electrathon

I have an upholstery machine that is scary fast (about 3000 stiches per minute). I find it works great as long as I leave the belt off and turn it by hand Aaron

When working with real thick leather (like on a knife sheath) I usually drill my holes with a very big sewing machine needle. The needle does not remove leather but pushes it to the side as the hole is opened up. I hold the needle in the drill press (turn it on), this keeps everything very striaght. Strength of stitches is very critical in saddles, not near as big of a deal on a sheath that could almost be held togeather with proper glueing.

http://www.sheridanleather.com/category_s/1840.htm

Any of Chan Geers books are great.

Great looking work.

I really like this, cool idea.

Another thought I just had. You are talking about people coming to you, consider reversing this. If you are in a town and 10 people all travel to be near your class the cost of the class at least quadrooples by the time they are done paying for travel, lodging and food, plus the class. If you do the traveling it may be easier to have the class be cost efective and better attended. You could charge more (and make more). You might call Chan Geer and talk a little with him about how he does it. Also remember when someone comes from "out of town" they are an expert who knows stuff, when local you are just the local person who teaches.

This is what is left. Most are smaller and there are a number of rolodex card ones.

I have a few more left. Most are smaller circles and rectandles and index cards. I will try to get a picture of the box of them.

The tools that come in the starter kit are the worst of the worst, but they are guarantied. Return the bent tools and Tandy will replace them with another one. The replacement ones are a little better. You might have to get a heavier mallet for the bigger stamps. Aaron

I have used barge and put a heavy wet coat on the back of the piece, then lay it on the backing piece. Weight it down and leave it for a while. It will stick.

I am in. I can pick them up tomorrow (Sunday) and live in Portland). Aaron

I have a hot foil stamp machine and it works great without foil. Dampen the leather, press in for about a half second and it looks great.

Are you trying to use a sticher that has the thread in the bobbin in the handle? If so, hate to tell you but you will be better off the learn double needle stiching. they are hard to use and the stiching that comes from them usually looks pretty bad. Look up double needle stiching/saddle stiching and go from there. Aaron

My suggestion is to work with/through a local Tandy or other leather store. See if they will let you teach there. Depending on what you want to teach you can have classes for a few hours to a few days. I would suggest starting with a one day class covering the basics. A couple weeks later have intermediate class, then later have advanced class. There could be many variations of this, you would just have to see what would work with your schedule and what students you can drum up. I teach a handfull of beginning leather classes at Tandy. Some weeks I have 10 people show up and some weeks I have 1, you never know who will show up. Aaron

I like to use pig. Thin and flexable.

Use a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a brand new 36 grit flap sandpaper disc. Lay the leather down and grind along the edge. Super sharp new sandpaper is the key. Aaron

It actually goes a lot finer than that if you really want to get it perfect. I remember the crappy sandpaper that my Dad used to use when I was a kid. By todays standards it is junk, but that is all they had so it seemed good.

Remember that book was probibly written 50 years ago. Techniques that were used then are considered dated by todays standards.

Your are in North Pole Alaska! And a blackamith. You must get to help Santa work on his sleigh! Welcome. I grew up in Anchorage. Moved to Oregon.

I don't really have an answer on file cuts, but a file is a very poor choice on sharpening. Anything semi-hard or harder needs to be sharpened on a stone and not a file. Sandpaper is the poor mans whetstone and it can be shaped over wood or whatever. If you really want stones look at a gunsmith site, they have a lot of small stone shaped for polishing inside hammer areas. A stitch grover is sharpened on the outside. Drill a hole in a piece of metal and grind away to the edge of the hole and it is sharp. V gouge is sharpened on the outside.

In general 1200 wet/dry paper wraped over a steel wire (like a welding rod) is about right. You will likely have to follow it with 3200 and then strop it (use round lace with rouge on it). Only pull the tools back, do not push. Aaron

Bump to the top. There are a few care packages heading out, lets keep this going for a while. Aaron

We have a new member stationed in Afghanistan who posted some of his work. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=44702&hl= A number of positive coments were made to him thanking for his service. That is, great but I thought it would be great if a little more can be done to show support. My plan is to box up some leather and a few other things and send it off to him. Leather care packages from home. The address is an APO so you do not have to worry about overseas mailings. I have his address so anyone interested please PM me and I will pass it on. Aaron

When I have ran out of ProCarve Water/listerine/dishsoap is my standby. It smells good when you spray it.