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mlapaglia

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Everything posted by mlapaglia

  1. blackhead remover, does not look sharp like an edge beveler would be.
  2. What did you use for dye? Did you buff the heck out of the leather after the dye dried? You need to buff it with clean cloth till you get no more transfer. I would still sew it after you put the finish on.
  3. Place your awl with the wide part horizontal. That will give you a straight stitch
  4. After following what Bob said, I would get a new friend.
  5. Very nice, How does it feel when on and with Mags and the 1911?
  6. On your next version I would radius those bottom corners. Sharp corners wear very fast and get dog eared.
  7. My boss sews great, the back side looks very good. There is a learning curve on setting tension but once you master it you are good to go. I love mine. 415 thread which uses a 28-32 needle is as large as you can go. I use 277 with a 25 needle and love it. Michael
  8. Weldwood Contact Cement, Red label. One of the best you can use and its at your local hardware store. Thin coat on each side; Let dry till tacky then put together. I put pieces of wax paper between the two pieces until I get it lined up just right. THen slip out the pieces one at a time and press together as i go. Works great. Michael
  9. The leather looks nice. But Ill be honest. I do not like para-cord stitching. Personal preference, that's all. The work looks good.
  10. In a world where anyone can make a fake HO stamp. Are you even sure you get what you paid for just because it has the stamp?
  11. The second video where they compare the new clip to the old style is bogus. They take a BELT clip and wonder why it doesn't stay clipped to a pair of jeans with no belt. I am always suspicious of any company that stacks the deck in a comparison video.
  12. JME1979Member Since 05 Mar 2012 Offline Last Active Jun 05 2013 10:19 AM I doubt he will see this. Hasn't been on in 2 years.
  13. Will he buy a used Asian tool from us? Is that ok?
  14. If it is crayon try a brown paper bag and a warm iron. THe crayon will melt and flow in the the bag. It works on fabric. I have never tried it on leather.
  15. Sewing is a good way. How are you doing them? Surface mount, pulled up through a slot? A picture would really help. I use a Boss too.
  16. Always neutralize
  17. I use a 1 inch wide strip of 8-9 leather around the opening. The pics below show an example of how I do it. This is an early holster but the concept of the reinforced opening is the same on the current model. It keeps the holster open and does not collapse. Michael
  18. No it will not. As the vinegroon soaks into the leather it will cause the reaction under the resist. It might limit the reaction if you painted it on instead of dipping it but the edges would still look ragged. Michael
  19. Flat, hung, or rolled. You are right, folded is bad. I roll mine and store on a shelf. Been ok so far.
  20. Stolen from google, Harness/bridle -- basically the same vegetable tanned cowhide, but the bridle may have a different stuffing (oils and fats) than harness depending on the tanner. And there's the rub, or at least part of it: some terms are somewhat flexible in their use and not strictly standardized, at least in part because the recipes and techniques are often trade secrets. One tanner's harness might be another's bridle, just (generally) thicker.
  21. Thats twice what I use. It might be you are weakening the leather fibers with too much alkaline. I use 1 tablespoon in a quart which is 1/4 cup in a gallon. I would consider backing off on the soda and also look at bridle or harness leather. How are they caring for the suspenders and belts? Are they getting cleaned and oiled?
  22. How strong is your backing soda bath? How much soda to water?
  23. What is the maximum thickness leather it will cut?
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