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mlapaglia

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Everything posted by mlapaglia

  1. I looks like the leather was rolled backwards. Flesh side out. That will always make wrinkles like that.
  2. I do all my holsters and belts with 277. NEVER had a thread break on any of them. I use a 25 LR needle.
  3. Block out was a resist. You can use Resolene or and any number of other finishes that are acrylic or lacquer. Michael
  4. Julie, Well Im out of ideas, Im sure someone will be along that knows more than I do and can help you. Michael
  5. When I do a double thickness belt I stop the second layer about a half an inch before the first chicago screw hole. This allows me to fold the outer layer back for the buckle end and it winds up the same thickness as the rest of the belt. no skiving is needed this way. Hope that makes sense. My first try at a double belt, from a few years ago. It's not the best but it shows what I am talking about. The back end of the fold lays flatter when I make then now a days.
  6. How about posting a picture of the holster so we see which one it is? My reinforcement on an Avenger holster is a 1 inch strip around the opening so I can mold as much or as little as I like. I do mold a little around the ejection port but normally do not make it really defined. Word of warning, DO NOT mold tightly around the rail. You will not be able to remove the gun. Dont ask me how I know this. Michael
  7. I would suggest this for the next time. Use vinegaroon to turn the leather black, Its a chemical reaction not a dye and you can make it yourself, Then paint the acrylic over the black. If you would rather use a dye do the black first and buff the hell out of it. put a coat of clear finish like resolene or any other finish that can be used as a resist, then paint the acrylic. Both ways will work, The vinegaroon will never bleed. You can search on this site if you do not know how to make vinegaroon. Its really easy . Just vinegar and steel wool. Michael
  8. Oil your leather with a light coat or two of Neats Foot oil or Olive oil and let it set over night before you start sewing. The oil needs time to distribute through the leather. I have also stitched the leather when it is slightly damp. You have to be careful that it is not too damp because it can stretch along the stitch line. Id practice on a scrap before trying this. The best suggestion I can offer is get yourself a wine of champagne cork and press the flat side of the cork on the back side of the leather as you push the awl through the leather. It provides support to the back side and helps it not blow out. I do this all the time. I also oil my leather a day before I hand stitch. The cork really helps.
  9. That looks like Block Dying. Here is a video by George Hurst showing Block Dying.
  10. That looks like split leather, It's what is left when a piece of leather is split to a smaller thickness. Example, A 12-14 oz side and the customer wants 8 oz. So its split to 8 oz and the 4-6 oz piece that's left, the part without the grain, is called a split. it has its uses but is not good for everything.
  11. The Boss will sew up to 3/4 inches, 19mm, with no trouble. 6.4mm is .25 inches which is 2 pieces 8-9 oz leather, and I sew that all the time. It is very easy with the Boss. No trouble at all.
  12. Page 88 of Leathercraft Tools is the page you want. Personally I would purchase the actual book on this one. I find it easier to use than the Digital version. All they did was scan each page and make a huge PDF.
  13. Whats your normal markup for stuff you put on the shelf and custom work? Why should this be any different?
  14. Thanks, I could not for the life of me think of the name. Michael
  15. I would use something like wyo-sheen lacquer and an airbrush to apply it. I believe there is a lacquer that comes in a spray can but I do not remember the name. Someone will be along to give the name or correct me. Michael
  16. That ebay page I posted has 11 for $6.99USD. Unfortunatly TV and Movie costume departments have a larger budget that us normal folk.
  17. Google is your friend. Celtic Conchos. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CELTIC-CONCHOS-11-Designs-Nickle-Antique-Brass-1-Screwback-Knots-Steampunk-/130946256267 As for leather weight. If you want it stiff use 7-8 oz, if you want it to flow use 2-3 oz. For everything else use 4-5 oz. This is talking about leather apparel and not other projects. I have some 2-3 with a very soft hand,(thats what its called). Its so soft you can drape it over a finger and it lays like fabric. I have other pieces of 2-3 that has a stiffer hand. Set it on your upright finger and it folds in half but does not drape. It really depends on the type of leather and what you want it to do.
  18. YetibelleHow about showing us what you have so far.
  19. Thanks Camano. Not exactly but it will work. Michael
  20. 7-8 oz may be too thick for what you are planning. I use 7-8 and 8-9 for holsters and gun belts. It is a little stiff. You might want to look at some 4-5 for what you are talking about making. Michael
  21. does this jig taper the rivet so a standard burr fits? 6 gauge wire is a #9 rivet but the burr is undersized 0.016 for a captive fit. It needs the tapered tip on the rivet to start the burr. This is my understanding anyway. I'd like to buy one if I can use normal burrs. Michael
  22. I made a great sale and it would not be possible to have done it without what I have learned here. Id like to contribute a portion of the sale to the website however I do not know where I can do that. Can someone point me to the proper area? Thanks Michael
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