Cumberland Highpower

I have one of those and I never use it to speak of. they're ok for some uses. They're made from a sewing machine servo motor and have an adapter to allow the use of Galli burnisher wheels made in Italy. the wheels they use are the best part. There are lots of wheels made by Galli, everything from grinding and shaping wheels, to wheels embedded with diamonds (no joke) to plain old leather and canvas flap types. I have a FCE burnisher and I can swap wheels, hot wax to grinding, etc. The worst part of those machines is that because they're made out of a low cost servo, they have no torque and at low RPMs pretty much give up. When I need to do belt tips or whatever flat work needs burnished I use the DC burnisher that's on the front of my FCE. It's about the same concept, only a better execution. gallispa.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/GALLI_2022_ACCESSORI.pdf

On a small machine like that, you are better off using a box speed reducer. The one thing I don't like about belt reducers or jackshafts is that it creates drag/resistance when you want to finesse the handwheel. You're correct about the belt alignment and engagement of the clutch. you should try to have the belt as straight and square as possible when the load is applied. Being a real low horsepower outfit, it's not really critical like you might think though. Really no reason why you can't master a 206rb with a standard clutch motor (provided it's a 1725rpm motor) with a small pulley. With a little practice you'll both speed up your pace of work and at the same time learn to slow the machine down with light feathering of the clutch.

Sure you did pretty good for $200. The table/motor has some value and the head is probably worth a minimum of $400 if it's timed and functional. Probably worth $600 total if you can prove it can sew.

It's probably just due to lack of demand I'd imagine. I run allot of poly thread and I often have the same complaint. (Poly is hard to dye). Black and white are common colors for nylon rigging/slings, etc. That's what thread of that size would be used for on any commercial scale. I'm sure any thread maker would make a run of nylon for any customer who purchases a large enough lot? I'd guess the outfits selling hand sewing thread have lots made just for that. If you have the needles, I somewhat doubt you'd have any issues running it through your machine though. I bet you could run greased masonry line through your machine if you had needles/feet/feed dogs cut for it! Most any time I come into threads larger than 277 I either sell it off or toss in the trash. Really large threads are somewhat counter to the norm for sewing leather. (One should really use as small a thread as practical). Of course if you're trying to make a bold statement larger threads work pretty well, no set rules there. A little bit of the norm on some holsters.

Sounds like a common tubular rivet? Does it look like this?

That just means you have a good machine! If it's been here for 40+ years it will probably be around another 40? I'd rather have a 40 year old Italian or US made machine than a "new" Chinese machine anyway! We have exactly ONE machine here made in China, a hot foil embosser. Every time I look at it or use it, I feel like tossing it in the scrap pile...Poor casting, machining, assembly, etc. No heat treated parts, etc. I bought it at an auction so I wasn't into it for much....

You can get spacers made in just about every configuration. +/-. I have a handful of Randall 132's. Older machines, but work just fine. They had spacers in exact lengths, undersize, oversize, etc. I tend to use single spacers that are 1/16" under that way the straps come out exact as 1" 1-1/4" 1-1/2" etc. Some spacers are also meant to cut straps oversized to compensate for what's lost from an edging machine. Spacers are also intended to be stacked. For example, you can use a 1/4" spacer with a 1-3/16 spacer to get your 1-1/2" strap. (The missing 1/16" is the width of the cutting blade). When you're calculating what spacers to use, you take the desired strap width and subtract 1/16" to get your total stack. What's the make on your strap cutter? Looks metric to me. Could also be your spacers are metric 28mm, etc? It also looks to me you're stacking spacers (At least 2 of them) that are each 1/16" under and you're stacking tolerances as a result. The 1/16" under on each spacer is the width of a blade. You can correct for that by either using just a single spacer that is 1/16" under actual width of your straps, or you can ADD a thin spacer to your spacer stack that's like 1/16" or 1/8" or whatever you need to make up for the loss if that's all you have to work with. You can as a last resort have a machine shop make you some up or cut some down. I had a relative cut some down for me on a surface grinder. Hope that makes sense?

Thanks MClark, I hadn't heard of Decocuir. I looked over the site and they look like pretty good quality creasers. I'm starting to wonder what the "French Connection" is with creasers? They're either made in France or China from what I can see? What types of goods are you using your creaser on? I might go for the creasers from your link, still doing some thinking. I'm not set on a Regad Creaser. Long life/durability/ergonomics are my main criteria. That....And being able to take the occasional impact with a concrete floor. LOL

I like your thread layout, under the table. I think I'm going to have to start doing that. The machines I want on the U tops are pretty light. Seiko TE5, TF6 and a LSC-8 binder. Now that you mention sagging tops, I need to do something about one of my strap cutters. I've got a Randall 132 on a plywood dop that's sagged enough to look like it's sitting on a banana.

Thanks for the reply KGG I've actually made some tops in the past. 4x8 workbenches and table tops for machines as you describe. I just don't really have the time to spare for projects at the moment, was hoping I could just do it the lazy way. I guess you could say both "classes" in Juki talk. Also a Markem Foil machine for Shoes on a regular top. I see you're Canadian, where are all those Canadian made tables from? Any place still in business? Local Cabinet maker isn't an option Nearest one is probably an hr drive...Maybe 2? Maybe you can get tops made pretty reasonably up there, but down here you can't hire out such work, most independent shops wont turn on the lights for less than $500........

I've been looking for a couple decent machine tables/tops over the past months and got to wondering a few things... I've probably got a dozen tables that are marked "Canada". Who made these tables and are they still around? Most are pretty heavy gauge steel, either K or H legs and darker grey paint. I'm sure they're older tables from the 1980s-90's. Steel is a bit heavier gauge and slightly heftier in dimensions than the Chinese imports. Where can I buy a couple good THICK plywood table tops? Something plywood w/Formica on top. Looking especially for a couple U cut full size table tops for K Legs... I've seen a couple U cut tops listed at Atlas levy and Ebay, but are not so thick and made in China as best I can tell?

Does this company still exist? I have some riveting machines made by them, wouldn't mind getting some drivers for them.

You know, I have one just like that in my junk pile. Kinda the same reason as yours! It's a 3450 RPM motor, that's about double what a normal clutch motor for the average sewing machine motor should be RPM wise. Are machines that need such a motor though....

That's an interesting point. I never cared for a treadle machine. I always found it distracting and less controllable. Less controllable that you have to keep a hand on the flywheel for braking more than you would with an electric motor. Of course each to their own style and preferences. I've probably watched 200 Japanese videos on youtube and the older treadles are real popular, even for light leather machines in production environments. Over there it's just because of the tradition and many don't want to pay for the electrification of older machines.

What color were you aiming for? Use Feibing's oil dye (Pro dye nowadays). Dip dye your part and lightly work any dye that didn't absorb after 10 seconds or so so it does absorb. Some dyes such as med or dark brown require 2 dye events to get a consistent shade/color. Use a quality leather!! Herman Oak is the best for dye work. Not only does it absorb dye evenly, it dries more quickly than imported leathers. Don't use a daubler/foam brush unless you're just doing edges or something real small, same for an airbrush, why would you torture yourself with that? You'll run the risk of uneven penetration and streaks, plus it takes longer if you're making more than one item. Make sure your dye is blended well and at a proper temperature. Really cold dye will not give good results.

Your bobbin tension isn't supposed to be too high, rather on the light side. That's something you need to experiment with based on your work and threads. Start with a light tension on your bobbin and adjust the top. Once you're pulling the lock to where it needs to be, see if you like the look of the stitch. If the stitch needs to be pulled tighter, tighten the bobbin a little more and then reset the top. You may also need a different needle as well. Run black on top and white in the bobbin and it's easy to see what's going on.

I've dyed allot (thousands) of holsters black after they're sewn. Assuming you use black thread, it's not a problem. Use the Pro Feibing's dye. I hate the cheaper stuff, it dries the leather more and leaves more residue to buff off when it dries out. I do the same with dark brown blends on black thread. I always use poly on the things I dip dye. If it's lighter shade you're after you need to dye your work first.

I totally agree with you about not wanting a clone. The real deals are almost always better. I remember a few years back I was at a place and saw a stack of shafts from Juki 441 clones, they were bad parts removed from new imports and replaced with what I guess must have been OEM Juki parts? I remember commenting on it and was told they were soft or out of spec, something like that. Buying a rebuilt machine isn't always an issue. Those machines were made to "make money" and as long as critical parts are tight and in spec it's good to go. A good looking machine helps allot in pride of ownership/use though. I've got a couple real dogs here w/no paint and been rebuilt a few times but still turn the $. These 1341's you're seeing for sale are like I said mostly recent imports that are refurbed. It's not really that the factories in Asia are using something better and getting rid of them, it's just that it's become a profitable thing lately for US importers to bring them over. That gravy train might vanish after Trump's Tariffs? I've myself "imported" 2 machines lately from Japan. Bought on yahoo auctions...(Seikos). The weight would be a killer on a 1341 though, probably not practical? The machine heads I bought from Japan cost $120 to ship, the other $325! forsewing.us probably has the better refurbs, is that where you are shopping? I thought about buying one from him a while back. I think the guy that runs that place is Chinese, likely where they're from? There are 341s around and I occasionally see the Nakajima parent machines for sale on FB Marketplace. A new 1341 is like 5k plus....If you call that "Industrial Sewing Machine Man" (google him) he might be able to get you a good price on a new one. He's kind of a broker/middle man.

I think allot of the 1341s you see on the market right now are imports. I don't mean imports as in back when they left Japan all new and shiny. There are lots of them being imported from Asia as off the floor used machines and are being refurbished here in the US w/paint/decals etc. Basically machines that have seen hard use and cleaned up. They're still good machines, bullet proof and all. Just not 100% what they appear

420RPM gear motor

Try looking on FB marketplace for a Consew. Sometimes I see them around the $600 mark. You can always make an offer, sometimes sellers actually want to sell! Singers are decent machine generally. It's harder and harder to find one in good shape at a reasonable price though. I've got a Nakajima 180 in the classifieds here for sale. it would work decently if you bought a SMOOTH presser foot. (You'd only need a smooth presser foot, the feed dog can stay serrated for bite as you're not displaying underside) a unison feed/triple feed machine could be a little better though for larger upholstery panels of leather like you plan to sew just in case you had some slippage.

I lost the heating elements for my Randall R-32s when we moved some of our machines. I wanted to order a couple heater cartridges, but I can't remember what I had in them. Can anyone measure an element diameter x length? I'm thinking that I might have had 22mm or 20mm heaters, but I just don't remember. Looking to buy a couple on Ebay or Amazon on the cheaper side of life.

They're good holsters, I've owned a couple and they usually just came with the gun. (I cheat, I've been a FFL/Dealer for 15 years). Too bad they have such a lead time. That cuts about 80% of the customer base out, as most gun owners have ADHD....

I tried to sign up for an online account with them, but won't let me. Tells me my email is already registered (??) and then when I try to reset password it just says "email does not exit" Exit, not exist? lol. How are you placing your online orders Tom? I couldn't find any sort of cart or purchase page. Well, I guess my final gripe about C-R today is the freight they're charging. I just looked over my invoice and they charged me $32 shipping for a 3lb billable box that was 5"x5"x3". Looking over my UPS rates It would cost me $8 (Ground Saver only $6.78) to UPS the defective wheel back.......... Windfall Profits on shipping must be the new norm, reminds me of last year when Weaver Leather charged me $26 or whatever it was to ship me a 2oz plastic ball for an Adler. (I'm also in OH like Weaver). Starting to think I'm in the wrong business.

They might be a bit awkward Tom, I guess I'll find out? I know when I use corded thread cutters it's always a bit so. I thought about the alcohol creaser setup, but I think it's too slow for production work. We'd be looking at making a few hundred creases in a day on small pieces. Watched some Japanese Youtube videos with that type of setup and was impressed though.