Anne Bonnys Locker

This is not a function of the base machine but related to motor control and solenoids within the machne head.

Pretty much any machine that runs a standard style bobbin case - or shuttle when talking about 111, 211 styles - is at its maximum with 138. Over time bonded nylon can cause wear on parts so I always suggest a machine with a replaceable bobbin case as these are relatively cheap.

The description says "post bed" so the seller may not have any idea of what they are selling.

I would suggest you talk to someone like Bob at Toledo as he is going to sell you what you need based on your requirements. Same goes for all of the dealers who participate here because if you are not happy then we are the people you are going to tell! There are many sewing machine dealers but very few specialise in leather.

Possibly the feed dog is too low. To raise it there is a screw on the front bar underneeth. You probably need it sitting up about 0.5-0.75mm

Wiz, a basic rule of bearing design is that essentially comes down to - the faster you run it the shorter the bearing life - and from memory it is based on the square of the RPM. If you cut the speed down to 800rpm then the load is an order of magnitude less and it would take decades to destroy the bearings on light use even without oil! It is not something I would suggest for a production machine but for a $50 hobby machine where the user can squirt some oil in every 8 hours of sewing it will never be a problem.

Basically it is modelled on a predecessor to the Singer 29k. The manual I have supplied with the machine has been written by my business partner and I based on customer feedback. There is a simple timber base supplied and all you need do is clamp it to a bench but you would not be the first customer to make a custom stand. If you have any questions or problems email me darren@ablesewing.com.au

There is a Taiwanese company that lists them but they only make to order and MOQ is 1000!

I would suggest you also check the needle bar assembly as you mentioned needle wobble. Does the needle bar wobble side to side? If so then remove the faceplate and you will see a small bracket that holds the assembly in place. This may need adjustment.

There is a Chinese machine called the GR1 which is rather crude but essentially a beefed up short arm GA5 and it is sold in several versions including one that will sew up to 3/4" with the only difference being the height the presser foot bar is set at!

The 336 was built as a high speed fabric sewer and would struggle with most leather except garment weight. Theoretically it could handle 138 (if it uses 134 needles) but probably is going to work best with 69 thread through an 18g needle. Needles breaking repeatedly suggests a problem. Are you running the right size needle for the thread and is the thread running smoothly through the machine?

Methinks you need to just start playing with it. There are losts of people on the site to help and Steve will back you up all the way.

My problem with the Boss is that it is a relatively low volume machine yet the most likely to be seen on the For Sale pages here. Surely that says something.

Neel, As anyone with any common sense knows computers are powered by black magic. When they blow up they let the smoke out just like any electrical device but there is a certain evil smell to it that attacks your brain and points out that you have just lost all the files you have saved over the years.

Bob, I have had to tune up a few 441 clones over the last couple of years but have yet to see any problems with the basic structure of the machine. There only seem to be two problems with new machines: 1/ machine purchased from someone who did not set it up properly, remove burs, fine tune timing etc. 2/ Parts moved in transport. Obviously if the shipping company is harsh enough any damage is possible. On older machines the only adjustment ever needed is the angle bracket that holds the needle bar assembly in place. I know you have probably forgotten more about sewing machines than I will ever know but have you ever seen any fault that would consign a 441 to the scrap yard? As an engineer I just cannot see how. My only experience with kevlar thread is that it is about as forgiving as wire rope and will wear the hell out of the thread path and shuttle, hence my suggestion that if I had a customer silly enough to want to use it I would be sending bits off to be nitrided to make them harder. A titanium oxide shuttle from Hirose would be a no brainer and a dozen shuttle springs would have to be part of the package.

There are lots of Singer 7 parts available as the Chinese build the 7-33 although not everything will fit. It is even possible to take some Chinese parts and modify them - as I do to make the 7-5 take up spring. It is also possible that a lot of 7 class parts will fit the Adler but you need to be prepared to muck around a bit to do it.

Seth, not stupid at all! There are two types of white thread - raw white and bleached white - and most coloured thread is made from the raw white. The bleaching process can cause changes to the thread properties and often cause it to be stiffer. An off or Raw White thread is a safer proposition as it will run better and will be less likely to break down over time in UV light. Only consider the important issues mate.

User frustration is a common problem. No matter how professional the dealer an edge of frustration can slip in there too because no professional enjoys it when a user has problems. Hope you have not seen any of our third party comments as being a personal attack on you as most of us have seen the way Bob has helped people when they did not even buy a machine from him!

Cough, splutter!

Happen to have a 31-15 in front of me right now and there is nowhere to mount it. If you bought one for one of the walking foot Consews you will need to drill/tap holes to make it work. Better off with a swingaway bed mounted type.

Personally I would suggest to anyone wanting a full on production machine to not be a tight arse and go buy a Juki or Adler. Kevlar thread is extremely specialised and will eat into any machine but there are only about four wear parts at risk so I suspect if you trashed the machine it has more to do with operator error. If I was to supply a Juki or Adler for Kevlar thread then there are parts that I would have nitrided and titanium oxide coated.

I was going to mention that this was bery similar to a Singer 7 class. China builds the 7-33 style machine and while not all of the parts are exact I have managed to make a dollar or two modifying them to suit. I even make a spring to fit the 7-5

Spent several minutes typing a post that has just evaporated. Long story short: there are lots of second hand ex-factory machines out there but the cost of getting them up to scratch can be more than buying a new, fully supported machine from a dealer.

Spat my drink out Wiz. Goog laugh Nearly choked on this post. Stop teasing

99/100 problems come down to little issues like this LOL