Cumberland Highpower

You know, I have an old Osborne Newark draw gauge on my workbench that I use for one specific item. I keep it in an open top box, but have probably poked myself on that blade a dozen times when not actually cutting strips with it..... Many years ago before I had machines I would have a harness shop cut my leather, and they often cut the straps by hand rather than to change out blades on a strap cutter for a side. Occasionally I would find evidence of someone being cut on my leather....So it's not an unrealistic worry you have there. Those wooden strap cutters seem to be to be best for soft or thin leather. A draw or plough gauge is best for skirting/strap/ bridle.

looks like they have one for $75 w/steel. Still high. Apparently they are popular. Some things I would pay the money for, especially quality tools I'd have to handle over and over and over.....For the next 20 years. I'd probably pony up for the Romanov tool. That 1/10 the cost tool referenced probably has 1/3 the build quality. I guess that's a good ratio? (China's Golden Rule?) Here's another on Etsy made in Russia that's $40 plus shipping:

You're right on when it comes to adding brass....But you have to admit it seems to be the best build of the lot.

There is an outfit in Russia that makes this tool. I'd say looking better than the original. (Certainly not "Ivan's Cheap Copy you reference?) Romanov Tools. Etsy I believe. When I first got into working leather I used a draw gauge. Tried one of these but found it bulky and harder to use ironically. Later discovered and bought a plow gauge. I found that to be a far superior tool to a draw gauge.

Did you get your Singer at the Auction? I looked it over and watched it sell, mainly over curiosity. Looks like it went for a total of $1320 w/buyer's premium? Overall I think that was pretty reasonable for what looked like a good clean machine.

I have no doubt you can do some good work on one. If you have a chance, post some photos of your stitching/work here. I've always preferred hook and awl machines in leather for the slight improvement in stitch quality. I find the Landis 1 just too slow for any kind of productivity, and the bed too flat for small objects to be easily manipulated. (Holsters, etc). I don't make tack, so I know surprisingly little there. Sometimes I find my Randalls frustratingly slow. I find those to be the easiest to use and make the best stitch of anything I have. anything with more than a foot of stitching in any run goes on my UL's....

If you're looking for a decent machine and don't have one, buy the 97. it will probably not go high. 1k maybe. Looks like it's been used, threaded up, etc. looks clean from what I can tell. If it's in good shape, you'll never wear it out. (You sound like a hobby type user). Who cares about parts, in this case. There are some needles that can be used, if i remember either cut down or adjust the needle bar a bit. I believe the shuttle is the standard Singer 45k/Adler 105 type. Probably widely available. I doubt it's worn out as it sits... No way I'd buy a Landis 1 over a 97. I think the Landis 1 is pretty neat and is a great display piece.....But that's about it. Only collectors and Swartzentrubers buy those these days.

I once had a pressed sheet steel pulley w/bolt in hub from a hay bailer on a perforating machine I modified. Probably a 24" dia pulley. I eventually took it off and added a speed reducer. I did it as I found it unhandy to grasp when I needed to turn here and there by hand. Still have another pressed steel pulley on a modified Champion stitcher. No push back really Toxo. Your only flaw seems to be that you don't realize you're more mechanically inclined than most that frequent here.

I have done similar modifications, however it's not always so easy for common hobbyists to figure that out...Not many here can source a "250"mm pulley so easily, or machine out a hub, or measure/fit bores and bushings. What makes it a bit harder still for some, is that we're on an "imperial" system of measure. Pulleys here have bores in fractional inch sizes. A Chinese machine is probably a copy of an Adler, that's probably metric spec. Canuks probably have metric pulleys....Last time I was in Canada (some time ago) it was a mix of Imperial and Metric at the hardware store. Apparently, at some point in time (Chandler?) offered a nice oversize handwheel for the Adler 105/205 machines as an add on. There was a 105 in the for sale forum here last month that had one on it.

The Ferdco machines I've seen were modified Adlers and Jukis. Seems like I saw one on a Clone of a Juki once as well. Why not just look for a 205 or a 441 manual online? That would cover the majority of what you're probably looking to know. They were pretty expensive machines at the time, and all could stitch some real thick leather. They don't seem to bring as much at auction, comparing to other similar class machines. I don't know why.

Sell them to the guy. Why not? Like some of the other members above I sell quite a few of my goods to retailers that resell under house brands. It's kind of like, so what?? Think of Craftsman or Makita, Chanellock, etc....They all buy off the line tools and have them rebranded by the manufacturers.... Hell, even machinery companies do that. Weaver Leather sells a Weaver 205 that's really someone else's design and build. Sell your buyer 10x that if he has the money.

Sometimes changing the type of feed wheel can reduce some of that problem. I have both knurled steel and stone wheels. I have stone on my machine now, it seems to work a bit better for what I'm cutting on mine.

I have a FAV skiver with vacuum exactly as you pictured. I'd buy it if I were you. I love mine. I had an old USMC pluma that was around 100 years old for a long time. Was in fantastic shape, but didn't come with a vacuum. With the FAV I never have to clean up anything. It's amazing the shear amount of leather I empty out of the cabinet. I only use it for making a lap on a single type of strap. When I see the thousands of scraps in the cabinet, I wonder where the money from all those items went! Is your FAV having a motor that is dual voltage? Mine is single phase 220v (USA) but if you have a 3phase you can use a phase converter. Check to see if yours is convertible between 440v and 220v.

Nobody ever used a Sandt Clicker? Maybe I should stick to what I know

I thought the same thing about when they moved to Newark. However I was looking at a 1922 issue of some old harness makers trade magazine and it had an add for Osborne and stated Harrison, NJ as the location of business. Did they maintain both locations for a while?

Might be a little high on postage to the US?

Toxo and others are right. On a few occasions I've made belting for machines skived, glued and stitched (In area of lap) and they work for many years.

Hello how did you decide it's from 1958? Is that the year it was rebuilt? I always thought these USMC clickers were far more ancient...

Friend I might be interested in some, but your posting is too vague and watered down. No photos, not machine lists...No prices.... Are you selling them individually or by the "grab bag" pallet? I have interest in Durkopp Adler machines and possibly a clicker if it's in good shape, modern and OSHA approved.

Mike I am not sure if Singer ever made any hook and awl machines, even in the States?

That's pretty interesting. My Rossley doesn't have any cuts like this one does. I've got an electric heating element on mine w/control box. Ever use one like that?

I always got a laugh when I would hear on tv about the Serbs "Trying to join Europe". Chrisash I would agree. Although on a flip coin I bet even you might disagree with your point in the right context. For example, I consider Russians as Europeans, in spite of the fact the majority of Russia is in Asia and rather not on the European Continent. When it comes to Turks, I would say no. Turkey is partially in Europe, but the majority not....And in no way do I consider Turks as European. Matt I think a Pearson 6 would be pretty sharp to have. I'm never against a good classic piece of machinery. A no 4 weighing 450lbs is crazy heavy for just a head. I can't think of any quite that heavy. Maybe a Champion Wide Throat or Campbell Cyclone? I'm guessing on the Cyclone. Never owned one, but I did see 4 rebuilt machines on a pallet once. Pretty massive pieces of machinery. I'm just curious about all this, I don't think I'm "allowed" to buy any new stitching machines though as I have 10 already.....Do you find the no 6 to be a slower stitching machine than others by virtue of the design? Now that I've invoked Russia in the discussion, are there any leatherworking machines such as stitchers made either in Russia or the USSR of old?

Coming from the US, I guess I'd consider Britain "European" It is, it's not...But it is. Germanic/Latin base (by way of French) language, right on the coast of continental Europe, Settled by Angles and Saxons, Celts, etc, Cristian religion (Mostly). You're even EU. Or are/were? I dont know. I've heard of Pearsons but never owned one or seen one in use. did have a Luberto Classic for a short while, I guess that's relatively close. That's pretty unique that No4. So I guess there is one.

Hello not quite looking like what I saw (Was for certain a harness stitcher), but I learned something already. So there is at least one hook/awl machine made in Europe after all That seems to have the look of being a good machine though.

I've never owned a CH8, but used one briefly 20 years ago. I liked it from my vague memory, but I have read of many that didn't. Seems like they don't hold up or stitch as well as a Juki or Adler and have fewer feed available? Sounds like a timing issue. I believe you can balance the stitch length, but I don't have any way to help out there sorry to say.