mlapaglia

Im not sure its common but I do it. I make a test run on some scrap from the project and make note of the tension settings. Then as I transition I make adjustments. FYI I use a Boss. Im not sure it would work on an electric machine.

Wyosheen is a lacquer type product which contains chemicals that can dissolve some types of paints or edge coats. It might be better to put the edge coat on after rather than before the Wyosheen or it just may not be compatible with that.

It might be easier if you made a holster that stayed in the book and than a second one to use outside of the book. Trying to be everything at once can be difficult and lead to a much fatter (wider) book than you want.

Depending where you purchase your hides you can ask them to put a straight edge on it before they ship. That has always worked for me.

What he said!!!!!

IF you can pull it straight and not twist of bend it at all it should come out. Personally Id take a coping saw and cut it out, just to be safe.

I have the ceramic also and it does a great job.

It looks to me like someone sharpened the long edge. The angles are not the same on the two edges. Michael

What was your Stitch per inch on the bag?

If no one buys it at $100 the seller could sell it for less if someone wants to offer less. Its a bad way to price an item but it seems to be popular these days.

Chisel or awl it should be the same. Not sure what to tell you. I have sewn 2oz and gotten the stitch to angle front and back. Someone else will come along and help, I am sure. Michael

You might try pulling the thread up/down. When I stitch I always pull the right thread down and the left thread up as I tighten. This puts the thread in to the corners of the diamond cut slot. this makes a nice stitch pattern. Depending on the way you hold your awl and the direction you stitch you may have to pull left up instead of right.

Contact cement.

Contact cement is the best thing to use. There are some water based contact cements, Tandy sells one, but it is not as good as the old standard, kill you with the fumes, Contact cement. I too use Weldwood Red label. It works. If you have a window you can build an exhaust hood for less than 25.00 USD.

Try this link. I googled and found so many I didnt want to post them all here. One of them might be what you were looking for. https://www.google.com/search?q=Upside-Down+Shoulder+Holster,&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAmoVChMIi4n9yNDCyAIVC2w-Ch0JhQi-&biw=1193&bih=635#imgrc=VqEV27pQOtbC_M%3A Michael.

A valid idea but this book is big so all the patterns are full size. The book is about 12" X 18" per page.

Jeff, So, I take the pant size, add 2", add 4", then add 1.5"????

Sure but then you get in to other issues, like, you only really need to change the width. You would have to adjust the length to make it shorter. and by how much do you expand it? At this point Id just make a new pattern. But it could be done.

Ok, With that 1911 and the Holster combo it needs to go to a BBQ. That's nice work.

A SOB holster is one of the few I refuse to make. But, that's me. everyone is different.

OK, you made me dig out my copy of the book. I Threw it in the big copier and cut out the pattern. I could not get my K-frame to fit on the width of the holster by wrapping the paper around it. Michael

The carnuba I use is a solid wax. I got it on eBay. Mine came as pellets. It's harder than bee's wax so it makes the finish longer lasting.

I cant be certain but it sounds like its the bee's wax between the two pieces of leather that is causing the squeak. Try taking bee's wax and neatsfoot oil 50/50 by weight. melt it and stir well. When cool apply to leather and then hit it with a hair dryer to melt it a little. Buff and see if this solves the problem. This is what I use for a wax finish. Technically I use 25% bee's wax, 25% carnuba wax and 50% neatsfoot oil by weight.

Is the squeak coming from the front of the belt where it overlaps?

What width belt, what kind of wax, whose leather do you use?