Cumberland Highpower

hmm.

I'm going over a pair of United Carr M245 motorized snap setting machines. Doing the usual, cleaning, adjusting, etc and thought to replace the drive belts. My usual cheat method is to just remove a flat belt when I come to one and replace it with a heavy cogged v belt and changing the pulley on the motor to a V type while leaving the larger driven one flat. This time around I may have hit a bump in the road. Best I can tell, the driven pulley doesn't have any way around it for a standard belt. I can't really get a good look in there, but best I can tell I'd have to disassemble the machines to get a v belt in? Anyone replace a belt in a M245 type before? Any tricks or advice before I take everything apart? They currently have flat belts w/lacing.

You don't really need thinner for the pro dye. I've dip dyed browns for years in 5gal buckets....And had the same problem at the begining. The first thing to address is having your dye at room temperature or above. If it's 20degrees where you dye, it's not going to absorb well and you'll get those results. I realize it's August and I see you're in GA, so that's probably not your issue. the other thing to address is working the dye into the leather. the Browns/tans are the worst colors to get a good even tone with. You are probably oversaturating the leather (I feel like your 3-4 seconds is probably more like 6-8) AND not working the surface excess into it. After you pull it out of your dye you need to "work" the dye into the leather for a few seconds until it vanishes. if you pull it out of the bucket dripping with dye and it stays that way very long you'll get lots of dark/black/streaks/blotches, etc. Thinners make it absorb more quickly (Alchohol) but you'll generally get a lighter shade that takes more dips to darken to the desired one. Browns usually take 2 dips. 2 seconds in, wipe excess, dry completely then repeat In hot GA sun I'd say an hour or 2 would be enough drying time. Makes sure your dye is well blended. It seems to separate a little with time. Last bit of advice is to use a QUALITY leather for the browns. Mexican/Argentinian/Turk import sides don't absorb or dry as evenly with browns as Herman Oak or even W&C. By the way are you sure you have the right color of dye? Any chance you dumped the wrong jug into the blend? I once did that and made a whole batch of holsters that were supposed to be brown. I had dumped a gallon of black by mistake, forgetting what I was working on. The results were actually a charcoal color. Much to my surprise they were the first ones to sell.....!

I used to order some pretty long posts from DOT years ago. I think I remember some being close to 9/16"? A common trick to gain a little is to punch a larger hole for the snap to recess in. I can't remember how large it is exactly as I sit here, but something like 1/2" There are/were also the stud parts that were designed a little deeper in the center, allowing thicker leather. Did you check out DOTs' website? Not sure if they still have one, just assuming.

When I handed the ATT to the crossing agent they just waived me through. Didn't even want to look at my rifles. I doubt it would be so easy today.

That's pretty awesome. Im left wondering a bit. With a VFD you probably shouldn't operate your motor under 400rpm (it might overheat). With the 4:1 reduction that would put you down to 100rpm. Of course the reducer might allow you to cheat the overheating part by allowing less load at low rpms so maybe you could push it lower under load? Have you had any trouble with overheating?

I wouldn't use the word addiction KGG, maybe more "appreciation" LOL Do you shoot in competition? Back in 2000 I joined the DCRA for one season out of curiosity and went up to Connaught Range to take part as a Civilian in the CFSAC. Surprisingly as luck would have it, I was disqualified during squadding. (I was 5 min late). Later on I found out it was a blessing of sorts...For the match I brought a pair of Colt AR match rifles, about 3k rds of ammo and a duffel bag of 20rd magazines along for the trip. The Rifles were legal of course, as I had applied for an "ATT" but the ammo circumstance and the bag of high cap mags were apparently not....Considering many of the participants were either RCMP or OPP I probably would have been in cuffs before the day was out! So I decided to go sight seeing around Ottawa for a day before heading back. Another stroke of luck! it's a real bummer what they did to you guys up there under Trudeau when it comes to firearms. It was bad enough before.

I like it. Wish I had a small shop in South OZ I could call my winter destination!! When I was still living at home years ago we had a shed set up kind of like that. I started making M1907 Match slings 30 years ago (!!!) and had it split 1/2 leather stuff, 1/2 reloading. Never reloaded one pistol cartridge in my life (unless you can somehow justify 444 is one). Loaded TONS of rifle rounds though. Always looked at Dillons but shot so few handguns it was easier to buy for those.

Might be some plates/feet/dogs that are smooth for that machine? There's a guy in Japan that makes wallets among other things and he uses Seikos with large knurled presser wheels. Wheel marks everywhere, but that's part of his trademark look. Just saying if you can't beat'em, maybe join'em?

I've used some Organ needles and they seemed to be overall a good needle. Schmetz are better overall but it is what it is. I've also bought them for hook and awl machines and in that regard they are just as good as any other.

Yeah that's kinda odd way to mark the packs. Organ says when you take a 135x17 needle and make it a TRI it becomes a 135x16TRI. I've seen that in their marketing material in the past. I guess they just want to put it all out there for those that might be a bit confused in what to purchase? !

Ok.

Hey I like that. I guess that's the "Slant 6" of the sewing world?

Saddle stitching mostly still exists for either of 2 reasons: 1) Novelty 2) Poverty. Novelty as in Hermes or other high end makers that are selling the work of skilled artisans and a high end/luxury item. Poverty as in you can't afford a stitcher, yet. Even when I hand stitch that rare item I don't use a saddle stitch anymore. (I use a speedy stitcher). the stitches look about the same and the strength is close enough. (Your hands are only going to last so long, don't wear them out fiddling with stitches). There are a very few times when saddle stitches are used by an equipped shop. Repair, someone just wants it done a certain way or reproduction of goods designed before machine stitching.

RockyAussie thanks for the reply. How do you find the overall ergonomics? Are these high posts comfortable machines to operate sitting down or do you feel your knees crowded and having to reach excessively upwards to work? Probably not as bad as I'm visualizing sitting here, but wanted to ask. Makes sense about the post offset.

I've somewhat decided that I'd like a new machine, one kind of new to me anyway. A tall post. I've used a couple more standard post bed machines, and to be honest I prefer them over most any type. I've never used a "tall" or "extra tall" version. All I've seen have the bobbin/hook offset to the left as opposed to the right of the post. I'm wondering why that is? So far I've only seen Chinese machines for sale, I wonder if there are any good used machines that are EU/Japanese made? I'd like to run 138, but could go as high as 207 on top at times. Any recommendations?

Are you wanting a machine to sew patches onto jackets or whatever, or are you looking for a cnc machine to sew/make patches? If you're sewin them onto jackets, a shoe patcher or a high post machine (or both) would be great.

I like it. Seems like it worked out pretty well.

Sometimes I wonder things like that. Sometimes thoughts like that are a bit off though. We always think in terms of ourselves, family run shops, etc. Truth is allot of these machines went into big production shops/factories. Nobody wants to dream of their personal machine being one of 20+ operated by punch clock, floor workers for 60+ years and then sold off at an auction in 1990..... My 16 has a brass tag on it that a factory installed on it generations ago. (not the factory tag) probably an inventory/property number. Of course nowadays that those machines are essentially "out to pasture" in small shops/hobby shops that would fit pretty well.

I guess that makes sense. I don't have much experience working bellies so never thought about it. I usually just throw away bellies or sell them for a few bucks a piece when I accumulate a pile.

Really probably not a big deal either way? I'd maybe guess it has something to do with marring the leather edge on the grain side? Especially if you're edging damp leather.

I like the old Staney razor knives that retract. One of my favorite Quarter or 50cent purchases at garage sales/flea markets/auctions! I only buy the retractable versions, I have a tendency to want to put them in my pockets.... Do you have garage sales in Canada? Just curious.

Anything sells in America, even if its' a "bad" deal! There would probably be a market for any shears, although unless you can be competitive it won't matter. The tariffs are your friend to a degree. You may pay more for steel, but get a higher percentage return on the finished product. I use a pair of W German made "Black Diamond" shears that are similar to the Wiss, w/serrations to grip, but I find the Black Diamond shears to be better balanced. Osborne also markets shears that I think are made by Wiss. A longer pair would not give any increase in leverage so only would be good for soft leathers/thin chrome, etc. To be honest, while they might be known as "belt shears" they are not all that great at cutting belts. Cutting a belt or 2 yes, or a holster prototype, but if you do it all day no way. I use a pair of cutters with compound leverage far more than my Black diamonds for cutting straps to length. (Cut-Rite) They were marketed in the 1990s by Walmart (USA made) and I've bought every pair I've ever come across at almost any price. I'd think a buyer would pay up to $80 for a quality pair (really about going rate) if you were to make something up.

I think the original needles are going to be hard to find. I believe they're out of production by everyone and the lack of needles is what has pushed many away from the old 97's. I passed on one for that reason. What type of work do you plan to sew? I don't think I really ever stitched anything in leather over 11/16" Can always be a need for capacity though. Oil? Use straight 30W oil. Allot of the more modern, heavy machines use a 30W with a tackifier added (Basically 30w bar and chain oil). Old machines have allot of wear anyway and that helps a bit. Most of the little machines like a 31 you cite use a lighter weight oil, basically a spindle oil. Any oil is better than no oil, but that's too light for a 97 or any cast iron monster for that matter.

I have only a little experience with the 97. I think they were primarily used to sew heavy rigging back in the day, that was something hook and awl machines couldn't do. Should be able to simply adjust the needle bar up or down to compensate for the long needles? Those singer needles are longer because there's more stuff it has to clear. Guide/foot wise. You could probably use a shorter needle with good results if you ran it without the needle guide. That would depend on what you're planning to sew most likely. Seems like the old 97's have gone down the obsolescence path much like old Landis 1 and Champion Stitchers?