KAYAK45

Great news Don! I'm sure you'll enjoy the machine over hand stitches. When I first got mine (CB4500)` a couple years ago, I got some advice here on the forum that I now pass on. Leave the thread out of you needle and don't put in a bobbin. Use some poster board or light weight cardboard. I liked the USPS boxes cut-up. Thought it appropriate to use free gov'T supplies. Make straight lines with a ruler and sew them, needle only. Next sew next to them, parallel. Next draw some curves and stitch those, again only using the needle. When you are comfortable that the needle goes were you want it, add thread and try leather scrap. For several months I did this "warm-up" every day before tackling a real project, and it saved lots of leather. Good luck and tight stitches. Kevin

Area code 940 is north central tx. including Denton, Wichita Falls.

Do not get into buying tools! It will become an addiction. Buy what you need for the job you are working on, and buy the best you can afford to geterdone. A large collection starts with the tools you really need, and use, over a lifetime. They'll add up on their own. The observation of a tool addict. I need a good twelve step program! Kevin

Thanks Art. That is still 650 miles. NO QUESTION about the quality of instruction! AND I would pass through Springfield MO and have a good stop, to talk with another KEVIN. Still lookin for closer.

Hi! I'm looking for a boot making instructor, semi close to Illinois. Yes I know about Montana and Texas! Been to Montana for training, didn't work out, nice trip though. Would like to stay a little closer to home than ST JO. TX. or Wichita Ks., if possible. 500 miles not a problem. Anybody got an idea? Doesn't even have to be a "famous boot maker" just a good teacher. Thanks, Kevin

The very term "clicker" goes back centuries to the sound made in cutting out leather for boots. A very good explanation is found in "Dictionary of leather-working tools, c.1700-1959 by R.A.Salaman" Simply, any knife used to cut out PATTERNS in leather. A long flat blade was used for longer cuts. As it was sharpened, a hook developed above the point and would do intricate cuts. The newer, flat blades where used for longer cuts. Many, now use SURGICAL BLADES, which you may have seen. They would appear to be a pencil handle with a straight blade, that can be stropped for longevity, and are relatively inexpensive. By raising the handle, only the thin point is used for intricate cuts in thin leather, by lowering the handle the long length of the blade leads to straight cuts or gentle curves Hope that helps. Kevin

Hey all! One of the things MAYBE missing, I think, in the calculation of "time to do a belt" is "time for overhead". So you can make a belt (one) in xxx minutes. Who sharpens the knives? Who sets up and maintains the machines? Who orders the supplies? Who sends out bills and keeps track of cash? Who files the tax returns? All of these TASKS must be performed by someone! These are hours needed to produce, and yet not calculated? OH, and who cleans the shop, at night, after a run? Compute the TOTAL TIME TO RUN A SHOP, the divide it to the item count? IN most business envirements it takes 3,000 hours a year to achieve 1,500 "billable" IE "making" hours. Who is paying for that other 1,500 hours? I have no answers here, just a thought on COST! AND, I even forgot and have to edit. Who pays for the cost of tools, machines and the all needed light bills, ETC.? Kevin

Hey! Don't blame me I just read it. I never posted to it. Kevin

I had an old denim apron, from woodworking days, split it down the front to the "right" place, for set down work. Didn't want to stay where I wanted it so I added a slightly tapered piece of leather on each inside from an old coat I bought at the goodwill store. Now the legs stay were they are supposed to be. Probably has saved my $400+ in ruined blue jeans. Wear it all the time except Hot, Hot, days. Then I just go boating anyway. LOL. Hence my moniker Kayak, and my best gun 1911. Kevin

I think 6 pages might of been enough for one post?? How long should a group hug be?? Kevin

Hi XeonZinc (post a name, please, that handle is tough LOL) 1). Probably no other reason, yet My limited experience says it hard to burnish and finish a sharp edge and keep it that way with wear. Belt loops have a way of rounding anyway, might as well do it right. 2). Lots of your answer is in TOOLING STAMPING AND CARVING, under Dyes, Antiques, Etc. BUT...The best is under HOW DO I DO THAT. Particularly "Finishing Edges", and "How I make a Belt". 3). Search under BELT KEEPERS. Some good stuff, I'm not going to repeat here. 4. Yes! And again postings on this subject. Search in Finishing and Leather. Good Luck and Welcome, Welcome. You'r going to like it here. Kevin

Sorry Terry, I don't have that site marked. Just search here for the 111w and it will come a couple of times. Good luck. PS: It's a general maintenance manual that has a section on the machines.

Careful about that eight feet. Might be hard to move in/out of the room??? /house/apartment.. Corners and all. And you MIGHT need that room for somebody else, someday, and need to move your workstation. A large granite slab would be nice for stamping, if that's where you're headed. Me.. I cannot stamp more than about 2X2 feet at a time, and larger does not mean better, but thicker does. Mines 18x24x6". Mine is also a LOT LOWER than a desk top. Easier for stamping, I found. Actually an old end table, cut lower. A nice sized cutting surface could also be useful. Nice plastic tops are available, better than wallyworld cutting boards. Good luck, and Congratulations on both the work station and you husband. Kevin

You are correct that a SPLIITER is for thinning a whole piece and SKIVING is for edges. NO, on the 3-1 or 5-1, they are for shoe making and heavy, heavy leathers. Search for SKIVING and you will find lots of results. Hand skiving is only done with a REALLY sharp knife. Many kinds are adequate. I like a curved glass surface for finer work and use a curved back window from an old chevy truck. My best skiving knife is still a round knife, but have used several purchased skiving knives designed for the purpose. Again, search for the answers here and practice, practice. And if you do not shed blood, you haven't sharpened enough knives or practiced enough. LOL

I had to take apart my 12L to get it to the basement. Still a great task even in pieces. Also took most the heater elements off, in the move. Now not sure how to thread?:"? without those parts. Great machine not even used, from the school district, so really new, got to get it running. Everything moves as it should and is oiled greased or painted ( old mariner standards) This "new", great machine should not rust to death in my basement. Lots of needles and awls. Help me save this great machine!!! Need help to thread and get it to run. Kevin

Hey! i Don't want to be hostile either, Sorry to affend. Lighten up. Please

Used to hear, ..a Pillgram wAS a guy with arrows in his back. (John Wayne) Don't know if it's true. Try it pillgram and let me know how it works.

OK ADD TO MY POST.: Grease/oil it really well. Make sure the knife is good. Your price us more than fair. that's it Kevin

One hour labor by the guy selling is worth $100 for the guy/gal who doesn't know what it's worth. Just my idea. I'm old and probably wrong. That happens! Kevin

Well..part of it is an artist thing. Why not just sew the top piece of leather and then glue it to a back? Just not quite right. Why not use a plastic backing? Will keep forever. Longer than the owner. We make LEATHER PRODUCTS in part for heritage, in part for art, and in part because they have served human kind for say...~~5000 years? Use what you think best for your business and customers. Just ..Please...don't call them "Leather Products". OK? Kevin

Wow, Wow, wow,wow..that changes a few things. Moving to the US and want a machine for a YEAR. I heard years ago advice that might help you. If if floats, *()&, or flies, rent it. Find somebody to RENT you a machine for a year. Pay them handsomely for the privilege. Buy your own supplies of needle and thread, of course, as needed and return the machine in better shape than you got it. You will not be out shipping to the STATES, nor loss on resale. I'm sure at least one of those Sydney sellers would look at rent-to-own or return. Kevin

Yes! Go to the "Specialty Leather works" section of this forum. Next "Other specialties" There you will find "clothing, jackets, vests and chaps". Start searching and reading to "your little pea picken hearts content" ) (Tennessee Earnie Ford, I think). Kevin

Well Bobby, lots of questions, good ones too! Ask your dealer about thread size and needles..Don't need many..they just don't break that often. don't need much thread the first couple weeks either, just use the needle and "sew" cardboard and paper. Holes are good things. Just call Springfield and ask for Kevin.. he will lead ya straight. Tell him another kevin sent you. Kevin PS You'l like the 4000

STOP! STOP! STOP! Why spend a thousand for a $2.oo fix. Call Steve and get it settled for a fraction!! Maybe I'm wrong, but I think not!

Simple answer, good question! Call bob @ toledo industrial. He'll have the answer for you.