NVLeatherWorx

The majority of my sales are custom orders and when a customer asks me to put together a quote I include every little step that is taken to design the item (which includes time required to modify an existing version that I have on the shelf), materials (which includes any waste that may exist), fabrication labor, and anything else that goes into making the finished product. Everyone will have their own way of determining their labor rate (and most are low) but if you have experience, skill, etc. that has been obtained over time then you deserve more than the typical $10 to $15 per hour that I see many charging. Add it all up, calculate your labor hours out, factor in for a profit (I typically set at about 40% to 50%) and then you can give them a number. The key is that if you are in this trade as a business person then charge that way; if you are doing it just as a quasi-hobby then low-ball your prices and have fun. To give you an example: a standard billfold that I make (all veg-tan cowhide, nothing else) with 4 card pockets, 2 large pockets, and a currency compartment that is hand-stitched (saddle stitched) and has nothing on it except a basic dye/stain and finish, adorned with my Maker's Mark starts at about $80. I have some that are already made and on the rack for cash and carry sales; they also function as the display line for the customer to ask that key question about what else can be done to them or to discuss their personal custom order needs. With the base price already figured out I can now quick quote for them what the final price would be once I have their desired specifications. I add the cost of lace (including waste, profit, etc.) and the time to do the lacing (labor x rate + profit), and any other labor or materials that may be required (following my model); now the base price is added to the extra stuff and there you go. There are some who blink but when you want me to do some extra stuff that is going to involve more materials and an additional 5 to 7 hours then you are going to pay for it; doesn't make sense to give this extra stuff away (yet so many do) if you are in this as a business. Doesn't matter if you do it as a hobby crafter; you aren't in it for the money anyway. Good luck with your quest for information on this and maybe you can share with us what you end up doing. Have a great day.

You can also get some of that stuff that is called bag stiffener and use that. I have all of my routine use cutting templates made out of that stuff and it works very well. You can also make heavier use patterns out of vinyl flooring.

electrathon is right; make two versions (price points) and use the Roo as the upscale version. Make sure you properly price both levels to ensure that you make what you should on them. cgleathercraft has said it straight as well; anyone who makes a stink over any of your products, regardless of the animal source, is not one who would be buying leather in the first place; and they darn sure ain't into anything that is made with fine quality leathers.

The best answer here is: if you are going to add any form of a second layer/lining to another piece of leather then you need to stitch the edges down, period. This is the only true way to ensure that the layers will remain intact (and attached to each other as they are intended to be) without having to re-work the project at a later date. Think of it this way: you wouldn't jump on a horse that has a saddle on it that hasn't been stitched or adequately assembled would you? I know that I wouldn't. Or, you can look at it this way: you wouldn't use that gun (for which you made the gunbelt) if all of the critical assembly points were only "temporarily" secured to test whether of not they will work would you? Again, I know I wouldn't.

The block-out resist product is not reliable, at all. The correct type of resist will be based on the type of stain that you are using; if you are using actual dye then there isn't a resist that will work as the dye is designed to penetrate deep into the leather and pretty much can't be blocked out. If you are using a stain then you need to know that they too will penetrate through a resist if it isn't applied properly or as multiple applications but again, the type of product that you use will determine what, if anything, is the best. I did a "study" of this very topic a few months ago and the results are posted right here within this very section of these forums; just search for "resist" (without the the quotation marks) and you might be amazed at how many threads come up that will cover this question.

I use regular tap water for my blend (but I do have a filter on my system so it does take out all of the yucky junk that doesn't do the body good). Distilled water is just overpriced boiled water and does nothing different for anyone or anything (aside from limit the scale but so does a filter). @JLSleather: You nailed it bang on buddy on the options and also "find your own style" format concept.

The thinning agent question will net you a wide range of responses but I use Fiebing's Dye Reducer to thin mine out because I also use their dyes (and have forever). I always oil my leather after I have dyed it and let is sit for 24 hours to properly penetrate, cure, and oxidize; once it has set I buff it remove any residual pigment residue and anything else that has collected and then oil it up. Make sure that when using Neatsfoot Oil that you use the Pure stuff and not the Compound stuff; big difference in how it all comes together. Let the oil set for 24 hours; buff again and see how it has finished up. If the leather needs some more dye then I give it to it at this time and repeat my buffing, oiling, buffing process. Once the color is achieved I then seal it all with a 50/50 blend of water and Resolene (typically two coats at least, full over night dry time in between each one). Also use Clear-Lac as a final top coat/sealer which itself has a bit of an oil finish to it; buffs real nice and looks great.

Or you can also find it under the name of Clear-Lac which is available from Springfield Leather or directly from LCI (the manufacturer).

You are correct that it is not very uncommon for people to use their oven to dry leather but the process of taking shortcuts to get something done faster does not yield the quality results that a professional craftsman is looking for. In your case you are making this sheath for yourself, but what about when someone likes it and wants you to make them one? The standards of quality in craftsmanship have to change and the item needs to be made with an emphasis on quality and proper techniques and that requires a craftsman to be patient and complete each step and phase of the project in the manner in which they are supposed to be done. Even the use of a fan that is directed at the blanks to dry them out faster can cause some issues, although, the glazing over of the grain is not one of them. The purpose behind letting the leather dry naturally is to allow the fibers to maintain their structure as the leather slowly releases any held moisture, speeding up that process changes the dynamics of the leather and can lead to a wide range of issues. Failures in how a project end up going or what the final result is are the result of the craftsman/maker trying to speed up one (or more) of the processes in the fabrication of an item (or component) just to get it done faster. This craft is one of patience and that applies to all levels of skill and/or experience; when patience is not present, neither is the desire to properly learn. No offense is intended here but these, and other forum communities, are loaded with questions about why something failed and the answers are the same no matter where you go to find them. Be patient and let everything happen naturally as the material being used here is a natural product and is not very receptive to the same processes and shortcuts that man-made materials can tolerate.

If you are cutting the belt strap from the spine section of the side then you shouldn't need to make the belt double thickness, even for concealed carry. I carry concealed along with two 15 round back-ups and have never used a double thick belt. I use only 9 to 10oz. veg-tan for my belts so that makes a world of difference when it comes to how the leather "feels" with a holster and pouch attached. The idea behind the double thickness concealed carry belts has come from the wider use of the thinner weight leathers and those pre-oiled special leathers that are as flexible as a Yoga instructor; it was never intended to be used as a base of design when it came to the use of veg-tan belt leather (minimum of 8 to 9 oz.). If you want to add a little extra to the belt where the holster and other supporting gear are worn then you can add an overlay of no more than 4 to 5 oz. over the TOP of the main strap but I would recommend that you give some designer look so that it gives the belt some style, not just thickness. The key thing to note here is the type of leather being used and the weight of the material. Chief pretty much nailed it. And I have been using mine for about 24 years and it is holding up just fine without all that extra thickness.

First rule of leather when dying (or even just allowing it to dry out) is: NEVER, EVER force dry it! Force drying leather will cause the fibers to tighten up excessively which not only makes the leather shrink drastically but it also will tighten up the grain structure enough that it becomes just about impervious to accepting any liquids. The end result is just as if you had glazed it to seal it and that pretty much can not be undone. You could possibly try to recover the leather by soaking it in water again but if you have already attempted to dye it then you most likely should start over. Again, do not ever force dry leather! You may see some others post later that if you control the heat and do this or that there will be minimal impact but the most commonly overlooked thing here is that the process of force drying also sucks the natural oils out of the leather which will lead to the leather being more brittle and result in cracks and other issues and there is always a negative impact from it, regardless of what one may think. I have been doing this for over 40 years and that was one of the first things instilled in our minds when we started out education and training in this trade. There is a reason why some leather goods tend to fail earlier in life and it is the direct result of taking shortcuts and not maintaining the standards of professionalism and quality that was once our benchmark. Good luck with your endeavor and welcome to the world of leatherwork.

As a minimum you would want the B Grade H.O. in order to ensure that such issues as you have run into aren't routine. Although there are some who believe that Weaver is a huge supplier/mover of product they don't even come close to what Tandy moves on a daily basis but that is another story altogether. I have run across a few suppliers of H.O. who list the product at an unbelievable price (lower than you would expect for something of quality with the H.O. brand) but don't give much information in the description/details about what grade it is. Don't know if it is intentional or just an oversight but it does cause issues like you ran into and, in my humble opinion, it isn't very customer friendly when not giving ALL of the pertinent details. That is just the way I see, others may see it differently and that is entirely acceptable. After all, that is what makes us all different. Hope your next side of leather is of a better quality than the last one.

For better quality leather you should think about Hermann Oak. Have never had an issue with any of their products regardless of where I sourced it from. DO NOT purchase it from Tandy though as you will be paying WAY TOO MUCH for it, there are other options. I have been using H.O. for years and have found that their hides have the cleanest flesh sides (even in the neck areas) than any other hide out there. Not bashing Weaver but they typically stock their materials and supplies from the same sources as any of the other smaller suppliers and Tandy so you really aren't receiving much more than if you were to shop in a Tandy store, the name of the store is the only difference.

Here is the answer to the gusset question: the entire main body is one piece; the front, bottom, and back (if you can really tell the difference) is one solid piece of leather. The gusset (actually, gussets) are cut to wrap the body around (so to say) and there you have it. If you look real close at their image on their site you will notice that the stitching line runs around the entire edge of the purse and you see where it starts at one corner on the top of the bag and finishes on the other corner at the top of the bag. This has got to be the simplest design that they have ever done but it does follow one of Al Stohlman's designs from back in the 50's and he apparently made a ton of them.

Not aware of a similar pattern running around in here it would be very easy to create this one from the dimensions listed on the Tandy site. I do know that the gusset that they include with the kit is a 3-piece gusset (bottom gusset plate with a side gusset plate that attaches via stitched line along the bottom gusset ends). Still, this should be very simple for you to kind of sketch one out on your own and it also gives you the opportunity to spice it up a bit for your wife as this has got to be the simplest bag (by design) that they have done in awhile.

And don't forget the quality of the actual stamping tool being used. For those who are using Tandy starter kit tools, get them replaced immediately; they are not the same quality as even the one you can buy from Tandy as a separate tool. Check your stamp numbers and if there is a "Z" as part of the number it has got to go and be replaced. The Tandy "Z" tools are the worst garbage I have ever seen and they don't give an impression that is worth squat. Ever seen any backgrounder that didn't give a good impression even after pounding it to death? The A104Z stamp from Tandy was the first one I found this with (was teaching a new student who received the kit as a gift) and couldn't even get it to pound through the leather. The moral here is: use quality tools and you will be doubly amazed at how your impressions will improve. Of course, everything else said here is true and just as important. Good luck.

Breaking into the eCommerce world doesn't happen overnight, regardless of how big the market is that you are exposed to. Just take a look around the Internet and see how many people are doing the same thing as you are. I have now entered into a battle with some Chinese group that is trying to register my domain name over there (with the .cn extension of course) because they feel "the name reflects their product" which is a bunch of crap. I have had some minor success with Etsy but that isn't my only outlet and if you look around the Etsy marketplace you will find literally thousands of shops for leather goods (a few very nice one's but a bunch of kit based makers is the bulk of it) and very few of them actually have a quality product; the same holds true to what you find on the Internet in general. You should expect the eCommerce trek to be slow as there are way too many options out there that get to the screens of consumers long before yours does and that is primarily based on the choice of key words used. If you have a truly quality, and unique, product then you will eventually find that you will be making sales but you have to be different (and original) in order to make this happen and it does take time. The myth that the online world is the new way of doing business and that business will be good is just that, a myth. It is a great source of information and for research but when it comes to retail it has been flooded by tons of businesses doing the same thing from all corners of the globe and even the big companies find that their existence on the web may increase sales but those sales are actually transacted with a face-to-face contact with the customer when they are in their physical stores. The internet and eCommerce are not the guaranteed success that the myth perpetuated. Good luck to those who are just entering the eCommerce realm but I highly recommend that you get out to marketplaces and craft fairs or like events and get your face and the product in front of as many humans as you possibly can, this is how you get to be known.

I too will do all similar work at one time. For example, I typically will have at least 3 wallets of the same style on order at the same time; I will cut out all required components and then start the detail work on the first one (and I only work on items in the order which the order was received; no PRIORITY or SPECIAL RUSH jobs as it would be unfair to others who placed their orders first); once the detail work has been done on the first one I move to the next one, and so on. I will do this for every step/process required until finished. And of course, as Dwight so beautifully stated: if people don't like my stated wait times, well, I am sure that there is someone out there who will make it for you much faster but the quality will have suffered by going that route.

Tandy Leather, they are also located in Europe. Just go to their website and then select your region for more information.

For something that is going to be exposed to the elements as much as has been implied I would recommend that you use a spirit based dye instead as anything done with a water based product has a higher risk of being negatively impacted by water. Just my opinion and I am sure that there will be someone else chime in to the opposite. I personally don't use water based products on anything that is guaranteed to be used in the manner which has been indicated.

Typically the allergy is a result of the materials used; if the wristband is made with metal snaps then it may be a nickel allergy. Most of the snaps used by the majority of individual crafters and larger producers are nothing more than plated and have a large nickel content. If you still want to line it then try something unique like denim or something similar. Keep in mind that the lining could ultimately start to separate from the leather over time if it isn't stitched to it.

First, make sure that when you apply a resist treatment that you let it dry for at least 12 hours and then apply another coat. Let the second coating dry at least 12 hours and apply a third coating to ensure maximum resist effect; let that dry for 24 hours. When working with the Eco-Flo Gel Antiques (which I am assuming that this is what you used) you need to work fast (as they dry out quickly) and make sure that you go over it with a damp paper towel/soft cloth to pull off any excess that my be lingering on the surface. Once you have the excess removed let the piece dry for about an hour and give it a simple buffing to bring up a soft sheen. Let the piece continue to dry overnight and then buff thoroughly the next day to make sure that all remaining residue is removed. You can now apply your top finish product but always make sure that after any application of a product that you let the piece dry at least 24 hours to ensure that full drying has occurred and that the product has been allowed to properly set/oxidize as required.

I have always used the 50/50 blend of Resolene and water; it gives the finished leather a nice mellow satin gloss without the plastic look that you mentioned. Resolene applied straight has a satin finish but when cut with water it really mellow's it out without all of the glare. The trick is to get a finish that has a matte/satin sheen to it. Clear-Lac (formerly Neat-Lac) also gives the leather a nice soft sheen without all of that high gloss glare. If you want it really dull then you go with Leather Balm with Atom Wax but keep in mind that the finish will have a bit of a waxy feel and look to it and you may experience some additional rub-off for a little while (depending on what type of dye/stain is used).

I have been using a 50/50 blend of Resolene and water for decades. It goes on lighter than the full strength Resolene and it also gives you a duller finish, very matte finish like. I typically apply at least 3 coatings to the leather and then check to make sure that the finish looks even, if it needs another coating or two then it gets it. The biggest thing to remember during finishing is to make sure that each application of a product (oil, dye, stain, antique paste, acrylic, etc.) onto the leather gets to dry and set for at least 24 hours. And always make sure that your leather has had at least that same amount of time to dry after the last tooling/stamping has been done before you start the finishing. Drying overnight, as most people do, may not actually mean that the leather has truly dried out or that one of the finishing products has properly dried/set; humidity and other natural factors in the shop environment can have an impact on the leather being able to properly do this. Even here in the desert environment where my average humidity is about 8% (sometimes even less) I still give it that amount of time to guarantee that the next step takes properly. And, on a final note, don't over oil your leather; it will hold that oil like a sponge if it gets too much and that will cause a whole different list of issues that can't be fixed very easily.

It was mentioned once before but I will say it again, don't use alcohol on leather. It can dry the leather out very bad and can also cause damage to the material that could lead to other issues down the road. I would also like to recommend that you try using PURE NEATSFOOT OIL as a conditioner, this product is natural and was designed for this very purpose. It has been in use within this trade for decades and has an excellent track record (proven mind you) when compared to chemical compounds that are so commonly found in use today. It is the way that we were once taught and I have been using it for over 40 years with beautiful success. It is true that all of the Fiebing's dyes in black tend to require much more rubbing than the other colors but, as stated within the content of this thread, if the buffing is done vigorously and with a motivation to actually remove the remaining pigment residue and bring a luster to the leather then you should be okay when it comes to the final steps. I am sure that by now you have been able to find a wealth of opinions on this very subject within the Dyes, Stains, etc. section (which is loaded with this very issue and a ton of responses). Good luck with your quest and let us all know what you end up using and how it works out for you.