Goldshot Ron

Photos please...I am not familiar with this saddle that you mentioned, but may help with photos.

Sorry, I must have imagined it. I could not find the timing video either. But, Uwe Grosse has some on Youtube that are informative, and there is a Weaver video that offers good information on a 205. One problem I had when I first got my 205 was that I had to order two extra shims to fit behind the collar on the bobbin to accommodate 346 size thread. There was certainly a learning curve between the Adler and a clone 205. Good luck.

Weaver has a good video on Youtube for timing your 205.

Randy, what I do to avoid this problem is to use an overstitch wheel and mark about 4 or 5 stitch marks. Start at the third or fourth mark in reverse to the number one mark, then go forward from there. Make sure you hold both threads when starting. Ron

I am going to be a "devil's advocate" here. What make of saddle to you have? Is the tree a rawhide covered wood tree, or fibreglass covered? Is it a composite plastic tree? Is this saddle a: no horn, heavy swell, bronc saddle; or, an old saddle that you thought would work. As Chuck mentioned above, is it worth fixin'. And, Bruce said contact the your saddle maker; lift is too short to skimp on proper repairs.

I just saw this thread. The one thing that I think I see, is that the bobbin is threaded incorrectly in the shuttle. Sewing with the cover off will also affect how it sews. I have messed with my Landis 3 for almost 7 years, and I still do not have faith in it nor myself to tackle a real project.

Is this Sugar Creek Saddlery still in business? The piece that you are holding with the strap appears to be 3/4 inches wide; that isn't a stirrup leather. What does the strap hold? Could you take a photo of the saddle where the leathers attach? This would be interesting to look at.

I agree with Bland. Your latest photo tells me that the rigging is placed around the 3/4 position, and the rear strap on the rigging dee is attached around the back of the cantle. When going down a steep embarkment, your weight leaning back should be sufficient to keep the saddle in place. The saddle looks well made and well designed. To make the modification that you are asking about, would easily be $350 and more to reproduce something that would blend with the existing design.

When I am in a pinch for a square hole, I use a sharp wood chisel.

If you can get it, I would suggest using Fiebings acrylic antique dye for your first attempt. It is more foregiving than their Pro dye, and you can lighten it easily with a damp sponge by removing some of the color before it dries.

Hey Tom, thanks for the write-up. You did a very good job on your "Constructing Halters" paper. I'll have to put a copy in my notebook on halters and bridles. Ron

You need to adjust the top thread, which in this case tighten it some. The top thread is showing on the bottom between the stitches of the bobbin thread. But first, what size bobbin thread are you using? Example: 277 for top thread, the bobbin should be 207 (one size lighter than the top thread). In fact, if you were to use a lighter bobbin thread, you might not have to adjust the top thread. Your stitches do not look that bad, it just takes practice. Ron

You are welcome. I see that you and Randy are both from Oklahoma. He's a pretty good saddle maker, and a good source of information. Well, have fun keeping your granddaughters safe.

Kathy, Your pictures suggest that it had a factory finish on the saddle, and you washed some of it off. The seat jockeys do not appear to be dry, and the type of leather they used looks like burgandy latigo. Latigo does not shine naturally, but has a dull finish. What I use on latigos and strings is Rudy's Leather conditioner. I use it on saddle seats where you do not want oil wicking into your jeans. Springfield Leather carries this product, which is made in Vancouver, Washington. It is a non-oil product, but it does not shine up. It works to prevent mold and mildew on leather. So, you are correct, I agree that you need to oil the saddle. When I have a really dirty saddle, I will use a formula of water, a few drops of Ivory dish soap, and amonia (enough to keep the amonia smell) to cut the grim and gease. Your saddle would not need this treatment. Good luck, Ron

Kathy, It sounds like you removed the oil from the leather by cleaning it the way you discribed. I would recommend using Neetsfoot oil to condition the leather. Start in an obscure area first to see what it does. If you do not have Neetsfoot oil, a virgin olive oil will work also. I am not familiar enough with Lexol products to comment on them; I haven't used Lexol in over 40 years. My basic procedures is to brush off dirt and dust, wash with saddle soap, and when dry, oil with Neetsfoot oil. Once the oil has penetrated the leather and is dry to the touch, buff the saddle with a cotton cloth. Ron