Cumberland Highpower

I understand your point. I would say "cheap" American made mechanics tools would have been along the lines of some Craftsman, Bon-Econ, Stanley, New Brititian, Fleet, etc back in the day. If you go to a flea market and purchase some USA made generic sockets and wrenches, Even without names, you'd find they are as strong or stronger than the best of Chinese tools made today.

I'm not quite sure if that's really a fact? Perhaps in the 1970s....? My wife is from Europe and from the many times I've been across Europe, I find American goods somewhat coveted. Chryslers and Jeeps are fairly desirable and a little on the exotic side. (My father in law owns a Jeep and specifically sought it out). American mechanics tools command good prices iif/when found and are pretty desirable. Ironically the same with firearms. Remingtons and Winchesters are sought after and considered a prize item. (Here I would say they don't know better, as most European firearms are superior in design, materials, fit and finish). Perhaps Northern Ireland is a different tune. One place I haven't been yet but would like to visit.

That's hard to say, I remember the tools, not the prices. I haven't bought Chinese tools since I've been a "Grownup" I think I may have been 17 when I bought the double box-end wrench for my 86 Ford Tempo. (Now that was junk, Canadian/American made mostly I believe). I bought that wrench because at the time it was the only tool that could reach far enough remove the rear strut mounting nuts. Most of the tools I had at that time were from Oddlots. I did buy a set from India at Oddlots I remember. I think they were "Gedore" At the time I thought was a good buy, but they were literally as brittle as glass....Only thing I've seen worse than Chinese made.

Well, if it makes anyone feel better I happen to have one tool made in China that is excellent. A double box end wrench that I bought 20 years ago. It's well forged out of great steel. Of all the junk Chinese tools I've handled or used/broken, how did this piece turn out to be good? I think it was an accident, a fluke. Maybe they were short of scrap Studebakers and melted down a prototype T99, I don't know.....

There is a leather "folding" machine that has small metal fingers that folds the leather over. Usually a skived edge with some glue on it. I don't know if a folder can handle a wire inserted in it though? Perhaps with the right feet? I see really ancient ones from a century or so ago pop up used on occasion. I think you can get new folders. Maybe Galli or Bibo or Bimac makes....Call Dan Naegle.

Interesting you brought that up Whiz. I looked up the "Monster 2 balance wheel" after you pointed it out just to see what it is.. It's a slightly oversized handwheel/flywheel. Looks like it's comparable to many a factory handwheel/flywheel in size..If that's a big flywheel to Sailrite I think most heavy machines would shred it! Maybe it's just a disclaimer like "Only use factory ammunition in your new firearm"?

You're right Shoepatcher. I was able to do business with Connie Naegle! lol

I'm just curious on what that part does. I have a pair of Landis 16's sitting around. I noticed neither of mine don't have this part, it must not have any real function in practical use? Funny you mention Eli, I saw him at an auction this summer. Talked a bit. At the time I thought to maybe giving the tight machine a real good going over and keeping it to sew on. We briefly talked, and he seemed pretty friendly. However, the moment I asked if parts were available he instantly started making a scowling face and turning side to side in an effort to evade any further conversation. Just said "Yeah parts are available" and walked off. Literally, it was a reaction that would have been no different if I had ripped a really rank quantity of gas right under his nose. I was astonished by such a lack of professionalism. My next question would have been along the lines of perhaps doing a restoration on the one, or at least I'd remove the puller assembly and send it back to IL with him to rebuild if he had parts for it. (the only part that seems to have any play in it). I guess I didn't get that far. I'm still thinking it, although now I feel less inclined. I like the look of the 16's but I pretty much get the feeling they've become a dead end, obsolete machine.

What is this part on a Landis 16? The cast iron part with a couple curves cast into it, right above the threading/take up arm door?

I am curious about these new brushless servos. Specifically the Sailrite Workmaster and to a lesser degree the Reliable 6000.... I never really got into servos, other than the 2 that came on things I bought. (the brushed kind). I removed them and installed older clutch motors, mainly as those servos had low to no torque at any lower speed. (I do have a Randall Benchtop/horizontal burnisher that is built on a brushed type servo, but the light items I burnish on it do not really stall it out at slow speeds). Now I see these sailrites, and on some youtube videos I see they are extremely torqueful (Is that a word?) Anyway, I am curious if they'll work directly without a speed reducer on older machines such as a Randall or Landis 16? Anyone use them on an Alder 205 or a Juki 441? Do they have the guts to power a Union Lock at 600 spm? Anyone having experience to share? The thoughts of possibly adding a Needle Positioner is intriguing.... Thinking to order one for a bigger machine, and if it's inadequate to put on a smaller class machine.

I've never tried 3-in-1 on anything mechanical and now you scare me Bob Although. maybe similar, I've bought many a firearm that had been sitting for years after being oiled down with a light "Gun-oil" like Rem-Oil. Often times gummed up so badly to render them inoperable. Really requiring a teardown and deep scrubbing.

Something makes me think the images embossed on there have something to do with it's use? I can't tell what they are from my screen....Ducks? Maybe it's a game carrier of some kind? If you've got the photo, maybe easier to just order one from the source?

Hmm, Maybe I need to oil a machine head up and pack it away for a couple decades in a hot shed and see what happens. That's a bummer about your furnace blower motors seizing up. Only blower motor I've come across seized from dried oil was a NOS 1/20 HP Dayton from the 80's that I bought on Ebay to make a spare bobbin winder. When I took it out of the box it was stiff to the point you'd think the factory lubed it with epoxy. The furnace in my house was installed in 1972. I oil it yearly with the same can I use in the shop. It needs to be replaced due to inefficiency and just being flat out old, but bearings are smooth as glass.

Man that's pretty harsh... Every machine I own, including some over a century old are regularly well oiled with either 0w-20 or good old fashioned 30w. I'm including a variety of Adlers, Singers, Union Locks, Randall/Campbells in that mix. None have ever seized up...Overall I'd say it's superior lubricant to a light machine oil. Ah, well I guess I do use one non auto lube on occasion. Sometimes I use Ballistol on the shuttles. It seems to lube nicely and absorbs well into leather/thread if I get carried away or careless.

Ok, a side question, not related to bobbins: My 67 seems to have a loose cog wheel on the top shaft. It seems to be just a touch loose. I believe a setscrew needs to be tightened up. Looking it over, it appears the screw must be under the belt and not to the side like on the 167. What is the best way to tighten this up? Can I reach up from the bottom? Is it a slotted screw or hex? (If hex what size?). Can I just slip the belt off the lower cog and access it through the machine from the bottom? This 67 is in excellent shape, 98%. I don't know it's age though, could be from late 60's. (Chandler import in Chandler table w/Belgian made motor). The belt appears slightly different than the timing belts I see online. Must be an older type, as it's made from what appears to be black polyester cords with steel cleats crimped over them. Belt looks to be in great shape. Given the great shape of the machine, and it's limited use, I'd imagine someone at Adler forgot to tighten a screw a way back when.

Are you going to slick/power slick the edge after the bevel? If you're talking 2 layers of 5/6oz and up, or a single layer of 7/8oz I recommend a 1" belt sander. I use 1x42 Kalamazoo sanders w/100 grit belts. If you plan to slick the edge/s a good belt sanding makes a great surface for it. No sense in messing around with fine grit sandpapers. I only use edgers on odd pieces and when wet molding leather. If it's wet your edger needs to be razor sharp. I find the Weaver edgers to be very easy to use and easy to sharpen....Kind of like shaving with a safety razor for those new to edgers. Did I also mention they're pretty affordable?

That's a pretty sharp machine. Looks to have some real age on it. Never seen a Durkopp patcher before.

Thanks for the input gents. I guess I'm hard to please and/or stuck in a time warp! I still have a hard time with the 205's of "old" when it comes to the handwheel rotating towards you AND having a reverse... Just seems "alien" to have a reverse I am warming up to the 969 though. Perhaps in spite of the little finger wheel I may go for an ECO. I do like the other functions from what I see. Does anyone know where the internal motor of the 969 Eco is made? Is it a German/Czech/European built motor or is it Chinese?

True they are different types, but I dont see see why they wouldn't be made to utilize the same bobbins. the difference between the bobbins is very small. maybe .020" in diameter. Even German Engineers with a propensity for excess wouldn't go that far, would they? When I look online, most retailers reference that the bobbins should fit both? It would appear, at least with my machines, 69 bobbins fit the 67, but not vice versa. I'm planning to order some extra bobbins and perhaps pre-wound bobbins....Just wanting to get it straight before laying down the cash. Maybe I should try the PFAFF bobbins like Michael mentioned. I have access to a Pfaff 145, maybe the same?

Ok, I pulled a couple Adlers out of the corner where they've been for 6-8 years.... I'm setting up for a new project and pulled out an Adler 69-372 and an Adler 67-373. Now, after setting them up, I am a little surprised the bobbins are slightly different in size. the bobbins in the 69 are slightly smaller than what's in the 67...And the 67 bobbins will not fit in the 69. It appears a few vendors online list them as the same part and should be interchangeable...But now I'm left wondering.....I had always just assumed they were the same size, and I never directly tested bobbins from one machine to the other in the past. I'm pretty sure the 67-373 doesn't have a 167 hook assembly in it, and the bobbin casing in the 67 is marked adler. the casing in the 69 appears to be original also, but I cannot find any markings on it other than a "DA" Assuming that means Durkopp Adler, although isn't the hook and needle logo. Any thoughts?

Actually UWE i've seen new 205 shuttles with the same part number system he's displaying. Maybe they're made in Romania? Just a guess. There should only be 3 types of Adler shuttles of this size/scale. for the 105 (Also used in early 205), the 205 and the 969.

The Adler 205's came with 2 different size shuttles. The earlier 205's had the adler 105 shuttle. The later models had the larger 205 specific shuttle. I have a 205-64 myself and mine has the larger late model shuttle. If your 205-64 had 105 prefix on the original shuttle part number, you have the old style 105 shuttle. on your 205-64 any time you see the 105 prefix it's a 105/205 part, if it starts with 205 it's a 205 spec part. Now, your new part has a new type of part number system used. Durkopp Adler changed how they spec parts at some point. If you look online they have a conversion chart to convert old numbers to the new number system. I believe the standard singer 45k shuttle is the same as the adler 105. You may want to check into that to see if I remember correctly. Now that I've said all that, I can't really tell from your photos. the fit of the shuttle is fairly precise. does it fit INSIDE of the race that it runs in?

Thanks for the reply Uwe. That's a minor bummer the feet and plates arent' the same. I did notice the barrel bobbin was a bit larger. It's a shame we cant get a bobbin about the size of a Union Lock Stitch in a new machine. Maybe it's a handicap for very high speed operation, I don't know. I do know I've probably hit some high speeds with a UL though. Yes too bad the old 205 is out of production.... I was up at Weaver Leather yesterday and happened to step into the machine repair shop and saw about 8 or so in various stages of assembly. Not that they had failed on the floor, but apparently the Czechs didn't crate them up properly and an entire batch was damaged in shipment. I guess I had a quick chance to look a bit deeper into the mechanicals. The most peculiar feature I find is the little finger wheel on the 969 eco. The fine tune finger wheel just seems to lack the fine control of a larger handwheel.

I recently received a sales flyer from Weaver with the "New" 969 Pure sewing machine in it.... Overall I am curious if anyone has purchased one and what the thoughts are? I've never used a 969 in any production capacity, also I have played around on many occasions with an ECO in the showroom over the past few years. I was always left with some mixed thoughts. For the past 16 years I've mostly run hook and awl machines (Campbell/Randalls, Union Locks) and a few 205 variants of Adlers.... I am left wondering if the 969 has any advantage over the 205-370? It seems to have a little more clearance under the arm, but what else? I did notice the bobbin was slightly larger, and a little higher lift, but overall I wonder if it was just a way to cheapen up a machine a bit. Seems like allot of plastic is being used. Are the feet/plates the same as on the 205? I'm contemplating to sell my Union Lockstitch machines and perhaps buy a "new" 969. Nothing wrong with the UL's they are great machines, only tired of the noise. Would like a high speed machine that doesn't require ear plugs.