ReneeCanady

Love it! Well done!

Vintage C.S. Osborne draw gauge marked Newark, NJ.. This tool could use a good bath, but I am not going to attempt that It also still has a blade on it. The blade is dull and I don't know if it's the original blade or not. Selling it for $110.00 with free small flat rate shipping within the USA. I will have to take the tool apart to fit it in a flat rate box. PayPal only please.

Wow, Troy, that's pretty interesting! I will have to try this some time.

Yep. Many resists out there to do the trick. I have had bad experiences with the product called Block Out. I personally use Resolene/water 50/50. Some others use Wyosheen, Super Sheen etc..

The light color you see on the projects is the natural leather with a finish on it. The antique (stuff in the grooves) is more than likely med brown antique paste by Fiebings or Eco Flo antique gel.

Ray, It makes me sad to read this post Ray. You are such a sweet guy and I would really hate to see you leave I understand paths in life take us in different directions, but I hope you stay on the forum to chat with us once in a while. I hope all is well on your end! I will keep you in my thoughts as always! Renee

I just did a quick google search and it actually brought me back to this site lol. Here is a link to a nice pattern a member here posted. I would contact him first, he may have more http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=52011

Thanks again Leela! Afro, I am confused by what you mean how? Like how are the sides connected to the bag? If so, you have to gouge the gussets so they fold and meet with the body of the bag. Contact cement them in place first and then you can stitch without trying to hold it together. It looks like one piece of leather and maybe that's why you are confused. It's not only one piece, Leela did a great job finishing the edges. As for the how to saddle stitch, there are many tutorials out there to learn from. This is one of my favorites to view on youtube and he is a member here as well.

I wish I would come by an estate sale like that. They would have a hard time getting me to leave lol.

That's a pretty good deal! I just ordered my maul a few weeks ago

Very nice Tim! I love everything about the belt.

Here's a start. http://www.armourarchive.org Then go to the patterns section.

Thanks Raven! Lots of good advice there! Oh man, I remember my first attempt at actually making a cup lol. I used rice packed in socks to what I thought was about my size. I then nailed the rice balls to a board and wet molded around them. Boy I was wrong on the size! Good thing is that it fit my youngest daughter really well and she now has a nice set of armor Out of all the pics I have seen online of leather bust cups, the ones that are done with two pieces look the best to me. Prince armory has a really nice set up of female armor. I love his designs and tooling, but something as small as a cup can be frustrating. He seems to have nailed it though! Oh one more blabber while I am at it.... I think the corset back to yours is very attractive! Also, the straps in the front have a little curve to them and I think that would be much more comfy than a straight strap like I used. I feel pretty restricted in mine. If I wore mine everyday I would have great posture haha. Keep up the good work, it's always interesting to see what you post.

I think you did great, especially for your first attempt. Here is a link to Bob Park's casing leather tutorial. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19121 Also, a blade that is not sharp/stropped will cause jumping as well. You have to strop your blade even if it's new out of the package. They usually come sharp to the touch but not stropped or polished.

I like this design a lot! I like this design way better than the one I made for myself. It took me a while to get the pattern correct. If you were to get orders for larger/smaller sizes for this where you would add/subtract the measurements from? The side? I made one of these for myself as an accessory to my pirate costume. I tried in on 3 of my daughters. The smallest wears an x-small juniors size, the middle daughter is a medium juniors, and I am a large juniors. It seemed to fit us all. I asked my oldest to try it on and there was no way in heck her breasts were fitting lol. So I guess my question is, if you are making it larger and didn't have the person standing there to size, how would you adjust for girth and breast cups?

I bought this today because someone else was recently talking about them working well. The cuteness helped the sale a lot LOL It's 3"x1"

Hmmm, light grey! Even better

I like this a lot! Love the white stitches on the black leather too!

Troy took my line lol WOW! Nice job lrb!

Hmmm, now that I see that, it makes me think they used the method people use to sew some shoes. Not that that was much help because I don't know how to do that either. I say they have a pixie hiding in their shop with tiny pixie hands and magic dust

8414 Craftool Co. USA “T-Rex” ©1989 8415 Craftool Co. USA “Brontosaurus” ©1989 8426 Craftool Co. USA “Pterodactyl” ©1990 These three are sold.

There are lots of youtube videos that I have seen out there. I know Tandy and Springfield Leather carry a few books on briefcases and such.

AHHH!! Now I see it....I think lol. I was so trying to see it in another direction. Thanks Nigel!

I totally agree with WyominSlick.

Just floating around the forum and saw your question. I am not sure if you ever got an answer or not. I use a 50/50 mixture of resolene/water in thing layers. Approximately 3-4 layers. Allow each layer to dry before adding the next. I let my final layer of the mixture cure for at least 24 hours, more if I can. You always want to let your resist fully cure. I have also read and seen lots of great resist work come from those that use Wyosheen. I have never tried it yet, but I plan to someday.