Cumberland Highpower

Some good looking knives. I'm going to be honest, your knives look great. You need an equally superb sheath to match. A hook and awl machine is what you really need for a quality product. Yes, I read your limitations/location/Euros, etc. Europe doesn't seem to be a great place to find harness stitchers either.... the Adler 105 on your list would work for you. Make sure you buy a 105-64 and not some other sub-variant like a 105-25 or 105-5. Dont' get carried away on thread size. Seems like the D point needles sew best on that machine. it throws the same quality stitch as a Juki 441 or Adler 205, etc.

A direct drive machine is a disaster if you're Amish....Real hard to mount an air motor. Of course they seem to be able to punch out a hole in any machine and bolt on a pulley one way or another eventually. If you're looking at a good quality machine I wouldn't worry too much. Motors last a LONG time. If you wear a motor out, you've made enough money with the machine you can justify purchasing a new replacement.

Looking for an extra machine. Seiko CH8B, Consew 756R or Ferdco 900c. (I'd probably the rarity here and say I'd prefer a 900b or a 900c).

This is the same UK that wanted to outlaw paperclips in the workplace (dangerous) and kitchen knives with points....Right?

Balistol. Just wipe a film occasionally. it will neutralize sweat. Not harmful to you or leather.

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$400 is probably where I'd start.

That's a pretty awesome find. I've never seen a manual for a Champion. I can see why it lists such heavy thread/cord being a shoe stitcher. I have a Peerless 30 I modified to sew a special item and I often run 3 and 4 cord on it. Works great and stitches beautifully with even these lighter weight cords. I'm using Randall and UL needles in mine.

Looking for a Consew 756R (Japanese made) or Seiko Ch8 Let me know what you might have and your location/asking price thanks!

Constabulary here in the US we have something you might not have in Germany? Auctions. It I attend an auction I can buy machinery often times for cheap. I think I paid $200 for my best UL machine. Paid $20 for a Brother BAS 341 Programmable stitcher last month that works great. Sometimes I buy new when I am in the itch for it, but rarely.

It's good you've had sucess with your purchases. I've heard many complaints over the years about the UL machines, but I've never seen it I have a pair I run 6 mo out of the year (Cold months) and I've never had to replace much of anything on them I can remember, they're quite tight machines still (I think years ago a thread lock?) Never had one go out of adjustment either. I think the UL machines were designed for items that were generally of a constant nature, thickness/etc. I believe the people who have problems have used worn out machines and don't realize it.

Bladegrinder I find allot of Electronic goods sold under the Panasonic name are made in Japan or countries other than China. I tend to buy Panasonic for this reason when I have time to shop. (for example my tv and laptop are Japanese) I generally avoid Walmart except when I need some bread and I'm in town. I have a throw away type phone from Dollar General and it's made in Malaysia. (Probably less Chinese).

I don't have a single Chinese machine or tool in my shop, either shop. Yes some things are unavoidable to a degree, like a Chinese made bearing here or there hidden away from sight, etc. Chinese chemicals and materials used to some degree etc. When I have a choice I take the better option. I asked if the Consew 2050 was made in Japan (Not unrealistic question, given many Consews were/are made in Japan). Japanese made machinery is nearly always top shelf in design and build quality, so why shouldn't I ask? I didn't want to start a discussion about why I don't want to buy Chinese goods. I don't like China's business model, human rights abuse, industrial espionage, poor quality of export goods and militaristic bullying of everyone. I guess I'll pass on the Consew 2050 interest and look for something else to supplement my works. I wrote consew last week and they neglected to reply as yet, I guess that sums it up. Bladegrinder that's a real defeatist view of life. Im guessing you make knives based on your user handle? Suppose everyone went to dollar tree and Walmart and bought those cheap blades? What's wrong with Chinese blades? You'd probably be out of work or at best you'd had to find another hobby.

Where is all this Chinese quality you speak of? I never heard anyone say "I want a good one, I'll buy Chinese."

No thanks. I'm not a fan of Chinese imports. Not really looking to contribute $14 to the next Chinese Aircraft Carrier either..... If you already own one that's ok. Nobody is judging you here, we're all friends.

Shoepatcher you mentioned Weaver's 2050, are you saying they are the same machine that Consew is selling? Or are you just correcting Bob?

Really? You must be joking?

Interesting Bob.... Handstitched I am mostly just curious. I'd pick up another machine to have if I could get a quality machine made in Germany/Japan Just looking at the Consew 2050 as I feel like there is a chance it's not made in China. Wasn't too long ago they sold Seiko stitchers with a Consew label. I can still order Juki 441's but I never was real fond of them. I do have Adlers including a 205 currently.

I am curious about the Consew 2050 sewing machines. I've owned a few Consews over the years (Seikos made in Japan). And I'm curious about the current model 2050. The price tag on the new machines seems pretty high, (compared to some imports) leading me to wonder if these 2050s are made in Japan? Are they made in Japan or China? If they're Chinese are they same machines sold by Weaver/etc and just painted blue? Anyone have any thoughts on these machines?

Looking for a used Seiko CH8. If you happen to have one let me know your price, location/region and send a few photos. Thanks!

I've got a couple of Champions...A narrow throat I modified for special work and a regular depth Champion. I don't know if any manuals still exist? But truthfully they're so simple and heavily built I don't think you'd ever need a manual if you know anything about sewing machines. I like how they sew. As far as parts go they are nonexistent. Best thing to do is scour for a used junker an steal what you need. I use cut down UL needles in mine. I run z twist linen on top and s on the bobbin when using linen. Z on both when running poly. Maybe my favorite old hook and awl stitcher, just something about them.

That's a top and bottom feed skiver. (Not 100% of the true technical name for it). Great for thicker/heavier materials. I've known of a few Yoders using them in harness shops. They're good for heavy stock but not really suitable all that much for thinner (Depends how thin you go I guess). As a splitter, well...they can work on straps I guess. (Might as well use a bench splitter). A desirable machine overall.

I have a Randall leather burnishing machine and I'm curious if anyone has used one and what they thought about it? It's a green(ish) hammer painted burnisher made from heavy castings and has the ability to tilt to the side. Has anyone here used one much? I'm thinking to put the one I have up for sale. They must be pretty uncommon as I've only seen a couple? It looks very similar overall to another very old burnisher (maybe turn of the last century) I have, the old one can't tilt and has a fairly large wooden head made from what appears to be cocobolo?

You know, I've been running stitchers for almost 20 years now and I can't seem to wrap my head around a reverse....Even when I run something modern like and Adler 205 I never use it.I guess old habits die hard!

Hmm... Well it's not all that uncommon for a threaded needle type machine to have an issue with the lock like that. In the past when I first started I had issues with Adler 205's and a Luberto Classic doing the same thing. The problem is that when you have a spring loaded tensioner (No brakes) and a threaded needle that's how it will be. You'll need to use a smaller thread. 277 and even 207 is too large for a machine stitched wallet in 3/4oz leather. go to a smaller thread, 138 for example with the matching needle. You'll have much better looking stitches. Don't try to exceed the design of your machine. What your using would be better suited to sewing a saddle or harness. I made a wallet for myself once of 3/4oz bridle and I stitched it on a Randall. (Hook and awl) in 277. I was able to hide the locks, but just barely. A hook and awl machine with brakes can be tuned just right to hide a lock in such large thread in such thin leather, but not a threaded needle machine with spring tensioners.... One small thing that might help out if you're dead set on using 277 and a large needle is to make sure your thread is lubed. Not many threads come pre-lubed. Having your tension set so low on the top is probably what is causing your loose thread on the underside.