Rawhide

Wolvenstien suggested I post a picture of some of my work, so I will. This is a checkbook cover I made about a week or so ago. It's posted also in a How do I do that thread also, as I was trying to illustrate how I lace. Marlon

Thanks for the compliments I guess I'm a bit too critical for myself, (we probably all are). Cybertracy, you're welcome. If you have any questions let me know and I'll be glad to answer them. Wolvenstien, That is a double loop lacing. Marlon

I have two, and I really like them, I got each one for about 65 bucks, (I used the half off one item coupon), however I plan on buying a Henley, and a Beard as well. I have heard so much good talk about these that I have to try them. The ASB do fit the ceramic blades. At least mine does. Marlon

It was a company called HIDECO. I don't know if they are in conjunction with silver creek, but that's the name of the company that bought Hidecrafters. Marlon

I use tape as well, but I usually use the blue painter's tape, because of the low level of adhesive. I have also rubber cemented to manila folders for smaller work and that has helped as well (and cheap too). Marlon

Here's what I do and hopefully it will help you. Get yourself an overstitch wheel with a 7 stitch per inch spacing, a pair of lacing nippers (a single prong chisel will also work). Scribe the line as Beverslayer mentioned earlier all around your project. next punch your corner holes first at a 45 degree angle to both adjacent sides of the corner. Next use the stitching wheel along the scribe line to evenly mark punching locations. Now use a 45/45 triangle to line up your first punch and punch it at the first mark. (I place the punch to the inside of the scribe line, this way the line is covered up well with lace at the end of the project.) Now you can use the first punched hole to line up the next and continue around the part. If you use the 1/8" lace with this hole patter, it should give you a nice tight lace which looks extremely professional. Here's is a check book cover I did recently. I use the process described above, with some kangaroo lace I cut with a lace cutter. (cutting your own is WAY more economical). Hope this helps. If not, reply back or send me a pm and I'll try to put together a tip sheet. Marlon

:fire: I was sick without this forum. I am happy to know that we have such dedication to feeding our addiction. Thanks Kate, thanks Johanna, and all else who were/are involved in breathing life back into this board. Marlon

I second that motion from Clay. Most people nowadays use it for fine detail carving (tight curves, small spaces, etc...). They will use an xacto knife or the like to complete filigrees. Marlon

here's my version of pro carve. I use a gallon of distilled water and pour off about half a cup to a cup. Take two lemons and microwave them for 20-30 seconds. Roll them back and forth on the countertop with pressure from the palm of my hand. This bursts the capillaries inside. Now slice them in half with a sharp knife (if it's not sharp you will have to push on the knife an loose a lot of juice). I use a manual juice extractor, but I'm sure you could use a powered one. Extract as much juice as you can and then filter ALL the pulp out. Use a paper towel if you don't have anything to filter with. Pour the lemon juice into the distlled water. Add some drops of plain Dawn dishwashing liquid. (don't use any lotion soap). Now you've got a good carving solution. Also don't use the lemonjuice in the green bottle use actual lemons and extract the juice yourself. The lemon juice will prevent the mold from maturing and the dawn will soften the leather. Marlon

the only thing I can tell you to do is to fold the belt end over and close the snaps. Then lay belt flat with the flesh or lining side up. Take some tracing film and trace the outline of the folded piece and the location of the gouge. Flip the belt over, and lineup the edges. Mark your gouge. Then cut it. It should be pretty darn close. Marlon

I wouldnt give up on them yet. Im pretty sure they are losing lots of stuff due to the recent change in ownership. They still have a lot of work to do. Just stay on them for your catalog/items.

here's a picture from the Al Stohlman book "Leathercraft tools" I highly recommend it. It's one of my best books.

Thanks Johanna. I will know next time Marlon

Hey, We just learned something from each other. Thanks and you're welcome at the same time.

Another little trick an old guy taught me was to pull some cord (thread) through jewelers rouge. then pull the "loaded" string through your edger as many times as needed to keep your edger sharp. Marlon

I thought of mentioning it, but I didn't want to sound like a salesman. I still forgot to take some pictures and post though. Marlon

I visited hidecrafters last evening and they had several videos by George Hurst, none were 5 bucks though. As for the goat lacing, I did see that up on the counter, but I bought a goat hide from one of the back tables for about $20 and I can make waaaaaay more lace than on the spool with the lace maker tool. (Thanks Beaverslayer) Marlon

I agree!

Here's how I sharpen mine. I use a tri hone with a synthetic stone (about 500 grit), a soft and hard ark stone, and a surgical black ark stone. (in that order). coat the stone with a thin layer of honing oil. I hold the knife with my right hand, placing all four fingers on the side of the blade, and wrap my thumb under it to hold it. I start in the center of the blade holding it at about a 20 degree angle. I then move the knife in a circular motion. the direction is dependent on which side of the blade you will be sharpening. If you are sharpening the left side first, begin your motion toward the left (clockwise against the edge). It seems like this would damage the edge, but it will not. continue this circular motion for a couple of minutes. then switch it to the right hand side of the blade. When going to the right hand side, change your direction to be a clockwise circular motion. Once a burr develops on the opposite side that you are sharpening, then you flip the blade over and repeat the above. I do this on all four stones and then strop my knife on a leather strop with white jeweler's rouge. (when stropping only pull away from the edge, don't go in the circular motion as on the stones). I know this may be hard to visualize, but I can post a picture later in the evening if this explination isn't sufficient. Marlon

I teach a lacing class at a local Tandy and I prefer... well both. I like different holes for different reasons. When I do a Mexican (round) braid lacing I prefer the round holes. You can't really see the hole once the lacing is complete. For a double loop (cordovan) lace, I prefer an angled slot. I punch each hole individually with a lacing nipper rather than the four prong punch. I use a 7 stitch per inch overstitch wheel and mark the locations for the slots and punch them one by one. when the lacing is complete, there are no "gaps" between the laces and it looks incredibly professional. I agree that it looks amateurish to have the gaps between the laces. My 2 cents. Marlon

They look like hole punches. I can't tell from the pictures. Could you take a picture of the "punching" part of it on it's end? Marlon

I forgot to mention that the class will be on Carving techniques and Coloring (Dyeing). Thanks for pointing that out Clay Marlon

Ladies and Gentlemen, Peter Main is conducting a two day workshop on January 26th and 27th, 2008, from 9am to 5pm at the Tandy Leather Store located at: 8117 Camp Bowie West, Fort Worth, TX 76116 Map (Store phone - local: 817-244-3432, Toll Free: 866-322-8965. Manager: Laura Gutowski, Email) CLASS COST: $225.00 pre-paid per person. (8 person minimum, 10 person maximum) Please contact Laura Gutowski at Tandy if you want more information, or would like to participate. I think there have been 3 sign-ups so far. Peter Main's flyer reads as follows: Peter Main Workshop requirements I will prepare the leather for our project, so all you need to bring are a few tools. CRAFTOOLS: S932, C455, P703, U858, H904, P368, V745, B202L, B202R, A104, B200, F941... you may substitute tools...or even borrow a couple. Swivel Knife...with fine angle blade...or your favourite blade Tracing stylus Scratch awl Mallet Modeling tool...I will bring some For coloring: A couple of number five brushes...can be sable or a good synthetic...ensure they come to a fine point....I will bring extra brushes A shallow-well palette I use a sketch pad as a working surface when coloring...may be a good idea to bring one along...perhaps around 14 x 11" or larger. Colors and solvent will be supplied. ...don't forget you notepad and pencil. You can visit Peter Main's website here: Peter Main's Website Marlon

I agree with Beeza. It can be done, but generally if it dries out and you re-case it, it will be harder to cut with your swivel knife. You may be able to use something like Lexol conditioner to soften it up a bit. I'm sure experts will chime in on this. Marlon

I don't like the adjustable creaser and I'll explain why. when you spread the fork on it, and begin to push along the leather, the tool tries to walk in both directions. It's kind of like pushing a grocery cart where both front wheels are going in different directions. With the dedicated ones, the tool is easier to use. Just my 2 cents. Marlon