wizard of tragacanth

Really late to the party, sorry. I know a woman who has one of these. The magnet is very strong. Here is a link to the design. Unfortunately, I do not know a source for the magnets. https://www.pistolpackaging.com/Mag_Jic_Holster_p/mjc.htm IIRC, the magnet is round and approx. 3/16" thick. It is glued to a thin metal disk that is a slightly larger diameter. The magnet is not covered with leather. There is a hole cut for the magnet to protrude through. The thin metal base is glued to the backing leather and the sewing goes as tight as possible to the disk. Her magnetic eventually pulled out because there was only the glue and a 1/8" border of leather holding it around the perimeter. She asked me if I could fix it. I told her I could and explained how I would cut the stitching, glue and re-insert the magnet and stitch it back up. In the process of showing her this, she insisted that the large disk had to go to the outside. I told her that that was impossible... what would hold the magnet then? We couldn't come to terms on it so she did not have me do the repair. She had shown me this holster a month or two before the magnet pulled out, so I saw for myself that there was a shiny 1/8" of the magnet protruding from the rear of the holster. The strap that the magnet clings to has a fairly heavy, long piece of metal in it, which may or may not be a magnet. Here is another version but hers was more similar to the first link. https://jm4tactical.com/original-magnetic-quick-click-carry-holster-6-colors-available/

I like it a lot. Simple but elegant. The concho looks good! nick

Oh, that is quite a sad story. Beautiful work! All that hand stitching and so well done... I'm sure there is a buyer out there some where. nick

RemingtonSteel -- I know it was not a direct rebuttal.. it was a precient rebuttal... still valid and that's why I responded as I did. There is still a technique related to this today. It is called the "Speed Rock". Wanna see it in action?

Remington Steel... thanks for giving this clarity. It totally does depend on where the holster is worn on the belt. I mistakenly used an assumed and unspoken 3:00 position in my example. This was pure stupidity on my part. Of course, a straight drop will work at only one point on the belt. The principle that I was getting at, is that it is not a good dynamic to have to flex one's wrist to draw the gun. A straight line should be maintained through the gun, the wrist and forearm. The wrist should be locked. Then, keeping the wrist locked, move the gun to the position where it will be worn and that will give you the proper cant. In other words... WHAT YOU SAID! I can be such a Dummkopf! nick

Straight drop versus canted... this is an interesting dynamic. I used to make all of my concealed carry holsters with the "traditional FBI 15° forward cant". Then I read something, somewhere, where a guy suggested that a canted holster does not make the draw smoother, nor faster and in fact, puts an unnatural bend in the wrist and slows getting the gun on target. With a straight drop, the wrist is locked and the gun is inline with the arm as it comes out and up, and it is ready for firing. Just try these motions without a gun or holster, mimic the action. I saw very quickly that he was right... well, that was my feeling anyway. Then I put my canted holster on and really became a believer. If you try this experiment, pay attention to where your elbow goes in each instance. From a straight drop holster, the elbow goes straight back, very naturally. From a canted draw, the elbow goes out to the side and puts a strain on the shoulder... or at least in my case. Surely this is more pronounced on a holster worn with the trigger at belt level and less so on a holster worn lower, Western style. Still, it could be a factor. Try it out. The forward cant does have some benefit in concealed carry because it effectively "shortens" a larger gun, allowing one to comfortably sit in a chair or car seat without the barrel pushing into it. Also, when drawing from a seated position, the elbow is often blocked by the chair, so it cannot go straight back anyway, it must go out to the side. nick

Beautiful! Wow! nick

The cases look great. I like them... but I see that you have the same problem with snaps that I have. Even though I use the proper Tandy tool to support the dome, I somehow manage to flatten it a bit. I rarely get it right. Maybe some day, I will learn the secret, but for now, I try to avoid using snaps! Hahaha... nick

Yeah, looks good to me! Maybe you could dog-ear the corners a little bit. Mash them down and bend them inward, like they have been in a pocket many times. nick

Okay, I give up... what is CMC? nick

Yes... use 3/4" spacing for finer adjustment. You may also want to use oblong or oval holes on leather of this thickness. It allows the leather to lay flatter in the buckle. Here is a 2" wide belt that I made many years ago. Seven oval holes with 3/4" spacing, dyed with vinegaroon. BTW, this is the first belt that I ever made for another person. It looks short because it is so wide but the belt is 34" IIRC I learned a great lesson with this one. They told me to make a 34" belt. I said that I wanted to measure them but they refused and said, "Just make me a 34" belt and it will fit". Well -- it didn't. Never take someone's word for it. Belt size, pants size and actual body measurements are not the same. Then you have tucked in shirts or whatever. Also, the thickness of the leather, combined with belt width is a huge factor. So, if someone wears a 1" wide, 34" belt that is made from 1/8" this leather, you cannot get an accurate measurement from it, if you are making a 1.5" wide 3/16" belt. They will likely need another inch or two on the length. nick

6 or 7 spi with 0.8 or 1.0 mm thread works well for holsters but I don't know if that is appropriate for saddles... or not? I would hope to get a saddle maker's thoughts on this, to be sure. nick

Looks good, Frodo! I'm sure your friend will treasure this thoughtful gift. nick

A picture of your results may help us diagnose your problem. nick

That looks really nice, Chuck! I would worry about this rig pulling off the belt loop of your jeans though. I would some how terminate the strap with a loop that your belt would pass through, for a stronger, more secure connection. At this point, you could make a leather belt loop with a D-ring to accept that snap hook. This would maintain the ease of removing the holster without taking off your belt. nick