malabar

I started using Fiebing's Aussie Leather Conditioner over a year ago and haven;t looked back. Esy to apply, creates a nice smooth finish that protects the gun. It's great all the way around tk

Dwight, I'm currently using a vacuum-sealer to to do the same job, but I'm looking for something that has a bit more "oomph." Have been pondering doing the press. Since you've tried both methods, how do you compare the degree of detail you get with each? thanks for the guidance tk

Interesting. thanks for the clarification. tk

Agreed. tk

You have to go with the liners. It's not just about scratching, either. If moisture gets onto the snap, you can have an ugly reaction between the snap and the knife blade.

Very nice. Is that chrome-tan leather? How did you finish the edges?

Would love see to see more info on how you made it. tk

I dry mine in a convection oven, and I use wooden racks to hold my holsters.

There are a variety of strategies for seting prices. I took into account Like several of the other folks, I spent a lot of time doing market research, comparing, for example, what a VM2-style IWB costs from two dozen manufacturers. Same thing for a variety of other products. zThat helped me to build a baseline. Then I considered my market -- what can I see for locally? And as time has gone by I've adjusted. Most of my holsters are $75-$90. Our three-layer gunbelts are $80-$90. Size doesn't matter much, unless you're talking about belts over 48" and exceptionally large holsters. It costs me about as much to make a holster for a PPK as it does for a 1911. The big costs is your time, not the raw materials. For truly custom work, I charge a design fee of up to $35. tk

I always cut my slots when the leather is wet, right before I mold the shape of the gun. The wet leather is easier to cut, and the outside of the slot gets a nice convex edge that looks more finished. I really like the idea of cutting them in a press, but haven't tried that yet. tk

This is my best-selling holster design. It is flat-backed, heavily molded on the front, and has a steel band in the mouth. The straps are replaceable. These are made from 9-ounce, drum dyed Herman Oak veg tan, and dried to a very firm body. They ride high and hug tight. I also make a cross draw version and a revolver version, and have made several for the 586/686. There are significant advantages to a quick-release holster, so it's worth tweaking your design. tk http://i519.photobucket.com/albums/u356/unokubizukuri/shieldcutout2sm.jpg

very nice!

Holster cant is not so much about concealment as it is about presentation. A well-designed concealment holster is intended to be deployed in a specific way, and the cant reflects that. Most of my holsters have zero cant, because they are carried at about 3:30 and designed to be used with a vertical draw to retention position -- which is the current "best thinking" about tactical deployment of sidearm. A strong-side holster carried anywhere from centerline to about 3:30 can be easily be drawn vertically by most people. But whenever you start moving outside that range, cant becomes more important. All SOB and behind-the-hip holsters have significant cant because it aids in the presentation of the pistol -- you would need exceptional mobility t be able to draw vertically from behind your back. For that same reason, all crossdraw holsters have significant cant -- it's needed to get the gun out of the holster. Finally, the user's mobility (range of motion) may dictate the cant for a particular holster. Cant can indeed increase or decrease the concealability of a pistol, but that should not be the primary consideration. tk

So our fledgling business already has a Cobra Class 4 that we use for sewing holsters and three-layer gunbelts, and I've pondered getting a second. But my wife came home from a yard sale the other day with a Singer 16u288 that she got for $250 at a yard sale. She's sewn some test on it and it seems to stitch lighter leather OK. Clearly it would not take the place of a Cobra Class 4, but I'm wondering if it might be of use for doing some lighter work. But I've got a couple of questions. First, is there a way to control the speed of this machine? It has an enormous motor that runs whenever it is powered up. Pushing the foot pedal appears to activate a mechanical clutch and the machine takes off a a flying clip. Is there any way to change speed short of changing the fly wheels? Anyone use one of these for leather stitching? Your thoughts? many thanks tk

I ended up buying one. Couldn't find a replica and they're popular in my area. Nice gun, btw. tk

One word: Superb.

Sixer, I bought one WITH the rail <g> tk

Because that way, the loop on the left doesn't obscure the stitching around the trigger guard <g> tk

Nice. Very clean design. Is the leather drum-dyed? Where do you get it? tk

Savoy, I'd suggest a couple of things..... First, spend some time testing your designs -- carrying guns in them, drawing and reholstering, etc. It will help you with some design tweaks. For example, on your Summer-Special style, I think you'll find it rdes too low in the pants for easy reholstering or proper grip. Try attaching the loops lower on the holster, which will bring the mouth of the holster back up toward the beltline. I've struggled with getting consistent dye jobs on my holsters. The only thing I've found that works well is an airbrush, but the finish is not very scratch resistant. I've turned to using drium-dyed leather, but other have gotten mush better results with dipping or rubbing. tk The edges look like they could use some work. There is some great advice here http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16609 tk

Gorgoeous work. How long did it take to make the wallet? tk

what kind of a machine do they sew those loops with? tk

Mike, i agree that there can be real issues with using "sweat shields." I'm down in Florida, and almost all of my work is for Floridians (a bunch of snowbrids, though). We sweat a lot down here, and almost all of my holsters have "sweat shields," but the primary purpose of the little leather tab is comfort. A couple of thoughts... -- This is heavily dependent on the style of the holster. The tighter the holster is to your body, the more important the shield is. Is a shield effective on an Avenger style holster? I don't think so. Is it essential on an appendix-carry IWB? You betcha. Feels like appendicitis without one. Any time the holster is being pulled-in tight to the body, a shield is essential to improve comfort. -- Body type is a factor. If you've got a spare tire and you carry, a shield makes a huge improvement in comfort. -- Proper presentation is a serious concern. A shield can't just be an afterthought, it has to be part of the design, and the shape has to reflect both the shape of the pistol AND the grip used by the shooter. I have one repeat customer who uses a a very thumbs-high grip on his Glocks, and I cut his holsters with the barest of a guard so that he can put his thumbs where he wants them. -- If you dip a holster in vinegaroon, sweat will not penetrate it. tk

Thanks for all the advice. I appreciate it. I currently use shears and utility knives. I make the utility knoves cut pretty darn well using this http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=44884&cat=1,43072 They sell a leather belt for it, which turns it into a power strop. Coat the belt with jeweler's rouge, and you can polish a utility knife blade scary sharp in a minute or so. I still think a good round knife will have some advantages, though. tk

I've been using utilityknives to do my cutting, mostly because I've read so many posts about quality problems with round knives. So if I'm going to take the plunge and try a round knife, what brand will take and hold the kind of edge needed? tk