Cumberland Highpower

i think your work looks pretty sharp. Professional. How long did it take you to make the set? Is that hand stitching? I'm not familiar with your leathers, are those leathers produced in Japan or imports from Italy/etc?

It's a Seiko Te5

Well, it sounds like your chain needs to be taken up a link or however your'e adjusting it. First thing you want to do is see if you can back off the pressure on the feet. if that doesn't work, Sometimes you have to think outside of the box. You can COUNTER the force of the feet if it's too high by attaching a light spring from the hardware store to your lift chain and then somewhere on the table (pulling it down). Don't use a spring heavier than the one in your machine, you just want to reduce down pressure. I've made pressure extremely light this way on a couple machines. Light, but consistent. If you're using a very large needle with large thread, you could run into issues with a very light pressure on the feet.

I've got another needle system question today. I've agreed to purchase a machine that uses a DBx1 or 16x231 needle system. I've not owned a machine as yet that's specd. for these needles. Are they in any way compatible with the 134/5 needles? Machine is a Seiko Te6

When I looked the machine over I noticed it has an older style timing belt with the crimped steel teeth. Looks to be in fine shape, but I wouldn't mind replacing the belt with a modern one while I clean it up. Judging from your link a part number 234003 was discussed, but looks like an obsolete/NLA part. Is there an updated alternate available? I'd just like to change it if possible while I have things apart. I also have a "spare" machine assuming both of my machine's belts are identical. The other 51w I have is the earlier version with the take up arm out the front. Of course I don't know if they are.

That's a pretty good share Constabulary!

So I retrieved a couple Singer 51w54s I had lost away in a shed for over 20 years today. One rusted up, one looking really good w/no rust. I'm planning to clean up and go over the clean machine. But having never used these I have no idea what needles they take. I can't seem to find any reference to needle size anywhere. What needle system is used by the 51w54? I feel from a quick look over it's something else, like maybe a 128? Like everyone I have about a million 134/35 needles laying around. Any easy way to make it take a 134/35? Maybe a retrofit needle bar?

Up for sale is a Nakajima DBU 180-L-2 Double feed machine. (Walking foot and feed dog). No Needle feed. Great for heavy textiles, Canvas, vinyl, etc. Can be used on leather with different feet. Practically same machine as the Juki DU 140. (Juki bought out Nakajima). Good tight machine, decent external condition. large bobbin (M). A few extra feet, etc. Similar to Weaver 303 as well. $350+UPS head only shipped UPS. (I estimate around 80lbs). $450 with complete table/clutch motor. I can ONLY ship the head. If you wish the outfit complete, you must pick up SE OH.

I've got a Singer I'm setting up for a small run of goods, A cylinder arm Singer 17. What is the largest thread I can run through it and expect decent results? I'd like to use 138 top/bottom but may run something smaller underneath. I also have a 51w54 I may resurrect, will it also run 138 top/bottom? I've never used either of these machines, so tips/advice help a bit.

What thread are all of you members using for watch straps? Size/composition? Anyone using linen thread on a machine? Probably questions that can have have a hundred answers no doubt. Just wondering what the typical set up is for everyone using a machine.

He needs to just buy a bottle of 10 spindle oil. It's cheap and readily available. $40-50 a gallon. It's all over the net in pints and qts as well. Many sewing machines call for common spindle oil and it would work just fine on his Pfaff. Most Pfaff machines are mostly clones or based on Singers, the same machines everyone else copies and recommends 10w spindle oil on. It's also widely used on textile machinery in general.

True to a degree, but then not really at the same time. A straight non detergent SAE "motor" oil can be the same exact oil as an ISO oil, they just use a different scale. SAE30 is ISO 100. It's the detergents/additives in most SAE oils that would be undesirable to a degree in a sewing machine, but in real life it's kind of a "so what" deal.

I think you can use about anything really. My Adlers called for Esso Millcot K68, that's essentially just a first cousin to 20w bar and chain oil. Seikos, Consews and Brothers I have just called for common spindle oil, so I bought some Gulfport Gulfspin that I buy cheap on Ebay. I'd imagine a Pfaff is about the same deal. You can use about anything, although I'd shy away from detergent oil. Synthetic oils are a + I use straight 30w non detergent oil on all the big stuff. Don't like the idea of ATF as lubricant in a machine and all over my fingers, but no reason at all why it wouldn't lubricate (that's what it does).

I think I'll end up passing on that Colle De Cologne? LOL I absolutely can't handle Barge. Either the old or "new" formula. I had to wear a respirator when I used it. I'd pick about any other solvent based cement over it, I don't know why it's so popular, maybe tradition? I'll send an email and see what they say about glue machines. Seems like "glue machine" stumps everyone, so I wonder what they'll say? I asked Potdevin once what I should use on thin leather and the told me there is no such glue for leather I thought that was pretty ironic considering they actually market those machines on the website for "Paper, Cork, leather crafts, etc.

I think you guys have convinced me, I'm going to order a gallon and see how it goes. It's about 2x the cost of the latex weldwood from the sound of it? $100/gal

Where about? Ripley? What else do you have for sale?

Hmm, I wish I knew these machines still had some value. I have at least 2 of the 51s I've left in a shed with a bunch of other machines (Union Special/Singers) for at least a decade....Maybe I'll put them up here on the classifieds as a you fix it up and make it work project?

Thanks for the reply Bruce. Sounds like you have a little experience with it. I read it has "no odor" but I'm wondering about that. Is it "no odor" or just "less odor"? I'm using mostly DAP latex contact cement here, thinned down a little in my glue machines. It's pretty tolerable to be around, but I'd stop short of calling it "low odor" and use it in a vented area. Wonder how it compares? Probably will order some to experiment with.

Discovered something new today Renia Aquilium. It's a water based contact cement made in Germany from what I see. I'm a little intrigued by it, but have not used it and curious if anyone here has? Especially in a glue machine? I have Potdevins that I use a thinned down latex based cement in, but am always looking for something new.

The old world leather is ok. It's just a really heavily stuffed harness leather. Supple but practically stretch proof. Somwhat easy to mar up. The first piece of leather I ever bought to work up (25 years ago) was a side of HO Old World Harness. It was ok. I've never bought another side of it since.

is it a 328 needle?

Looks fantasitc, really should give some pride of ownership. Looking at all that excellent work and attention to detail makes my hands hurt though........lol

What part of Romania are you in?

I'm kinda dreaming of backtack and automatic foot lift capability on a Seiko CW8-B. It's the same machine as a Consew 227. This CW-8B is fairly new to me (I've got a pair of LSC 8B and 277R machines) and I've picked up a HOSING HVP i90-c Servo. The servo has function for both automatic backtack and foot lift as well as positioner. The problem is that I have no idea what it would take to retrofit this old school machine. Are there any ready made conversion kits available? I'm guessing some kind of solenoid, either air or electrical fit to the reverse lever and foot lift?? I won't die without the auto backtack or foot lift, just want it. The positioner is worth it to me though. I've kinda "tagged" this machine for the conversion if possible, mainly because the reverse feels a bit unusual to me.

I got her figured out Northmount. What was missing must be a bus fuse holder. I could see the "retaining" nut marks in the paint on the back of the panel. Makes sense after seeing that. Was also a bad connection on the hot wire from the Motor Starter relay.