barra

Knut is correct. The cantle is similar to a UP. The seat and flaps bear similarities to the US M1917 or a Phillips saddle however the rear fans are not condusive to any of them. More investigation needed. Barra

Hi Doolally. I hope you don't have any pencils up your nose or underpants on your head?. Back to seriousness. Can you provide a brand and model for the saddle in question???

R&D. The stirrup bar is 1 3/4 to the point where it curves up at the end. Depending on how the flap is attached, some of this measurement may be taken up by the thickness of the flap leather. 1 1/4 " leathers are a common size tho 1 1/2 would fit ok. Maybe get on to Dennis and find out where he obtains his.. Barra

The following quote is from Rod & Denise's side saddle topic. This was the longest English stirrup hanger we could get. For a true Western saddle the fender would need to be wider so something else would need to be used in place of the English stirrup hanger. Attached is a pic of a stirrup bar on an Australian stock saddle tree (Fouright tree). One would be fairly easy to make if you decided on attempting another. This way you don't need to source another English bar and can dispense with the one with the spring loaded catch. I hope the following link works. http://www.westernfolklife.org/weblogs/artists/watt/the_art_of_saddlemaking_with_jeremiah/ I believe Jeremiah used an inverted rigging dee. Also from that blog it should show a tree made by Dennis lane. He has a similar bar to the Fouright one. P.S Pic one is a stuff up and was added by mistake but it is the same tree as the bar pic. Barra

Awesome job guys. I'm curious how you have attached the stirrup bar and leaping head. Barra

http://cgi.ebay.com/...em=400055473395 I have been tinkering with the idea of making a hydraulic draw down out of a transmission stand. They pump up like a barber chair and also tilt fwd, back and to both sides. Barra

I'm with Steve on bench height. I'm 5"9" tall and my bench just happens to be 4 inches shorter than Steves. My rule of thumb with my benches is I want to be doing all the work standing upright with no stoop. When planning my bench I stood upright holding a commonly used tool like a creaser or edge tool with my forearm parallel to the ground and then measured from the tool to the ground. Our main sewing table at work was way too low causing backache when marking out all day. As it was too cost prohibitive to get a completely new bench made, we solved the issue by adding a false top to the old bench. This was done by laying a series of battens on top of the old bench surface (like a horizontal wall frame) and then adding a new surface. The space between the old top and the new means we can slide rolls of material in between the battens. I have done something similar to my bench. It is made from hammer lock shelves which I use as the frame/legs and also for the shelf space. I then added a false top to get my desired height. Barra.

Just in case people are wondering what is being discussed. http://www.cairpanelsystem.com/whatIsCAIR/index.htm Not to change the actual topic but there is also the "flair" system which differs from cair in that it can be adjusted. Barra

OK loading those pics didn't work. I'll try again in the morning. Barra

I think trying to make a filler out of a leather dust mix would be more hassle than it is worth. Heavy whipper snipper/weed whacker cord also makes a good filler (depending on the finished size of the item. Barra

http://www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk/ tools and saddlers supplies in UK http://www.ranch2arena.com/home.html This is Jeremiah's home page. On the top right of the screen you should see "cattle-log"and a drop down menu for tools etc. I live in Australia and have ordered items from him online and shipping has never been an issue. Where abouts are you at with general leatherwork. If just starting out you need to hone skills in hand stitching, cutting out leather, edging/burnishing, skiving, head knife use etc. If you are just starting out I would concentrate on making items that need these skills first. I will concur on Jeremiah's DVD series. Barra

Here's what I do. I save all my bits of skiving scraps and edging slivers in an old coffee can. When I have enough I put some into an old electric coffee grinder. When all ground up save the dust in another container for future use. When I want some I only mix up enough for use by adding a small amount onto a scrap of heavy cardboard. Make a well in the pile of dust and add PVA glue. I then mix it well together adding small amounts of PVA until I get the consistency I want (fairly thick). Barra

It's easy to make your own pattern. Work out how long you want it X how deep X how wide. Cut out a pattern from heavy card or something like vinyl flooring scrap so you have a rectangle the size of your length X your depth (one side) X width (base) X depth again (other side. Then get something round of an appropriate circumference to round off your corners (coffee cup or beans can etc). Then you can work out your gusset allowing for your sewing allowance. Barra.

Mooshi. Also make sure you hold your threads back (at least the top one) for the first few stitches. Birds nest is also referred to as a bunch of bar studs. Barra

I did as you suggested Johanna but still no luck. I went to the parachat support centre and got this but it may as well be written in Swahili. Solution: Error U825 is a user authentication error. It is usually attributable to an incorrect authentication URL that is set in the ParaChat service administration web page. In Invision Power Board (IPB), it may also be seen by a user who is not a member of an IPB message board User Group that has been granted permission to access the chat room. You may open a support ticket with our Support Team to provide an admin user name and password for your IPB message board so that they may access its Admin CP. We would be pleased to review your ParaChat implementation. Barra

Am I the only one experiencing this error message and If so how to I fix it so I can enter the chat room. Barra

Ryan. I can only quote what some of these machines would go for in Australia. Others may chime in for the American going rates. The 7-33 (commonly called a thumper) was/is primarily used for heavy webbing harness production like Aircraft, safety and parachute harnesses or for truck tarps etc. One in good knick is currently on Ebay Aust for Aus$3500 but that is with table and motor and I think that is a good price. I'll keep an eye on what it goes for. I'd have a 7-33 in a heart beat. I had 3 in our workshop that I was ordered to dispose of. I hid one behing some shelving hoping the boss would not find it but he did. GET RID of that machine. Noooooooooo Here the going rate for most patchers in working order is around $400 The American straight stitcher if it is the machine I am thinking of has a faily limited throat size so not sure of it's worth. Bruce Johnson is the splitter king so he may be able to offer assistance here. Barra

I'm speechless. I've got nothing else other than to add that these guys are well and truly living TCAA Mission statement. The Traditional Cowboy Arts Association is dedicated to preserving and promoting the skills of saddlemaking, bit and spur making, silversmithing and rawhide braiding and the role of these traditional crafts in the cowboy culture of the American West. Barra.

G'day all. Now for a formal introduction. Bear with me as it's 3am and the first bucket of coffee has not kicked in. Officially my name is Andrew but Barra is a play on my surname and most have called me this since I was about 10 yrs old. Upon leaving (bolting out of the starting gates) school I commenced a Saddler & Harness makers apprenticeship with in my unbiased opinion one of the best Saddlers God ever handed a roundknife. As he was basically retired before I started with him he was not fussed with being commercially viable. In other words time was not money. For this reason he did not own a sewing machine and every stitch was done by hand. When I left I fast realised that for me to be viable I had to learn how to use an industrial sewing machine. I then joined the Airforce who taught me how to use an array of machine types while we fabricate Aircraft fabric components. They then sent a few of us off to the motor trimmer dept at a large automotive college for more indepth training. Long story short I have been using Industrial sewing machines for in excess of 20 years. I spent 4 yrs teaching how to use sewing machines and as of Jan 2010 I will again be back teaching. I am not a sewing machine mechanic but 20 odd years in a fabricating workshop has taught me how to get a machine back on track after most hiccups. I also have access to the minds of some of the best sewing machine mechanics in the business. There are also others on LW.net with more knowledge on specific machines that I will ever have. My personal hobby in conjunction with Leatherwork is collecting and sometimes restoring Industrial sewing machines and to this end I am more than willing to help out or seek out answers to sewing machine related questions. Barra ............The wiggling Pin aint working on the wobbling shaft on my old sewing machine, what could be wrong..... Luke. Wiggling pins can sometimes become disorted when frustrated machinists have been extra vigorous attacking the wobbling shaft with an oversized knockometer. There comes a time in every machines life where a new lease on life can be achieved by connecting a heavy chain tightly to the arm and secure the other end of the chain to a strong point. This chain will protect you investment as you launch it over the side of the boat on a relaxing weekend fishing expedition. Barra.

I concur with Art. I have a 29K13 that I am kicking myself for pulling it apart for a total restoration. It was working fine when I got it and now it aint. If it is working I'd give it a general clean up and leave it at that. Barra

Bruce. J Dixon is Joseph and T Dixon is Thomas (Thomas being the elder). From what I can gather the company can trace it's lineage to around 1837 http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/thecuttingedge.html The Joseph Dixon Tool Company has a long history in the Walsall area. We are busy compiling a brief timeline of the company that will be available here soon. (cutting edge link)

http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2009/09/07/2678078.htm?section=justin I have spent the last few weeks training the various groups involved in organising the military involvement in the Funeral for our last MIA from Vietnam. The video link only shows a small snippet of the service. Lest we forget. Barra

Happy Birthday Allen. Enjoy the SOIREE Barra

I've visited SBTP and spent time chatting with Sandi. I can't register to endorse as I live in Australia (well I could tell a porky pie). Jump in guys and gals. Help out Wayne and the crew, register and endorse the story. Barra

Then we have a 3 and a 5 point double W. These have been added for illustration purposes. They are used primarily on safety harnesses (you may see these on your car seat belts)where you want strength. On most other items they would be over kill. Ok so I haven't mastered drawing on a computer but you should get the idea. Barra 3 point double W.doc 5 point double W.doc 3 point double W.doc 5 point double W.doc