Constabulary

When it works w/o needle plate I would guess the feed dog is hitting or rubbing on the needle plate so you have to lower it a little bit. Right feed dog hight is when the feed dog sticks out of the needle plate approx. a tooth hight or approx 0.8 - 1mm Also make sure the little tongue of the bobbin case is inside the notch of the needle plate This just a suggestion since I don´t the machine in front of me. I also have attached a 563 manual that came form Keystone Sewing Machine Co. It maybe helpful for the future. Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf

The Singer 144 are very similar http://www.singermachines.co.uk/indstbooks.htm http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/SINGER%20SERVICE%20BOOK.htm

I once have sent Leder Elbert a request for a die but never heard from them. Try this seller: http://www.brandt-stanzmesser.de/pages/stanzmesser.html I have not bought dies from him but was in his shop when I picked up a small pneumatic clicker - he has a nice machine range! Also a nice person to talk to - really! When I will need some dies he is the first one I will ask for a quote.

I doubt you will see a difference in the stitch pattern. Both machines are using the same needles. So it pretty much depends on the thread and needle combination and the top and bottom tension. I would not consider the 132K6 as compound feed, it is a top and bottom feed machine. The CB-105 is a pure drop feed (bottom feed) machine. I´d rather consider the CB-3200 compound feed machine. I think it will serve you better. There are at least 2 dealers in Australia who can support you with either machine (I think) One is Steve's Industrial Leather Sewing Machines I don´t know if they have a website but he is member here - member ID is SINGERMANIA But they are on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Steves-Industrial-Leather-Sewing-Machines-345144232177296/ The other is Darren Brosowski from ABLE Sewing I´m sure he will jump on here pretty soon

One question is do you need a flat bed or a cylinder arm? The 132K6 is a flat bed machine and the CB-105 is a cylinder army machine as it seem but you probably can add a flat bed attachment. The 123K6 has a large rotary hook and the CB 105 and osculating shuttle hook. I don´t know the CB-105 (or Cowboy 2500?) but it appears to be a Singer 45K clone and when you buy it form a dealer with good reputation I´m sure the machine will serve you well. Advantage of the CB-105 is that is has reverse the 132k has not. Where are you located - USA, Canada, Australia, Europe?

Pictures always tell more than 1000 words. I guess you have the parts list for the Pfaff 38. If not google is your friend Pfaff usually has nice detailed exploded view drawings so you should see what parts belong to the tension unit and how it is assembled.

I don´t know the Pfaff 38 but I once had a 138 - I doubt there belongs a pulley or disc or something else between the tension discs. Are you sure the machine is threaded correctly and the thread regulation spring is present and functional? Pictures of the machine are always helpful Zero motion is the centered position of the thread length adjuster / reverse lever and at that position the feed dog should not move at all - except up and down.

What I have observed that an SV machine is nothing else than a standard machine with just some additional or different accessories / attachments than the standard ones from the shelf. I doubt they had extra hardened parts or so. But thats probably a nice story to force a sale - my opinion. I have a 34KSV5 and I know someone who has a 34KSV6 - both machines appear to be the same. I guess they once just were equipped for a special sewing operation but it´s impossible to track back what it was in particular.

Anne Clark as well... I guess the ChiCom machines work best with this kind of music We are a bit off topic I think

When my Singers are in a bad mood (happens seldom) they seem to like The Doors (Brake on Through) and Rolling Stones (Paint it Baack) very much - and fresh oil! But sometimes they need "Mothers little Helpers" (the machines only)

Got a nice lot of original Singer paper work from a saddlery in GB. Original Singer Parts catalog from 1973/74, parts catalog from Bogod Co (not only Singer parts) and a bunch of original Singer technical bulletins. Great information on parts, needles, screws, subclasses and so forth. Nice information on some 45K and 111w machines. Too many page to scan and post here but I think I will put some of the bulletin's into a PDF and post them. Just wanted to share this.

If it is just ae206457 then it most likely is a Singer 95 http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-ae-series-serial-numbers.html Weren't the Singer 95 the machines with the odd timing belt with punched holes? But I think it depends on the subclass maybe later ones had a different timing belt or were gear driven.

Sure Diameter: 20.3mm Hight: 7.7mm Hole: 5.8mm

My opinion - it is not worth the work / the trouble / the time / the money. Better buy a new JACK Servo Motor from College Sewing in the UK (if you don´t need the bells and whistles your EFKA has) or one of the HoHsing motors some members have recommended. Same with your very old Simanco Motor, I would not repair it except you like the historical motors but be aware - they are decades old and probably not electrically safe anymore.

well, I meant it as a joke.

Seems they have processed a lot of cast iron. I wonder where all that cast iron is nowadays? I think there are some kind machine hoarders out there and a lot is concentrated on Ebay Germany. Ebay is probably the larges cast iron source in da world. When you melt down all the existing vintage cast iron machines and the world price for iron will drop dramatically .

Good clear pictures of your machine situation are always helpful. You never know if someone sees something you have overlooked or we can compare how it is set up. Usually a needles brakes when it hits the needle plate. Your needle plate has 2 different sizes of needle holes, try the larger hole and try to center the needle or set it a bit more left instead of centered.There are also 2 different needle plates available one with smaller and one with larger holes (both have 2 different size needles holes for different size needles) No matter what I sew I`m always using the the larger hole. The plates work for 29K71 and 29K73 and their clones. 82234 NEEDLE PLATE MEDIUM / COARSE SINGER 29K-71 82235 NEEDLE PLATE FINE / MEDIUM SINGER 29K-71 or the needles brake when it hits the hook or the hook grabs the needle and brakes it (I heard of the 2nd issue but never have seen it happen). In both cases I´d say the machine is not well timed. Check the 29K71 / 72 manual for timing your machine.

@ hyttogpine - don´t worry I sometimes even don`t understand what some native English speaking member are writing - must be the difference in grammar. And I´m also sure my grammar is not always correct, too. We all are learning something here - hopefully.

Decades old oil and dirt is tough to clean some times. Maybe try washing soda solution and a cloth rag

Alex, don`t you have the RECOLOR stuff form your 29K project?

Well Daren, thats not helpful at all, you should at least let him know what needle systems you are talking about or post a link to the thread you mentioned. This is like "I know what you need but I don´t tell you"

Sorry - I live in the metric part of the world. I have not noticed the 5/8 before - thats approx 1.6cm and probably a bit too much for the 105-64. I think you need a heavier machine. My bad.

The 105-64 is an excellent needle feed machine and will serve you well for your sheath projects. The 105 series machines are build like tanks and sill last many decades when well serviced and oiled.

Dikman - No I don´t. I shouldn't have mentioned the shipping from Germany this probably was misleading. I order most parts in the UK or USA because they are cheaper. I meant that you should probably oder some extra parts so the relation to the shipping costs is better. Parts I don´t find at College Sewing UK I buy form Sharp Sewing they usually charges $8 -$10 for shipping. http://stores.ebay.de/SHARP-SEWING-SUPPLIES or ngosew http://stores.ebay.com/NgoSew-Sewing-Parts-Company?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 or jimtalyinc http://stores.ebay.com/jimtalyinc?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 Ebay is just easier for me - no phone calls no shop registrations...

Dikman - shipping for spare parts is not necessarily expensive. F.I small packages up to 500 Gramms can be shipped from Germany for approx $7 US worldwide. College Sewings cheapest rate is 8.50 GBP afaik When I order spare parts from the UK or the US it is more expensive but I alway buy some extra screws, springs, needles, bobbins or what ever I think could be useful for one of my machines. You never know - it sucks when you loose a tiny screw while servicing a machine and have to order a 0.50 cent screw and pay $8 for shipping. Thats what I have in my 111 type parts box - I may have mixed up some screws but I at least know that I have a replacement for most of the easy to loose screws. It´s also nice to have when you find a new (old) machine with missing small parts / screws or so.