Cumberland Highpower

Those were my thoughts KGG. I've compared Chinese clones of big Adlers and Juki's and they're all lacking compared to originals. If nothing else, it's a pride of ownership thing. I'd rather sit for hours on end in front of a quality machine built in Japam rather than a Chinese Junker with a Juki badge. Of course I know Juki probably sources some parts outside of Japan, it's the way of the world these days.

Hello, thinking to order one or 2 Juki Lu 1341's...I am curious if any of the late machines were made in China, or if they're all Japanese MFG?

You might be right. Every time I watch a manufacturing video on youtube shot in Japan, I see the Usual Seikos and Jukis with some high grade attachments that I don't see in my typical shopping haunts....Or AliBaba. American importers import what's cheap and makes the best return.....

Where can a person find a good quality drop down roller guide for a Seiko LSC-8? Something of very good quality made in USA/Japan, etc. not a Chinese cheapy?

Anyone know where I could find a couple used leather horse carts? Eastern USA. Preferably steel. Plywood if well made. Wide top or standard. Hate to have to make a couple If I can source.

I forgot to mention that when I looked at your photos last week I took a few sec. to look up the shop on Google just out of curiosity. Seems the owners held several thousand acres of land in the area, and the shop turned to making tops for cars in the 20's. Closed and was torn down in the 1930's to build a Standard Oil Gas Station.

I have a 205-374 that is not cut for the synchronized binder. Some 205-374's could be, but not mine. $1200 is a pretty good buy all the same though. You could probably use a standard binder setup on it depending on your work.

What's the machine in the lower right corner of the first plate?

Did you ever find what you were looking for? I have one tucked in the drawer of one of mine. Parts list, some basic data, etc. Those machines are so simple you really don't need it. I'll see if I can maybe make you some copies. Used is tough to answer. I have a couple I bought during the recession for $250. I'd guess true market price today is probably $800.

Looking for a small/narrow open toe presser foot for a Champion Harness Stitcher or Peerless 30, etc. Something with 2 toes (open toe) and in decent shape, not welded, brazed, etc. Hoping to save a little time finding a used piece so I dont have to make one. Thanks!

Not entirely. If you're speaking as die making as a business, I know of a couple Yoder owned die shops that do business with outhouse phones and first class stamps. One in particular is pretty successful. I don't think the OP mentioned any business aspirations though, he just said "make his own dies."

They're an obsolete maker, but you can work up about anything for a stand. Even a harbor freight stand for a sander etc might work? Snap dies, you can work up something I think. Weaver leather, Dot Fastener, probably more. Ohio travel bag, etc.

Well, that's a mistake, taking me at face value. I'm usually wrong, undereducated/uneducated or politely misinformed most of the time-LOL

I don't get it? So I guess my leather couches aren't leather? I was trying to point out that I don't know if it's right or not, but rather that what I ordered was billed as leather and turned out to be leather. I did about 5 min of research into EU "leather regulations" and I find them ranging to from somewhat absurd to the point of retardation. It would appear for example, the import of leather goods is prohibited if "leather dust" in a significant amount detected on the goods. How do they find out? A $200 fee for analysis on importation...Apparently all imported leather goods are supposed to be "tested" and number of tests varies on types of leather and colors present....... My wife is from Europe and I've heard, probably hundreds of times over the years how you "cant do business over there."

3, 4, 5 cord. Barbour closed a few years back, I think C-R only has some larger old stock threads on hand. Machines I'd likely run it in :Randalls, Union locks, Champion 30 and Harness Combination, Landis 16. I woudn't mind a brown, Black or Natural color. Mostly strap/skirting and English Bridle leather. 7/8 and 14/16. Woud like to experiment with the tar/beeswax mix, but wanted to know if any others had some opinions before I jumped into it.

I've been using Hungarian linen through my machines for a while, but I'm starting to get tired of it. Works ok most of the time, but it's not always consistent, smooth or flattened like the old Barbour was...... Is there any alternative out there? Any quality linen being made anywhere? As a 2nd question, has anyone ran an asphaltum/beeswax mix through a machine? What were the results? Does it streak/mar the leather?

I have no doubt you do good work. The holster in your profile photo looks well thought out and made. It is possible to make a living from working leather although I'd advise against it. It's what I've done for 15 years and I've thought allot about switching gears in life. I work as a "subcontractor" of sorts for a couple big names and make my own lines of goods that I mostly rebrand. I mostly come on here to discuss machines and ask for input, thoughts, etc. I almost never talk about the actual items we make, it's a mix of paranoia and reluctance-lol.

Perhaps so. Only experience I have with buying leather goods from the EU was in 2011 during the recession. I ordered a pair of new "Made in EU" "genuine leather" couches sight unseen from a local discount furniture outlet. Paid $650 a piece and was expecting not all that much. When they came in, the packing was marked Made in Italy everywhere, and they were 100% leather. Napoli I believe. Not a scrap of vinyl to be found, even on the backs. A great buy and I still have them.

I kinda agree but only to a point I don't know if you're a hobbyist or make a living from working leather? I'd gamble from a $20 retail vinyl "leather" belt the profit margin is probably 10%. A real shop not only has to buy material and hire extremely expensive labor, but make machinery payments, payroll (Including the complete battery of payroll taxes, workers comp etc). Insurance, commercial rent or loan repayments, utilities and local real estate taxes.....When that's all said and done, then Uncle Sam hits you with income tax. They might only have $2 in materials up front, but don't let that lead to any conclusions. I don't think it's unreasonable really. $26 vinyl belts do have a market and it's a pretty big one. Regarding jackets, I'm not sure what to say? You're a purchaser of a $150 Paki import jacket. How is an American shop with huge overhead supposed to compete with that? Would you be willing to pay $350-450 for a comparable one, made in USA? Maybe we already have an answer? Not trying to be combative, just realistic here. Pakistani make what? $200 a month? $6 a day? They couldstart the day sitting on the ground and stitch and jacket together with a needle by hand and have it done by quitting time. The labor cost assembling even by hand would be $6. $6 might cover someone's cigarette break in Ohio?

Interesting point. I never could understand why so many "leatherworkers" are so determined to demand a unison feed machine. Yes they're universal of sorts, but for leather it always causes a larger, more complex footprint to deal with. A jump foot with a needle feed is better for general leather use. You can have a very small jump foot. I've stitched leather goods for a living for 15 years and only use a 205-370 Unison feed machine for one particular product. I have small feet on all my hook and awl machines and wouldn't trade for any of the harness maker (ClusterF**K) feet setups on a a Juki or a 205 class machine. Besides the feet gripe, I don't like the needle systems that are used on modern Unison Stitchers....I find the old 328 needle system to be ideal. less flex, good for just about anything you're stuffing on a Juki or 205 class machine. Yeah, I guess I have leather blinders on...Lots of others in industry that sew everything from dashboards to carpets I guess.....Maybe they need the capabilities?

That's a pretty awesome table. For holster work though I'm not sure what to say. Mostly no table at all is needed for holster work. Sometimes even a standard needle plate is too much. Can always be exceptions though?

It might be that old, although it seems to look just like the one's I played with in the late 80's and 90s. Probably had a long production run? Might be collectible someday if it says "USA" on it.

Thanks for the reply UWE. I noticed these awls are labeled for the Champion Straight Needle. That would be a boot stitcher. (Like a Champion 50 or American Straight Needle). The awls have a stubbier profile with heavier shoulder than I'm used to seeing, and cut to a diamond shape like awls designed for punching sole bends. I don't know if they're compatible with the Champions Im using? I have a Peerless 30 and Harness Stitchers. The Peerless 30 is also a boot stitcher, but I feel like maybe the hooks and awls may be different from the Straight needle? I don't know as I've never owned or use a Champion Straight Needle? Would anyone have some info if they'd be compatible?

Hmm, that's interesting. Might make them Champion compatible in that case. I wonder why they'd begin to turn them down lower? On a UL that would remove some stiffness. Not really a good thing for a machine that hook feeds. I wonder if it was one of those "lets reduce part numbers we stock" strategies? I have to confess I've not bought UL hooks "new" for a long time. last UL I bought came with hundreds of hooks and some awls, I'd say stock from the 70's and 80's from the looks of it.

Any chance you might still have some #5 and 6? I run allot of 277 and 4 cord.