Beaverslayer

Next step is to make sure that the two pieces that you are going to join fit correctly. This is important as you don't want to apply the glue, then as your joining them together, finding out that they don't fit properly, and have to redo the whole thing. Then cut some 5/8" strips of pigskin. These are to be used to join the two pieces together and add some structural support to the seams.

Well here's the next step in the procedure for all that's taking notes. (There will be a test at the end) When marking your leather to cut, I use a Gel Pen. They are great for marking on garment leather, as the marks will just rub right off when your done with it. I use a Pentech Fireworks pen, usually Silver in color as is shows up real good on black leather. The hardest piece to layout and mark is the back piece. If you want, you can make a complete back template instead. If you only use a half template, then make sure you put marks on the centre line, so when you flip it over to mark the other side, you have something to line it up with. Lay your leather out nice and flat, being careful not to stretch it, you just want it to lay naturally. You can see that there are a few wrinkles showing in the picture, this will not be a problem, as they will not show in the final vest. If you were to try and get all the wrinkles out, you would have to stretch the leather and this would cause far worst problems. Here's a picture of the Gel Pen

Leathercat, that is a awesome bag, the lacing is something to be proud of, you did a GREAT job on it. Keep it up and before you know it. people are going to be asking you for help with their projects. Ken

Try Ohio Travel Bags, they do have a minimum purchase though. Ken

Clay, YOU RULE....yours works much better than what I came up with. Great job. Ken

Shirley, Freak and Spider otta love that one, I as well am going to be waiting to see it finished. Ken

Well I'll tell you what!!! I'm going out to find me some of those door knobs and make some of those.....$182.00 so far and 25 bidders, there seems to be a market for them. Ken (Beaverslayer CUSTOM Door Knod Tools)

You'll have to work on a vest as well, I can just imagine...LOL Ken

Okay here ya go, took a bit more that 5 minutes but I hope it helps you out. I just used the 1/2" and 3/8" spacing for a demo, but you can decide what your spacing should be. Good luck.

Anne, give me five minutes or so and I'll do a demo and take picture for you. Ken

Welcome to the forum Jeff, that is some awesome looking Eagle there, and the holster is real fine too. Ken

Welcome to the forum Dallas, good to have another Canadian here. I'd love to see some of your work, we always love pictures here. Ken

Way cool Spider, you are definately going to have to take a picture of you all decked out in your wrist bands and sitting on your bike with this brief case, I just gotta see the whole package. Ken

Well that turned out REAL nice Tina, is there a lining in it as well? Ken

Very nice looking picture you've got there. I'm impressed with your website as well, good to see you carrying on the tradition. Ken

Real nice looking ther Brent. I especially like the Egyptian theme, I love that kinda stuff. Ken

Spider, I love the work you're doing, keep it up. Ken

Fine looking work there Steve. I wanted one of those pebblers also, drove all the way across Calgary today to the Tandy to get one, just to find out they were closed....DUH. Ken

Welcome to the forum Gary, great looking work there, I love the braiding you do, thanks for sharing with us. Ken

Well thank you so far with the compliments, they are appreciated. Now it's on to the pattern making. First off you need to know the measurements of the person wearing the vest. You need chest/bust measurement, from the indent in the throst (below adems apple) to the top of the belt, and from the first vertabrea to the top of the belt on the back. As this vest is going to be for a 37" chest and the customer has requested that it also fir on the outside of a jacket, I have had to make a few allowances for this. As you see in the picture, ther front panel is 11 1/2" wide, there is a 1/2" extra on all edges (except the "V" on top) for folding over to make a finished edge and to accomodate the lacing. This will give me a 10 1/2" width on each front piece, or 21" in total across the front. The back piece is shown as only half, as I just flip it over when marking out the leather (saves poster board). You can see that it is 7 1/2" wide, not includeing the 1/2" fold, which is needed on the sides and bottom. So in total I will have a 15" back piece, add this to the 21" in front gives you a total of 36". Now when it is constructed, there will be a minimum 1" gap between the front and back on both sides where the side adjusting laces go. So add this 2" to the overall measurements, and you get 38" in total for the chest measurement. Using the adjusting laces on the side, this vest can be made 2" samller or up to 4" larger to accomodate the wearing over a jacket, or weight gain or loss. This is the pattern for the pockets and the side adjustors. The pocket pattern is also used for the inside pocket as well, but is cut from Pigskin Suede instead of the garment leather. These pictures give you a look at how the side adjustor is cut 3/4" smaller than the area that it will be finally attached to. The reason for this, is that when you fold the outer edge over, you don't want the fold to be all bunched up and cause you problems. Once the outer edge is folded over and the lacing done, this piece is held in by one half of the lacing that will be done, and there is a minimal ammount of structural integrity needed at these points. This picture shows you how the side adjustors will basically be assembled when we get to this point, I wanted to show you this, so I wouldn't forget later. So now that you have the basic pattern down, it's time to lay it out on a side of garment leather, or deerskin or whatever you want to make a vest out of. I tend to use the area around the legs for the pockets, as they have some very nice texture to them and this adds to the look of the vest. Try to be very careful that you are not placing your template over any defects or brand marks, this is very annoying once you cut all the leather and find a "Bar U" brand somewhere on your piece. More to come soon. Thanks for looking Ken

Lookin real good so far Roo, and I say Black dye should be outlawed as well. Ken

Great looking seat as usual Roger, and come on now, you know you LOVE TO LACE......wait till you see the vest I'm doing when it's finished...now that's lace...LOL Ken

Here's the shoulder piece after about 4 1/2 hours carving.....my thumb hurts. Should have her finished tomorrow night I hope. Then we'll move into the layout and sizing of the rest of the vest. Thanks for the compliments so far. Ken

Welcome Jim, great to have you here. That Borana...oops I mean cue cases you make are VERY nice. Ken

Moon, beautiful work on the shirt, very nice indeed...and I like the sheath as well. Ken