Aven

Mike, you forgot the video link.

Cobbler's hammers come with a smooth or a checkered face. If you grab a checkered one because the price was right. Patience and a file/sander will fix the face. You can also glue leather on the face. If you get one off of Ebay or it's ilk, you can clean up the face the same way. Unless its been used to beat on metal tools, sand paper should be enough. I'm partial the French style. It's easier to get into places with the tail. But an English style works well too, you just need to learn your tool Wrising.com has mauls that have cosmetic defects that will save you some money. I've had mine for about 4 years now. I have no regrets about that purchase. My father was a machinist that did tool and die work. His thoughts on tools was that "professional" tools won't make you a professional, but good quality tools will make it easier to learn the craft. Cheap tools will work, but what you save in money you will spend in time fixing the tool or sharpening it every time you just look at it, and/or having to go slower with it to get the results you want. In a nutshell, buy the absolute best tool you need that you can afford. BUT make sure the tool is worth the money and you aren't paying for the hype around the name. Oh, and make what you can, like a stitching pony, horse or clam. Plans for a stitching horse, pages 98 - 104 https://ia802605.us.archive.org/32/items/farmwoodwork00roeh/farmwoodwork00roeh.pdf

Most natural dyes I have dealt with always seem to need something to set it, at least with fabrics. I've not tried a natural dye on leather, well I have used vinegaroon but that's it. Unfortunately all of my books are still in boxes from the move so I can't go through my library and look.

I have to wonder if the Tandy glue froze at some point. Several of the "white" glues become useless if they freeze. Which is why I never buy glue if I know there is a chance it will freeze, whether its from a shop or online. Either way it has to get transported. The other thing is that the leather you are showing looks a bit oily. In my experience, white glue isn't the choice for oily leather. For that I use Weldwood.

Did you check out the one on Craigslist? The one outside of Chicago

My oldest is my 31-15 built between 1913 and 1915.

Well then I guess it's a drive to Chicago. It's doable, it will only take a day round trip. Beats the WA to NM run I've been doing.

It's a bit of a drive, but its what you are looking for https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/hsh/d/chicago-industrial-sewing-machine/7242833787.html Oh, it also looks like these guys have one. https://industrialsewingmachineman.com/machines/all.asp?dir=sewmach&brand=Cobra Sixth one down from the top.

Check with Cowboy Bob. A servo will set you back about $135. I've got one on the way for my new to me Adler 205.

https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/tls/d/portland-industrial-sewing-machine/7249435017.html

I know I need new glasses and I couldn't get really close to it, so I'm not positive.

I prefer to use Renia - Aquilim 315 for most of my gluing needs. Renia has a contact cement that I haven't tried yet, but if it's as good of a product as the Aquilim 315, I'll happily toss the Barge. Unless you live close to someone that carries Renia, you really should wait until spring. Freezing temps during transportation could ruin the glue.

Dogfisher, I think that's what FredK was talking about. Using an arbor press to do tooling and punch with instead of using a maul.

I spent an hour looking for a manual or just more information. ISMACS didn't offer much, just that its an industrial machine it uses a 16X2 needle. I found one that initially appears to be in better shape than my 31-15 and I'm curious how the two machines compare. Does anyone have any information on the 31W?

Thanks for your insights. I'll chew on this for a while while I wait for the contractor to pour the foundation for the shop.

Thanks for the input guys. I appreciate it. Cattledude, you may have a point. I'm replacing the clutch with a servo and speed reducer. I should be sew with more control and confidence.

I'm finding a huge price point difference in edge guides. I'm willing to spend the money, if it's justified. I found one on Ebay for about $40. KG867 . Keystone has one for $95 N800-075105 guide Weaver want $270 for theirs Weavers roller guide From what I can see, Weavers is roller only. Keystone comes with a roller and a straight edge. Of the three, Keystone is the only one that includes a bracket, but I'm not 100% sure Weaver doesn't. The Ebay guide includes both a roller and a straight edge. The bracket is not included. Does anyone have any insight or experience with these guides?

I hope you like it, if not love it. I got mine about 4 years ago and I'm still very happy with it.

True. I remember that from motor stables when I worked for Uncle.

If you click on the link icon (fifth from the left) at the top of the reply window, you'll see what I'm talking about. If I could do a screen shot I'd put it in this reply, but I can't figure that one out. I know what you mean about the bells and whistles. I can't figure out how to get a youtube link to show up in a post. I can put a link to it, but I can't get it to show in my post as a video.

There are two parts to creating a link with the forum software. One part is the text that shows up in the thread, which can be anything, and the other is the url. If just the text portion is filled in the link doesn't go anywhere.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/133551313467

Dallas Fort Worth TX

I'll give the oi bath treatment a go first and then move on to the harder stuff if need be. It would be nice if it's just a wipe down and oil job. I like the idea of using a big tub to clean it in. Next time I go to town I'll swing by Lowe's and check them out. Thanks guys for sharing. I can't tell you how excited I am to get this one up and running.

You could order a 2 lb maul with a blemish from W Rising for about $30. http://wrising.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2