bruce johnson

Shelly, I wear the progressives too, and can never tilt my head just right handsewing anything. I used to make fun of mall-walkers and people who looked over their glasses. I don't do the Sears to Penneys laps yet, but I look over the top of my glasses a lot. As far as magnifiers, I have used a few different surgical loupes that fit on glasses, and the flip-down that goes on a headband. I am with Troy. My favorite is still the Optivisor I have used for 25 years. It flips up or down with the back of your hand or arm, is tolerably comfortable, and the lenses are really pretty decent. Most affordable to try for sure. You can wear glasses under it if you need to. Like I said before, I usually flip it up to find the tool or instrument, and then forget to flip it down to use them. I tried a knockoff with a light source on either side, didn't like it. Enough spread to have two lit areas on either side of where you really need it.

Shelly, I am with you on the bifocal deal for sewing bindings and horns. They aren't designed to tip your head in that direction. I use the magnifiers for some surgeries. I have used from the low end Optivisors up to good quality clip on lenses. The problem I have with them mostly is that they have a fixed focal distance. Some may be as fixed as 16-18". If you are outside of that, you are blind. I can see the area, and not be able to tell one tool in the using rack or one instrument from another. I look around or under the lens to find them, and then continue to look around the lens to use them. We gave a ride back fromKings reception at Sheridan to a guy from Kentucky. He was there selling kind of a decent little light and lens setup. His business is QED, Inc. They advertise in the LCSJ, and I just found a web address - www.qedisit.com. For lights, if I need a focused area light, I have an exam room floor lamp like the doctors blind you with in the little rooms. They are a floor lamp with a stiff gooseneck up higher. They can be had at medical surplus and used medical equipment suppliers. Kind of handy around a sewing machine at times, and will really light up under a Cheyenne roll. If they are not shining directly at you, they are good.

Noah, I had an American splitter. I haven't owned or sold a Landis splitter. The American feeds from the back and the blade is on the front as you crank it. The Landis 30 I recall (and the ebay picture backs it up) feeds from the front and the blade is in the rear. My experience is that the American feeding from the back (and the advice of my old tool pal who was in the leather business for about 60 years) is more versatile. As I said in my other post, softer leathers, even 10 oz latigo, can wad up against the blade and not feed well. You can tension it a little from the front and help pull it through. Actually for most latigo I would start it with the crank, let go, pull it through, and let the handle freespool. That is harder to do with the Landis. My nod went to the American. I bought an Landis crank skiver and that will never leave my shop though. The downside with some Americans - there was apparently a minor casting issue with some of them. The table the blade sits on and bridges on some has a bit of a "bow" to it. When tightened to the frame some of them developed a hairline stress crack over time . Once the blade is in place it bridges that. I have seen it on several of them. Some guys have fixed them. Others left them because they are solid enough with the metal and blade, they aren't going anywhere. I heard about that casting deal from the guy at Pilgrim Shoe and a couple others too. If you get an American without a crack, that is a plus. Mine had a crack and a shoe shop bought it for something like $585. The crack didn't bother them. As far as resale, ebay seems to set the price standard now. Nobody is stealing any of them there. You can buy them from a guy like Keith Pommer, Ron Burkey, Bob Douglas has had some at times, and I'd be pretty confident. Just depends on who is selling and how fast and bad a guy needs one.

Steve, This saddle was bought in a San Francisco bay area shop or at the Cow Palace in the early 70s as the memory goes. The entire back cinch was carved, under the gullet - there weren't a lot of unstamped areas.

This is a saddle that came through the Cowboy Antique Roadshow today. It is an unmarked saddle, but we have some suspicions who made it. We have some pics going out to some collectors who might have an idea too. I thought the border was kind of an interesting use of the Carlos border tool. It was stamped adjoining to make the dot in the center of the impressions.

Blake, Here are some from the appraiser's collections. Some people are pretty funny about having their individual items photographed. I am posting a picture of a saddle over in the saddle section. It has an interesting Carlos type border stamp pattern.

Randy, Hansen's have a lot more than is on their website. Best to call and get a catalog and current price sheet, unles you know what pattern you want. I'll agree with Russ, Dale is one of the secrets of Texas. He does some really nice work, and is a good guy in the business too. He puts out a little catalog and worth having that too. There are a lot of guys doing silver, but for the affordable/quality combination these two suppliers are right up there.

Blake, We are doing the appraisals again today. I'll get some more pics of the bit and spur collections. Some of the people coming in with items are apprehensive about having their items photographed, some don't care. A couple of the reatas are Ortega, and some reins too. Bits and spurs are Morales, Herrera, Figueroa, Estrada, Gutierrez, and others.

Thanks to several here who have visited our museum's website since the original post, and some bought tickets to help support us and help out in the Cowboy Capital Challenge. We had a great National Day of the American Cowboy celebration here today. We had a silversmith demonstrating engraving. I am a sucker for jewelry for my wife, and Rundi is sporting a new cuff tonight. We also had a braider demonstrating and that was excellent. The highlight of our celebration the last two years was the Cowboy Collectible Roadshow. This year followed true. People bring in items for appraisal, and it is always exciting to see the treasures that some people have. Some nice old California bits as usual, a couple of special Hamley saddles, and the highlights were two prison made hitched horsehair headstalls in super condition. They came in back to back. Our appraisers also bought some examples from their personal collections. Cools to see all that old stuff in one place. I am attaching a few pics from their collections. More appraisals tomorrow. BTW, Oakdale CA won the challenge vs. Stephenville TX, and we are the Cowboy Capital of the World. That would explain my excitement in the fourth pic as it was announced. It was a fun contest, and both areas got a chance to showcase their western heritage and future.

It all depends on the conchos. The standard Chicago screw posts are 8/32 that I get. Some of the Tandy conchos I used to use were metric too and I needed longer screws than were provided - they were 4 mm. I got some conchos that the screws were smaller but the ones provided were long enough. Maybe 3mm? Most of the bigger hardware stores carry the metrics. I found some of screw part of the Chicago screws with the flat thin heads at Orchard Supply Hardware. They are a big hardware kind of store out here - subsidiary of Sears now. The screws were in the oddball fastener/fittings drawers. They had them in some major lengths too. In a pinch I have also use drawer pull screws, the heads are a little flatter than normal machine screws, not as flat as Chicago screws are regularly though. They come in some really good lengths too.

Noah, It all kind of depends on where you buy these. If you buy from Ron, Keith Pommer, Pilgrim, or guys like that, you are probably getting something that has been gone through and is ready to go to work. I have an old friend who trades in these kind of bench machines too. It takes a box of parts on some to go through to get another working. A guy who is pretty handy can strip them, fix them, machine any parts needed, and sharpen the blade. They do show up on ebay fairly often. I sold a pretty good American last winter there for just under $600, if that will give you kind of a benchmark for price. A good Landis ought to bring more. There are several styles of splitters out there, and the reason I sold mine was that I found I liked the Chase patterns better. On the hand cranks, softer leather can wad up against the blade and not feed very well. On any of the pull-throughs it is not a problem. Where the handcranks shine is splitting heavy hard leather. They are sure not any faster for me, in fact slower than a pullthrough for most splitting. Someday I'll probably replace one of my Chases when I find the right Krebs at the right price.

Tae, Not to dissuade you from ebay stores and sellers, but I have bought pretty much the same wing dividers at Orchard Supply and Harbor Freight for less money and no shipping charges. There are several tools that cross over into other crafts. Another source for tools is antique stores. I have found very few antique stores that don't have an old keg o' tools or wooden tool tote that don't have decent wing dividers for a couple bucks. I recently bought a set of 24" leg dividers at one for $7. That was a find, I didn't even ask for the customary 10% discount.

Ray, There are folks here who know a whole lot more about leather chemicals than me. I think Lexol is a sulphonated neatsfoot oil. I am not sure if it comes under other trade names that might be available there or not. I would anticipate the Listerine called for in the original mix is the plain old brownish looking stuff from the old days. I am also thinking eucalyptus oil, tea tree, or some of the other reported natural antifungals might be fine. I have heard that one of these is the antifungal in ProCarve. Who knows. Regarding the saddle soap. Apparently in the good old days of the old soak until drowned leathers, saddle soap was purchased in buckets by some shops. They soaped leather to block out pieces. They soaked it and soaped it again to swivelkinfe and tool it. The problem I have with it is that it resists dye somewhat. I have had dye roll off the lettering then soak right in an inch from where you laid it, black can become violet, etc. I don't use it anymore for something I am dyeing, and really haven't used it since I started the other mix. As far as burnishing effects you can get a somewhat similar effect from antiques and HiLiters too. I have been using a diluted HiLiter to bring out dec cuts and deeper lines.

Regarding ProCarve. I used to use it for the mold inhibition properties. In my old shop I had a heck of a mold problem. It was a very small shop, and I can trace it back to taking apart an oldy moldy saddle. Green dust poofed out of it. After that I had a problem and ProCarve stopped it. I had a guy from Louisiana tell me at a show that he had a customer tell him his finished headstalls didn't get moldy in the trailer and tack room like they used to. He traced it back to starting to case with ProCarve. Since I moved to my new place, I kind of got away from the ProCarve and haven't had a problem. Probably a resident spore deal. I have a before and after work schedule. I generally case overnight. I cut, tape backs, wet, and bag overnight - which is about 5-7 hours in my case. I do my sewing and finishing work after that. I do my carving and stamping early mornings usually to fit my schedule - nobody else home and few people stop by between 3:30 and 6:45. I was using plain water and getting by OK. When I was using the lighter weights of HO (under about 7 oz) I found that a longer case made my basketstamping round up a little nicer. Not so much of a difference on the heavier weights. Those I could slather on water or PC water, let the color come back, and go to pounding. I tend to do a lot of stamping and like the leather to be more to the dry side for better burnishing and rounding of the unstamped areas. This baby shampoo/lexol mix seems to hold the moisture longer for me to stamp bigger areas without rewetting. If I need to, I mist more on with a spray bottle. To my eye, I get a little more tool burnishing with the mix too. I recently did a photo album, cased about 8 hours and was really looking good right up to the part where I mispelled the guy's name. I did a quick case on the second one, and it came out OK. Took a little more maul to get the same effect with the Assoc basket, but the floral corners are identical.

Shelly, Third time to reply will hopefully be the charm. The cyberspace dog has eaten my reply twice. First off thanks for rejoining us and posting the pictures. I favor that border stamp also. Looks like the edging lesons worked, and the the entire saddle looks good. I like the color, and the antiquing sets it off nicely. Cool story to go with it too.

Rolf, I can appreciate your enthusiasm for the Boss. I had one of the early ones, and they will do the job. However they do have the drawback of not being powered, a narrow throat, and require one hand to run them. Tedious on production or even a single set of doubled and stitched reins. They are easy to operate and learn. Once I go the tensions right on mine, it seldom needed tweaking. However I am going to respectfully disagree with your statement that they are the only real sewing machine for western saddlery work. They will sew whatever you can cram under the foot. That said, I have had good results sewing any type of saddlery work I needed to do with an Adler 205. Likewise with my Pro 2000. I am pretty sure most people are very happy with what their Artisan 3000s and 4000s will do. The servo motors and speed reducers provide all the power and control I need. To back up, there are quite a few who like their Pearsons and needle/awl machines too. The Boss fit a niche when it was introduced, nothing else had its capacity within $2000 of it. Not the same story now, but it still is solid little machine.

Savage, Scrap management has never been easy for me. I use the plastic totes and underbed storage containers mostly. I sort by type of leather and not size. The exception is scrap skirting, I sort into long pieces for strap, pieces larger than 6" square, and smaller that 6". Storing cutting patterns was never much fun either. I stored them in underbed totes, and it was a pain to organize and make sure they got back where they belonged. A couple months ago I visited Ken Nelson's shop. He was using a map/drafting file. I came home and checked out a local new and used office furniture warehouse. They had two scratch and dent drafting files that I bought. They are really pricey retail, but since they are not a big mover - dirt cheap when cosmetically damaged. They fit under my benches and so no big change in shop layout. My cutting table is actually an old military surplus desk. I slipped lengths of pipe over the legs to raise it up to the right height. The drawers are handy for storage, and a scrap tub fits underneath the center.

Johanna and Kate, Thanks for all you both have done behind the scenes today. It was trying and ladies, . This has not been a good night in the shop, and I just deleted about 10 encouraging emails from members earlier wondering what was going on -sorry. For those who sent me emails, feel free to send them to the real heroes - Johanna and Kate.

Storm, Really glad to be able to reply to you. Really glad. Now if you do start to get gaps, I will use a flat bladed screwdriver tip to bridge the gap between the legs. I have also done some with with a set of different size baskets with the same center pattern. I started off in the center with the smallest, and as I worked to the outside, I went to the next size up as I got close to gapping. I got a whole rope can done (15" diameter") and made it work. I had to add some "centers" as I got bigger, but it was fun challenge.

Of the hydraulic stands, Ron Edmonds makes the best in my opinion - www.ronstools.com. It is heavy enough not to slide when I hit against it. The top is shaped for a tree to sit in and stay on it, not a neoprene covered plank like another maker has. The drawdown strap is attached to the post, not the base. You can raise/lower/turn it withough loosening the strap and readjusting it. The tension is separate from raising and lowering it. Got the cantle sewing attachment to raise it for sewing, and you can see under there. Very worthwhile for me - I do a lot of repair work. I also bought the overhead laser for shooting crosshairs for evening up rigging installation. I don't like that it is attached in the front, I tend to catch on it without the arm in place, and the laser can shift (magnetic base on metal arm) and throw you off. I probably wouldn't get the laser deal again. My wife talked me into getting this stand at a leather show, and it has replaced two wooden drawdowns (high and low) that were good, but I have never looked back. My shop is small, and this stand takes up less space that either one of the two it replaced.

Charley, I can agree with you also. On the other list I gave a mild another-way-to-do-it on an item I had done well over 200, and wasn't selling kits or class space. It wasn't even a critique of their show-off piece. Not sure how many the person had done, but their method was limited and cumbersome. I got a scathing offlist email reply from someone that all I do with my all posts was to stifle alternate thinking, come down hard on new crafters, and discourage others from posting. This particular individual still sends me BS offlist crap when I post to that group, and I now consider them a source of entertainment. They have recruited a couple others who do it on occasion also, often using the same phrasology so there is little doubt of the origin. I since have sent my critiques and suggestions off-list for the most part. I did make a mistake and sent Art S one on-list one time. The scathing off-list reply came in just before Art thanked me on list for being honest. On this particular forum I generally go PM or email, and receive several emails and PMs on my work from guys I respect the input too. I think that some people don't want to come across as high and mighty, and unless brutal feedback for a critique is requested, it is hard to know how someone will take it. There are some great people on this forum, and there is a lot to be learned here.

Ahhh, these are for rodeo guys to carry their ropes from one event to the next and keep them clean, organized, and protected. Think of them as a case for a shotgun for the trapshooter, or Tiger Woods' golf bag. Calf roping (now the PC term is "tie down roping") is a timed rodeo event. A rider starts from behind a barrier, the calf is let out a prescribed distance, the barrier drops at that "head start" distance, and the rider chases the calf. The calf is roped, the rider steps off his horse, runs to the calf, lifts it and lays it on its side, ties three legs together to keep it tied down. A good time for doing this is 8-10 seconds. The rider remounts their horse, slack is given in the rope, and if the calf remains tied for 6 seconds, the time if official. The ropes used in this event have a softer feel, and the good ones generally will last for 40 runs or so before they start to wear and lose the consistant feel. They generally sell for about $35 each. They are powdered to be slicker and pull up faster once it goes over the calf. LIke I said yesterday weather affects them especially the grass or grass blended ropes. they can get really soft and have no "life" and close up as they are swung and thrown or want to remain stiffer and hold a coil pattern like new fishingline or a garden hose. Hence the drying crystals or washrag for humidity. These are the guys that use the cans. A custom or trophy rope can just makes the statement that "This is mine, and I am here to win". This event developed out of roping calves on the ranch for doctoring, tagging, branding, and processing. Team roping is another event. These guys are roping steers with horns. There are two partnered ropers in this event. Again they start behind a barrier, and the steer is given the headstart. One roper (called the header) will rope the steer around the horns. They will turn the steer's direction and lead him off, generally in a large counter-clockwise arc. The second roper (the heeler) will ride behind the steer and rope him around both back feet. As the heel rope comes tight, the header will turn his horse so both ropers are facing each other, and the steer is stretched between them. That is when the time is called. A good team roping time is 5-7 seconds long. These guys use nylon ropes, less susceptible to weather. The headers use a rope that is spun a little looser when it is made. It will have a softer feel and pull up around the horns quicker and not be as prone to bounce off. Heelers use a stiffer rope, so the loop will stay open more when they throw it in front of the back legs of the moving steer and he will step into it. These guys usually carry their ropes in soft side bags, and may carry several ropes, depending on wind (heavier rope vs. lighter and faster), the shape of their steer's horns (softer and quicker for small horn spreads), and what they like. This event was developed to simulate catching and doctoring large cattle in a ranch situation. Calf roping is a younger man's sport. Getting off a running horse, lifting a 250# calf, laying it down, and tying it's legs are physical. Old guys still do it because they are either really competitive, rope in senior divisions, or do it at home to train horses for the guys going down the road. Actually when I was in Indiana, I went to a lot of calf ropings in Ohio. THere are/were some really good calf ropers there in the early 80s. I roped at Columbus at the Quarter Horse Congress, and at Washington Court House, Fort Recovery, Coshocton(sp?), Hilliard, Eaton. I was in the Indiana Ropers and Bulldogger's Assoc. and we had weekend calf ropings all over Indiana and year end high point awards. Team roping is something for all ages. You don't get off, basically ride your horse, rope, and catch a steer. Not as strenuous. It started off as a west coast event, and has spread nationwide in a big way. There are several associations besides rodeo that exist for team roping. Young kids, ladies, families do it up to ancient guys. There divisions for the beginning roper to compete with each other up to seasoned top guys. Families that 30 years ago would have gone to the lake, go to team ropings on the weekends now. There are weeknight jackpot ropings, kind of like beer league softball games. They put their money into trucks, horses, trailer with fancy quarters to stay in, and hopefully custom rope bags. There are national team roping associations (besides rodeos) that have regional or state divisions, and the top placing riders qualify for an association national finals. There are a lot recreational ropers who have a roping arena at home to practice, have friends over, and play around with it. Much like a guy might take up golf, people start team roping. They probably have no ranch background, but they are chasing cattle, having fun, buying the stuff, and living the life of their dream. Some get pretty darn good and competitve at it. One guy summed it up. Cowboying is the only lifestyle he could think of where a guy who earns $150 thousand a year dresses up and wishes he was like a guy who makes a thousand a month and is perpetually broke.

Happy birthday Johanna,

Tim, Thankfully they are a fad that seems to be going away out here. There are some that ride them, and they will buy every gimmick that comes along, feed every supplement and neutraceutical available, and have a trailer load of bits to run 4D times. I won't address the soring issue because there is at least one person on the forum who knows a whole lot more about this than I do. Regarding the second question - no doubt a fad, and I have yet to see one with any semblance of decent workmanship or structure. There are people who buy saddles based on who endorses them. Most of the endorsers are not riding their endorsed model when the bucks are up. As far as not making the rider feel like a moron. I just refuse to work on them when they start to fall apart. Someone probably has found a way to fix them better than when they are made, but I don't want that liability. Good saddles can almost always be repaired, anything less is disposable.