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Everything posted by simontuntelder
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So you want to switch because the spools will look good in pictures and because Hermes uses it? :-D
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If you're not afraid of ordering from Europe, there's an old English company called Priory that still makes wad punches. I only have vintage ones, but they're good and I've heard that the recent ones are descent too. There's also a German company called Paffrath, which supplies a ton of regular tool and leather stores around Europe. I have a complete set of their cylindrical (non-arch) punches and for the price they're unbeatable (again, at least in Europe) I think I got a complete set from 1-25 mm including 0.5 for something like $200. They're definitely of a descent quality and made in Germany. However simple polish did them good.
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English Saddle Making You Tube Video 2
simontuntelder replied to gmace99's topic in Saddle Construction
Hi Gmace, unfortunately the video isn't showing. Would love to see you work no matter the quality. -
I can't remember how I came across these links, but that's not the point. The tools are homenade, but they look even better than anything you can buy and I think yo guys will appreciate it. http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/remark/pages/hobbies/tools.html http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/remark/pages/hobbies/moretools.html
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Test the waters for us please, Constabulary. I saw that add, as I'm used to going through ebay.de - I've sometimes come across some nice, handy mallet dies on eBay.de. Now I'm looking to have some regular dies made, once I find a good, reliable and hopefully fairly priced maker of dies. I think I'll buy a Lucris III clicker
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That tool is for sewing very thin and fine leathers - as in garment weight leathers. Stick to your awl or get a small spring punch or a small wad punch.
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To my knowledge Dixon went under not too long ago. I'm very interested what will happen to the company and their stock.
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I'm about to buy a lot of copper rivets and I was about to order them from my usual supplier in the US. However I was wondering if there were any good suppliers out there, who sold them at especially good prices? I looking for size #12 and #14 copper rivets.
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Hi Sona, thanks for stepping in. German is not my mother's tongue and you did a way better job than I did translating it, so if you would do the honour that would be great. If you're not up to it, then I'll gladly give it a go, when I have the time. Und Walter, danke schön für alles. Du bist ein echter handwerker mit vielen Facetten.
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If you need it, and you can't find it in Norway, and it is available in Denmark, I'll gladly send you some. I think I know an old saddler here in Denmark, who brought one of these Swiss clamps back to Denmark. As far as I remember, he didn't like it (at all... And even added some cussing), so I'll try to buy it from him. My access to woodworking tools is close to non existing.
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"I have received some questions regarding the sewing clamps (or rather the special Swiss swing clamps) The Swiss saddlers used to use the sewing clamps that one held clamped down between one's legs, but they don't use that any more. Even the big ones (not quite sure which one is refered to) which you sit on, are not used by us any longer because this smaller model is very easy to position and use depending on what you need to clamp. I have made templates of this because the curved shapes are very hard to measure. The total height of the sewing clamp is 80 cm, however that is only suitable if your height is around 1.60 m, if you're taller, you should make the clamp 85 cm tall. The base plate should also be made somewhat bigger, so it has a bit more heft, if you're working on a big or heavy project. I have made it with a 5 cm thick plate underneath. The material used is hornbeam (kind of beech), but one could use steamed beech or even plywood for the foot lever." IF any of this doesn't make sense, I'll try to do a more accurate translation.
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I'll try my best to translate Walter's posts from German to English. I think there's a lot of knowledge to be shared from him. BUT please do keep in mind that German isn't my first language, and I haven't got the time to do a completely precise translation, nor do I have the knowledge. But I will do my best to give you the meaning and the essence of it, so not a 100% accurate translation. Here goes. "If you aren't using a pricking iron (which is called a comb in Switzerland because it looks like a haircomb), it's very important that you keep the holes aligned and straight when you are using an awl to punch the holes. A saddler's stitches are done in a slightly acute angle, so they have a slanted appearance. They are never flat or straight, then you could might as well be sewing with a round awl. Also I always use twisted thread, never a braided thread. Personally I usually use a thread called Koban, which is a polycore thread - polyester and cotton. My next post will be on the stitching clams/sewing clamps that we have used in Switzerland for over a 100 years"
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I'm wondering which machine you can't find in the US? I think the assortment of available machinery is often way more accessible in the US. Anyways, to help you a bit, you should be able to deduct 20% of the price, as you won't have to pay German vat. On the other hand I don't know about the import charges. They vary depending on the product category.
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Which Adler Sewing Machine Are The Best?
simontuntelder replied to baadSoM's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Hej Thommas, du finder ikke en maskine, der kan bruges til det helt tynde og det helt tykke. Der skal i al fald to maskiner til. Men din opfattelse af det helt kraftige, er garanteret anderledes end mange brugere her. 10mm materiale er ikke synderligt meget og både 169 og 269 burde kunne klare det. Enhver maskine med alternerende trykfødder kan klare 10mm. Den helt store forskel er trådtykkelsen, som maskinerne kan sy med. Der er også danske forhandlere, men de er tåbelige mange af dem og umulige at arbejde med. Dog har jeg hørt, at Walter fra Pfaff i Bredebro ligger inde med gode ting (ikke kun Pfaff) og jeg har engang fået en god snak med en af Scanteams mekanikere. Dog sælger de ikke udelukkende Adler og Adler er svære at opdrive i DK. Hvis jeg var dig, ville jeg købe en maskine i Tyskland fra Sieck, Frank Brunnet eller lignende -
Hallo Walter, thank you so much for that explanation. I never knew that you were supposed to ground the tip of the awl. I have some extra Blanchard awls lying around - I'll try to sharpen one of them according to your explanation when I get some extra time on my hand. And I'll also have to order some of that Lea compound that you speak so highly of. Which machine do you ground/sharpen/polish the awls on - is it just a regular bench grinder? Vielen dank für die deutsche Version. Ich verstand alles viel besser. Und ich will gerne mit einer Übersetzung in der Zukunft helfen.
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Replacement Blades For Skiving / Splitting Machines
simontuntelder replied to ClaireAshton's topic in Leather Tools
Terrible news but things seem to have been going down hill for ages. I was wanting to try some of their strap end punches, but never had the courage to do so because I wasn't very impressed with the modern Dixon tools that I did buy. Hopefully they'll re-emerge and make better tools than they did before. Am I the only one who's thinking about what they'll be doing with their stock of tools?- 18 replies
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Barebone Cost To Veg Tan Hides?
simontuntelder replied to DavidL's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
The art of tanning is lost everywhere. There was a school in Germany where you could become a tanner and that school closed down not too long ago. I saw a guy who tried to tan an entire cowhide and it was tanned surprisingly enough. But it was very uneven in thickness, the flesh side very messy (not to mention the grain side) and it looked more or less like rawhide. It was also tanned in oak bark that was salvaged from the woods. I say, do it. I'm sure you'll drive Sedgwicks out of business in no time. And maybe add $100.000 to to your budget for unforeseen and realistic expenses. -
There are at least two sources for unwaxed linen thread in your neighboring country, Denmark. Skindhuset and Laederiet. It is possible to find in Germany with thread manufacturers like Hoogen and Gruschwitz - although both might have gone out of business. Or try googling leinenzwirn 18 (typical handsewing weight) and then 3,4 or 5 or how many plys you're after.
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I've only tried it once for fun, and natural veg tan does burn a bit around the edges. Latigo does it a bit less - probably due to the wax and content. I was thinking about trying it a bit more. If I did so, I would probably add 1mm excess material, and sand the burnt edges off, which I almost do already, when I burnish.
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Nice videos. Are there any advantages to the Japanese creasers compared to the French or English creasers in your opinion? I own quite a number of English and French creasers and I'm satisfied with them, but I'm always ready to try out new tools if there could be an advantage to them.
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Barebone Cost To Veg Tan Hides?
simontuntelder replied to DavidL's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
Seriously, go visit a tannery, that'll give you a more realistic perspective. The amount of HEAVY machinery needed is huge - even for tanneries doing "simple" pit tanning. Then comes buying raw materials. Securing useable hides - where will you get them? The cow living in a field near you might not be suitable at all. And you have to find a middleman selling wet whites or wet blues - unless you want to do the liming process yourself. Then comes finding and securing tanning agents. Do you know where to buy mimosa, oak, or whatever you need? Then comes 10.000 other variables that makes it virtually impossible. I could keep listing them, if you want. Go visit a tannery. Any will do. That'll give you a much needed insight and perhaps also a deeper appreciation of the work that goes into a piece of leather. -
Barebone Cost To Veg Tan Hides?
simontuntelder replied to DavidL's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
Have you ever been to a tannery? -
So I figured I should probably give a follow up on the talk about splitters. I was about to order the heritage splitter directly from Weaver, when I stumbled upon one from a gentleman from Germany (neighboring country) who apparently ordered it from Weaver himself and never really used it or maybe did it twice according to himself. Looking at the pictures it seems to be in perfect condition and I saved $450 in vat, fees and taxes. Now I just have to wait a couple of days before it shows up on my doorstep.
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From experience you don't have to change the appearance of the blade. If you just hone/polish it, it's more than usable as is. Very fine grit and a stabbing motion on all sides will help the awl's performance. If you want a pointier tip, buy a secondary awl would be my suggestion. Some people even cut off to the tip of the regular, more pointy awls, which will give a shape like the Japanese one you have. And the company is called Kyoshin Elle.
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Where Can I Find The Equivalent Tool Or Product In The Uk
simontuntelder replied to ClaireAshton's topic in Suppliers
Thanks, but I don't see any belts. Am I looking the wrong place?