Cumberland Highpower

I'd probably just buy this machine. I like the Singer/Seiko clones and this one has a reverse that's maybe easier to use (opinion). Don't know what size bobbin that "Typical" uses....So I'm guessing it's the "Typical" bobbin? Wonder if you have a little ability to negotiate with the merchant on price? When you ask for advice everyone has a different idea of what a machine should be used for. It's also pretty easy to spend someone else's money.... You can sew allot of various things on this machine. You can sew handbags and wallets on this machine no problem. watch bands also. A smaller diameter cylinder arm would be a plus on maybe an infrequent occasion, but this might be all you need? Heavy saddle work? No, but sounds like that's not your thing anyway. The 341 clones are a good choice but not necessary if it is more expensive. It's kinda like asking a farmer what tractor you should get to move hay? One would say a Ford, one a Deere and another a Kubota. The Deere and Kubota may have wet brakes and better hydraulics, but the Ford will move the hay bales around just the same-And for less money.

1

I'd probably be willing to pay $300-500 for really good quality, high torque brushed servo that was a simple unit like that. Something bullet proof, easy to use and strong as an ox. Doesn't really have to be restricted to a "middle-priced" unit necessarily.

It looks to me that you've just drummed up a thread on this forum to make sales of what you already market, Right? You're asking for input on "designing" a new servo, yet debate every time someone mentions a point or suggestion contrary to what you're already marketing/selling. For example when a member suggests options for supply voltages, you just jump to market your "Kenedyne" motor as it's available in both. You should have said, that's a great idea, we'll incorporate that into the worlds best heavy servo motor that we're working on, maybe we'll make it a dual voltage, plug and play unit! If you're looking to design a servo for leatherworkers to use on heavy stitchers, follow our collective advice and be open minded. If you want to add all these features including a ridiculous "jog dial" you're not really going to get anywhere. ISM in the Republic of China already has the best servo going with all those "other" features we don't really need. The ISM SV-71 650w servo is around $300. I bought mine from College Sewing machine for 189GBP ($258). Those units are light years ahead of any of the lower cost PRC made units and not all that inferior to a Ho Hsing unit. Maybe I'm a little too skeptical, I don't know. It could be something innocent like a mistake in translation from English to Chinese, or maybe a cultural communication mismatch? The members here buy Servos for 2 reasons. 1) Better low speed control 2) Needle Positioning Those are the only major advantages they have over a clutch motor and yes, clutch motors are very much still a thing. They're nearly indestructible, basic, easy to adjust, and power machines along all day, every day. I actually like the faint hum they make, you know the machine is on. Yes, they do consume a little more power, but unless you have a shop floor with 100-+ machines running, it's not an issue. If you factor in maintenance/repair/replacement of burned units as well as electricity consumption over a 10 year span, servos could and probably do, carry a higher cost. I have 21 clutch motors operating on my shop floor, the oldest date on one is 1967, the newest is dated 1993. (Most all are made in Taiwan/ROC back when that wasn't really a great thing quality wise). I seriously doubt any brushless servo would last 30-50 years?

On a standard size Adler 205 clone, the jog dial concept is a bit ridiculous to redundant. The handwheel is as close a reach as the jog dial when you're sitting in front of it. Adler has it on the 969 because the handwheel is a much further reach. A jog wheel on a standard machine is also a poor idea because of it's diameter. The handwheel is very large, and can afford a very fine control over the needle. The "long arm" machines you're mentioning (Such as the model below) with the extra front mechanical hand wheel are probably 1% of the heavy stitchers out there. I'd gamble most anyone with one of those is either set up with a heavy Clutch Motor, or a quality Efka or similar. I just pulled the first random long arm machine image I found with a Google search. As you can see this lower end Chinese machine looks like it's equipped with a either Ho Hsing servo or a close clone that's probably 5x the cost of a run of the mill Chinese brushless servo. I kinda doubt a $100-150 servo you're working on would be the right piece of that particular puzzle? I would maybe suggest not concentrating on that particular market? You're soliciting input from a forum of fairly competent people but It feels like you're debating the input? Is it that you've already designed the "perfect" servo and just haven't released it yet, and don't like what you read?

I think the Jog dial is pretty lame on a stitcher, unless you have a machine that's a mile's reach to the handwheel. LCD screen with multi function display/features is just as lame, confusing to new users and equally annoying to a seasoned one. So is the typical plastic Chinese made rocker switch/power switch that is good for about 25 cycles. What you need is a basic quality steel toggle switch on/off, a knob that you can twist for speed control (speed control only) and an option for a positioner needle up/down also controlled by basic toggle switches. (flip on, twist flip and done) Those features along with some serious low speed torque and you'd have it. An additional plus, would be one that can actually be compatible with a speed reducer and positioner at the same time and not throw an error at a 4:1 ratio. The problem with the modern programmable servos is that they're made to a price point and expected to function with a wide array of machines of various designs. Lots of functions can be a good thing, but most here that buy a "Cowboy" stitcher or something similar want simple, smooth, easy to use and lots of torque.

I think they were kinda standard across a few different machines back in the day. I have a couple Singer Post bed heads in the corner, and one is a WW machine. I think both have the same hinge system as yours. Might not be so hard to find as one could think? Wish I had some leads for you though.

When I bought my first Randall it belonged to a Jockey who did repairs down in Florida. He ran Barbours 4 cord...But not in Wax. He ran water in his lube pot. Apparently it worked. Stitching looked pretty decent and there was no residue of liquid wax or whatever. Of course that means the thread would be dry in the leather w/nothing to really protect it down the road. I never followed his advice other than just to try it out. On the UL's I run mostly nylon mostly in oil. On those machines there is a bit of a difference where the lock sets from nylon to poly. (stretch) but always works out well. What you need is 2 or 3 UL's...That way you can set one for Nylon, One for Poly and a spare for Linen if you run it sometimes! LOL

I have "one" piece of possibly solid evidence you might be able to use as a Rosetta Stone of sorts?. Solid being open to how you read into it...LOL I have a Randall with a serial just barely over 200 and someone scratched their initials and date into the machined surface front of the machine above the awl. Dec 23, 1913. I had the machine for 15 years before I noticed it under the patina. I'm guessing it's either an inspector at Randall?? or the original owner of the machine making his mark when he received it.

I've heard that for 25 years but I think it's mostly a myth? I've run hundreds of lbs of Nylon and Poly and everything is always 100%

We're making a small run of some antique type tooling. I find some of the rawhide pieces used are pretty thick. I may end up doubling up if I end up using 5/6. I looked over the link. I was surprised to see horse rawhide as well as goat. Up to this point I've never used a single piece of rawhide on anything, but have worked a very substantial amount of tanned leathers. So I can say I both "know" and "dont know" what I'm doing with confidence! LOL

What's the thickest/heaviest weight Rawhide out there? Bovine or something similar. Been looking for some really heavy sides/double shoulders but can't seem to find anything over 5/6oz....Would like to find something heavier. Any leads/ideas?

When my "work van" with a 3.6 Pentastar went out of warranty 10 years ago I started using 10w30/40. Was cheaper to buy as a generic than 5W-20. I've seen no negativity over the years and have 350k on it. No apparent decrease in fuel economy or hard starting in cold either. In a general sense it makes no difference in most applications.

I'm a huge fan of Ballistol and use it almost everywhere, but more sparingly on sewing machines. On sewing machinery I find it a mixed bag and use it for select points.

10w spindle oil is what I'd use on that machine. Many machine makers call for it. In truth you can use almost any oil including motor oil. In the past I often just used a 30w straight oil on many machines and worked great, especially older machines that I received with a bit of pre-wear. Thicker oil does tend to quiet down a worn machine a bit. Some machines actually call for a heavy oil, such as the famed Adler 205. It's Esso K68, that's essentially a first cousin to bar and chain oil. Lilly white is popular here. I find it a bit light, but many also use it for thread lube so could double up. Topic for endless debate here.

I'd probably go medium brown with a couple drops of black to darken just a shade. Dont' get carried away with the black. There might be a little light darkening at play there as well. (Comes of a bit of an oxymoron!). I've always found brown dyes to need a little work to get an even shade. Coats have to be even and given a little time to penetrate, and you may need to work in any excess that doesn't absorb just right to avoid darker spots. Use "oil dye" the kind labeled nowadays as PRO dye. Feibing's has an in house chemist, if you call, he'll call you back and tell you what to blend more precisely.

There's an outfit in Italy that made tons of those. Sold by just about everyone. I don't remember the Italian maker unfortunately. If you need parts just call Randall/Campbell, they sold the same thing w their label on it. Probably could tell you the exact maker unless it's some kind of a "trade secret." I think FIPI made those Hudsons. They might not be in business any longer, I don't know. FIPI machines were pretty similar to Atoms. Manufacturers Supplies might be able to help with the manual. They sent me a PDF for an Atom a few years back.

Probably not a bad idea to delete. I never went so far, mainly not trusting it. Seems to be a few of these online as well outside of this forum.

Are these patterns for real or are they a Trojan Horse? I clicked on one out of curiosity and I got a popup wanting me to "click allow" to prove I'm human....Sounds awfully suspect to me?

There's one that keeps hitting me up. Sent at least 3 different solicitations and follow ups....Pretty much the same MO as yours. I just say, yeah thanks I already got in touch, paid for the item and received it. Works great!

When I was a teenager, I made a slicker from a $2 motor/arbor. Took a chain saw and cut a slice off of a piece of firewood, drilled a hole and turned it down on the arbor itself. (Clamped a block of wood to table and used a chisel just like you would on a woodlathe). The wood turned out to be cherry. Held up pretty good. Still have it sitting around somewhere.

I always suspected Bianchi used suede as a liner for another reason. Bianchi bought ALLOT of leather shoulders. (Good price, good yield, not many defects). Shoulder+suede=pretty substantial holster. Suede made it have a finished look at the same time.

It looks like you already unseized your machine? I recently bought a Seiko from Japan that was seized up. It hadn't been used since the year it was made, 1986! Locked up tight, just like you used superglue instead of oil. I used a few drops of PB Blaster (Penetrating oil) on each joint, bearing and oil hole and then sat it up on blocks above a gas freestanding heater in my shop. I left it there a few hours, until it was pretty warm (not hot, just warm enough you'd want to not keep your hand on it for more than a couple seconds). I took it down and everything moved a little. After a couple extra drops, it spun freely. I don't know if you'd really need the heat, but I found it helped allot with the polymerized oil. Looks like a great buy for $20 Euro. I always liked pre Durkopp Adler machines. Really great build quality.

Controlling Multiple Motors with One VFD | Rockwell Automation | US Here's a little primer on the basics With the really cheap VFD's on Amazon/Alibaba and what not, that are pretty small, you'd probably be handicapped right out of the bubble wrap. I don't use a VFD for anything, although I am warming up to the idea. I've got one disc grinder I need to set up that is too far from my 3ph lines. A vfd would be cheaper than wiring/conduit, and it's within 20' of my 220v.

It's kind of novel. I wonder if you can find a ready made one somewhere like that? Maybe with an extension cord already built in? a cord of 20' or so would be a plus, must hobby leather shops here in the US don't have 220v outlets as a standard thing so they maybe just wire up one. If you have lots of 3ph machines, you'd be better off with a rotary phase converter and just wire your shop for 3ph. That's what I have. I can run every piece of machinery in there at once. I have 2 converters, both surplus units from DuPont that cost $200. One is supposed to be a spare, but after 15 years I still don't need it. Some machines can't work properly on a single VFD, for example a machine that has multiple seriously mismatched motor hp ratings or has motors that start and stop independently of each other.