside receptacle side, is slightly too large. It deforms those little spring wires and messes up the stud.. Make sure you use the Cap Stud with the hole in the end for the portion that is the receiver. If the stud sticks through the leather more than about 1mm, it is too long. You will need to shorten it by filing some off or grinding it off. The other stud will usually "mash" inside the piece with the "bump" okay. You may have bought snap sets with a standard length of stud. For thin leather you need the short stud for the receiver. Ferg

The cloned machines are for the most part very good machines. I think their main problem is not taking the necessary time to fine tune and FINISH some of the pertinent parts. I have said for years that some things they make must have been cast in a basket of dried leaves. LOL Ferg

That screw isn't the one I was referencing. When you remove the bobbin you can see the screw that is designated by the number "4" above. If you have the narrow slotted needle plate installed on your machine you will not have this screw or the feed dog shown as number "6". To make any adjustments to this feed dog or the screw it is best to remove the Shuttle Race designated by number "2" in figure 12-2. When you turn the fly wheel as I stated previously, watch the thread just after the hook gets hold of it from the needle. It jumps through a couple places that you can observe. One of those is possibly where your problem is. I don't remember which needle plate you are using. I just watched your video a couple times. It looks as though the thread may be getting frayed as it goes through the little "eye" just above the needle. Could be a burr in that hole. Ferg

This is a stretch but...... In Fig 12-3, note the feed dog attaching screw (4). Check that with your finger if you have the shuttle removed. Is there a burr on it? The thread passes over that screw head when the stitch is pulled up. It is a flat head screw and is normally tightened very tight. If you wish to loosen it and retighten, make sure you have a screw driver that correctly fits the slot in the screw. You can ruin the screw if wrong driver used. I hope you held onto the shuttle mechanism when you removed the screws in the outer ring. They are spring loaded and will push the shuttle out of your hand some times. Ferg

Remove the cover, I imagine you have already done that, one which covers the bobbin. Make sure the power switch is off on the machine, turn the hand wheel toward you, not away from you, and watch the thread as it loops around the bobbin and case. You should be able to see almost exactly where the "fray" is coming from IF it is in fact happening around the bobbin and or case. Ferg

Your needle size is correct. Yes I gave you that info some time back. Works for me. Your foot pressure is about where the rod will pop out, spring is strong. My 3200 measures 1 1/16" from the surface of the arm to top edge of adjusting nut. Yours is doggone near 1 1/4" actually. Rough needle "eye", bad spool of thread, ----- Have you tried changing the thread? Even a different color will make a difference sometimes. Your "Hook" could have a rough spot or slight knick on it. I would check everything the thread is going through from the needle down. You could have a "Burr" inside the foot portion the thread goes through. Easiest way to check for a burr is to take the center foot off so you can see inside of the hole. The foot you have on the machine can be rotated slightly to make sure your needle isn't pressing the thread too tightly against the side of the hole. Ferg

You do know of course that a good hand skiving knife can be held in your hand at any angle and you don't have a "Razor Blade" to contend with. Ferg

Well, I am no expert on stitching/sewing but I have been doing it a long time. Sorry, there isn't anything wrong with the organ needles, most problems with thread fraying in my experience is WRONG SIZE NEEDLE! A side note: You have the presser foot pressure too tight. You are making a deep impression with the foot into your leather. I understand you are using a scrap to sew in the vid. Your adjustments are way off. Ferg

Photos???? Ferg

Your art work is great. Reminds me of the 40's. Ferg

It really doesn't matter to me what folks decide to use for edge painting. I do know from experience, the grooved roller coaters are the best for small shop use. If I was doing belts like some folks do, I might try some other method. I am not bragging, simply saying how simple this can be, I can do the edge on a round coaster in less than 60 seconds. Lightly sand edges keeping them as square as you can, one coat sealer, sand, one coat finish, sand, second coat of finish, DONE! Ferg

Yes I am. Where are you located? Just generally, don't give me an address. Ferg

I don't slick the edges, I do sand the edges. I apply a coat of clear sealer, let it dry overnight, sand with 600 grit, apply the first coat of finish, sand it until I see no shiny areas, then apply a second coat of finish. No hot tools or anything. I have three or four applicators. The cone shaped one is by far the easiest and best to use IMHO. Ferg

Put the blade of a screwdriver in the slot at the end, twist slightly until you feel resistance when placing the bobbin on the shaft. Ferg

Other than a blueprint shop catering to builders, you can find the French Curve in Michael's some times or Amazon. Lol Ferg

IMHO You done a nice job. With the design style you decided on, I don't think you have too much background. How you finish that background will be the determining factor. My hands are not steady enough to do much hand drawing anymore. When I do a new pattern etc. it is usually with the computer. I appreciate anyone who can draw. My wife and youngest daughter are excellent artists. Ferg

No, I haven't tried the Heat-n-Bond. You have to be very careful the heat in the oven isn't too hot and you don't leave it very long. It definitely will dry the leather and burn it some times. I am working on the pattern for a Tote. I want to make the lining just as the outside of the Tote only a tad smaller and only connect it around the top edge under the rolled edge. I have always attached the lining completely with glue. Ferg

Of course I cannot find the piece of white Deer Skin I transferred a laser image to. I cheat a little. I have a 16" x 20" pressure plus heated platen press. I can take a piece of good quality copy paper intended for laser printing, print the copy of whatever I wish, normally a Black Line drawing, lay it on the piece of leather. I set the temperature on my press and lay the copy over leather in the press. Lower the top for about 20 to 30 seconds. Then transfer the piece of leather to a small oven set at 300 degrees. Leave for 30 to 45 seconds. When I remove from the oven the image is permanent on the leather. I have transferred black line images to brass then framed them. BTW: Unless you have extra Laser Printers you can use for a replacement, don't try to print a piece of leather on the pass through. Ferg

I am in no way criticizing folks who make the "Funky" looking shoes, whatever floats your boat. If I ever decide to make a pair of good hand made shoes I want them to look like my well worn "Rockford" Loafers. I figure the best way to get to that point is, very carefully take an old comfortable pair I have apart. Take many photos with a lot of commentary and markings. Find a pair of wooden lasts that will come close to my feet, I can alter them, and dive in. I don't wish to buy machinery I don't have, I may decide this is a pipe dream that I don't wish to encounter. I have an idea this is going to be something I will pursue in the future. I think it would be a blast!!! Ferg

I wrote the previous version of this on the 17th pf April. On the 20th I discovered Godaddy had deleted my entire web site for the Leather. I had discovered the day before, they had charged me $450+ for Top Tier SSL for the two sites. When they deleted that coverage, they also deleted the entire site as I said. Told them I wanted a refund of that $450, they wouldn't give it to me, would give Company Credit towards other product from them. Decided to use the credit to extend some of the coverage for more years. Evidently ticked them off! Imagine that. I sent an e-mail to my previous "agent", didn't answer me. I waited 24 hours and made contact again. Still didn't have my site back. Actually, they wanted to charge me $150 to restore it. Won't say what I replied to that. No site. I wrote again saying that I would make them a deal. Get my activations back on line with the correct settings etc. and I would rewrite the site myself. No answer. I got on the Chat again. (I am essentially deaf so I cannot communicate on the phone even with my hearing aids) Asked for my previous agent, mysteriously he wasn't in the office. My account was all screwed up. Wrong settings etc on the wrong site. One and half hours later, I had the sites reactivated. Monday or Tuesday of this week I finally finished the leather site enough to get it back on line. Search engines I had connected to weren't active now because the site had been de-activated. That will start all over again. Some of the items I had written are gone from my brain, may never get them back. Lol Changed some things I hadn't liked before. Discovered a number of things you cannot change from their offerings. The Info Bar at the top of the page can only be changed to either a very small Logo or the name of the site. Everything else is controlled by what you do in other areas of the site which makes sense if you don't know enough to do that yourself. They actually asked me for a recommendation. Ferg "fergsleatheronline.com"

Well, I wish you were closer to Ohio. I use a wide belt sander in our woodshop. If you want to load them in a pickup or trailer and get them here. You and I could do them pretty quick. Cost would be $20 per hour. Ferg

Keep your finger nails cut very short. Ferg