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I wasn't sure where else to put this since it was tool specific, but wasn't really anything more than a description of the process. I thought it might be interesting to "see" things from the point of view of the the designer and possibly get some insight on the thought process. I will do my best to not get too technical, as those kinds of details just tend to bog everything down and make for a boring read. It is my hope that those of you possibly wanting to give making your own tools will glean some information from this and give it a shot and those of you who haven't given any thought as to what goes into the development of a single tool might gain some appreciation for the hard work and frustration that is generally unseen. I started with an idea when I was browsing around to see what kinds of different knives were out there. I saw all manner of designs and quality, but the one thing that 99% of these knives had in common was that they were all made from metal. I also felt that I had the tools and know-how to give a go at making one or two of my own, but I didn't want to copy what already out there. I wanted a tool that I wanted to use. Having picked up and played with several knives and found them to be nothing close to what I wanted pushed the idea of making my own knife further to the front. It wasn't just a spur of the moment thing and I took some time mucking about with different ideas before settling on what I wanted to try first. This was when I posted the question to the forum asking about what people like or didn't like about their knives. It didn't go anywhere near as well as I had envisioned, but it wasn't a complete loss and I pushed forward. I also wanted to incorporate some of the knowledge gained from making crochet hooks for my wife. (She had issues with the plastic ones due to the molding seam and the metal ones made her hands ache so she couldn't crochet for very long. Wood was the answer, but not just any wood, it had to be dense, hard and fine grained.) Several attempts were made before a functional prototype even happened. After it was finished, it was glaringly obvious that I still needed to work out a few bugs and design issues before I had something that looked like anything more than an amateur hack was let loose in the garage. My biggest issue, wrong material! I have tried out quite a few difference species of exotic hardwood and found some to work and some that just don't. I also found that there were serious flaws in the way I had originally planned on machining and assembling these things. Each step forward seemed to put me two steps back. I was mainly using the materials that I had on hand, so it became abundantly clear that I needed to source specific sized materials of appropriate type to do things the right way after finding plenty of ways to do it wrong. I was using some 1/4" cold rolled steel rod that was laying around to make the yoke shafts, but it required machining it down to a smaller diameter and then putting a super smooth and shiny finish on it. After that, it required putting threads on one end and machining a flat spot for the set screw to bite on. This was very time consuming and brought about issues with trying to keep that shiny finish while trying to cut threads and machine the flat. Each time was met with failure to keep that finish. I ultimately decided to source some annealed drill rod of the proper diameter that already had that smooth finish. Cutting the proper sized hole in the barrel for the bearings was another major hurdle. I was initially just starting with a drilled hole and then slowing increasing the size of the bored hole, but that was time consuming. A solution was to get an appropriately sized ream to bring it to the finished size. Once again, a solution brought about new challenges. I ended up splitting quite a few potential barrels. I also wanted to test if using a brass insert to help increase the strength might be an option, however that turned out to be a dead end, since I couldn't ream the brass tubing without destroying the test pieces Drilling the holes and cutting threads for the set screws became a problem as I could only create ugly looking set screws. I switched to some premade ones that looked nicer, but they still need some tweaking to get the to clear the tight spaces they were going to reside. I also needed to find a way to keep the threads from just being puled out, since the one set screw is threaded into the wood barrel. The solution was a simple flat spot on the shank of the blade. It allowed a positive bite on the blade with less force involved. The same solution was used for the yoke shaft. Another feature I wanted was the ability to keep the yoke captive. It needed to be adjustable, but not fall out when the set screw was loosened. I was keeping a larger diameter bit at the bottom of the yoke shaft, but that interfered with machining operations. My solution for that came into play with the use of a straight chunk of drill rod. I drilled and threaded a hole in the bottom end so a small screw and washer could be attached. This was another instance where the solution brought about a whole new set of problems. I was having problems getting the proper RPMs on the lathe to prevent the stuff from hardening while machining it. Very frustrating. It would be soft one second and nearly as hard as the HSS tools I'm cutting with the next. I broke a drill bit and two taps trying to get the problems worked out. Another issue that I have been trying to work around in damaging the bearings when pressing them in. This is also a critical time for the barrel, since the added stresses can cause it to split if I haven't done everything else right. What was happening was that I was dimpling the races of the bearings as the pressure was getting applied to the inner race instead of the outer one where it would be safe. This was permanent damage and made the bearings unsuitable for smooth and free movement. This proves difficult when trying to get things to line up just right in such a confined space. I think I have worked out how it can be done, but it requires more testing. One of the last issues that has had me irritated is drilling the access hole for the yoke adjustment set screw. I have yet to get it in the right spot with measuring it out. The solution that I am working on involves a jig that I can load the bearing carrier with the bearings attached and locate the holes placement before inserting it into the barrel so that location can be transferred to the outside of the barrel. This meant designing a tool to help build the tool. All of this effort is for one goal, making a very high quality swivel knife from a material to help reduce hand fatigue made from a slightly unpredictable material. Each tools is unique and can easily be considered a one-off. It may have similarities to the others that get made, but everyone requires a little tweaking here and there along the way. I have invested an estimated 75 to 100 hours in this project already and I still do not feel that things are exactly the way I want them yet. It clearly isn't a simple task of taking something from the drawing board to a finished product, but I have enjoyed the challenge and I believe that I might actually be onto something. Despite all of the frustrations and failures along the way, I still feel like I am on the right track. It has also been a very huge learning experience, which is why I wanted to share it with you guys. It's not very often you get to hear about how things went wrong in the development of something that seems so simple. I keep thinking of the quote from Edison... "I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." There is quite a bit of truth to that. We learn more from our failures than we do from our successes. The evolution of the shape and design, as well as the optimization of the machining and assembling, of a single tool is governed by the desired outcome and the series of problems that arise and how they are overcome.

Welcome fellow Washingtonian... It's good to see someone else from the most diverse state in the U.S. I've been over there to Yakistan a few times, usually to the YTC, but prefer to stay on the west side of the mountains. Havamal's quite lucky being right up the road from one of the Tandy's in the state. It takes me about an hour to drive there from where I am.

Well, so as to not sound insane, I found the post I referenced earlier from someone here who uses an airbrush to apply the neatsfoot oil. Here it is... I guess the main point is that there isn't really a wrong way to apply it as long as it isn't overdone.

I use the photobucket route, too. The nice thing with photobucket is being about to edit photos through the web based editor. There's a simplified version, but towards the bottom is a link to opt for the more advanced editor. I have not tried to use the web based editor through the browser on the phone, but once you've gotten uploaded you can easily edit, resize, and manipulate the image to your heart's content before generating the links for the images. The interesting thing is that the web based editor is actually a freely available (and full featured pay version) app for the iPhone called Pixlr by AutoDesk. I can't speak for any sort of availability on android, but there are a few alternatives to aid in any editing and resizing needs you might need. PhotoShop Express is free and has a decent set of features, is one that comes to mind. I would recommend at least resizing the images before uploading them, since straight from the phone they can be particularly large depending on the options you have set for your camera. File size and image dimensions, both. I do want to say that photobucket is working on a new layout for the website and it leaves a few features behind. Unless I missed it, one of those features is the option to select which photos in a current album you wish to have it generate link codes for you to post or link to. As mush as I like to newer style layout, I am still using the older style so that I still have access to that feature. It is possible that I am overlooking where this feature is in the new layout, as it is quite different from the older style. If someone knows for sure on this, please don't hesitate to say something.

What's fun is that middle section doesn't have to be a straight line. Yours looks to be curved, but you could do just about any shape you'd like. A fleur de lis or some flames might be interesting, too. Just some ideas to play with...

What I am seeing is basically two options. Buy one or build one. Buy one: If you are going to buy one, your budget is the limiting factor and you usually get what you pay for. Cheap tools will typically yield cheap results. I just don't know how many companies actually have make one of these tools, so you might be stuck with reevaluating your budget due to a limited number of choices. Build one: It might not be the easy route, but it's an option. You might be able to make your own, or depending on your skills and available tools, have someone assist you in that task. It might not be the cheaper route, either. Basically a metal plate with threaded holes to accept the replacement hole punch ends and an end punch affixed to it somehow is what you are after. The other key is some way to apply enough force to press it into a leather strap. What I am thinking it something along the lines of a modified arbor press, a metal plate, some parts from Tandy or other supplier, and a big cutting mat/board to press against.

Whatever the outcome, you already have a toehold. If you get the grant, you can push forward full throttle. If you don't, you can push forward incrementally as your budget allows. From the sounds of it, you have gotten to where you are on your own and there is nothing that says you can't keep it as a "hobby" that pays for itself and build on it until it becomes more. Yes, it'd be a bummer to not get the grant as it would really give you some breathing room, but, regardless, you still have your skills, tools, supplies, and drive to do something creative with them. Grant or no, I'm just not seeing a downside. Say you get it, you breathe a sigh of relief and push forward with your plans. Say you don't get it, you breathe a sigh of relief that the pressure of not knowing is gone and you pursue the very same plans at your own pace as your time and budget allows. Same results, just different paths. Maybe I am not seeing the whole picture, but it looks to me as though all the stress is related to the song and dance and hoop jumping the VA makes you do before they give you anything. It's the not knowing if they will or will not release the funds to you after performing all the tricks ask you to that makes this whole thing scary. Try not focusing on "will they, won't they" aspect, but rather how either outcome will be a relief because you'll know what you need to do next no matter what happens.

+1 for modifying a tool that's not exactly what you want. There's no rule that says you can't... Just make sure you spend a little time polishing the surfaces you grind on up a bit.

I wish I was able to look this over in person. I just feel like I am not getting the full picture with it and what it's purpose was. It clearly looks like a specialized stitching pony, but what for? Does that board along the side come out and what does that wedge shaped part actually do? What might the part sticking out at an angle do? I have been staring at this thing and racking my brain trying to figure it out. One of the ideas I have is If it might be used for opening up the boot for putting in the decorative stitching or maybe the for holding the boots of a prosthetic limb. The issue with those ideas is the lack of clearance for your hands between the arms. You can clearly see there is greater wear on the tip of one arm and it appears that is the same arm that gets moved more. The other thing that keeps drawing my eye to it is that large groove up the frame between the arms. Was there some sort of shuttle that needed that groove for clearance? Was is possible it was used for making some type of woven rope or other tube shaped thing?

I guess you just don't leave your leather hanging out of the rounder overnight. All joking aside, it's good information to keep in mind, but as long as it isn't being left in there for extended periods of time it should present no problems for normal use.

This is fine if it's still fresh. If you wait a few hours, all the volatile solvents have evaporated and you need to take a different approach. It looks like that was implied, but not laid out explicitly in the quote above about using isopropyl alcohol to clean it up. You'll certainly want to get to quickly, if that is how you plan to take care of it.

It looks like a type of stitching pony to me. No idea what it was specifically used to make, but I think I have worked out how it was used. What I am seeing is that the wedge in the corner is removed and center between the arms. The loop end of the rope is hooked around the sliding peg in the wedge and the rest of the rope passes through the pulley. It looks like the board sitting behind the wedge is actually a seat and the angled piece towards the back is a stop for the seat. I can't make out where the end of the rope is anchored to in order to keep tension on the arms, but it might be missing, obscured tied to your ankle when seated in it. It looks like that groove towards the front, between the arms is to accommodate excess hanging down inside. Is there any other information you can provide? Maybe even a test with pictures of it to see if I was correct about my theory on how it was set up for use?

I got a couple images taken with my cell phone after finishing up a recent test knife. As I mentioned in the previous post, this one is Snakewood. As a reminder, these are cell phone pictures and not exactly the best quality, but it should give you a decent idea of how things have gone. As usual, these are clickable thumbnails that will open the full sized image.

I would argue that cherry is too soft to work. Oak or Walnut are hard enough, but the grain is too open and course to be work right. It would end up scratching or tearing the leather. If you can locate some Cocobolo or Lignum Vitae board that is about 3/4" thick or so, it would be a good start. Those woods are very dense, hard, and strong. They will polish up very nicely and should be capable of taking the abuse you give it by forcing strips of leather through it.

The good news, I based it off of my hands and I have big hands. That was one of the issues with the very first functioning prototype, it was big and would have been a very uncomfortable stretch for anyone with smaller hand. The barrel was close to 3" long, but I hadn't noticed that it was big until I had someone with smaller hands attempt to use it. It was kind of like watching a little kid attempt to ride a 10 speed. "Make shorter barrel" immediately went to the top of my list of revisions that needed to be addressed. More good news, my yoke design is flexible enough to accommodate small hands with the very same yoke. I had a few women try out one of my knives and they had no issues with controlling or gripping the knife. So, as long as the yoke is appropriately sized, there shouldn't be any issues. On a side note: One of my most dreaded fears is having everything exactly how I want it and then screwing it up later after discovering that part of my process needs to be modified. A good example of this happened just recently. I worked very hard at perfecting the finish on the yoke shaft and keeping with looking nice while putting some threads on the end that connects to the yoke. I managed to mar it up pretty good when attaching the yoke to the yoke shaft. I was able to clean it up some, but the damage was done and I clearly needed to revise my process once more. The previous revision to my process happened after doing something very similar. I had a nice and polish finish on the yoke shaft and marred up the finish getting threads on the yoke shaft. Talk about frustration... I had some very choice words to say at the moment and I almost threw it across the room after that. That's all part of the designing and testing, though. Sometimes getting from step 1 to step two requires you to invent a whole subset of steps. Clearly, it isn't always smooth sailing... When I get the chance, I'll post a few more pictures of the current one being constructed. I used the Snakewood barrel in the photos above, just to give you a hint at what it'll look like.

To be honest, the type of leather may not be that critical. The key here, I think, is the color and thickness of the leather. Most likely any leather that is thin and soft, similar to denim maybe, will allow a free movement and should fit the bill. Goat or sheep can be colored like that and still be soft and durable, too. This leaves you with a few options and you probably don't need too much leather to get the job done. You also have the room for experimentation and testing, just in case your first try doesn't work out the way you like. I have to agree with TwinOaks that it looks to be a simple tube shape that was sewn inside out and then inverted to place the seem inside. The embellishments are then added afterwards with similarly colored threads to anchor it to the leather.

I'd have to find a way to make my yoke fit the craftool standard knife. Not impossible, but a different direction than I am going at the moment. The yokes I made are very comfortable. The design started out as an attempt to find an ergonomic for my hand and evolved from there. The other factor was that the material I was working with started out as a cylinder and I was just working with what I hand on hand. As it stands, making the yoke still remains the most time consuming part of making these knives. I haven't found a way to machine them that doesn't require equipment I already have. I could probably do it in multiple steps with a CNC mill, but that is something I don't have at this point. They do feel different than the standard shapes used on other knives, but this whole endeavor, yokes included, has been an effort to find a solution for a problem that is not addressed by any other knives on the market. Hand fatigue.

The sheer volume of information presented here can be overwhelming. The best thing I can suggest is to start in sections that might interest you and just read through the threads. Holsters are not something I am familiar with, but using the search feature for the forum and looking though the previous posted threads can give you a great deal of information. As far as making getting patterns, there are several books available for doing exactly that. One of the big things to overcome is the gun in which you are going to be patterning the holster for. I have seen threads that explain how to do it without one of the dummy blue guns, but it looks as thought the blue gun method is the easiest way. It comes down to this. A custom holster is exactly that, and it would be very difficult to just use a generic pattern and have it work or let alone work well. You'd be hard pressed to find another person in here who's going to just hand over a pattern, however you will find plenty of guys in here willing to help guide you in your efforts to making your own.

Sick!

Since there are many variables for even one model of rifle, it might be best to make your own pattern based on what you intend to have attached to your rifle. I know that "The Art of Making Leather Cases, Volume 3" by Al Stohlman deals with making rifle cases. The whole series is a good source of information, but vol 3 deals with larger cases and cases for rifles specifically. I wish I had a better answer for you, but if it is going to be a custom scabbard, then you are left with only a few options. Buy one and hope you can make it work, pay someone to custom make one, or custom make one yourself. I suspect you will be most happy with making your own if you are asking about how to get that done in here.

I have to second the whole 'searching for a funeral home or counter top sales place' thing. There are quite a few locally, for me, and a couple that just take the 'scraps' out to a bin marked "FREE". The scraps come in various sizes, colors, and shapes, but if they are free and usable, does it matter?

I think that any solvent strong enough to remove the gum-trag will also be strong enough to disturb the consistency of the color. I haven't tried to remove gum-trag before, but I would imagine that it's sort like a glue and soaks into the leather, bonding with the fibers.

On a side note, I noticed that a cheap tube flaring tool might work as a starting point for a rein rounder. You'd obviously need to clean it up, but it'd give you a starting point for a low cost.

This may be due to the type of wood being used. If you went with a very dense, tight grained wood like a Desert Ironwood, Lignum Vitae, or even Cocobolo, you'd be able to get near metal-like strength and also be able to give it a very smooth finish. I'd stay away from an open grain wood similar to Oak, Mahogany, or Walnut. The grain is to rough and may end up damaging the leather by scraping it rather than polish it. You'd need to find some way to reinforce the center section with either a metal brace or another chunk of wood screwed into the outer most top and bottom. The addition of some guides to keep the top half aligned with the bottom half will keep it from flexing or sliding while pulling the leather through the holes, too. The idea is to overbuild it a little and reinforce the more flexible areas to keep it as rigid as possible. Depending on which species of wood you go with, there may not be much of a cost savings. It also depends on tools available to you. Some of you might be better setup for working with metal, some wood, and some have it all covered. I have a personal bias towards well build wooden tools, though. It's very doable in wood, it just takes a little different approach to deal with the differences between the materials you choose to make it from. I would argue that the wood might actually be easier to work with as rounding and polishing all the holes you make into a chunk of steel will be quite time consuming, but a little finesse with a Dremel tool and the material can removed faster and cleaned up nicely in less time. You may even be able to use a router to round out the edges of some holes, too. I might be able to work up a quick drawing to help those of you incline to DIY one of these in wood. I have a few ideas that might work, but a picture or two seems to do a much better job explaining things than paragraphs of words alone. Just let me know if any of you are interested.