Dink

I think I have recently traded for the ultimate ranch truck. My every day driver is a dodge cummins because I like the motor. But for the ranch truck that we use daily to feed, fence and put out mineral, my nephew just built. He used an old 72 Ford two wheel drive that he inherited when my dad passed away. He then found a 1990 dodge 4 x 4 that had been totaled due to a fire in the cab, and used the dodge 4 wheel drive running gear and cummins motor and then put on the 72 ford cab and a flatbed. This is a great ranch truck.

GrampaJoel I use them on my chap pockets. I just cut a strip about a foot long and 5/8 to 3/4 wide (I use chap leather that matches the chaps). then I roll the strip til I get to the desired size button I want and mark that length, Once I got that I use scissors and narrow down the rest of the strap to a little more than 1/4". its optional but then I put glue on the flesh side of the original width section of strap and roll it up tight and I usually clamp it until the glue sets up. Once that part is ready I use a small bleeder knife to punch a hole through the rolled up piece and thread the narrowed piece through the hole (not always as easy as it sounds)and pull it tight. I hope that makes some sense and is helpful. If not let me know and I will try to explain better or get you some pictures. Dink

I have recently been using leather from Panhandle leather in Amarillo and have so far been very happy with them. They carry many leathers and manufaturers, including Herman Oaks Dink

Try here http://www.cowpersontack.com/

We do some step in shot guns but only leave about two inches above the zipper as the step in. This just is a normal shot gun that you step into the top of and it can be easily done with a boot on since it is as large as the top of thigh then zip them down. It just eliminates the need of the having to try and bend around and get a zipper started. Dink

Ray I use one of the Heritage foot presses from weaver and can get you pictures if it helps. We went with this machine because of the die availability you can get setter dies for spots and stones, rivets, box staples, hole punches, and some others. It has really been a handy machine but like Luke said though the machine I think is reasonably priced, you can add up alot in all the different dies. Dink

Can anyone give me insight on what the below listed tools are worth. I have change my punch process and am considering selling all of my hand punches. all of these tools are in good and usable shape, I was using them daily until recently. There are a few small chips and things that come with use but overall condition is very good. I would be selling 8 Gomph bag punches from 1/2 to 1 1/4" 6 Old C.S. Osborne round end punches,I need to check but I believe the smallest is 1/2" and the largest 1 1/2" 3 New Stohlman french points 5/8, 3/4, and 1 The catch is I do not want to split things up, I really prefer to sell all or nothing. Thanks for any help Dink

I really like hilly's Idea, some elves get dropped off and are tools are miraculously sharpened over night. Dink

Elton your shop is great, I just added on to mine also but am not ready to move in yet, I will try to post pics when I do. How wide did you make your work bench? I use plan drawers like you but they are 34"wide and I am wondering if i make my bench that wide if it will limit the available reach to tools on the at back of bench. Congratulations on a great space Dink

Welcome from another coloradoan, I am up between Denver and Colorado Springs, But I do have some family in the valley Dink www.prorodeooriginals.com

Would the owner be willing to ship?

If any know of any leads or has any shoe repair machinery available at a reasonable cost, I would be interested. Have talked with old cowpoke and Bogle, but thought someone closer may have some available or have a complete set of needed machines available. please Pm or give a call 303-660-1332 Thanks Dink

Good luck with this I have also been watching for one, Canbell Bosworth has them and jack joseph has a couple you are looking at +- 4000 complete. I have also been considering the landis 16

Pete Are you parting with any of your riggin making equipment? Dink

Maybe, I have some info depending on what type of machine you got. Dink

I do mine like RWB except I use 15 / 17 wickett & Craig. these hides are generally a bull or older animal hide and tend to have a nice heavy neck on them that puts some weight to the ends. hope thats helpful Dink

Bruce I have been gluing all my tops on rope cans with masters and have not had any problems yet (also knocking on wood). I glue up both sides and let dry. Then I glue up both sides a second time and dry it tacky or a little beyond with a heat gun to activate, then put the top on and press it real good from the middle out and leave over night. I also take a palm sander to the lid prior to gluing and then clean good with thinner befor applying glue. This is probably no better of a bond than you are getting, but so far has been a succesful way of applying rope can tops with Masters cement. Dink

Thanks all, and yes the bubble around wording can be trying, on this pair with the cursive writing I glued the writing on the red and sewed it, then traced around the words at slightly over a 1/4" then cut them out and sewed on chaps. On block lettering I will usually sew it to the chap leg and background color at the same time, but not on these. The cursive took more attempts to get it to look right than I want to admit, so I took no chances. thanks again Do you usually use veg tan for wording in corners? I like how you highlighted just the tips of the placque with the blue instead of going all the way around it ads a nice contrast. Dink

OK this did not work so well, I will try to figure out how to reduce and try again

Two pairs of recently completed chaps. Apair of queen chaps that went to montana and a pair of pistol chaps for a colorado bullrider. hope you like them, and let me know what you think. Please bear with my lack of picture taking ans size reducing skills. Dink

Kevin just trying to clarify what you said about dies. The dies you are refferring to as standard clicker or steel dies, are the ones like we produce out of 3/4 or 11/4" pre sharpened steel rule that is bent and welded with braces but has an open top. And the ones you call steel rule are the ones that are either bedded or wrapped around a wooden form? Dink

Ah the down side, It took me quite a while to find the bender but between the bender, two roles of rule, the barrels (containers for storing rule), all the dies and saw, I already had welders is about a $5000 investment. I looked at this when I purchased it as a complete stand alone, additional business to my leather business. Do you have interest in making dies?

Here is a picture of the bender and the box of different dies

Azmal If you are interested I can get you some pictures of my die making machine, the one I have and am learning to use is a sandvic foot press. The metal used is called steel rule and comes pre sharpened in either 3/4" or 1 1/4" heigth and I believe they are 200' rolls. I am learning and not really profecient with really detailed pieces, but have made a few of my own dyes that I use now. The bracing I use and is used on dyes I have bought is either 3/16" strap in different widths or 1/2" square tubing. With this type of press all the bending is done cold. I use a chop saw for good straight ends, and do the joining welds with a wire feed welder. I do not know of anyone who uses a heat or forging type process to shape dyes, though that does not mean it's not done, but I believe the problem with forging dies is getting the correct temper back in your steel. I have been immediatley cooling dies after welding with water to retemper. There are places you can purchase sharpeners for re-sharpening dyes. As for clickers depending on the size of parts you are clicking, but the thickness you are using could be a struggle with a manually operated clicker. I use an Atom SE 20 and have been very happy with it, super dependable and very little maintenance. My advice is if you are cutting from whole sides, get something with at a large cutting area like a 24 x 48". You should be able to find this size in your price range. The reason I say this is that the newer clickers require both hands to operate and it can be tricky to hold a whole side plus die in place and click with both hands without things sliding. You will also find that many of the clickers out there in this size operate on 240 volt three phase power and will not run on a residential power. this will require that you either use a phase converter or change the motor. I added a rotary phase converter to operate mine. This was around an additional $450 but works very well and was relatively easy to install. That is my two cents worth but I will be happy to try and answer any oyher questions if I can. Dink

How best to recognize and meet others from leatherworker? I usually wear logo'd shirts (hope you can view the logo attachment=24609:pro_logo.jpg]