Cumberland Highpower

How about Seiko? I'm thinking to order a new one myself. A few misc parts (screws etc) can't be avoided.

Been looking at some mid size unison feed machines and came across a couple Seikos for sale. I've never owned a Seiko and curious how the build quality is? Do they match or exceed the quality of lets, say a (Japanese) Juki? How about compared to the German Pfaff and Adler machines? The only Seiko I've actually looked over and had my hands on was a Seiko Harness Stitcher, a CH8 if I remember correctly. The Seiko's I've been looking at are relatively pricey late models. (STH-8BLD-3)

I would personally never buy any a Chinese clone of anything. A Genuine Juki is, overall a superior machine. From a technical standpoint, the Chinese are a master of "Package Polish" making a product look good on the shelf. They often do not hold the tolerances of a Japanese or Western made machine as well as often times skipping good heat treatment on critical parts in an effort to keep cost low. Sometimes a "clone" isn't an identical twin. There are times a couple, a few, or many parts are made to a different spec and cannot be interchanged with a part from another "clone' or the genuine article. What will you do in 10 years parts wise, when " Peoples' Revolutionary Golden Dog Fart Machinery Plant no. 112" closes or stops making sewing machines? Yes, for many a Chinese clone can last many years. If nothing else, buy the real article for the pride in ownership. I find allot of irony, borderline hypocrisy here on this forum when it comes to Chinese machines....Many are all about made local, made in USA, made in Canada, Made in England, support the small shops/etc and at first chance to save a buck, run out and buy a Chinese machine.

Sounds like this post worked out with a little help from Constabulary and Cowboy Bob.

Whiz that's quite a bit of money in 1988 dollars. I see them listed online as new machines for $5750 today. didn't Mast sell them for just under 4K 20 years ago? I kinda miss those days. I guess the UL machines have gone down quite a bit as well, probably from other reasons. I paid $800 10 years ago for a tight machine and $200 for an equally tight one 2 years ago. 10 years from now they'll be bringing scrap price. (Hope scrap is up!)

Uwe would you prefer if I had said "Juki" 441 is based on Singer patents? I am trying to find out if presser fit interchange, not really to debate the history of Juki/Nakajima. (I get bored easily). I guess my proof is that I've been around long enough to remember both the Chrysler K car and Nakajima stitchers Here is a photo of a Nakajima 421. I only looked 3 mins on google, and came to this. Juki sells this as the TSC 421 nowdays like most of the Nakajima machines of old. Industrial Sewing machine leather - $1975 | General Items | Klamath Falls, OR | Shoppok

When I was a teenager my parents bought a 145 and I used it a fair amount until I had my own tools. The stitch adjustment is just made when the knob is "screwed" in and out. When you screw it in or out, it cams the handle against the plate screwed to the exterior of the machine. Really very simple design. Just look it over. I doubt it's stripped out, they're fairly solid. It's spring loaded to stay "down" If you want reverse you have to hold it up in "Reverse." In the sewing world, not many sew miles in reverse.

Maybe someone knows Constabulary? Sounds like we're in a similar overall boat Here is a presser foot for the Juki TSN 411 (also for the TSC 441) that could work on your singer 45k "If" we can find out if the presser bar is the same size. These feet are on Ebay $40. Maybe someone has a Juki and a Singer 45k/Adler 105/205 side by side?

I am curious if the Singer 45K feet will fit on the presser bar of the Juki TSN 411/ 441 series machine? Just curious of they match/bolt up. Since the Juki 441 was the Nakajima before, and likely based on Singer patents I'm inclined to guess they will fit up? Mainly shopping for specialized presser feet to convert a Juki TSC 441 to TSN 421U specs and curious if Singer 45k/Adler 105 feet will bolt up as well.

Looking for a good roller foot for an Adler 105 or 205. Ideally a German made OE foot, but I would be happy with a good clean factory made Singer 45K roller foot. Let me know what you might have.

I know it's an old post but nobody ever replied, so I will in case you or someone else is still curious. Yes there are creasing rolls for the embossers you show. I have a Randall just like in the top photo. Custom rolls are easy to get, Cambell/Randall should be making them. Last time I asked about a custom embossing wheel, I think the quote was around $500.....The embossing wheels are much larger than the hobby embosser rollers like weaver and Tipmann would sell. Campbell/Randall should have some common patterns in stock that are probably priced much lower than a custom wheel. These machines are very slow, you'd be better off with a regular creaser. Only advantage here is the heating element in your Randall Creaser, the heat will make the crease take a little better set.....

Thanks for the info/manual Gents. I might be wondering all about nothing, but guess that's the way I am

I think the Pfaff while a great machine, is worth about $400 as it sits in your photos. I guess people by Chinese machines out of necessity (Not many/any choices these days in harness stitchers). I wouldn't touch a Chinese made machine if it were given to me and to buy one new, not a chance. Other than poor quality, dumping tactics, commercial espionage, patent violations galore, human rights abuses (commies love to shoot people) and funding the PLA and PLAN to wage future wars against us....How about a little pride of ownership? Lets all stop feeding the Dragon.

I recently purchased a real clean 205-64 and gave it a short spin in my shop this week. It sews very well without issues, but I notice the shuttle hook when sewing doesn't quite retract out of the way of the needle when the needle is on the way "down" and might be a very light touch involved. When the needle bottoms out and the hook comes forward it catches the loop great, without any issue and stitches just fine. I cant' really say it's a problem, but I am curious.....I've owned both a 205-370 and 205-25 in the past and I do remember the 205-370 shuttle hook rotates completely out of the way when the needle comes down and no chance of touching on the downstroke whatsoever. The 205-64 doesn't rotate the shuttle hook nearly as far counter-clockwise (needle tip clears though the relief cut in the shuttle hook right behind the point) but clockwise the shuttle does come to rest at the same exact clockwise position as the 205-370.... Being a 205 series machine with the same shuttle I'm a little perplexed? I'd assume the 205 series should all function identically? I am wondering if there is a shuttle hook timing/adjustment as well as needle bar timing? Besides that minor puzzlement, I actually can say in honesty I prefer this 205-64 to the 205-370 I had. There is far less "Stuff" around the needle and the end of the machine head. Overall I can see things quite a bit better....Maybe I'm biased as I have 8 hook and awl machines in my shop, I don't know...Anyway.... Does anyone happen to have a manual/service manual for the 205-64 or link to one?

Hello KGG thanks for your post. I appreciate your offer, although I believe your feet are too small. I have an Adler 69 class free arm machine setup with the exact pattern/type of roller foot as yours shown. Those feet are about 1/2 the size of what I need for the 205-64. I think the 205-64 takes a jumbo version of this foot.

Constabulary thanks for the reply. I checked out the link you mentioned and I'm not 100% certain if it's the right style foot for the 205-64. The machine I have has a square surface where the presser foot bolts up. (A round shaft machined flat on 3 surfaces). The feet shown on the expired ebay listing look more like a clamp on deal for a round shaft. Maybe the 45k is a little different? I'm wondering if the presser foot shaft could be reversed/flipped to put a smooth round on the bottom? (I might take a look later today) I guess I could always fabricate one, but would rather purchase a factory made piece. (Less work, not enough time here ).

Hello I'm curious if anyone here might know where I can find a roller presser foot for an Adler 205-64? Seems like I remember the feet from the 105-64 might fit up? Maybe some of the Chinese clone feet?? Ideally I'd like to find one that is smooth and NOT knurled.

jcuk you're right on all points. I would really hate to see them go under or stop making leather tools....It's a tough market these days and overall less demand for leatherworking tools I guess...

I buy Fenice and Uniters. The Fenice can be power burnished. The Uniters to a degree also. But don't get carried away. When I say power burnished I mean when using a FC2E. I've actually used quite a bit of Weaver's edge paint in the past, I think LCI is the supplier. It's not a latex edge product like the 2 above, more of an acrylic I guess but for certain applications, I found it gave much better coverage on one coat than the 2 above. It's nowhere as durable though.

Thanks for the posting Mike. I was kinda looking for an off the shelf supplier rather than a custom made leather.

I've done some business in 2020 with them. To be honest I'd almost not be surprised if they tank and go under. CSO's quality seems to be taking endless nosedives. 20 years ago I noticed quality wasn't what it was in the past. now days in 2021 I notice it's not what it was in 2001.....

Guess none to be found these days?

I like your project but I have to ask, is it really worth the amount of work considering what a good used machine can sell for? Are you just into restoring old skivers?

I use those machines. I'd say they probably would work for you so long as your strap/belt is thick enough to support itself and you keep a sharp blade against the leather. I've edged chrome-oil leather sewn in layers but that's a bit firmer than some chrome you might be working?

They're a pretty good splitter. I suspect standard 6" blades from Randall will fit or can be made to fit. I have one of these Fendas that I used a few times that was factory built as a motorized splitter, no cranking required. I used it for something specific until I acquired a UA and now just collects dust...