gottaknow

We estimated about 2000 units in 3 different sizes. The hides are decent and we don't have to worry about scars etc. I think we'll be finished in October. We got this contract because another factory couldn't make their machines sew them with quality. We redesigned them and they loved our samples. They were trying to do a full felled seam (4 layers) I changed it to a simple lap seam since leather doesn't unravel. The other company simply didn't have the means or machines to make them. We'll likely get to make chaps as well. Regards, Eric

Tor, the air flows through an air switch that is activated when you start sewing. It blows air across the needles below the plate. When you stop sewing, the air stops. Arron, we have hundreds of samples at the factory. I will bring one home on occasion if it needs some engineering. Regards, Eric

I'm working on several more videos to share. Been a busy summer! I'm glad you liked the video, I've been a mechanic for 33 years. Even with all that, I really am enjoying hand sewing my holsters. Regards, Eric

Thought I'd share something from a different perspective, but still machines to sew leather goods. Just faster. We're doing a contract for the US Navy making welding jackets. It's a nice 4 oz suede. We are making our way through 6 pallets of hides stacked about 4' high each. Needless to say, a lot of leather. The spec calls for Kevlar thread, tex 90. Wow, that stuff's expensive! The machines I set up are a Singer 300W flatbed dbl needle chainstitch. I set the needle gauge to 3/16". That is used to create a lap seam with two row of stitching which was required. The other main machine is a Singer 261-3 feed off the arm dbl needle chainstitch. It's not a cylinder machine, but rather a feed off the arm machine that can close a sleeve with little effort. Since both those machines are chainstitches, no bobbins. On the 300W I made a speed reducer as well as making a needle cooler which you can see in the picture is actually under the throat plate and blows air as the needles decend. I'm also running both the needle threads and looper threads through a silicone bath. The 261 has just the needle cooler. The original motor has plenty of torque. I'm using 62x40 needles with a spear point, size 20. Chainstitch machine needles deflect quite a bit more than a lockstitch so the heavier needle must be used. Other misc. equipment required are a Brother progammable bartack, an automatic rivet machine, and an old manual Stimpson kick press for the snaps and grommets. Total time to produce one complete jacket is about 18 minutes. That doesn't include cutting time. The cutters are using Eastman 2" round knives after laying out each hide with masonite templates. I'll have enough scrap suede for the next 10 years! Regards, Eric

I'm going to look through my 153's, 111's, 112's and see if I can find the clutch that you might have. The 153's should pop out sooner than the others. Make sure that entire unit is well oiled and moving good. Regards, Eric

Nice assortment Wiz. Those 70's era Kenmores are decent machines. My mom's got an early 50's Morse in a real nice cherry cabinet with the knee lever controller. The casting is stamped Toyota Mtrs. It was the first machine I sewed on when I was probably 10 or so. Oh, and are you happy with the Janome from that era? Regards, Eric

It doesn't matter what you make or how you do it Malik. It all starts with just one machine, one idea. Your products look sharp! I'm of the opinion that everyone can learn something from someone else. Oddly enough, even with just about every machine known to man, I choose to hand sew my holsters. This site has been a gold mine of knowledge since I started. Regards, Eric

Nice clean setup there Malik. I like the looks of your collars too. Here's where I play for 40 hours a week. I'm the head mechanic in a sewing factory. We are independant contractor and will sew anything that comes our way. Right now we're making jeans, casual slacks, goretex jackets and pants, Lycra equestrian breeches, misc. outerwear (jackets) and leather welding jackets for the US Navy. We have about 600 machines total, and about 120 out on the production floor. I'm the head mechanic and keep things running. My personal machines are in storage right now, but I have a Singer 111, 112 and a Union Special 39500 industrial serger. Regards, Eric

I was going to mention Gerry that a shot of oil on that small hub should make it trip easier. It's metal on metal and gets corroded. Regards, Eric

I do have what Singer used to call the "machinist" section of the manual. It's not that many pages so I'll scan and attach it here. Regards, Eric

Hey Gerry. Here's a video I made describing the function and adjustment of the safety clutch for your 153. Hopefuly 10 minutes of the way I explain things won't make you leave the room screaming...heh. I also have the manuals for these machines at the factory, but they really aren't that great. I'll look and see if there's something you could use other than what you find online. Regards, Eric

The Singer W series serial numbers were first used in 1911. They are scattered with other series, (depending on model) right up through around 1959. I would put the date of your machine based on the high number in the early to mid 50's. Regards, Eric

It's a very versatile machine. We can sew 2 layers of lightweight Lycra and garment leather as well as pretty heavy nylon webbing we use for making tactical gear. I use from a size 11 needle up to a 22. That's versatility. Same issue applies that I mentioned in my pm about the oil tube that rubs against the shaft for the oil pump. When you run the machine at high speed, you should see a pretty vigorous amount of oil in the sight glass. It's an easy repair, but the bearings on the top shaft may have gotten hot if it wasn't caught. Not all this class present this issue. In my factory, about 1/3. It's a bigger deal for us since we sew at high speed, 40 hours/week. Also, if you happen to unscrew the pressure foot adjustment too far, you'll have to take off the end cover and put the spring back on, no big deal. Have fun! Regards, Eric

A good needle feed machine is the Juki 5410. If you can find one used, look for one equipped with a Juki servo motor. There should be plenty in your area. My other favorite, older needle feed machine is the Singer 281-22. If you look for one, make sure it's the -22 model as several of the other 281 class are not needle feed. This is a 60's era machine and you should be able to get the head and table for $300-$400. You could add a servo motor. There is no plastic on the 281-22 and they will sew a wide variety of garment leather and wooven goods. Parts are readily available. The Juki 5410 will handle a bit more thickness. Both machines have a sump style oil pan which in a home setting can get a bit messy. The 281's oil pan does a much better job of keeping the oil where it belongs. The 5410's tend to drip oil because the tray portion under the hook is a bit shallow, even though it's not part of the main reservoir. Easy enough to manage by wiping that area out as needed. To keep the machines high speed pumps working, winding bobbins at high speed once in a while is sufficient. Regards, Eric

Thanks for that info Chief. I do heat my molded holsters. I was still afraid to oil it afterwards for fear of softening it too much until I figured it would give me the shine I wanted. I'm learning as I go and I really appreciate the input. I'm going to implement some of your techniques Regards, Eric

My thought was that I didn't want to soften the leather too much for retention reasons, but just a dab really glossed it up. Regards, Eric

Thanks! I pondered the finish process for a long time. As for dipping the holster, I used a 9" pan and submersed for 20 seconds. I let that sit for less than 5 miniutes. I then did a baking soda soak for 20 seconds, followed by a cold water rinse in tap water for about 30 seconds. I had started my batch of "roon" about a month ago. It got black pretty fast. There's one small spot on the inside where my glue didn't accept the color, but it doesn't show. Next one I'll be more careful. As for the finish, I let it dry for an hour and then burnished the edges with no additional materials. I usually use saddlesoap and canvas. I touched a few things up with a modeling spoon then let it completely dry for 48 hours. I applied 6 or 7 coats of carnauba creme wax (Fiebing's) and buffed with a piece of fleece. On the last application, I mixed in some Neetsfoot oil with the wax. That really gave it the rich black color. For my first one in black, I was really pleased. I think I know have a pretty good procedure for future work. I also sewed the holster before I dipped it in the "roon" Regards, Eric

I just finished this flatback pancake holster for a Bersa .380. It was my first attempt at using vinegaroon. All in all I'm pretty happy with it, the person I made if for was very happy. Regards, Eric

Making my first holster that will be black, so I've made some vinegroon which worked great on my test piece, so I got that part figured out. So I've wet molded the holster, glued the front to the back, (it's a flat back pancake). Normally I would bevel the edges, burnish, cut the stitch grooves, mark for the holes, punch the holes with my awl, dye, sew, then wax. That's been working so far. I'm open to suggestions on how to do this one using my vinegroon, including how to do the final finish. Thanks in advance. Regards, Eric

For lockstitch machines of virtually every class, a good starting point is your needle thread should have about twice the tension as the bobbin. That's pulling the bobbin thread up through the throat place and the needle threaded all the way without going through the needle. I always adjust bobbin tension first, then make top tension adjustments until I'm happy with it. If you run your tensions too tight (with leather and in fact even lightweight nylon), you get what's called tension fracture. On leather it shows up by deforming the material inwards making the needle holes appear larger than they are. Given that condition, you would tend to go to a smaller and perhaps undersized needle which makes adjusting the tension even harder. Get some scrap and adjust your tensions so you can see how they react. You'll be a pro in no time. Have fun! Regards, Eric

Heh...so adding a VFD keeps it original? . Forgive me, it's Monday. Regards, Eric

Just curious, why not just use the correct motors to start with? You lose substantial torque single phasing a 220 motor. Regards, Eric

We're making oilcloth jackets in the factory right now. I use a regular point needle but have dropped down a size on most operations. One nice thing is the wax coating lubes the needles and reduces needle heat. Using a leather point on this material will destroy it. Regards, Eric

Many auto parts stores carry the smaller belts. In a pinch I'll get one from NAPA. I'm sure our sponsors selling machines and parts have them as well. Regards, Eric

The belt will work fine, it'll just run a bit faster. Regards, Eric