Goldshot Ron

Randy, what I do to avoid this problem is to use an overstitch wheel and mark about 4 or 5 stitch marks. Start at the third or fourth mark in reverse to the number one mark, then go forward from there. Make sure you hold both threads when starting. Ron

I am going to be a "devil's advocate" here. What make of saddle to you have? Is the tree a rawhide covered wood tree, or fibreglass covered? Is it a composite plastic tree? Is this saddle a: no horn, heavy swell, bronc saddle; or, an old saddle that you thought would work. As Chuck mentioned above, is it worth fixin'. And, Bruce said contact the your saddle maker; lift is too short to skimp on proper repairs.

I just saw this thread. The one thing that I think I see, is that the bobbin is threaded incorrectly in the shuttle. Sewing with the cover off will also affect how it sews. I have messed with my Landis 3 for almost 7 years, and I still do not have faith in it nor myself to tackle a real project.

Is this Sugar Creek Saddlery still in business? The piece that you are holding with the strap appears to be 3/4 inches wide; that isn't a stirrup leather. What does the strap hold? Could you take a photo of the saddle where the leathers attach? This would be interesting to look at.

I agree with Bland. Your latest photo tells me that the rigging is placed around the 3/4 position, and the rear strap on the rigging dee is attached around the back of the cantle. When going down a steep embarkment, your weight leaning back should be sufficient to keep the saddle in place. The saddle looks well made and well designed. To make the modification that you are asking about, would easily be $350 and more to reproduce something that would blend with the existing design.

When I am in a pinch for a square hole, I use a sharp wood chisel.

If you can get it, I would suggest using Fiebings acrylic antique dye for your first attempt. It is more foregiving than their Pro dye, and you can lighten it easily with a damp sponge by removing some of the color before it dries.

Hey Tom, thanks for the write-up. You did a very good job on your "Constructing Halters" paper. I'll have to put a copy in my notebook on halters and bridles. Ron

You need to adjust the top thread, which in this case tighten it some. The top thread is showing on the bottom between the stitches of the bobbin thread. But first, what size bobbin thread are you using? Example: 277 for top thread, the bobbin should be 207 (one size lighter than the top thread). In fact, if you were to use a lighter bobbin thread, you might not have to adjust the top thread. Your stitches do not look that bad, it just takes practice. Ron

You are welcome. I see that you and Randy are both from Oklahoma. He's a pretty good saddle maker, and a good source of information. Well, have fun keeping your granddaughters safe.

Kathy, Your pictures suggest that it had a factory finish on the saddle, and you washed some of it off. The seat jockeys do not appear to be dry, and the type of leather they used looks like burgandy latigo. Latigo does not shine naturally, but has a dull finish. What I use on latigos and strings is Rudy's Leather conditioner. I use it on saddle seats where you do not want oil wicking into your jeans. Springfield Leather carries this product, which is made in Vancouver, Washington. It is a non-oil product, but it does not shine up. It works to prevent mold and mildew on leather. So, you are correct, I agree that you need to oil the saddle. When I have a really dirty saddle, I will use a formula of water, a few drops of Ivory dish soap, and amonia (enough to keep the amonia smell) to cut the grim and gease. Your saddle would not need this treatment. Good luck, Ron

Kathy, It sounds like you removed the oil from the leather by cleaning it the way you discribed. I would recommend using Neetsfoot oil to condition the leather. Start in an obscure area first to see what it does. If you do not have Neetsfoot oil, a virgin olive oil will work also. I am not familiar enough with Lexol products to comment on them; I haven't used Lexol in over 40 years. My basic procedures is to brush off dirt and dust, wash with saddle soap, and when dry, oil with Neetsfoot oil. Once the oil has penetrated the leather and is dry to the touch, buff the saddle with a cotton cloth. Ron

Several years ago, I saw a saddle made by your father. It was fully tooled with long tapadaros. When I searched for the maker, the search kept coming back to a Bill Conway in Pueblo, CO. It is good to know that he is the same person. I have worked on a couple of Ted's saddles; and, they were really made well and his tooling was outstanding. I never met the man, but I feel privileged to have repaired one of his saddles. Thank you for the information, Ron

Jonas, very nice work on the lead. Tom, I have looked at your seat project and it seems like there is no cheap-decent looking repair that one could do. But, could you cut the stitching along the bottom of the tear, insert a patch under the seat, stitch along the upper part of the tear, and finish by restitching the original seam? With that said, it doesn't seem like an inexpensive repair either. You still have to remove the bottom of the saddle to get to the top section, don't you? I'd like to know what you decided. Ron

Randy, I have only been planning this saddle for over a year. My new strategy is to build a saddle, use it, then sell for used. I sold the saddle I was using over a year ago, and it's time for a new saddle. What style trees does Swanke make? A 9 month wait is about the speed I move. The primary styles that I have used are: Wades and SF Bowman. The primary purpose for the saddle would be mountain pleasure riding with the capablity to tow a pack horse or two if needed. I'll post a photo when completed. Ron