whinewine

Try: http://springfieldleather.com, they have print bundles on cow , in addition to all kinds of different assortments (real exotics, italian leather bundles, shoe scrap bundles, etc). Reasonable prices. Better to call them at their toll free # (800-668-8518) than to go through their website listing (I think it's cumbersome, but then again, I have their catalogue...). Tell the girls what you're looking for & they'll hook you up.

Pergo laminate. It's great stuff. (I believe it's got a 25 or 30 year guarantee). What was there before was stick-on tile (which only stick if you don't want them to). They came with the house & were in really bad shape, so I ripped them up & put the Pergo down. It's a floating floor, easy to install** & the padding comes attached to each piece so you don't need to buy extra padding like most floating systems. ** Easy to install is a relative term, as with ALL floating floor systems, no matter WHAT the brand-- you watch the installation downloads & it looks like the pieces just 'snap!' into place- well, not quite- ya gotta whack these pieces so they lock. But other than this minor bit of 'hype', installation is very easy. It took me just a few days, & the longest part was trying to pull up the broken tiles that didn't want to come up, even with the heat gun.

I do think you're right, Oldtimer. I was also taught that only water expands when frozen. The problem is that many of the oils we use on leather are NOT just oils, but consist of varying mixtures & compounds in suspensions /emulsions, among them, water, which will certainly freeze & expand. (Even beer & wine will freeze & expand & break the bottle, if the temp is low enough, because they are mixtures of alcohol & water. So while the alcohol will freeze & not expand, the water will.) If there is anyone out there who is also a trained scientist, perhaps they would definitively answer this particular question for us.

Hidecrafters does also, if you prefer to deal with them.

If anyone does photographic darkroom development of prints (huh? what's that?...doncha just print'em on the computer?) they would have kodak photoflo on hand- it's a surfactant to cut the tension of the water when rinsing prints- just like dishwashing detergent or baby shampoo, except without the suds. I've used it also & it works fine. russ

Just an aside: sharkskin has been used as sandpaper by the ancient Japanese. I just finished a sharkskin handle for a dagger blade, dyed in mahogany spirit dye, laced on the edges with kangaroo lace & sealed with neatlac. It has a tremendous grip because of the roughness. At some point I plan on doing a matching sheath for it.

Marlin: Siegels of California has it. It can range from about $3.35 to $2.35 depending upon supply & whether or not you sign up for their Friday specials (which is really a good deal). I use a fair amount of it, & it tools quite nicely, but it IS thin (about 2oz), so be careful & don't hit your tools too hard (especially sharp edged tools like bevelers)- you can punch right through.

I do too! Leathernut: Big questions... 1) Did you use the original pieces as patterns? [The reason I'm asking is when I took the vinyl off, the pieces were all stretched & bowed out of shape & I had to use a heat gun to shrink the bowed top piece so it would lay flat enough to make a pattern {I haven't even started on the side part yet...}] 2) How did you make the pattern for the side/lower piece? Did you cut it all out of 1 piece? [Again, why I'm asking is that the side is made of numerous pieces sewn together, & it is VERY stretched & bowed- I want to construct the side piece as a single unit... should I use the heat gun on the vinyl, or what?] 3) Do I need to make extra allowances for anything I've shrunk to lie flat for the pattern? 4) What weight leather did you use? Any & all help is truly appreciated. This is my first seat & I hope I'm not in over my head!

What strap cutter do you have? Some are total junk, some are quite decent. Some are fine for one job & not for another. And what are you cutting, & what weights? For example, thin garment & thin, soft temper veg-tan is better cut using a straight edge & rotary (olfa) knife... It really helps to know what you're trying to cut before giving an answer.

Because it is vegetable tanned, it can be tooled (as in roughout). But because it is a split, it has been my understanding (& I certainly may be wrong- if I am, please correct me) that it is weaker than the part that has the grain still on. Splits are generally split into numerous thin pieces rather than kept in a single (let's say, 8-9 oz) thickness. So out of 1 piece of split, you can get several thin splits. One of tandy's vest kits is comprised of splits, & there are other beginner-types of their kits that are made of splits. While they can be tooled, the results are mostly less than satisfactory & split items are primarily decorated with paints or stencils or pyrography.

Thank you all! This truly helps me out. russ

I don't know whether to post this here or in the Braiding area... Does anyone have a tutorial or instructions on how to do Japanese Cord Wrapping? I don't have a picture, but look at any samuri sword handle & you'll see what it is- a series of overlapping wraps over a stingray undercovering. I'd like to consider trying it on one of the dagger blades I have. It looks easier than standard braiding, but I just need instructions. Thanks in advance. russ

http://www.paintingcow.com

Oh, yeah! I DO remember the good old days of Omega. Good stuff, it was! I had stockpiled at least 12 quarts of yellow (Oh yes, you could buy yellow in quarts at that time), medium brown, dark brown, & a couple of quarts of black... & when we moved to the new house I left it all for the trash haulers 'cause I wasn't doing leatherwork at that time :deadhorse: :skull3: In the words of the immortal Bugs Bunny... "What a (freakin') maroon!!!")

If you want the rotary punch, I'd suggest the CS Osborne Model # 155. Solid steel, no plastic, replaceable tubes, replaceable anvil, reasonable price. I've had mine since the '70s. I can't vouch for the modern ones' quality, but mine has held up. There are also compound leverage rotary punches floating around on ebay. Tubes don't appear to be replaceable. Tandy used to sell Osbornes, but now have their own clones. I don't know about their quality. (I do know that their 'pro super shears' is a knockoff of the Ginghers they used to sell, and they totally do NOT compare AT ALL to the Ginghers, so I'd be a little bit wary of some of their clones. Caveat emptor.)

Twin Oaks: I know what you mean, & I don't wish to be a naysayer, but... What I have often found is a snobbish, or an uninformed attitude of... 'Oh- that's not really art- it's just "leather"' or, 'that's not really art- it's just "photography"' (or "welding" or "quilling" or "...whatever_____{fill in the blanks}______..."). Most people won't pay for quality because: 1) they don't believe it's art 2) they aren't cognizant of the amount of time we put into our work 3) most of the Art Community doesn't recognize leather as a viable artistic medium 4) people truly believe they can get exactly the same thing at walmart for $9.99 But, by God, they'll spend $29.95 for a velvet elvis ('well, it's a real paintin', ain't it?), stick it on their walls & proclaim their ignorance to the world. Best of luck. Regis also makes good points & good sense.

It's where I got my first in-depth experience. My manager, Barry Yeingst, was incredibly knowledgeable & helped me tremendously. In fact, most managers I've met are so willing to share their know-how. I can still learn things from them. The important thing is to ASK questions. Knowledge is Power! And they can't read your mind (if you ask for suede lace, for instance, they won't know you plan to use it to lace up saddlebags unless you tell them. They can then tell you that it's way too flimsy for that type of project) If the (now) local(???) store wasn't almost 2 hrs away, I wouldn't mind working there again [although one of their employees lives about 1/2 hour closer than I do & drives that distance every day along the ridgetops of the Allegheny Plateau in all kinds of weather- God bless her- but she's not retired & I am].

No. I have used it for leather items, from belts to wallets- just about everything- since the '70s. It will only crack & peel if used over certain things- one of them, I believe, is antique (the old fiebings turpentine-based & the newer wax-based antiques- I don't know about the new eco-flo gel antiques, I haven't used them yet)). There are a few others, but I can't remember right now. It is very, very flexible. If applied too thick, or too many coats, yes, then it could crack, just like other finishes. Many people don't like it because of its glossy finish, and it certainly has a lacquer smell, but to answer your concern, it does flex & won't crack if used properly.

xacto's blade number is #292. If acmoore has a display of exacto products, like the different knives, knife sets, blades, saw blades & so on, it should be in it. Ask the manager (the employees don't particularly care, for the most part, & would rather say 'we ain't got none a them' rather than actually try to be helpful). The store in Altoona, PA does carry them, so you can tell the manager that & see if he can carry them (if Altoona can carry them, surely there are other stores that do, too). And yes, siegel's price is a very good one (but they do require a $75 minimum order)

Additionally, suede will hold & pick up & hold more dirt & grit than smooth lining.

perhaps ac moore or michaels or hobby lobby or any good frame shop

Marlin: very, very nice case. russ

Anyone who has done any business or run any business knows how stupid it would be, business-wise, to redo a website each & every time an item sold out. This is why God gave mouths to us & (most times) brains & ears- so we can communicate & listen to what others say & then form thought (in a mostly rational manner). As Art previously stated: USE THE PHONE! Ask questions. Communicate= hear what the other person has to say, not hear just what you want to hear. It is wrong to malign a good company just because you couldn't get your own way, IMHO, & then turn around & ask for a 'club discount'.... That is just so....gimmie gimmie gimmie me me me waa waa waa.

You need to contact them. I used to work for tandy back in the '70s. We used to get some weird stuff then, but apparently not like now. If it doesn't satisfy you, call them (as you would call anyone else with whom you are NOT satisfied! ). I'm sure they'll try to make it right. But if you don't say anything, they (1) won't know it's wrong, they (2) won't make it right, & they (3) will continue to ship out their crap to you, 'cause they (4) know you won't conplain. I myself have sent numerous items back when not satisfied- this is why, if I have the opportunity, to go & inspect the leather personally before I buy. Those, to whom I deal with over the phone, know pretty much what I like & want & pretty much give it to me now.

Oh, so neat! I love it russ