Roger

did for for a guy a couple nights ago. took me about 5 hours start to finish. the other wallet in the pic was the original that he had for about 20 years and wanted it duplicated. simple wallet but, the first i have done from scratch. the cover is 3-4oz and the rest is 1 1/2-2 oz

thanks! i sent you a reply

i was going to order a couple things from them then found out that the first order has a $75 minimum. anyone with an existing account want to orderr what i need when they order or a can possibly come up with a $35 order. please pm me if you can help me out

thanks dave! no, i don't charge extra. this is for a real good customer and they are almost always a rush job. he sent me some of his artwork and wanted it all flamed up. it's fun to just go with it!! BLACK ;( he always wants black LOL! not much of a shop. i have an extra bedroom upstairs but, i have a three year old son and set up shop in the corner of the dining room. i also have an unheated room on the back of the house that i use for a shop as i have no garage. i do all my gluing, padding and dye work back there. i'll have to take a better pic of my corner really depends on what it is as to what to actually call it but, motorcycle covers them all LOL Ken! donno bout california... i'm on the east coast in new jersey. the way they are banning things, it ay not take much BTW.. thanks for all the compliments! normally i am not able to show his seats off till i get permissoin to do so a few months after the bike is done

i guess you are talking about a head knife? it it used for cutting thick leather. i use shears for anything up to 8 oz and 10 and over i grab my head knife. it is kept evry sharpe and glides through like butter. i'm sure someone can give you a more detailed answer

i got this seat pan tuesday night and had it all together last night. he needed it done right away to make the trip to sturgis. very similar to the last one. tooling..

thanks very much for all the responces guys! the major... i'll send you a pm

i wanted to finally order a roo hide and try making my own lace. i tried hide crafter but, since being sold i guess the inventory is on hold for the next 3-4 weeks as i was told everything i wanted to order was out of stock. Anyway... does anyone have a sorce for roo hide?

very cool jack!! i was hoping to see some pics of the completed case. it was great working with you and i'm glad that jim was happy with the result

1/8" roo lace and holes. i space mine around 1/2". i mark the holes in the side to match the top as shown in the pics. the spacing is the same on the straight areas and opens up on the curves. i just mark the hole straight out from the holes in the top

well you know i like em! donno what i'ed do without my airbrush anymore

very nice! and very interesting! i have never thought about making anything rough out

i thought about this some when i first saw it posted. i would think a directory would be the way to go. if you wanted it expended with examples and bio stuff that would be cool. i don't think i would ever have anything to sell in a store. i have no time for samples even.

i have heard a couple talk about thier value brand leather. i have been tempted to order a side myself. i have used nothing but herman oak for my seat tops for the last year or so

looks nice and clean to me also clay. nice looking roses

i cut the insert to shape, then cut the seat foam. i use 1/4" over top. cost of the inserts depends on the size. price depends on the size. if i remember right, they start at $50-$60 plus $10 shipping. i include padding in the price. i use http://www.brooklynbuttbuffer.com/ for the inserts. you will need to contact them and let them know you only need the insert. let them know roger from mutha country choppers sent you thier way

just got some pics of the bike this seat is for. you can see the steep angle of the back bone. this is why the design was done facing the rear. i'll have to post a pic once he gets it put on the bike.

thanks freak! it's upside down because the seat sit at around 45 degrees and the design would actually be upside down if it was carved the other way. 1. look at the pics. the hole is cut first 2. http://www.foamforyou.com 3. no! i only use barge or tanner's bond. they are waterproof

Thanks David! i'm not much for words.. i think pictures tell the story. there are many little details but, this is basically how i put a seat together. any specific questions just ask

yes matthew, that is what it is. i have had that one for 10 years at least. here is the completed seat in David's favorite color.

thanks for all the compliments guys! john, i use double ended bits made specifically for drill pop rivet holes in sheet metal. i only leave about 1/2" of drill bit sticking out and i drill through a few rivets and leave the flanges on the drill bit so that i only have around 3/8" of the bit exposed i use 3-4oz for the side and overlap is between 1/4" and 3/8" depending on the look and type of lacing being done ken, to be honest the rasp was purchased as a unit long ago and i have never replaced the blade. it looks to be the same as the ones used for autobody work. hole are about 1/8" the only reason i could see to using a plastic liner would be to keep the foam from soaking up water. i use closed cell foam and since it won't absorb water, i see no reason to use plastic. i have an air riveter but find it more cumbersome to use because of the way i make my seats but, it is a joy to use for sure. it is just easier to pick up and put down the manual gun

now comes the hard part. i was sore for most of the day today after wrestling with this seat last night. i make sure to keep the side good and wet during the whole process and find a good starting place and go to it. i don't pre-drill the holes in the pan as i like to put the where i think they are needed as i mount the cover. i then go back and tackle the hard spots and take care of any puckers. this is what i end up with. any looseness left in the cover will tighten up as the leather dries out. that is pretty much my process. i think it took me a good 1 1/2 to 2 hours to mount this cover last night. any other questions please ask

ok guys here you go. i would have liked to have taken a few more pics but, needed someone taking them while i worked so here you go start to finish. this is one of the more dificult shape seats i cover. this is the start of the foam padding. this seat had 7 layers of foam if i remember right. it also has a polymer insert in it. also.. i shape all my seats by hand. i don't like using power tools as they can remove material too quickly after the foam was done i made a template for the top of the seat. then the top was cut and the holes were punched and it's ready for tooling after tooling i cut a piece for the side. cut out the center and layout the holes. you can make the side out of multiple pieces and use much less leather BTW. i have done them both ways. the cover is then stitched and then the top is glued to the seat and let dry for a bit before starting to mould the rest of the cover. i then use a spray bottle to wet down the side of the seat being careful not to get the tooling wet

tandy sells wristbands pre cut with the snaps already on them. you can have the kids stamp and color them up. they also sell quite a few simple kits.

thanks billy! i started the next seat and will post some pics start to finish. here is the last of this never ending job!!! i was glad to finally get it all boxed up last night and on it's way back!! having to re-do the seats really put me behind and quite a bit of material waisted. i would say it pushed me back a good ten days but, only the second time in 85 seats or so that i have had to start over so, i can't complain too much.