Aven

It looks to me the maker started with a piece for the plug is probably about a half an inch or so wider than what we see. Then the plug piece is cut so that it creates the plug profile we see, but it isn't cut all the way through. The bit outside of the plug is skived down so that there is a relatively thin edge/lip left. Just make it so it is flexible enough to folded down nicely, and have enough thickness and width to take the stitches around the top. Don't forget you need a strip that will be the side seam. Cut the corners out so it will fold nicely. No need to punch holes for the plug part prior to sewing. Mark/punch the holes in the side leather first. Glue it up on a form. It should be easy to punch though with an awl or even your sewing needles.

I appreciate you taking the time to put the tutorial together. Thanks for sharing.

Please understand I don't know these sellers or the quality of their wares. I'm just using them as examples of various styles of edgers. When you are picking one out you need to look at the profile of the tip to make sure that you are getting an iron that will do what you want it to do. Small tip creaser Longer tip creaser KevinLeatherTools I like Kevin's tools. It can take a while for things to get through customs, especially now, but the tools themselves are good. Another smaller tip The alcohol lamp isn't made by anyone in particular that I know of. The two creasers are adjustable and consequently, more expensive. I hope this helps.

Tardis86, I will tonight. I haven't figured out how to copy and paste links on my phone. The link gets truncated.

Congrats on the new daughter-in-law. I wish them both a lifetime of happiness together. She is going to love her Christmas gift. I was looking at the flap thinking that your edge treating options were really limited. You could do some sort of edge coating. But honestly, your only other option would have been to turn it over on itself like you did for the top of the body. I like the rustic look.

Well done Battlemunky. That turned out a threat. I like your choice of leather.

Yup. Totally. If I haven't done any skiving in a while and I need to do some, I'll grab some scrap of what I'm working with or the closest thing I have in the scrap box and take time to sharpen my knife and practice skiving for 10 ~ 20 mins., whatever it takes for me to feel comfortable.

It doesn't matter what skiver you use, there is a bit of a learning curve. The knives I was talking about are the first ones you linked. I have both sizes, but find myself grabbing the smaller one more often than not. That's not to say that the larger one should be avoided, not that at all. I don't have large hands and I have arthritis in my hands, so for me the smaller one is just more comfortable to hold. Check out Lisa Sorrell's Youtube video on skiving. It really is worth watching.

Tardis86, you can go old school with your creaser. You can get a creasing iron that you heat up in an alcohol flame. It'll do the same job as an electric one will, but you will have to play around with it a bit to figure out how hot to get it so it works for you. A hot plate might work for a heat source instead of a flame. The creasing iron will cost you $35 ~ $55 on Ebay. An alcohol lamp (spirit lamp) with be about $10 on Ebay. A good one with a stand to lay your tool on will be about $35. Rocky Mountain Leather Supply carries them and they are in stock at the moment. An electric hot plate, new, will run about $15, depending on what you want.

She does and I love mine. As everyone is saying, sharpness is the key and that includes sharpening the French beveler. I made a strop that will just fit inside to strop the top side and use my other one for the bottom of the beveler.

Sage advice. Thank you for taking the time to write this out. I've bookmarked the post. I don't want to lose it.

I have two books by George Koeff, Shoe & Boot Designing Manual and Last Designing & Making Manual. The last making manual has a DVD to go with the book. The shoe & boot is similar to the Pattern Cutting Step by Step, I think the Shoe & Boot Designing Manual is easier for me to follow. I got both of the Koeff books from Walrus Shoes.

Ferg, I don't know what you have as far as books go, but I was able to get a couple from Walrus Shoe Co. Larry was most accommodating.

Ferg, that is a great start. I'm looking forward to watching your progress. Mikesc you asked " .... Why have you decided to use a slightly pointed shape ( one in which the longest part is close to the centre line ) rather than one in which the longest part is closer to the inside edge ? Feet are longer at the big toe, rather than at the second or third toe." Having a second toe longer than the big toe or a short big toe is called Morton's Toe. It's not that uncommon.

Nice job on the shoes HaloJones. Those turned out a treat. The Chicago School of Shoemaking is another option if you are looking to travel. Jason Horvatter of Laughing Crowe has two dvd's on shoe making. If you like the style of HaloJone's shoes, check out his Making Your Own Boots dvd. Jason also does classes. I was on his website the other day and it looks like Jason has branched out into lasted shoes as well as his other styles.

I could be totally wrong, but I think the cant to the jaws on a stitching horse came about to mimic the position of a stitching clam. It's held between the thighs at a bit of an angle. Canting the jaws would present the work in the same orientation as the stitching clam and stitching is all about the muscle memory. There are a few threads here that discuss stitching clams. Someone made one from scratch at is just beautiful.

That turned out sweet. Looks solid without being chunky. I like that detail that Gary asked about.

Grail, I couldn't find any information on the roller. What's it for?

I just checked the shoes I made at Laughing Crowe. The uppers were sewn on a machine at 9 stitches per inch. I plan on making another pair by hand soon. I'll probably be going with 8 spi, mostly because I have a set but also because I think 12 is just too tight. The leather I'll be using 8 oz bullhide and it is nicely textured. If I were using something that was smooth, I might got with a higher spi, I don't know. I would have to see how it looks.

You can't see them unless you are a member of the forum.

When you cut the second pair from the side, did you cut along the backbone or perpendicular to it? The hide is less stretchy along the backbone and more stretchy going around the ribs.

Rocky, do you guys have youth organizations like boyscouts/girlscouts or a youth center that does arts and crafts? The first thing that came to mind when I looked at them was that is a metric tonne of bookmarks.

Nice work. They remind me of Jann French's shoes. Very soft and comfortable.

I took his internal stitch down class last April. I learned a lot from Jason during class, but I'm glad I got the DVD. I couldn't work on the shoes and take notes at the same time. He has a method that is easy to learn, at least it was for me. I loved the way the shoes turned out even if I haven't made another pair yet. But I will. I agree, it is well worth the time and money investment. Just need to get the bathroom remodel done so I can focus on the shoes. I'm enjoying your blog, the writing and the photos. Its nice work. You've got a gift. Have you tried Renia Aliquim waterbased glue? I've heard lots of good things about it.

Nice job! I'm looking forward to reading, and probably re-reading, your blog. I like your approach. You and Jason Hovatter of Laughing Crowe are kindred spirits. He teaches unlasted shoe construction for the same reasons you started making shoes, to have something that fits and allows the foot to do what it should be doing without being deformed from the shoe. Thanks for sharing!