Dirck

When I want a hard slick surface on heavy leather...after fabrication, I dye, waterproof and start rubbing waxes into it. It gets harder and slicker the more I buff it. As the surface wears, I can usually harden it again doing the same as a rehab, dye, waterproof and start rubbing waxes into it.

A stand...I have a cylinder machine on a stand. It is on wheels and takes up half the area of a table.

Attached are photos of a snuff case/holster. This was a learning idea as a new wet molding project, while stacking up some Xmas presents for friends. In the molding process progress, I'm looking for everyday things that can become the mold. This is a piece of 2.5 inch pvc cap (exactly the right size for snuff can) and a piece of 3 inch pvc pipe for the outer mold. so the mold cost all of 75cents and a few minutes to cut the pipe to the right height. Knifed out and sanded after machine sewing. The belt slot is for a 1.5 inch belt, dyed and sealed. I burnish my edges with a popsicle stick while wet with dye and later sealer. If I really go all out I'll add some shoe polish to the edges! That pvc size looks like it would mold a nice size coin purse. Next?

Beauty...please describe the pockets behind the card holders?

I've seen brass and copper chicago screws...a brass or copper chicago screw with the correct brass or copper washers would look perfect on one side.This would also allow for the swivel!

Dry....and then water proof entire piece as soon as paint is dry! Stabilizing the leather will keep the paint from cracking.

I buy things without castors and use three wheel castors when I need to move something. These are ~$5 each and can be used as a temporary or permanent setup. Usually they don't have a lock feature. You can also use a piece of 2"x4" with fixed wheels added for a stronger, more stable wheel.

Bobby...SneakyPete looks nice. My nest will be a vertical for a 9mm. I still wonder where the size point will be, until the average person asks, what's in that?

Jake....it's a double loop, 3/32nd natural cow lace. Wifey has taken to lacing for me and doing a bangup job.

I use a standard Singer treadle for my patch and have tried it on a GA5. Haven't gotten the pulley's right for the GA5. I normally hand crank. http://www.lowtechmagazine.com/2011/05/history-of-pedal-powered-machines.html#more I love low-tech.... I'm not all low-tech. I have a 111...with a ....motor.

LOVE the Chocolate pocket set...I know the others seem more ornate, but that set makes me tingle.

Ahh...one of my original questions. Let's say this is a prototype to a square, flapped holster. How big do you think it can get, before some one see's it as a holster, rather than a phone, pda or mini tablet case?

I have to correct something here...the pistol is never meant to be unloaded. I was attempting to show that a 2nd spare will fit under the muzzle. The pistol fits in the case loaded and magazine in place, spare magazine under the muzzle. I haven't been without a weapon at hand since 1978. And while my State allows Open Carry, I just can't do it off my own property! Business and the work atmosphere make me CC. 99% of the time it's a 9mm in my front pocket, or a .45 IWB, and or a .380 close at hand (ankle, pocket, cargo pocket, jacket pocket...). Also, back to this rig, while the trigger is covered it allows for a "unique" draw, that will start a whole new controversy. For a quick draw, it makes you put your finger inside the trigger guard. See attached photo. When the pistol is square in the case, the trigger is covered and prevented from moving. There is a commercial rig that does the same with a vertical position/draw. I was looking for a horizontal position on the belt. I see this pouch as the least compromise, somewhere between good holster and front pocket. I also see it no slower than any flapped holster, ala 1911 WWII. I've used commercial pouches and fanny packs and just can't. Now, I have to say WOW...I expected a forum with a holster making section, and holster makers to be Pro Gun, Pro Carry, but WOW! You guys have made me proud.And I love the comments. What's the best gun in a gun fight? The one you've got with ya!

Attached picks are of a wet molded holster for a pea shooter. But a pea shooter on my belt, instead of in my pocket. About 1" x 4" x 6"'s 3-4oz veg, wet molded over a nylon block. It has room for a .380 and a spare magazine. Belt tunnel set to ride the top even with belt top. It's small enough to not interfere with my front pocket. I've worn a similar phone case, slightly smaller, for about three months. And no one batted an eye when I switched to this. While I don't think it's "pretty" enough for a technical leather worker critique, I'm interested in what the holster guys think of the style. I see a one inch larger one holding a 9mm in my future. So, please?

Newest case is about 4" x 6" finished and all one piece of leather (except for the belt tunnel). Wet molded over a nylon block, lined with pig skin, sewn, braided edges, dyed and a brass post for a closure. The best part is the braiding, as my wife did it! It adds a lot of stiffness to the flap, protects the corners and I think it looks more substantial.

Blazin, I think there is a usefulness to the open corners on a work rig like that! It probably makes it easier to clean if the guy's puttin dirty tools in it. By the way, the folded over top on the big pouch is very nice.

I don't cut the corners after forming over a block. I re-wet while still on the block and bone the crap out of them to get them down tighter. I still end up with an external pooch, but getting better. Sometimes I leave the pooch and sew over it. For electronics, I think it pads the corner if dropped!

Any one else using one of these? I just snagged this from my wife last night and tried it on 2 layers of 3oz...wow, what a clean, straight and very burnished edge! I moved up to cut some heavier stuff and it worked just as well. It was easy to get a straight line and seems to leave a finished edge like nothing else I've used. I've seen bigger versions around sheet metal shops, industrial sewing settings and never dreamed they'd make such a great cut on leather. If any one is using one, how do the blades hold up and are you sharpening them yourself?

Newest Phone case...approximately 3oz horse butt, Wet Molded over a plastic blank I made. Second wet mold piece and I like the process. Stud for a closure. USMC black and Satin Sheen water proofing. Once finished the horse butt makes a very hard shell I'm having trouble recessing the stitching in such light weight leather. I assume I might have to go to a lighter/finer thread.

I've had one for about three years. It does everything I've asked, once I learned how to set it up, canvas, leather, vinyl, nylon strap...with the right needle and thread. I've also done about everything you can do to SLOW it down. 2 speed motor and smaller motor pulley.

Beautiful, functional,...great work!

Very nice! A little creativity and a great piece.

The photos attached show my first attempt at wet forming over a block. Learned and adapted from MagiKelly's tutorial! Made the form from a block of nylon plastic. I used plastic, expecting to use it more than once or twice. The block is cut 1/8" larger than the phone. Secured the form with a single screw to a piece of 2" x 6" x 12", used scraps of wood to hold/stretch the sides down in place, held with coated drywall screws. By using the scraps of wood, all the way down the side, I didn't have to do any boning, wet or dry. However, you have to be very careful setting the corners, but it's a one time thing. Used 3oz veg soaked in warm water for 20 seconds or so. Placed and set over the form, screwed down and left for about twelve hours. Left the edges of the form sharp on purpose and was surprised how sharp the leather creases turned out! The height of the block could be adjusted up or down by putting scraps under it. I glued the pieces together, sewed, cut and dyed for a little of an antique/used look. Now, I'd like to make more forms, maybe in a set of stepped sizes...say 2" x 5", 3" x 6", 4" x 7"..once you have the forms, the should be good for ever.

The boxed seams are beautiful! very nice....

I've had a GA5-1 (no R) for a couple of years and ran a lot of leather, canvas and nylon strap through it. It can mark the leather, but if you adjust the pressure for the thickness, when changing thickness, it will be minimal to none. Of course the lighter the pressure the more responsible you become for the feed. I had never thought about taking the sharp edges off the dogs, but I have tried masking take to the side of the stitching and it worked. Other than that the machine has been a horse.