Goldshot Ron

I am going to cover two tasks. 1. Rivet removal tools needed: hammer, sharp center punch, awl, and drill will bit about the size of a number nine rivet. Flatten the burr end of the rivet, punch with center punch to dimple a hole in the burr end of the rivet, drill out the rivet until the burr comes out. Punch out the rest of the rivet with an awl. Be careful not to burn the leather; I use to use a Drimal tool, but it creates too much heat and burns the leather. Stirrup twist: the Blevins pin part can be placed in two different directions. If the pins are facing outward, you cannot twist the ends properly. The pins need to be facing inward, or when the stirrup end is folded, the pins will be toward the fender. In this position, the twist is 180 degrees, and the pins will now face outward (or toward the horse). To set the twists, the stirrup end needs to be wet and the saddle placed on a stand with the stirrups weighted to set the twist. Often, the twisted leather does not need to be wrapped after setting. But, I wrap them most of the time.

What would you expect for turn around times once an artist receives the materials? The items you posted, are these die cut or does the artist hand cut the leather (the browband)? Do you send along a desired pattern or drawing; or, do you expect the artist to design a pattern, submit it to you for approval? Oh yes, hardware: does that come as part of the construction package? Thanks, Ron

Here's how I would do your project: 5/8" is the standard width, but for stamping you may go 3/4 to and 1" wide. Cut your pieces, case the leather, and do your stamping. Edge and burnish the edges and dye (I'd use dark brown, Fiebings pro dye if possible). Treat with neetsfoot oil (both sides) and let dry. After oil has penetrated, rub it well with a cotton cloth or sheepskin (this enhances your work). Now, punch your holes and assemble. If you oil after punching the holes, the oil will darking the leather around the holes (no real problem, it will level out over time). There is no real value to use a protective coating such as resolene or tancote. Just wipe off the dirt and swet after riding.

I haven't read any comments about her tool use. (Or, maybe I missed it.) When replacing billets, I punch my holes in the leather first, before attaching them to the webbing, and gluing them doesn't help much in my opinion. But, what bothered me the most was her use of tools. Using a cobblers hammer on stitching irons, or hole punches, to set the holes irks the hell out of me. I know it's "anal" of me, but I even polish the face of my cobbler hammers so not to leave marks on my leather. I agree with Mulesaw, trying to glue a patch on to this saddle probably won't hold. Ron

I had to look twice to see if you actually installed a crank or pulley on the nose band. Like usual Tom, your work is flawless. Keep posting for us "want to be's". Thumbs up. Ron

I have made a few of this type of bridle, and your's looks very good. One comment, I think your throatlatch is on upside down. Very nice work.

Photos please...I am not familiar with this saddle that you mentioned, but may help with photos.

Sorry, I must have imagined it. I could not find the timing video either. But, Uwe Grosse has some on Youtube that are informative, and there is a Weaver video that offers good information on a 205. One problem I had when I first got my 205 was that I had to order two extra shims to fit behind the collar on the bobbin to accommodate 346 size thread. There was certainly a learning curve between the Adler and a clone 205. Good luck.

Weaver has a good video on Youtube for timing your 205.

Randy, what I do to avoid this problem is to use an overstitch wheel and mark about 4 or 5 stitch marks. Start at the third or fourth mark in reverse to the number one mark, then go forward from there. Make sure you hold both threads when starting. Ron

I am going to be a "devil's advocate" here. What make of saddle to you have? Is the tree a rawhide covered wood tree, or fibreglass covered? Is it a composite plastic tree? Is this saddle a: no horn, heavy swell, bronc saddle; or, an old saddle that you thought would work. As Chuck mentioned above, is it worth fixin'. And, Bruce said contact the your saddle maker; lift is too short to skimp on proper repairs.

I just saw this thread. The one thing that I think I see, is that the bobbin is threaded incorrectly in the shuttle. Sewing with the cover off will also affect how it sews. I have messed with my Landis 3 for almost 7 years, and I still do not have faith in it nor myself to tackle a real project.

Is this Sugar Creek Saddlery still in business? The piece that you are holding with the strap appears to be 3/4 inches wide; that isn't a stirrup leather. What does the strap hold? Could you take a photo of the saddle where the leathers attach? This would be interesting to look at.

I agree with Bland. Your latest photo tells me that the rigging is placed around the 3/4 position, and the rear strap on the rigging dee is attached around the back of the cantle. When going down a steep embarkment, your weight leaning back should be sufficient to keep the saddle in place. The saddle looks well made and well designed. To make the modification that you are asking about, would easily be $350 and more to reproduce something that would blend with the existing design.

When I am in a pinch for a square hole, I use a sharp wood chisel.