Cumberland Highpower

I have a Randall leather burnishing machine and I'm curious if anyone has used one and what they thought about it? It's a green(ish) hammer painted burnisher made from heavy castings and has the ability to tilt to the side. Has anyone here used one much? I'm thinking to put the one I have up for sale. They must be pretty uncommon as I've only seen a couple? It looks very similar overall to another very old burnisher (maybe turn of the last century) I have, the old one can't tilt and has a fairly large wooden head made from what appears to be cocobolo?

You know, I've been running stitchers for almost 20 years now and I can't seem to wrap my head around a reverse....Even when I run something modern like and Adler 205 I never use it.I guess old habits die hard!

Hmm... Well it's not all that uncommon for a threaded needle type machine to have an issue with the lock like that. In the past when I first started I had issues with Adler 205's and a Luberto Classic doing the same thing. The problem is that when you have a spring loaded tensioner (No brakes) and a threaded needle that's how it will be. You'll need to use a smaller thread. 277 and even 207 is too large for a machine stitched wallet in 3/4oz leather. go to a smaller thread, 138 for example with the matching needle. You'll have much better looking stitches. Don't try to exceed the design of your machine. What your using would be better suited to sewing a saddle or harness. I made a wallet for myself once of 3/4oz bridle and I stitched it on a Randall. (Hook and awl) in 277. I was able to hide the locks, but just barely. A hook and awl machine with brakes can be tuned just right to hide a lock in such large thread in such thin leather, but not a threaded needle machine with spring tensioners.... One small thing that might help out if you're dead set on using 277 and a large needle is to make sure your thread is lubed. Not many threads come pre-lubed. Having your tension set so low on the top is probably what is causing your loose thread on the underside.

It's a leatherworking clicker now Actually I don't think it was a press of any kind prior. likely like the member above said possibly modified from shears. If it were a clicker or press, it would have had a substantial Table of some kind under the pad. It has what appear to be some bolt on angle iron pieces that look to not be part of the original design.

They're pretty hard to find, I don't think they made too many. Did you happen to call Randall? They might have a used one they'd be willing to part with. Chinese make clones of the NSB as well. long before I bought my NSB I thought about buying a Chinese clone (lack of options). I'd consider that a last resort. Bluegrass made a power edger similar to the nsb as well, if you give them a call they might be able to fit you up with one. (Maybe lesser expense).

Probably so. My original reply was mainly in regard to sewing machines. I guess hand stitching is another topic all together.

I consider 277 to be acceptable, but you can say the "vast" majority of stitching done by hand today is done with oversize thread (346/415). I think it's largely due to a lack of leatherworking knowledge. In the past virtually all leatherworkers learned as aprentices or through a Guild of some sort, where they were taught by men who knew the trade proper.. If you look at professionally hand stitched goods from the days of linen, the vast majority of goods were stitched with a much finer thread and more stitches to the inch. 2-3-4 cord. When I see large thread and a low stich to the inch count on a hand make item, I think novice or hobbyist right away. I do a little hand stitching on a few specialty items and use 3 cord, maybe 4 and generally 8 stitches per inch, but on occasion I do stretch it to about 6.

Wiz I get your point, but on the side, I can't say I've ever seen a need for ever sewing with 415 thread. The heaviest thread I've ever used is 277. I've acquired heavier threads with machines on occasion and it usually went in the trash.... Other than maybe some heaving slings or rigging for cargo, etc...I cant understand why anyone would buy a heavier thread?

Well, I think there is a bit more to that....Its' not common to see heavy thread on a wallet because it's nearly impossible to hide the "lock" of the stitch in thin leather wallets. It "is" a little more possible to hide the lock if you use a hook and awl machine, but only just a little easier. I made a couple wallets for myself of thin leathers on a Randall and stitched with 277 poly. Why? It's what I had on the machine at the time. I'd say I was able to hide the lock pretty well in that thin leather.....But a thinner thread would have been better.

It sounds like you have a pretty broad mix of goods to sew. I'd suggest maybe a Seiko cyl arm machine like a CW series. Likely cheaper than a Juki? Don't buy a 45K or a Chinese Clone...If you plan to try to sew everything, you'll need a unison feed machine. I'd be somewhat surprised to hear of handwelted shoes being made in Spain or your part of Europe....I can see shoes still being made that way in The Ukraine or Romania, Bulgaria, etc....$500 a month for a worker there makes it more feasable.

Those 7 series machines are very powerful and can stitch some really heavy materials. I think, perhaps though, it's maybe or maybe not exactly what you were hoping to find? They can stitch heavier leather with a heavier cord, but they are not really well suited to general leatherwork. They're a little more suited to heavy strap work in nylon (such as sewing lifting slings or cargo nets) or other materials. Stitch quality is ok, but not really what I'd consider ideal for quality leather goods. I think the needles are class 7. 7x4, etc. If you sew heavy rigging it's probably up your alley. I can't remember on the outer presser feet as to adjustments though.

yeah that was about my only real bad experience with them....To elaborate they ran on about how 1/8" was within the acceptable limits of a steel rule die and so on, etc. I think I paid around $100 for that particular die. About 4x5" with 2 large 2" slot tubes welded in. Weaver's repair (A cut, clamped in a vise pinch back shut and welded back closed) I think was around $75. Most dies I buy from them are less than $100 and I've bought maybe 140 or so dies from them over a few years, so a couple problem dies weren't so big a deal. Sounds like I may be luckier than most with dies, or perhaps I just know what shops to send what patterns to. I am also EXTREMELY careful with my patterns. Using hard card stock and extreme care in laying out and trimming curves, etc. Anything that has to match or mate up especially I take great care with and make notes pointing that fact out on the patterns.. I certainly don't want tolerances to stack up....I think that may be the crux of many that deal with International? There was a die maker there named Denny that was capable of making some excellent dies if you communicated to him exactly what you wanted. I don't know if he still works there or not? I am talking full height steel rule die stock here. Are you using full height dies or 3/4"?

Ah, I also forgot to mention....The USPS is photographing all of the mail now. The letter you sent to your neighbor not only has to go through detectors, but now has to be photographed. (Another operation they can't do at your local PO). Somewhere in some dark electronic storage device is a picture of your letter addressed to Joe Smith on Apple Tree Lane, Somewhere. WA. Somehow I have a feeling our everyday life wont go back to how it was in 1921.....At least if I spent some time playing with my old rusty leather machinery I can delude myself on occasion into thinking it is 1921....

Didn't we just have this conversation a week ago?

Ok so it's an older post, but has been revived here. I think maybe you forgot the Anthrax scare we had when 'Lil Bush was in office? All the mail has to go to a central processing and through detectors. They don't have that kind of machinery at your local one employee Post Office.

If your shuttlepoint is worn down you can build it back up a bit with some solder and reshape. Either Tin (lead free) or Silver Solder. Silver solder would take years to wear back down unless you use it daily. I've seen Campbell/Randall shuttles built up with it and they work fine.

Tandy=overpriced China hobby store. 20 years ago when I was first toying with leather I bought screw in tubes from Tandy. I believe they were .99 each... I was using them in a press I rigged up, and they often broke. approx 10 tandy tubes for every osborne screw tube. Next time I ordered tubes I asked, where they were made and he said "Taiwan or China" When I grumbled, he said hey now, well sell allot of these!

Hi Jim, thanks for the link. You must use quite a few dies if you drove to MX just to meet a die maker. What other die makers have you used?

Looks pretty solid. What did you have in mind price wise? Some guys love them. Real hard to find leather needles for. Overall kind of fading out of popularity, most who would be interested have bought Chinese made machines these days. I saw one sell at an auction here in OH a couple weeks back at a leathershop auction. $1325. I'd say that's a good market price to gauge yours? Did you have any extras to go with yours?

Well it sort of has been done. I have a shoe finisher/lineshaft type deal and it has a cast iron 'lobed" wheel of some kind that has a canvas jacket over it. That qualifies as a burnisher of sorts. (I think?) I also have both a bench Randall Burnisher and a Galli FCE that has wheels that are made from alternating layers of canvas and leather. Dikman I don't know if aluminum is a good idea. Aluminum is soft and can rub off onto the leather. Damp leather might be ok, but if it were somewhat less than soft it would make black on your leather from the aluminum rubbing off...

I'm wondering if Campbell-Randall is still in business? Sent a couple emails and messages via the website over the past month with no replies. Called yesterday and must have been closed? Am I jumping to conclusions or is something odd afoot?

i found long ago elm made a good hard burnishing head. oak seemed the least stable. maybe the grain structure?

Nearly all of my dies are from International. Great prices and quick service. Quality is generally quite good. If you have a die that needs to be very precise though, go to Weaver or Texas. Weaver probably makes the most precise dies I've seen, but are usually priced 3x International Die. International makes good dies, but sometimes can be out of spec. Once they made one for me and refused to fix it as they said 1/8" out of spec was within their standards. I sent it to Weaver and they fixed it. I laughed a little when Weaver Refused to repaint it. Said no way they were putting their paint on an International Die International also sometimes does not make the slots they weld into the dies properly. I have 3 dies with pairs of slots in them and the openings on top are smaller than the cutting end. I have to drive the punchouts out from the top with a screwdriver after every cut. Sucks, but...well, that's 3 dies out of many. Yes I'll order many a more die from International. I am just letting you know what to occasionally expect. If you order 10 dies from international and 2 are out of spec, you still come out ahead because of the great price and quick turn around.

That's somewhat different than what a HO employee told me once when I inquired. I was told the leather they sell as "holster" leather is tooling leather that has slightly less oil added. Otherwise identical. I use allot of HO leather here and have bought both for several years. I do find the "holster" leather to be a bit on the harder side in tooling and sewing, likely as they said, from less oil added after tanning. I am being very critical in comparison, It's not significantly different, but I can feel a little difference, I am surprised you don't?

Perhaps you might want to give a little more thought into that. I've been working leather as a primary income for about 15 years. Like everyone else I started on a real budget ($200). I looked at a Boss back 20 years ago or so when they came out. They do work and are easy to use, although I did not find the stitch quality to be very acceptable though. The Cowboy Outlaw is probably as good or better than a Boss. Weaver Leather here in OH bought the Luberto Cub and they are sold competitively. I would go for the Cub as it's mostly made in USA rather than a made in PRC machine. Now, I'd have to say buying a machine with triple feed may or may not be advisable. If you work leather exclusively, a hook and awl machine is what you need. Absolutely beautiful stitch quality. Yes, old, hard to find, etc. Probably harder still to find in OZ. I have owned just about every machine sold here in the States (except a Pearson). Right now I have 10 hook and awl machines and exactly one threaded needle machine (205-64). At one time I had a 205-370 and a Luberto Classic (Basically a Pearson w/a rotary hook). The Luberto had a jump foot and needle feed, while the 205-370 was triple feed. I much preferred the Luberto machine and sold the Adler. You really don't need triple feed for leather...And sometimes all that "stuff" gets in the way as well as marking up the leather.