Cumberland Highpower

Osborne makes lots. Are/were there any Canadian made leatherworking tools?

I might be interested in the Ferdinand, just depends on the cost/model/location.

Ordered some #25TRI. Hopefully they'll work. Was looking at the hooks bobbin cases and hook retaining plates I have for it, some are marked A some B. the B hooks look like they might be for a larger diameter needle? Sound like I'm on the right track? It's a size R bobbin system.

What's the brand of the punch you pictured? It at least looks quality! Made in EU? Punches are not hard to sharpen at all, but you do need a belt sander and some practice/experience using it. (and a small ceramic stick to do a real good job). Most punches are designed to allow knock out clearance, so over time your punch will get slightly larger after dozens of sharpening sessions. I've been "tooling" up to make tools myself, but it's been a slow process. Only some prototype edgers/bevelers and screwdrivers so far. Holding out till I get a Super Mini Mill this spring, tired of old rusty, greasy cast iron......LOL

I think your 3200 would "probably" be a more user friendly machine than the full on 441 clones as a do everything machine. The longer arm on the full length machines is more useful, there is no doubt, but there is something to say for ergonomics....The longer the arm, the further you have to reach for the handwheel. I don't have any 441 clones on hand, but I have owned a few similar class machines (Adlers) and I prefer the standard versions over the 16" jobs for that reason. I'm fairly tall, with long arms but that little extra reach you have to do on the 16" machines adds up in a day's time. (That's part of why I like the old Randall Stitchers and still keep them, I can sit, do some quality work on small goods and keep my arms and elbows at the same level at a comfortable spacing). If you can get by without the 16" arm, go for your 3200. I have run 69 thread on a 205-64 in the past and had no issues, I don't see why a Juki clone would be any different? You could sew all day on a bobbin!

I'm setting up a brother Bas 342 Programmable stitcher for some patterns, and I would "like" to use 207 on top if I can get away with it. I've never run anything heavier than 138 in this machine, but manual lists a #25 needle for seatbelts and leatherwork with no mention of thread size. I've also used a special needle in this machine made by GB, that is a "multidirectional" MR needle, but I cannot seem to find them in #25..... Anyone ever attempt 207 on a similar machine? I feel like I am probably asking for too much and should know better, but feel compelled to try it out.

I think this one has a hand crank built in :D

Is that the major or minor diameter you're measuring? Using the sharp edges of your lower jaws it looks like it could be the minor? 3.3mm would be approx minor for M4 thread. M4 is a real common thread for clamping knobs. If you do drill/retap use a fine thread, works allot better with thumbscrews.

They might also be M5? On Adlers it's M5, I'm guessing Nakajima/Juki clones "could" be the same if there is any standardization of attachments. A few Japanese machines (and that's a clone) have some really odd fractional threads so it could be well 11/64-40 like 1hp said. Depends on what you're attaching name wise for the bolts. Thumb screws if you're clamping a guide down. Could be a threaded stud, etc for other things like binders.

I can relate to that. I bought a Fortuna UA some time back that was missing the trash box, so the vacuum system didn't really function. I just used it as it was with a large plastic trash can under it. Worked fine for a while. One day some thin shavings wrapped up on the feed roller and not only ruined the part i was splitting, but made a real tight wrapped up mess on the roller. I consider myself lucky that I didn't damage or break anything. Ended up building my own trash box for it from 1/2" plywood and window sealing. I also have a FAV AV2 w vacuum/cabinet and an older USMC Pluma skiver. The FAV doesn't leave any mess whatsoever. It's surprising how much trash the cabinet holds and and quickly it fills up!

Are they the same size as the R132 blades? What did you end up paying per blade?

I used to have a set of embossing wheels i had made up in that pattern for belts and slings. I lifted the idea from a K98 sling. Like someone else likes that pattern on leather. That's a pretty unique use for a laser. Only real downside I could see to a laser vs a die is that you don't get that nice bullnose (ish) edge finish on cut parts. Not that it means much I guess. Laser would be great for garment leather.

Wow that's a bummer. I like the idea of less plastic/bags blowing in the wind or gathering up in your backyard creek or parking lot...But hate to see mandates. Should be a consumer choice. Sometimes when I hear things like this, I feel a little privilege to live in such a backwards place as I do. What's the 5 cent paper bag fee used for?

DieselTech that looks pretty promising.

I think it's more of a way to get the customer to put the cart back (reducing labor) than to keep the carts from getting stollen. Only place in the USA I've seen this is at ALDI. (A German company). If you've ever been to an ALDI you'll see they have about 1/2 the employees they should at any given time. They use a quarter at Aldis. I'd definitely return the cart if a whole Pound Sterling was at stake :O I went to Lidl a couple times in Romania, there customers buy some plastic poker chip at the counter and then put it in the cart in lieu of a coin. (Or in Lieu of a Leu?)!! At least they did it when I was there last. In NY, hard to say, from what I see on tv they lock pretty much everything up, not just the carts?

Not real sure what to make of these parts? They came with a Randall R32 that passed through my hands a little while back. Could be more parts that are loose that I didn't identify somewhere around in a box. The shaft is mounted in ball bearings and has a very fine shallow slot machined in it, but I doubt it's a keyway. Any thoughts? I had made a loose guess that maybe was some sort of combining attachment? Thought I better ask here before cutting them up for something else.

Who has the best price these days on thread? Looking for alternate supplier of poly/nylon, bonded. 138, 207 and 277 by the lb. Not looking for Chinese imports though.

Ok, good on guides for the moment. Bought one from Italy that looked interesting: Fit up to the machine ok. Seems pretty sturdy. Sturdier than the Chinese KO stuff. Every bit as stiff as Weaver's Deluxe Guide. With FedEx Express shipping ended up costing $116. (Shipping ended up being a big chunk of the cost). Didn't come with the Italian made Adler 205 mounting bracket, That was extra $16. Still was a better buy than either an OEM Adler guide or a Weaver Deluxe guide ($180). Bought from Silac SRL

Nothing wrong with buying new if you have the budget. Gotta keep the factories going. If you know of any Consews that are close to being given away, I always can use a machine or 2. 277r2 227r2 or a 756R (Japanese) I could go for a Pfaff 335 (German only).

Good for you lol I guess someone has to buy new machines or there'd be no market for the manufacturers, or good deals on used machines a few years down the road.

A well used but functional machine is what the OP needs. Something cheap but functional. If a Consew is a hard sale and usually cheapest on the market, then it's to the advantage. When I was a teenager my dad bought a used Pfaff 145 at an auction for around $80 or so. had most of the paint worn off the bed and was on an old singer table. My mother made quite a few things on that machine over the years, coats/mats/covers etc. They even contracted a small run of nylon goods through me a couple years back. Did all that good and still have it. Rode hard/put away wet, probably so. That's really where a new hobbyist on a budget should start out I think.

Come on, who buys new machines?!??! LOL I was just using a stock photo to make a suggestion of a machine type. Personally, I've never bought a new machine. The most recent mid size machine purchase I made happened to be a white 277r from Japanese days and cost me $600. With Canada's busted economy, should be some real deals out there? To hear Poilievre, It sounds like it' better than 2008 for finding great deals on goodies. I've actually looked at a few things up north for sale myself and seen some good deals, but the border crossing/import kinda sours things.

Could be missing something, I can't tell from the tiny photos I'm looking at. Would probably be a good starter machine for bags/etc Reverse, I don't know. Some can't live without it. I almost never use the reverse on a manual machine, but then I don't sew large canvas goods or coats, etc. Really the ideal machine for the OP (But OP is on a real tight budget) based on the goods made would be a machine such as this: Could sew anything from cloth/canvas/denim/cordura to fairly heavy upholstery leather, wallets, belts. Small arm for reach into small goods, etc. I have the Seiko Badged versions and think they're probably the ideal "All around" machine. Of course, I'm spending someone else's money here! LOL

Wiz I kinda did the same thing, even with the adjustable guides. Only instead of a regular washer, I used a metric wave washer. That really gave me the tension I wanted, and I could crank it down tight enough to lock in place . Sorry about the wife though, probably not a good solution there? I'm not allowed to bring anything machine/leather or work related into the house....Got in a bit of trouble once when I left a strap by the kitchen door!

Well Wiz, maybe I've just been luckier than I should be, getting good stuff Attached is a photo of the roller guide from one of my UL machines. I bought this guide back in the late 1990's from Randall, back when they were in NY. (Randall Machinery, International, something like that, not Campbell-Randall). On the machine it's mounted on, the roller is just forward of the awl. It still has 1/8" of forward travel left in the mechanism, and 1/4" rearward travel available. The old UL guides had a cast flange that was part of the guide and not adjustable, I have one or 2 like that somewhere. I also have a fully machined Randall made aluminum guide that sports the same L shaped flange as this brass guide I can post photos of it as well, but it's in my other shop on my other UL and I'm not going there until after new years. We're closed for the holidays. It's pretty handy to be able to fine tune/adjust a roller guide front to back. If the roller is too far forward or too far back you can have problems feeding work, especially work with any form of curve in it.