Cumberland Highpower

I found this on Kijiji (Apparently still a thing!) It might still be available, I don't know. Been on there 29 days. Juki LU-562 Walking Foot Sewing Machine | Hobbies & Crafts | City of Toronto | Kijiji Classifieds Has a cheap servo and speed reducer on it. Would probably give you pretty good service for the cost. You're in Toronto, right? That could do allot of work, backpacks, etc. A mid size cylinder arm machine would be a little more versatile down the road, but they cost more.

Maybe you didn't have your coffee yet Bob? I just barely had mine.... The swing away roller guide pictured on your website for the CB4500 is adjustable front to back. You see the Phillips screw that is holding down a piece of aluminum angle? loosen the screw and the little angled piece can move fore and aft, allowing the roller to set in any position fore and aft. I have the same upper guide piece on one of my union lockstitches, and adjusted it 3/16" on Thursday. Kind of a bummer the CB3200 doesn't have a place to mount a drop down guide....I'm a little surprised to hear that part, considering the era we live in? If I had been a purchaser of a CB3200 and found out It couldn't take a drop down roller guide, I'd probably feel a little, I don't know, short-changed? Not directing that at you personally, I just mean it generally. Those CB's are sold around the world by lots of vendors. It's probably a real short list of NEW industrial unison feed machines out there that don't come drilled/tapped for a drop down guide of some sort....

You know, that's exactly what I bought back in my "youth" when getting into leatherwork. An arbor press and then made my own additional tooling on a $30 garage sale drill press.. Later on I bought a few more out of the old Lionel Train shop. Think I paid an average of $20 for older US presses, really upgrading my capabilities! lol My first piece of real machinery was a stitcher. When I was 24 I used my old VW as collateral at a bank and borrowed $1200 for a Randall. ( I still have and actually use it). I didn't have a clicker for another 5 years....Even though I was working pretty much full time. I would order/ship my leather to another shop that would die cut everything on my dies for $20/hr. Worked out. When I got married I suddenly had help available and bought a clicker! The clicker actually paid for itself in the first year. (As a bit of "unique" fact, the hired machine that cut my parts for those years belonged to Harry Weaver until he died, father of Paul Weaver of Weaver Leather fame). OP keep your needs simple though...There is a machine for just about everything. The OP will definitely buy a machine, it's only a matter of time like said above. Canada has that site Kijiji don't they? I used to see some really good deals there. for bags, a basic unison feed machine will work well and not hard to find. I'd think $500 Canuk could surely buy something? That's probably a weeks worth of bags/project work to cover it.

That's a pretty hard type of guide to find anymore. They used to be fairly common back in the days of the hook and awl hot wax machines. I like that style and use them on a couple machines still. Here in the US we have Toledo Industrial Sewing machine, in Toledo, that stocks that type for your Chinese clone. img_0173.jpg (800×600) $95 US plus shipping. This type will fit your machine, as its basically for any Juki TSC 441 clone. (CB3200, CB4500, ETC). The Cowboy outlaw guide also fits your CB3200 from what I've read. If I were you, i'd order the type from Toledo Sewing machine, only becuase it allows some adjustment of the guide, front to back. Every machine is built slightly different and you'll find yourself wanting to adjust/fine tune where the roller sits in relation to the feeding of the machine. The Outlaw guide does not allow for this type of adjustment without moving the whole guide and even then no guarantee the slots cut into it allow enough front to back movement. As an option, you could by a drop roller guide from your own "country" the EU. I just bought a guide for an Adler made in Grande Italia! Better quality than a Chicom guide. I believe your price for this type would be E53. I paid considerably more, but I also paid for Fed EX international express....I believe your shipping charge is also 6 euro if I remember correctly? The distributor I bought from uses "stripe" for credit cards or wire transfer for larger purchases in the thousands. Tell them you're a business and you get a better price. The company that I bought from is Silac, based in Italy, but they do have a French/English/Spanish/ROmanian language websites. www.silacsew.com. (.com/fr) NS/127 | Suspended Edge Guide with Long Pin, Suitable for Most Machines # 6764/07-01 (Made in Italy) | Silacsew You would also need a mounting bracket for your specific machine. The CB3200 is a Juki TSC-441 clone, so you'd need a Juki Bracket. The guides I brought up are made by SA.PE or Ditta SAPE, in Italy. Perhaps you do not like this type of guide? They make a WHOLE range of attachments, but SA.PE seems to operate the old fashioned Italian way, so the distributor is better service. SA.PE does have a catalog online but it's a dated affair. They may make the type you're looking for as well, you'll have to find the catalog online and read through it.

That's too much work IH460. You pretty much have 3 options on linen: 1) just cut it off where the stitch ends with a razor blade or fine tip clippers 2) When you come to the end of your work, make a stitch to the right or left and then a stitch back where you came from. (creating a small J pattern in your stitching. Thats' the most common way to end a long stitch on a Hook/Awl machine. 3) lift the presser foot and fudge/pull your work back one stitch and then make another stitch as close as you can to your existing stitching.. That's the same as reversing a stitch on a threaded needle machine. The wax on your thread will help lock it in place over time.

I have yet to really see a quality machine made in China. They're produced in kind of a "that's good enough for export" concept. But, China could very easily produce very high quality machines if they wanted to. The Japanese and Germans have a quality and detail oriented culture. China's is a "how cheap can we do it" culture. America is somewhere in the middle! Allot of the machines made in China are produced by the same plant and just badged as the reseller requires. Overall I find Chinese machines to come from the factories with the mechanical tolerances of a worn out version of what it's cloned from. Looked at a Weaver 303 and a Weaver 205 last week (Made in China for Weaver) and within 2 seconds I could feel the lesser quality vs the original respective Japanese and German machines. The 40yr old Nakajima 180l-2 (Weaver 303) that I paid $10 for at an auction and my 30 year old Adler 205 (Weaver 205) are both tighter and smoother in operation than their respective clones. For what quality old machines sell for on the used market, I'd just look for a quality German/USA/Japan machine of your needs. I'd go so far as to recommend heavier weight oil for Chinese clones, it will tend to quiet them down somewhat.

Looking for strap end punches for Galli/Bibo cartridges. Round/taper/point, etc. Specifically for 1" and 1.25" straps.

I'm sure you could design a stitcher to simply accept a 1lb spool as a bobbin. Therefore, no bobbin required! lol The challenge would be speed of operation though. With so much thread moving through space and time, looping around the massive shuttle, you probably would have a pretty low SPM, defeating the whole idea. Would require lubed thread for sure, but could be done. I hate winding bobbins....... There's a bit of a trend that's phasing out sewing as an operation in manufacturing, outside of clothing. Molded parts, ultrasonic welding, adhesives, etc. Your 2024 Chrysler might have a good deal of stitching in the interior, but I'm guessing your 2054 Geely SUV won't? Probably not enough future demand for new sewing technology I think? Just some thoughts.

I don't know the exact model of the burnisher in your photo, but the wheel is made by Galli in Italy. Look up Galli SPA on Google. I have a Randall/Campbell VSB and Galli FCE/FCE+2 burnishers and they use the same wheels. Randall/Campbell VSB's use Galli wheels as well. You can buy a VSB from Randall/Campbell or make your own burnisher if you're handy. But, you'd need to either order the arbor for the wheel from Randall/Campbell or machine your own. The cover plate that JD Bodger mentioned for the VSB is actually a Bosch made clear plastic cover for a router table. Randall/Campbell builds the VSB on variable speed servo sewing machine motors, but you can use about anything you desire. I'd strongly recommend just buying one from Randall/Campbell so you can get to work.

Wiz thanks for the ideas. I spent most of the afternoon going over it, and somewhat to my surprise I fixed the problem. I had torn this machine down and adjusted/timed it years ago and went over it again when setting it back up. The whole problem was just a minor adjustment in the feed timing. Minor as in almost nothing. I guess the needle was flexing just a little too much before the presser foot would lift. I could hardly notice it earlier.

Today I threaded up a UL that I have kept for many years as a spare. Sews great, beautiful stitch, etc. I went over it adjusting/tightening checking everything, timing etc. Seems to have an issue I can't seem to fully correct though....It does not track in a straight line, rather pushing the work to the left as it operates. I actually have to use a bit of force to keep it against the guide......And end up fighting the machine a bit. More than on any other machine I have. I checked the needle/awl bar, it appears to be feeding very squarely relative to the rest of the machine. Presser foot force isn't excessive. I checked the needle plate for flatness and the fit of the presser foot against it. Even went so far as to hone them together under presser foot pressure. They're airtight mates. I had initially thought perhaps an out of square presser foot was the culprit. The amount of work deflection stays constant regardless of what stitch spacing i set, same as well regardless of running nylon or poly. I cannot seem to find any adjustments to correct for this deflection, anyone that operates a UL have any ideas?

I'm glad to hear you recd. your parts. To be honest i'm here for the same reason. I can't seem to get a reply from Silac, and was left actually wondering if they're a real company. How did they bill you?

Josh both of my 1889s have 3/4" shafts. So it's a no go for your 1" bore embosser wheels. Of course if you have an older Randall or a newer made machine your results can still vary. Maybe a cheap sintered bronze bushing as an adapter could help you out with the newer wheels?

I think he's asking about the +1 rollers that fit on the end of an 1889 creaser. Hard to say though if that's the model though since he didn't say. Maybe Campbell Bosworth (Randall-Campbell) or Randall International sold some other creaser models since the 1889? I have an 1889 here I can check shaft size on today if I remember to actually do it. lol

I'm a little surprised to hear that. How come? Does it have something to do with twisting the thread when making chain loops?

Is it an 1889 creaser or something newer?

Looking for a used drop down guide for an Adler 205. Used, good quality. An OEM Adler guide or Weaver made, etc. Might be interested in a Chinese clone of a Weaver guide as well. Only looking from forum members who have some activity. If you're a guy who knows of a guy that has one for sale and here is his email...I already know where that's going. lol

I do pretty much the same thing. I leave 132s set up for 1.25 and 1.5, and another to swap shafts on odd sizes. Sieck is kind of like the EU's Campbell-Randall (I think a bigger concern). They might be able to help you out, but you might be left feeling "Seick" from the customer service.... I once tried to buy a rebuilt machine from them. After dozens of emails/calls back to Seick I gave up and a month later one came up here in the States. Bought that, bid on a contract, got it, made the goods, got paid after 60 days, spent the money and forgot about it....Then after a bit longer time passed, a Seick Rep sent me a freight quote via email and just put in the header "Sorry we've been busy." lol Anyway good luck on your quest. I really doubt anyone stocks a similar blade though, as far as I've seen most any modern machine and Chinese junk all use copies of metric blades.

I'm in the for evening here, so i can't measure blades to see what model strap cutter you have, so I'll ask: What strap cutter do you have? Is it a newer Italian made R20 machine or an older Randal 132? I use the 132's here. Used to have a R20... Different blades and traded it off. I don't think anyone else stocks these knives at any kind of reasonable price...I'd imagine Randall/Campbell in Texas probably has a treasure chest full of old stock r132 blades made in 1959, 1965 or 1972..... I can't really see cost being a huge issue, they're like $13. If you're cutting fine lace Maybe I could see a little pucker. It's possible a supplier in the EU could have something. Sieck of Germany maybe. Of course I'm guessing that you have a 132, just because they're pretty common and a little cheaper to buy. But it's just a guess. You can resharpen the blades a few times. Randall/Campbell will do it for you or you can buy/build your own machine for it. You have to be careful with maintaining the bevels on the blades or you'll run into other issues. if the primary bevel (Original bevel of the knife) gets too wide relative to where it meets your secondary bevel (the fine cutting bevel) you'll have issues with the machine feeding the work/leather. So a real light sharpening is adequate so long as you dont have chips/nicks. Those blades are pretty good steel and can take allot of use before a sharpening is really needed. I sent a few sets off to be sharpened several years back and still have a full set unused.

I've got a Sutton finisher with a canvas dust bag, It's filthy and smells like 40 years of sanded shoes....I vacuumed it, but would like to wash it. Has anyone ever tried to do so? Think it would work in a washing machine on a short delicate cycle? Someone told me to take it to a laundromat that has commercial machines without a center agitator. Any thoughts? I think I'm starting to develop a minor allergy to leather dust, anything to help.

You've got allot of good answers so far, but I wouldn't use any of the Barge products. It's pretty potent fume wise, even if they claim it's less so than others. Any time I tried to use either type I ended up feeling a little sick from it. (Nausea, dizziness). Not much, but noticeable. Dap Weldwood is somewhat better, at least it's what I use. The Latex Weldwood is even better if you're working with leather and you can even thin it down. The latex version is pretty safe to use and I get about 50% more coverage compared to the neoprene base glue per gallon. I've also used it in glue machines with decent success. The Latex isn't so good if you're gluing rubber to leather though. It doesn't need as much ventilation to use either.

I happened to come into one of these machines. Is this still something that anyone uses today? I don't really have a use for it. Guess it looks like you could run a basketweave pattern right across your skirts? lol

Actually, your side looks ok to me. From the photo it looks like an A grade piece that came from SLc with a couple added pallet rack scuffs and a little short term warehouse dusting. Normal in the trade to a degree.......... The honest truth, is that ALL leather isn't as good as it was 10 years ago. Depending on what you make, HO leather is the best on the market. Its' firm, consistent in weight, has been rolled (having a smooth surface) and takes dye and water very well. (Evenly). It also dries quicker than most other leathers. They also tend to grade it better when splitting. In this country, Only Wickett and craig is close. W&c isn't as firm and tends to stretch more. I'd say the worst downhill slide is that Chahin that Weaver sells. Before covid it was ok. Now I'm looking elsewhere. Veg tanned leather tends to have blems, scars, wrinkles, etc. After you use a few thousand sides, you'll realize what you received is actually looking pretty good. Bellies are filler/junk/liner, shoulders are used for items that take the neck wrinkles well. Your bend is usually pretty clean, maybe a brand. HO looks at the bend area first, then shoulder. Weight wise, I think they allow 1/2oz +/- I haven't shopped at SLC, but I do find that price rather high. Wholesale pricing should be around $250. When you dye/work/tool this leather the looks will be more to your liking. You mentioned you didn't like the finish? It doesn't have a finish....That will be your job. If you don't like this piece, you probably should look into a different tannage/leather, something chrome tanned with an aniline top coat. No other tannery will produce a cleaner, smoother veg tanned leather at any sort of affordable price than HO

He's still in business, called me today!

I'm not sure if he's still in business? I mailed in an order/parts request for some Landis 16 parts over a month ago. Didn't hear back so I called and left messages a couple times...No reply as yet. I hope it's just an oversight on his part and nothing worse.