Aven

That makes sense. Stores have a hard time holding on to them here. You see carts dumped all the time. We went into a grocery store a while back and could not find a hand basket. We said something to the cashier as we were checking out. The manager happened to be near by and said that they were having more of an issue than usual. She said they usually lose about 50 a week. People just walk off with them. I was stunned.

What? Wait, you have to "rent" your shopping carts? Wow, now there's a scam. Do your pensioners get tokens?

From now on we will be doing PayPal or cash only. No checks, cashier's checks, money orders or the like.

Some people are just scum. I'm sorry she got taken. Thanks for listening. Stuck in an empty house is rough for a verbal processor. The cat couldn't care less about what I'm talking about.

Fred, a cashier's check is supposed to be like instant payment. The bank issues it and guarantees that it won't bounce. And I'm pretty sure that it won't cost anything near $2650 to crate it and move it. The moving company quoted us about $6,000 to move our household goods (three bedrooms and a shop) about the same distance. I'm sure it was a scam, I just can't figure out how they were going to get their money, unless the moving company was in on it. If I'm correct, the check is a fake, a good fake, but a fake none the less. If I cash it, since it's a cashier's check, it shows up immediately in my account, even though it hasn't cleared the issuing bank. That could take weeks before they decide it's a bad check. At which time they take the check amount back out of my account plus and fees for a bounced check. So I'm out the amount of the check and they have a sewing machine. This is a whole lot of trouble for something that isn't going to net them much. Something expensive I can see, like a car, but not a machine that's not worth more than maybe a few hundred dollars. The moving company has to be in on it. My wife had the buyer call me because she's at work. As soon as it rang I knew it was a scam. The check in a different name came from Chicago. The call came from the Twin Cities in Minnesota. They are about 650 miles apart. The fact the guy told me he had to talk for his wife Leah, who was deaf and dumb, cinched it for me. Told him I was tearing up the check, he didn't hesitate, he just hung up.

I have a situation that I would like to get the collective's take on, because I trust y'all. We put an older Singer 66 up on OfferUp for $125.00. We were contacted by someone who said they'd buy it, send us an cashier's check and have some one come get it. Okay, we're good with that. This drags on for a few days and rolls into she will pay us and have movers come get it. Um, okay, more hassle than the sewing machine is worth in my opinion, but what do I know about the worth of the machine really? Today a cashier's check via FedEx from Chicago, we live outside of Seattle. The check was for $2,855.00 and there were no instructions for the movers included in the envelope. Supposedly we are to cash the check and pay the movers with the remainder of $2650. We are supposed to get an extra $80 for our troubles. Oh, the name of the check isn't the name of the person my wife has been dealing with. I got to say I am uncomfortable with all this. I feel like this is a scam, but I'm not sure how it works. Anyone have an insight to this? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Spyros for taking the time to write that all out. I will definitely keep your suggestions in mind when we get around to building the shop. I think I will end up using shipping containers, well that's the plan at the moment. Not sure if it will be two side by side or two spaced apart with a space built in the middle. For those who work in the desert, do I need to be concerned about relative humidity? I'm moving from the Pacific North Wet to high desert where RH can get down into the single digits. I plan on insulating it of course. No one likes working in an oven. One of the reasons I'm going with a conex is it should be totally rodent proof.

Life has thrown us a curve ball. We are moving to NM here shortly. I will be setting up a new shop, but I was wondering if there is anything in particular that I need to keep in mind when I go to build it. How should I transport the sewing machines? Thanks in advance.

It looks like they turned the library into a bookshop. The books, craftaids and whatnot are all available for purchase.

I just measured the blade in my 5-in-1. It's 1 3/4" wide, 2 1/2" long and 1/8" thick. Lee Valley has a small bevel-up smooth plane replacement blade that is 1 3/4" wide and 1/8" thick. It will need to be trimmed of course. It'll save you about $15 in price. Don't know what shipping will run you. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/blades/101598-1-3-4-inch-blades-for-veritas-small-bevel-up-smooth-plane.

If you have a local shoe repair person, check with them. They might be able to either help you out or point you in the direction of some place a bit cheaper.

Weaver Leather has non-slip tape that works well. I have cork on the back of a couple of ruler and I don't like it as much.

Good on you Ferg! That's a lot of work. I spent a weekend making masks for my wife who has to wear them at work. I have to make some for me today. I have to go back into the office tomorrow. I can't imagine making 300 of them.

It depends. If it's two layers and they are uneven, I'll take it to the belt sander for a quick clean up. I think I've got a worn 180 belt on it at the moment. If its a clean cut edge and I don't need to do anything but a bit of clean up, I'll use 220 or 320 whatever I have on hand if I'm out of those two.

Those are awesome! Love it! Got the pattern.

Surface prep and application play a large roll in the success. I've found that applying a thin coat, allowing it to get tacky and then applying another thin coat is better than applying a thicker coat.

What thickness of veg tan are you using?

Thanks for posting this.

I have used Weldwood, Masters and Barge. They all worked well. Success is in the surface prep and the application. Its better to use two thin layers of contact cement than one thick.

Rocky Mountain Leather Supply has several clams to choose from.

You can also do a Google and Pinterest searchs for SCA & cowl. That should give you a good starting point.

Here's my two cents. Stitching is all about muscle memory and consistency. If you started with a clam and moved to a stitching horse, the you would want it to feel just like you were still using a clam. So the jaws would be at the same height and have the same cant as near as possible. You'd want to have to do as little relearning as possible. You just want to sit and stitch. If the stitching horse user had never used a clam, they wouldn't bother to go through the hassle of canting the jaws. Plans: Check out pages 98-104 https://ia802605.us.archive.org/32/items/farmwoodwork00roeh/farmwoodwork00roeh.pdf

If you are making moccasins, you'll need something with a soft hand like bison and relatively thick, around 8oz. If you are making something more structured, contact Nstarleather and see what he has available that will work for you. Understand that the stuff he offers is overage he gets when he buys lots for his business. He offers the overage, extra to us at a more than reasonable rate than we can get retail. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/83215-haas-tanneries-large-scrap/ You can also check with Maverick Leather or Hide House. Hide House is in Nappa.

No, but I sew. You might ask to see what they having for suit lining material. You can cut synthetics with with a hot knife to stop the edges from fraying.

It does. It also comes in different textures. I doubt JoAnns is going to have a broad selection of silk. The ones I've been in up here stock mostly cotton for quilting or fleece with a small selection of other materials. You might find a better source in/around LA or online.