Cumberland Highpower

Where is all this Chinese quality you speak of? I never heard anyone say "I want a good one, I'll buy Chinese."

No thanks. I'm not a fan of Chinese imports. Not really looking to contribute $14 to the next Chinese Aircraft Carrier either..... If you already own one that's ok. Nobody is judging you here, we're all friends.

Shoepatcher you mentioned Weaver's 2050, are you saying they are the same machine that Consew is selling? Or are you just correcting Bob?

Really? You must be joking?

Interesting Bob.... Handstitched I am mostly just curious. I'd pick up another machine to have if I could get a quality machine made in Germany/Japan Just looking at the Consew 2050 as I feel like there is a chance it's not made in China. Wasn't too long ago they sold Seiko stitchers with a Consew label. I can still order Juki 441's but I never was real fond of them. I do have Adlers including a 205 currently.

I am curious about the Consew 2050 sewing machines. I've owned a few Consews over the years (Seikos made in Japan). And I'm curious about the current model 2050. The price tag on the new machines seems pretty high, (compared to some imports) leading me to wonder if these 2050s are made in Japan? Are they made in Japan or China? If they're Chinese are they same machines sold by Weaver/etc and just painted blue? Anyone have any thoughts on these machines?

Looking for a used Seiko CH8. If you happen to have one let me know your price, location/region and send a few photos. Thanks!

I've got a couple of Champions...A narrow throat I modified for special work and a regular depth Champion. I don't know if any manuals still exist? But truthfully they're so simple and heavily built I don't think you'd ever need a manual if you know anything about sewing machines. I like how they sew. As far as parts go they are nonexistent. Best thing to do is scour for a used junker an steal what you need. I use cut down UL needles in mine. I run z twist linen on top and s on the bobbin when using linen. Z on both when running poly. Maybe my favorite old hook and awl stitcher, just something about them.

That's a top and bottom feed skiver. (Not 100% of the true technical name for it). Great for thicker/heavier materials. I've known of a few Yoders using them in harness shops. They're good for heavy stock but not really suitable all that much for thinner (Depends how thin you go I guess). As a splitter, well...they can work on straps I guess. (Might as well use a bench splitter). A desirable machine overall.

I have a Randall leather burnishing machine and I'm curious if anyone has used one and what they thought about it? It's a green(ish) hammer painted burnisher made from heavy castings and has the ability to tilt to the side. Has anyone here used one much? I'm thinking to put the one I have up for sale. They must be pretty uncommon as I've only seen a couple? It looks very similar overall to another very old burnisher (maybe turn of the last century) I have, the old one can't tilt and has a fairly large wooden head made from what appears to be cocobolo?

You know, I've been running stitchers for almost 20 years now and I can't seem to wrap my head around a reverse....Even when I run something modern like and Adler 205 I never use it.I guess old habits die hard!

Hmm... Well it's not all that uncommon for a threaded needle type machine to have an issue with the lock like that. In the past when I first started I had issues with Adler 205's and a Luberto Classic doing the same thing. The problem is that when you have a spring loaded tensioner (No brakes) and a threaded needle that's how it will be. You'll need to use a smaller thread. 277 and even 207 is too large for a machine stitched wallet in 3/4oz leather. go to a smaller thread, 138 for example with the matching needle. You'll have much better looking stitches. Don't try to exceed the design of your machine. What your using would be better suited to sewing a saddle or harness. I made a wallet for myself once of 3/4oz bridle and I stitched it on a Randall. (Hook and awl) in 277. I was able to hide the locks, but just barely. A hook and awl machine with brakes can be tuned just right to hide a lock in such large thread in such thin leather, but not a threaded needle machine with spring tensioners.... One small thing that might help out if you're dead set on using 277 and a large needle is to make sure your thread is lubed. Not many threads come pre-lubed. Having your tension set so low on the top is probably what is causing your loose thread on the underside.

It's a leatherworking clicker now Actually I don't think it was a press of any kind prior. likely like the member above said possibly modified from shears. If it were a clicker or press, it would have had a substantial Table of some kind under the pad. It has what appear to be some bolt on angle iron pieces that look to not be part of the original design.

They're pretty hard to find, I don't think they made too many. Did you happen to call Randall? They might have a used one they'd be willing to part with. Chinese make clones of the NSB as well. long before I bought my NSB I thought about buying a Chinese clone (lack of options). I'd consider that a last resort. Bluegrass made a power edger similar to the nsb as well, if you give them a call they might be able to fit you up with one. (Maybe lesser expense).

Probably so. My original reply was mainly in regard to sewing machines. I guess hand stitching is another topic all together.

I consider 277 to be acceptable, but you can say the "vast" majority of stitching done by hand today is done with oversize thread (346/415). I think it's largely due to a lack of leatherworking knowledge. In the past virtually all leatherworkers learned as aprentices or through a Guild of some sort, where they were taught by men who knew the trade proper.. If you look at professionally hand stitched goods from the days of linen, the vast majority of goods were stitched with a much finer thread and more stitches to the inch. 2-3-4 cord. When I see large thread and a low stich to the inch count on a hand make item, I think novice or hobbyist right away. I do a little hand stitching on a few specialty items and use 3 cord, maybe 4 and generally 8 stitches per inch, but on occasion I do stretch it to about 6.

Wiz I get your point, but on the side, I can't say I've ever seen a need for ever sewing with 415 thread. The heaviest thread I've ever used is 277. I've acquired heavier threads with machines on occasion and it usually went in the trash.... Other than maybe some heaving slings or rigging for cargo, etc...I cant understand why anyone would buy a heavier thread?

Well, I think there is a bit more to that....Its' not common to see heavy thread on a wallet because it's nearly impossible to hide the "lock" of the stitch in thin leather wallets. It "is" a little more possible to hide the lock if you use a hook and awl machine, but only just a little easier. I made a couple wallets for myself of thin leathers on a Randall and stitched with 277 poly. Why? It's what I had on the machine at the time. I'd say I was able to hide the lock pretty well in that thin leather.....But a thinner thread would have been better.

It sounds like you have a pretty broad mix of goods to sew. I'd suggest maybe a Seiko cyl arm machine like a CW series. Likely cheaper than a Juki? Don't buy a 45K or a Chinese Clone...If you plan to try to sew everything, you'll need a unison feed machine. I'd be somewhat surprised to hear of handwelted shoes being made in Spain or your part of Europe....I can see shoes still being made that way in The Ukraine or Romania, Bulgaria, etc....$500 a month for a worker there makes it more feasable.

Those 7 series machines are very powerful and can stitch some really heavy materials. I think, perhaps though, it's maybe or maybe not exactly what you were hoping to find? They can stitch heavier leather with a heavier cord, but they are not really well suited to general leatherwork. They're a little more suited to heavy strap work in nylon (such as sewing lifting slings or cargo nets) or other materials. Stitch quality is ok, but not really what I'd consider ideal for quality leather goods. I think the needles are class 7. 7x4, etc. If you sew heavy rigging it's probably up your alley. I can't remember on the outer presser feet as to adjustments though.

yeah that was about my only real bad experience with them....To elaborate they ran on about how 1/8" was within the acceptable limits of a steel rule die and so on, etc. I think I paid around $100 for that particular die. About 4x5" with 2 large 2" slot tubes welded in. Weaver's repair (A cut, clamped in a vise pinch back shut and welded back closed) I think was around $75. Most dies I buy from them are less than $100 and I've bought maybe 140 or so dies from them over a few years, so a couple problem dies weren't so big a deal. Sounds like I may be luckier than most with dies, or perhaps I just know what shops to send what patterns to. I am also EXTREMELY careful with my patterns. Using hard card stock and extreme care in laying out and trimming curves, etc. Anything that has to match or mate up especially I take great care with and make notes pointing that fact out on the patterns.. I certainly don't want tolerances to stack up....I think that may be the crux of many that deal with International? There was a die maker there named Denny that was capable of making some excellent dies if you communicated to him exactly what you wanted. I don't know if he still works there or not? I am talking full height steel rule die stock here. Are you using full height dies or 3/4"?

Ah, I also forgot to mention....The USPS is photographing all of the mail now. The letter you sent to your neighbor not only has to go through detectors, but now has to be photographed. (Another operation they can't do at your local PO). Somewhere in some dark electronic storage device is a picture of your letter addressed to Joe Smith on Apple Tree Lane, Somewhere. WA. Somehow I have a feeling our everyday life wont go back to how it was in 1921.....At least if I spent some time playing with my old rusty leather machinery I can delude myself on occasion into thinking it is 1921....

Didn't we just have this conversation a week ago?

Ok so it's an older post, but has been revived here. I think maybe you forgot the Anthrax scare we had when 'Lil Bush was in office? All the mail has to go to a central processing and through detectors. They don't have that kind of machinery at your local one employee Post Office.

If your shuttlepoint is worn down you can build it back up a bit with some solder and reshape. Either Tin (lead free) or Silver Solder. Silver solder would take years to wear back down unless you use it daily. I've seen Campbell/Randall shuttles built up with it and they work fine.