Cumberland Highpower

I recently purchased a real clean 205-64 and gave it a short spin in my shop this week. It sews very well without issues, but I notice the shuttle hook when sewing doesn't quite retract out of the way of the needle when the needle is on the way "down" and might be a very light touch involved. When the needle bottoms out and the hook comes forward it catches the loop great, without any issue and stitches just fine. I cant' really say it's a problem, but I am curious.....I've owned both a 205-370 and 205-25 in the past and I do remember the 205-370 shuttle hook rotates completely out of the way when the needle comes down and no chance of touching on the downstroke whatsoever. The 205-64 doesn't rotate the shuttle hook nearly as far counter-clockwise (needle tip clears though the relief cut in the shuttle hook right behind the point) but clockwise the shuttle does come to rest at the same exact clockwise position as the 205-370.... Being a 205 series machine with the same shuttle I'm a little perplexed? I'd assume the 205 series should all function identically? I am wondering if there is a shuttle hook timing/adjustment as well as needle bar timing? Besides that minor puzzlement, I actually can say in honesty I prefer this 205-64 to the 205-370 I had. There is far less "Stuff" around the needle and the end of the machine head. Overall I can see things quite a bit better....Maybe I'm biased as I have 8 hook and awl machines in my shop, I don't know...Anyway.... Does anyone happen to have a manual/service manual for the 205-64 or link to one?

Hello KGG thanks for your post. I appreciate your offer, although I believe your feet are too small. I have an Adler 69 class free arm machine setup with the exact pattern/type of roller foot as yours shown. Those feet are about 1/2 the size of what I need for the 205-64. I think the 205-64 takes a jumbo version of this foot.

Constabulary thanks for the reply. I checked out the link you mentioned and I'm not 100% certain if it's the right style foot for the 205-64. The machine I have has a square surface where the presser foot bolts up. (A round shaft machined flat on 3 surfaces). The feet shown on the expired ebay listing look more like a clamp on deal for a round shaft. Maybe the 45k is a little different? I'm wondering if the presser foot shaft could be reversed/flipped to put a smooth round on the bottom? (I might take a look later today) I guess I could always fabricate one, but would rather purchase a factory made piece. (Less work, not enough time here ).

Hello I'm curious if anyone here might know where I can find a roller presser foot for an Adler 205-64? Seems like I remember the feet from the 105-64 might fit up? Maybe some of the Chinese clone feet?? Ideally I'd like to find one that is smooth and NOT knurled.

jcuk you're right on all points. I would really hate to see them go under or stop making leather tools....It's a tough market these days and overall less demand for leatherworking tools I guess...

I buy Fenice and Uniters. The Fenice can be power burnished. The Uniters to a degree also. But don't get carried away. When I say power burnished I mean when using a FC2E. I've actually used quite a bit of Weaver's edge paint in the past, I think LCI is the supplier. It's not a latex edge product like the 2 above, more of an acrylic I guess but for certain applications, I found it gave much better coverage on one coat than the 2 above. It's nowhere as durable though.

Thanks for the posting Mike. I was kinda looking for an off the shelf supplier rather than a custom made leather.

I've done some business in 2020 with them. To be honest I'd almost not be surprised if they tank and go under. CSO's quality seems to be taking endless nosedives. 20 years ago I noticed quality wasn't what it was in the past. now days in 2021 I notice it's not what it was in 2001.....

Guess none to be found these days?

I like your project but I have to ask, is it really worth the amount of work considering what a good used machine can sell for? Are you just into restoring old skivers?

I use those machines. I'd say they probably would work for you so long as your strap/belt is thick enough to support itself and you keep a sharp blade against the leather. I've edged chrome-oil leather sewn in layers but that's a bit firmer than some chrome you might be working?

They're a pretty good splitter. I suspect standard 6" blades from Randall will fit or can be made to fit. I have one of these Fendas that I used a few times that was factory built as a motorized splitter, no cranking required. I used it for something specific until I acquired a UA and now just collects dust...

Wow that's pretty neat. I haven't seen one like it, but for some reason it seems to look like something made by Randall rather than C-B. Maybe 40's or 50's vintage?

I have a 5hp and 3hp rotary generators in use. They'll operate a clicker just fine. My Atoms work as they should. One of my atoms has a 2hp motor on it and many times I've only used the generator to power it up and then switch it off. The machine will operate at 2/3 power on single phase without the generator. 3ph clickers are mostly factory 1hp I believe. Most clickers are available in single phase new, but when you shop used it's tougher to find single phase machines. You can buy a single phase motor w/capacitor for Atoms and Fipi machines, but they're a tough motor to find in the USA for any kind of reasonable price.... A rotary generator is your best option, they're easy to find used and not hard to wire up. Clickers start up with a heavy load I and believe a static cap inverter or VFD would never cut it.

Hmm, that's a tough one. Looks like maybe rollers from an old 1861 randall w/some other parts? Unless it's something dear to you I'd really say honestly it's not worth trying to put together. Even if it were a complete creaser of that old of a design, It would be worth maybe $200?

I'm curious if anyone knows of a supplier of 7/8oz veg tanned pebble grain leather, preferably in black? Thanks!

34 views and none tried?

I am curious if anyone has tried or is running S twist linen in a Peerless 30 Stitcher? If you have what were the results?

Hello yes they did make the 16" version at the end. It's what they were selling at Weaver before the new ECOs... Here is a link. They were 16" depth machines. https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/65-8080/weaver-205-sewing-machine-/pr_51532

CDTHAYER, The 205s did come in 2 different throat depths. The earlier version was painted with grey hammer paint and the later deeper throat was painted white. Vernon Weaver claimed that Weaver Leather pressured Adler to revise the 205 to make it deeper. (Well who's to say if they did or didnt). They sold them for a couple years until they were discontinued. If you want a deep one I believe they were all made in the Czech Republic (White paint). Probably changed castings when they moved production. If you do allot of tarp work specifically you should look for a used pfaff or juki. I've seen pfaff 145's quite cheap. $200-400. 1245s seem to go around 500++Craigslist generally has a few. Check auctions too. www.auctionzip.com

I'd go for the Juki. The adler 205 is good as well, but they had 2 different throat depths. (Weaver sold both the grey shallow and later deeper throat model before they were discontinued). I've used both and actually prefer the Juki, but not by a huge margin. It may make a difference for canvas/tarp work. I would NOT buy any Chinese clone. If nothing else, they'd be harder to get rid of when you dont want it..... If you want to compare tools it's like comparing SK to...Harbor Freight. Those Adler ECO referenced above are pretty neat and have lots of good depth/clearance. They also have a needle Pos. System...But are like 7-8k new and Kinda hard to justify unless you plan to run it all day every day. I believe the Juki 441 is still made, and at least the last new one I saw was made in Japan.

Thanks for the replies gents. Both types, the nylon and poly are right hand twist. maybe I need to order up some left and see how it runs. It would appear to slightly untwist it on the bottom as I have it set up. Big Sioux I appreciate the input as well, you're probably correct on the right hand twist being the specification, maybe some minor adjustments are in order.

I am working on a Champion Peerless 30 for a project. Finally got it set up and stitched some with poly then switched over to linen 4 cord w/ liquid wax. Everything looks great with the poly but I notice the underside thread has a bit of an odd look to it. Are these machines set up for a specific twist on the shuttle?

A few years ago I moved an Atom Se25 in my shop and it's a heavy machine... I think a FIPI is a clone of an Atom? Anyway, There should be some threaded bolt holes on each side of the clicker near the surface of the "table" Those are for bolting a lifting sling to the machine. It's just a piece of chain with a flat metal plate on each end with holes drilled for bolts to pass through. I think you could rig one up yourself pretty easily. I actually had one (Or should say I still have one). Meaning I have no idea where it's at.....Lost but present somewhere on my property DONT pick it up by the head/swing arm if you can get out of it. I've done it before on other machines but looking back I wouldn't do it again Other than that, once you get a skid/pallet under your machine you can move it that way. I happen to have a steel base with rubber feet that came with mine that I left on it. (I think it's a type of sea/shipping skid with tunnels in it for forks). I didn't use a forklift to move that machine. I rented a "Super Bobcat" the heaviest, biggest bobcat/skid-steer I could get. Cost me about $100 to rent a day with pallet forks. Just went REAL SLOW......The clicker was heavy and it did lift the back wheels of the bobcat a couple times. I'd suggest renting one of those Bobcats w/forks and just go real slow. I specifically rented one as i had to drive over some grass yard and through a door only 9' high... Forklift might struggle a bit with that. Anyway just my experience/suggestion, yours may vary considerably. Here is a PDF link for an ATOM manual. It shows how to sling it up about 1/2 the way through. https://www.kempler.com/sites/default/files/manufacturer/docs/catalog/Atom Series SE Clicking Press With Turning Arm Manual_0.pdf

Hello guys thanks for the replies. Rocky Aussie it's a USMC. (United Shoe Machinery Company). Made in the US. Pretty old machine made back when. (Guessing maybe 20s-30s, could be older). It looks like a USMC Model A to me, but the plate on it says model "82" Matt this USMC is set up for lineshaft like most machines of it's era..Has a large cast Iron flywheel that should be powered by a flat leather drive belt from the ceiling or floor... I myself also have a Fortuna (UA) and it's a little smaller compared to the USMC...I would say the USMC take more a good bit more heft to turn by hand...Every function of the machine is driven by the single large cast iron drive wheel. He's Amish so he's only permitted to have air or lineshaft power in his shop, so it's why we're working on this project. I think he's hoping we can use a large air motor to avoid building extensions to his lineshaft/perkins diesel. We tried a 6hp air motor but it seemed to stall out. Even if we build onto the lineshaft, we have no idea what rpm it needs as input just yet.