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Cumberland Highpower

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Everything posted by Cumberland Highpower

  1. I'm looking for a cheap (yet decent) servo for a machine I'm setting up. It's a wimpy machine that I want to run at a pretty low SPM. as low as 30 maybe. Thinking to order in an ISM CB-55D in 110v, although I looked a bit at some of the Reliable Sew Quiets as an option. I don't know much about the Reliables, how low can they go? I've got a couple ISM SV-71s in 210V. While I REALLY like these I do have some problems with my supply voltage. At times in summer my line voltage goes above 246v and when it crosses that threshold the ISM's will error out. That's not really a "problem" in a big way. I just plug in a small idler motor in the circuit that gets it down a bit and problem solved. Anyone have any experience with the CB-55D? How about the "Reliable" 6000 and 6050?
  2. When I was a boy my mother went through allot of home sewing machines. One day my dad bought a Necchi BU in a cabinet from a hoarder for $20. She still has the Necchi and I think it was the best home use machine ever made.
  3. I guess I'm the only risk taker on this forum? LOL
  4. Looking for a set of roller wheels for a Randall NSB Beveler. I need them for 3/4" straps. Can be steel or aluminum as long as the contact surfaces are in good shape. Let me know what you have
  5. I think they're mostly sealed bearing units? There is a sleeve that moves in the housing that could use a little oil, it slides back and forth when you engage it. try lubing that. CM's are tough and can last just about forever. I have one on a Randall that was made in 1984 and I use it every day nearly. I've adjusted the Cluch/Brake a couple times since I've owned it over the last 20 years. You can buy the friction plates and bearings for some of the better ones, but buying a used CM is often cheaper. They're not obsolete at all and are still made. There are just better and worse uses for them these days. Servos are great when you want a positioner and on leather stitchers for beginners (and non beginners) I find CM's on heavy sewing machines that are run full throttle for long durations is best. I highly doubt you'll get any Chinese Servo to last 40 years though, more like 5 if you use it allot. Maybe an Efka or Mitsubishi can make it to 50yrs? I can tell you one thing that's a negative about Servos, you can't tell from the sound if they're on. I recently put a needle through the tip of my finger when inserting a bobbin on a Seiko. Lucky for myself the needle didn't shatter....If it had been a CM I'd have known it was on.
  6. So I came across this old post and am looking for some similar input here in 2025. I've contracted a run of belts with these types of tips, but find them to be a bit of a pain. I've got 1" tips to attach. Is there a die or punch specifically made for these types of tips? After looking online at some photos of production belts, it seems I see a mix of some sort of custom fitting and belts simply fitted to a leather tip with an English point. The later appears to have some taper visible before entering the tip? I'd like to cut this particular run of belts on my Galli. If there is a pattern or readily available "punch" of some sort I could install or modify to cut it, would be great. Any thoughts or advice? This is the first batch of belts with tips I'll have made.
  7. I've been working on some small leather goods and would like to machine stitch them with linen. I've never sewn with small gauge linen, and have been looking at the Meisi sz40 superfine linen. Mainly because I like the feel of linen in general and I like the colors they offer. Cost wise it's pretty expensive.... I believe this thread is "Waxed" although I don't know to what degree as I haven't ordered any just yet. I'd like to run this in a machine, either LSC-8b-1 or a Te-5b. Ideally in the Te-5b, I feel like the shuttle/long hook may allow for slightly better stich quality. Does anyone have any experience w/this thread by machine?
  8. Here, Facebook Marketplace. Auctions.....
  9. Ok, so I am doing something I should have experimented 20 years ago when I got in the business.... I've bought a Seiko TE5 that is essentially a modern version of the Singer 17. I want to run some really thin soft leathers through it, and I have seen online that it's a common trick to superglue a thin strip of rubber over the feed dogs. Now I've never done that before, it's a new concept for me. Are there any commercially available ready made rubber bonded feed dogs for it? What about teflon presser feet? I see some around for textile machines of other makes? I've probably lost my mind buying this TE5, but I was seriously intrigued by it for some odd reason and I don't want to mess with any of my other machines, they're all set up for other things.
  10. I used to work miles of Biothane, what are you using? I ran mostly Beta When you say hot stamping, you mean an embosser or foil type machine, right? About any will work. If you're talking about a hot cutting machine, if you're running beta it depends how thick. SH Beta is hard to run through a hot cutter, you have to set the machine to run as slow as possible. I often resorted to a lube pad made from foam to lube the top surface, that aided surprisingly allot in the cleanness of the cut.
  11. Just make sure you ask how much! I had Weaver resurface a stack of clicker boards once...I got a little sticker shock. Be sure to ask about shipping also. I once ordered a 2 oz plastic ball (foot lift) for an Adler 205 and they charged me $17 fedex after charging me 10x what the ball was worth. FWIW my son found that ball and lost it, so I ordered one on ebay for $5, free shipping Just saying to be careful with assumptions, I still deal allot with Weaver and like the outfit, I but know before hand what I'm paying-lol I sharpen all of my punches on a 2x72 belt sander. Very carefully to avoid making them larger. Yours needs trued up a bit then the bevel shaped a little.
  12. I almost bought a Damasko once. One of the more "basic" tool watches. Decided against it though, it just didn't seem to offer anything a Seiko that looked about the same did. So I took the Damasko money and bought a spare ATOM SE25 with it. I usually can't keep a watch more than 1-2 years. 1 is about the average. I tend to kill them. Impact. Knocking off the counter, putting in the washing machine, etc. Broke one once hitting my arm on scaffolding. Not surprisingly, lost one to the concrete from a failed strap/pin as you point out. Watches are rarely an investment in honesty. Maybe 10% are and those are top brands/materials kept in pristine shape. If I had bought the Damasko, worn it for 2 years and put it up for sale it would probably bring $400 at best. The Atom I bought with my Damasko money is worth at least 2k.
  13. That type of machine usually brings top dollar, might be out of his price range? 3x the cost of his PFAFF?
  14. That's mostly the nature of unison feed machines unfortunately. You're turning your work while the outer presser foot is down, and your center is anywhere other than under the needle. Unison feed machine basically suck for leather work, but they've become the standard as they can do about everything. Leather, nylon, plastic, etc. You could try to train yourself to turn your work on sharp curves while the outer presser is still up, and the needle down, that might help some. You may also want to check and see if your inner and outer foot lift is balanced. Maybe your feet don't sit square against the needleplate? You may need to hone on the feet to fit better, more squarely. Also try an open toe inner foot if you haven't. Roller feed are good for tight curves and give great visibility, but really are only good on leathers that don't mar up. They'll leave knurled tracks on top or a bit of a trough, and pretty heavy feed dog marks on the underside. That's why they're mostly used for shoe/boot uppers. I have a couple machines set up with large rollers that have rubber covered wheels, for visibility mostly.
  15. Does anyone know if Nippy presser and roller feet will fit the FAV Skiver? They're both fortuna-ish clones.
  16. I admire this member's dedication to the craft. All that hand stitching just to showcase a sample. Only in Japan! lol
  17. That's a serious watch. I like it. I appreciate your thoughts and advice. I think for me, personally, would be pretty easy to market straps. I have 2 "machine shops" full of machines already and have been making everything from competitive shooting gear, holsters, belts, slings, tools and other goods on exclusive contract runs for over 20 years. I think I could target a market in the $35 range w/good quality materials and lined with French Calf. Basically the "average" buyer. I personally don't like those QR pins, but I think an "average" buyer with an average watch wants those. I know an Amishman that made a living for 10 years making straps for Nick Gabarro. I'd say I learned a thing or 2 from him along the line. some were from shell cordovan, some nylon, some common chrome leathers. What's motivated me to a degree are the "Trump Tariffs" Some things that were not profitable last week are more likely to be actually profitable in a year. Strap Code's prices are going to go up, maybe 10-60% in the near future? Let's not comment further on my ambitions though, I don't want to hijack the OP's post. I think his work looks pretty sharp and I'd certainly wear it.
  18. I'm curious, when did Seiko switch paint colors on it's machines from Grey to White? An even tougher question, when did they switch from black, to grey, then grey to white? Did the grey to white color have anything to do with the end of the sales relationship with Consew?
  19. I've been tooling up myself to make leather watch straps. Only by machine. I guess I'll just include "Not for $5000 watches" stamped under size and maker stamping. LOL
  20. i think your work looks pretty sharp. Professional. How long did it take you to make the set? Is that hand stitching? I'm not familiar with your leathers, are those leathers produced in Japan or imports from Italy/etc?
  21. Well, it sounds like your chain needs to be taken up a link or however your'e adjusting it. First thing you want to do is see if you can back off the pressure on the feet. if that doesn't work, Sometimes you have to think outside of the box. You can COUNTER the force of the feet if it's too high by attaching a light spring from the hardware store to your lift chain and then somewhere on the table (pulling it down). Don't use a spring heavier than the one in your machine, you just want to reduce down pressure. I've made pressure extremely light this way on a couple machines. Light, but consistent. If you're using a very large needle with large thread, you could run into issues with a very light pressure on the feet.
  22. I've got another needle system question today. I've agreed to purchase a machine that uses a DBx1 or 16x231 needle system. I've not owned a machine as yet that's specd. for these needles. Are they in any way compatible with the 134/5 needles? Machine is a Seiko Te6
  23. When I looked the machine over I noticed it has an older style timing belt with the crimped steel teeth. Looks to be in fine shape, but I wouldn't mind replacing the belt with a modern one while I clean it up. Judging from your link a part number 234003 was discussed, but looks like an obsolete/NLA part. Is there an updated alternate available? I'd just like to change it if possible while I have things apart. I also have a "spare" machine assuming both of my machine's belts are identical. The other 51w I have is the earlier version with the take up arm out the front. Of course I don't know if they are.
  24. That's a pretty good share Constabulary!
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