Ferg

Well, I may as well jump in here before WIZ shuts this utterly ridiculous posting "Down". I agree you are arrogant, ignorant, less associated with reality than normal, and disgusting. Your so called movie certainly insures your ability to be all of those things. Your leather work is hopeless. You do not use glue. Edges must be tight and glue is one of the ways to obtain that. Your stitching is horrible in most instances although I have to say it is better in your last photos. With your approach to the rest of human kind I would be surprised if what you try to sell is of "better" quality. Most everyone has tried to help you. You do not accept that. Consequence is the bad mouthing you have received. You definitely deserve what you have gotten. I have been cutting leather off and on for more than sixty years. To this day I glean information from folks much more qualified than I, many who are on this forum. If you cannot bring yourself to engage in something resembling civility, get off this forum and aggravate those on ETSY. Ferg

That individual is an artist. Reminds me of Peter Maine's work Ferg

You firearm aficionados may enjoy perusing this man's site. I am not advertising for him, he is my Son-in-law though. https://keith-brown-lprw.squarespace.com Ferg

I have a different suggestion. Visit as many Estate Sales as you can find in Ohio. I bet you come up with a pair of these "dogs". Open up the seams and make a pattern. Ferg

plinkercases The machine has some design flaws that, one of these days I will get at it and fix. Otherwise it is a good machine Ed Shankman Not Florida. Ferg

Mike, I need to ask, how is MA KAT? Sure have missed you and your fine work in leather. I will be 85 this coming January. Most things work except for my confounded knees. Wife doesn't even bother to say anything any more when I complain. She knows I am not going to get them operated on. Name Puzzles are still being made and sold by the thousands, Maybe one or at most two more years. I am writing a book about my years in the NAVY. Now that is work!!! Take care, my Friend. Ferg

Looks good! I have to say, almost anything would be better than that green. LOL Ferg

I bought a binder with my Consew 206 RB-5 from who, I do not remember. It came with what I am sure is intended for use on a Cylinder Arm. I removed all but what you have left on your original. Mine curved to the left where the binding material enters, which made it impossible to use. Remodeled it and made it straight. After trying it out I can see where it needs to be curved to the right. I believe with a few "Plugs" made to the dimensions needed, the metal could be molded by hand and a hammer to any width you wish. The pieces of mine look to be silver soldered together. I tried it with Kangaroo as well as commercially made binding. Works great. Well maybe not Great but I could get by with it. Other than a couple pics I don't have time to make one. I have been writing a book about my Navy Days. It takes precedence right now since it is almost finished. Ferg

Very nice. From an old man. ol

It is a bottom feed clone of the Fortuna. Most likely a CowBoy. When I was looking for one I got into a slightly testy conversation with a dealer who sold it as another Brand Name. I told him it was a CowBoy with a different paint job. He wouldn't acknowledge that. Ferg

I have refurbished and sold a couple machines. I love "Having" them much to my wife's dismay. When I sold my Seiko she said, "You aren't going to get another are you?" I have so many toys!!!!! Ferg

My family knows about the cancer bit. A brother died at 45 years, sister at 70, my mom at 65, another brother has pieces of his face and back removed every six months. Wife has battled breast cancer, she is winning now. My wife and I are empty nesters. I find without a doubt, keeping positive and saying many prayers to our dear Lord and Savior has many positives. Hang in there, we are all pulling for you. Ferg

UWE, I don't remember how many of the first versions had reverse. I am sure this could be a "RB-1. It does have the "M" size bobbin. Wiz will certainly chime in here. Ferg

I love your leather work. Coming from an old man: You are what I would wish for in any of my off-spring no matter which generation. I know your mom and dad are super proud of you and we on this forum are also. Keep up the good work and stick to the "learnin-". One day you will look at it as the best thing you ever done. Ferg

Those kits make good patterns. Ferg

Lining again: If you wish to make the lining of Pig skin that is okay. Doeskin or similar would be easier. Buy a lining leather that is already a color. You need to make another purse just like the one you have already put together from the lining leather with one exception. You only want it to be big enough to come to the top of the upper edges of your purse body. Locate on your lining where you wish to have an inside pocket. Cut a pocket of the same material as your lining, stitching it in place. If you want to make a gusset into the lining no problem. Glue the edges of the lining and gusset together with "Gel Contact Cement". Let it set overnight at least. Turn the lining wrong side out and stitch as though you were going to make a French Seam. Do not stitch across the top edges. Press the two "flaps" on either side of the stitching, down and glue them so they lay flat on either side of the previous stitch line. Turn the liner right side out, hope you put the inside pocket on the correct side of the liner Lol. Cut strips of pig, calf skin, whatever you have that is real thin, 22mm plus the thickness of your bag where the gusset is attached to outside leather. Maybe three or four millimeters. You will wrap the edges of your bag, all the way around. Do not stitch the top edges yet. Stuff the lining into the bag so it fits inside nicely. You should have enough of the lining to allow you to trim it evenly with the outside leather. When you stitch that rolled edging over the lining that is what holds it into place. When the owner of the bag wish to clean her purse out real well she can pull that lining out enough to dump all the fragments of whatever was in that purse. I am not known for giving real understandable instructions so do not hesitate to ask for clarifications if need be. Ferg

Jane, Here goes. Loosen top tension on your machine until those knots are tied inside the thickness of your leather. You are trying to accomplish so many things all at once. Baby steps first, okay? Make the flap, plus the back, plus the front of your purse all one piece. Use 4oz - 5oz raw veg tanned. Don't try to stain it. Do your carving, nice job by the way, stain or paint with acrylics on your design after the leather has dried. When the Celtic Design colors are to your liking allow them to dry for no less that 24 hours. Now, you can use Olive Oil, since I have an idea you may be more likely to have that than Neats Foot Oil, to cover the remainder of this piece of leather. Apply with a fine textured sponge, the round ones about 5 or 6 cm in diameter, are available most places. Apply lightly and try to make it even amount if you are looking for a solid color or "mess" with the oil a little bit if you want varied depth of color. Apply two coats, allow to dry so it isn't greasy. Do that until you are satisfied with the depth of brown color. Remember, the leather will darken after a few months of use. Don't place the leather piece in the sun, it may cause a problem with your paint or stain on the graphic. If you want a pocket on the outside, extend the length of the above large piece to the top edge of purse. Cut a piece of leather for your pocket and stitch it onto the front just above your fastener taking it a little below the top edge of large piece. Best way to cover the raw edges of leather on a "classy" item is to do a rolled edge. You may not wish to do that this time. Before you stitch the pocket, sand the edges with 600 grit sandpaper, the finest you have. Don't bear down when sanding. If you have some natural shoe polish or paste wood furniture wax, put some on an old piece of Blue Jean material that has been folded over itself several times. Rub the edges until you can feel them getting warm to the touch. Don't get the wax on the face of the pocket leather unless you want to rub that into it also. This can take some time so just take a deep breath and do it until the edge feels smooth. Since you have now made a pocket that does not go all the way to the edge of the purse, you have eliminated one layer of leather. The pocket can be made of a little thinner leather if you wish. The gusset should be the same as your other "Bag" leather. LINING!!!!!! Mama says she has supper ready. I will finish after.

JANE, I am in the wood shop so will not give you any detailed ideas now. When I get to my computer upstairs...... Ferg

I have made several styles of Leather Cell Phone covers. I made my own dies, yours would be more complicated and needs to be done by someone who does them all the time and with the pertinent machinery. That said: I glue the back/inside and front pieces of leather together a little larger than the die. I have them cut precisely the same. Your main die would cut the perimeter. The die made with a blunted edge for the perimeter with the punch tubes mounted. The blunt edges on the perimeter would keep the die from moving. Just as you have said above. Ferg

Mt heat press is manual 16 x 20 I wouldn't do it to mine. Just not made for that kind of use. I am sure it would work for awhile anyway. Lol

I checked that out some time ago. I think I found a company in California, don't remember any name. Google is your friend on this one. Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Sewing may have something. I put this in Google: Spare Parts for Fortuna Skiving Machines. Several possibilities. Ferg

If I remember correctly a new Fortuna can cost from $4000 up, If the machine you are going to look at has been "Factory Used", it probably needs a new bell knife, maybe belts, and grinding wheel. Feeder may need to be changed but you maybe can clean it. The stone feeders seem to gather fine particles and "hide" them. Steel feeder can get fine particles in the grooves and do need cleaning. Hopefully the machine is powered up when you go to look at it. Take some leather scrap with you. Ferg

Your "Needle holes" are awfully large. I know the needles are much larger on the 3200 than my Consew Flat Bed. Still seems to me, those holes are huge. If the needle makes too large on the holes the thread cannot make a knot stay within the leather. I think you are on the right track with one more 1/8th of a turn on the bobbin tension. One thing that complicates tension settings, someone mentioned this before I believe, thread from different suppliers will effect your stitching as well as some colors. Black is notorious. Looks like you are using an "LL" needle. Try a straight line stitch needle such as a "P" or "S". This is 138 in 4/5 oz. Bridle with a 4/5 oz. soft Veg Tanned Cowhide on back. I selected this photo because of seemingly large holes with a soft leather as a back and contrasting color thread. If you look very close you can see an occasional knot that isn't quite pulled into the center, or is it? The leather I used has soft spots in it. When the machine goes down the stitch line there are/can be spots that are more thin than others. That can, but not always, cause some of your problems. This was stitched on my 3200. Ferg

I think if you want to sew 138 in 4/5 oz. you need a flat bed machine. Ferg