Cumberland Highpower

I pulled an Ace Hot Cutter model HC720wp out to clean up and use for a project. I've never used it before and spent a couple hours cleaning, oiling, adjusting, replacing belts and adjusting the reeves drive. Everything is A-ok mechanically, although it wont start by the on and off buttons....Works fine if I plug the under the machine plug into an extension cord though. Stopped working on it for the evening, had enough for today, lol. I am curious if anyone has a manual for this machine w/electronic schematics or a photo/two to share? I don't need a manual to figure out the issue, but there is one small thing missing on the front of the box. I don't know if it's supposed to be a buss fuse, or a small power indicator light. It's set up with cold cutting knife on it.

When I moved allot of machinery from one shop to another I learned a trick. Most machines will "tip" left to right off a dolly. So I took 2 dollies and used 1" ratchet straps to strap them tight on the machines. One dolly on each leg. A 12" pine board under both back legs. I was able to move some really heavy machines that way. That way I had 4 pneumatic tires on the ground In a way similar to Toxo, just with 2 dollies involved.

Looking for a belt guard for a Consew 277. I have a machine that's missing it and I'd like to replace it.

I don't think you need the deflection guide or the shims if you're using a 300 needle. A needle that thick would have very little flex. Adler probably ran out of old shims and discontinued it from lack of demand? With a needle that large I'd think your feed dog would limit flex for the most part?

Maybe not? LOL. I talked about with the owner a little and he's pretty firm. Apparently, he paid a fair bit more than 4500 for it. I may pass on it I guess, i just "wanted" it. Looks like the only advantage I'd be gaining with this over the machines I have is little more depth, automatic backtack and to a lesser degree foot lift. I mainly just wanted the backtack feature. The servos I have on our 277/LSC have positioners already and a setting for automatic foot lift, I just don't have them set up for it. No backtack though. I'll probably dwell on it the next couple days though.

I like that answer. If your'e using a Tippman boss you're in a heavier class of machinery. Juki makes a large stitcher that's pretty similar work wise, but they're expensive. Most guys here buy Juki 441 Clones from China (Weaver leather and others sell them). That's probably your best bet. A real Juki 441 is pretty pricey, but I think the copies sell for around 2-3k.

What are you using now?

I don't buy Chinese if I can get out of it.

Thanks for the reply KGG. Yeah I think 3500 is really his "starting out" buddy price. LOL I'm thinking he'll come down a fair bit if I work on it or throw a good rifle or shotgun in the deal? Could be right, he may have paid 3500 for it new, and trying to recoup his investment. I guess that's nothing new when you think of Adlers and Juki 441's and some of the more desirable machines.... I priced a new one w/table, it's $4,450, but that's for the basic model w/o the functions. I can't seem to find a price on the -BTFL version. It's a BSC 8BL-BTFL. (Large Hook). The BSC isn't a clone of the Consew 277. I have a Seiko LSC-8 and a Consew 277 and they are distinctly different machines from the BSC. But, that being said, the BSC im looking at appears to be at least partly inspired by the LSC8/277 machines somewhat, just stretched in length and upgraded w/functions, air and larger hook.

I've been thinking to pick up a machine from an associate, a Seiko BSC. I've looked at it a few times over the past year or so and tried it out once. I thought it was pretty awesome overall. The guy that has it wants 3500 for it and of course it's a used machine. Not abused at all, but used almost daily. He's stiff on the price. Tells me he's giving me his buddy price-LOL. I've been warming up allot to some of the features on the newer machines, and this one has a few functions including backtack and it's the larger hook. Looked at an M type machine, 869 ECO but the price tag puts me off. I've also looked at a Juki 1341 and a 2342 but have no experience with either. I did like the square feed but for some reason I felt like the 1341 was a little "cheap" feeling. I want to use it for heavy binding, BUT I don't want a dedicated binder necessarily, I might want to use it for other things down the road. I have owned a few Seikos in the past few years and I've been pretty happy with the build quality. Anyone here have any experience operating a BSC? What are the thoughts on this machine? Anyone operate a binder on one? Worth 3500?

I kinda like the sound of this one. I haven't seen one in person, but sounds like it could be a good model for a little modification? The name Consew makes it sound 50 years newer!

I had 2 of those in the Classic version. They were ok/decent machines, but slow. I broke more needles on them than anything else. What do you mean jump foot with a spring?

Well, I have Seikos, Consews, Adlers, Brothers and a Nakajima that all take the 135x needle system. Half of those are triple feed. A jump foot can have the same external "footprint" of a triple feed inner and outer foot set, yet have over twice the actual surface area of either individual foot to spread pressure out on the work. If I had needle feed and a jump foot, I could just use a needle plate with a slot and eliminate the feed dog. It's just something I'd like to have. Not a necessity. Why not? Looks like the 44-9 isn't a needle feed after all. just looked it up.

Thanks for the replies men Looks like the 44-9 is pretty close. I'm dreaming of something like a downscaled Ferdinand 900B that takes a 135x16 needle. Could be cyl or post bed.

Is anyone familiar of a mid size machine that can take a 135x16/17 needle with a jump foot and needle feed? I'm thinking I'd like to have one for some really small fine work (don't want a wheel presser). Just a jump foot (a real jump foot) and needle feed only.

Yeah that was a pretty stupid part design in an otherwise fantastic machine. At least it was a good chance to tweak the feed dog height and centering.......

Well what's the harm in replying to a 10 yr old post? lol Is there a difference between the old and new boxy looking 335 in foot lift? I always just assumed it was the same machine more or less, just bloated and boxy w/bobbin winder to look more modern and sophisticated.

Northmount I got it resolved. I took about 3 hours today and looked it over/worked on it. The feed dog attaches to a plate that's dovetailed into another. The dovetail was adjustable for wear, but the screws (I thought I saw) that held the adjustable gib were on the backside. No access from anywhere outside of the machine. I had to remove the hook, and both of the feed dog motion shafts to get to the screws. I was a little surprised at the design, the adjustable gib was different from what's depicted in the manual/parts book that came with that machine.

LIK is probably right on value, at least here in the States. In Canada, it could be worth more? I've seen them sell in working condition anywhere from $200 to 2k. Amish are willing to pay top dollar, everyone else, not really. They're also not OSHA approved because they don't have a lockout or 2 hand safety switch like a modern clicker. There is an outfit that refits them to air, but they are slow and the conversion is too expensive if you're not Amish. lIK is also right about the double clicking issue and getting stuck. If you use one allot you'll become accustomed to it and learn to work around it. Might be what you need. I would not recommend one if you do much clicking though. I once bought a Reece Model A for $30 at an auction and on the way home I decided I didn't want it in my shop...Swung by the local scrap yard and offloaded it for $70!

A servo is probably a good thing if you're just starting out. I have clutch motors on most of my machines, and have even removed servos to re-install clutch motors. BUT that also is a factor of what I'm doing with them and I have allot of experience. I do have a couple servos and put one on a Seiko LSC. They're ISM and made in Taiwan. They're fantastic for the price. I wanted the needle positioner feature mostly. I bought one from the UK, college sewing I think? came in 220v. I'd recommend that option. If I remember right they were like $230? I really can't see letting a motor influence the machine you buy though? It's kinda like saying you're choosing between a Fiat and a Mercedes, but you're going to buy the Fiat because it comes with snow tires. You can change a motor just as easy as tires, lol

That's what it looks like. A wooden prop for the machine head. Some tables have these as a permanent fixture, some just a hole you stick that wood thing into. Just something for the head to lay against when you tip it back. Looks like that's what you have anyway. Maybe your table isn't outfitted for one?

Of those 2 I'd buy the Pfaff if it's not Chinese. 1245's are pretty good machines and would do anything you want. If you were to shop for a different machine I'd buy a Seiko LSC-8 or Pfaff 335 or something similar. (There are some made for binding, don't buy one of those) and use a flat bed table with it.

That looks great.

On my Consew 277r I noticed the feed dog mechanism is feeling loose. The dog and screw are new and tight w/locktite, but what it's bolted to is starting to feel sloppy. I took the covers off the end of the arm and looked it over. I cannot see any type of adjustment to take up the slop right away. I "think" i can see some screws on the back side of the slide plate but I cant really tell if that's what I'm looking at or not. The parts look pretty substantial, based on the size and hardness I can't imagine enough wear forming to cause the slop. Is there a way to adjust this out? Japanese machine, probably mid 1990s