gottaknow

Even though I have plenty of machines to sew holsters with, I sew by hand to get the relaxation factor. Regards, Eric

Trox, don't go telling people I'm polite.... Regards, Eric

I use a regulator to adjust the airflow which is usually less than 10 psi. It really takes very little air. Regards, Eric

When I do build a custom table, I have to build it to withstand factory use. I tend to build it for how heavy I think it needs to be, and then go a bit beyond. My concern even with the reinforcement is the area immediate to the machine cut-out. It's certainly ok to try different things, and in his situation the thinner top might be just fine. Regards, Eric

I use an air switch pittman rod to control my needle coolers. I have about 8 machines right now using them. With the control switches, the air only flows when you sew. I have tons of air, so that's not a concern anyway. I've used the commercial coolers and have seen no difference in performance at all. All that's required is to reduce the needle heat to below the melting temp of the thread. I make my coolers from 1/8" copper tubing recycled from machine oil pumps. 30 mins is about all I need. The actual airflow required is very little. If you blow too much air, you can wipe your thread out of the way affecting proper loop formation. On chainstitch machines, I cool the needles below the throat plate. One of the machines is a Juki 3 step zig zag which we set patches of deer hide onto Lycra. Because of the Lycra, I can't use a leather needle so theres' a lot of heat generated. On that machine I also soak the cones in silicone as it's only Tex40. Regards, Eric

I would laminate two of the tops together. A 111 head weighs about 75 lbs and you're going to be cutting a big hole in it. On a standard sewing table, the frame supports the right end of the table. Don't forget you'll be hanging a motor on it too. On the other hand, I've seen the $200 aftermarket table tops warp like crazy. Neat idea. Regards, Eric

Yeah, there are so many variations with the 153's. A good portion of Singer's history was designing machines for a specific industry or even a specific operation on a garment.. (Levi's probably is the best example.) The 153 was produced for Levi to hem the cuffs on the 501's. At some point, they changed things around, made improvements etc. Since earlier machines were already out there, the parts had to be supported and the size of the classes snowballed. The flatbed version of the 153 is the 111 and 211 classes. Since we make jeans in the factory, a good example is the Singer 300w series. It was always a flatbed until Levi asked for a cylinder style machine to set the waistbands on jeans. The two needle chainstitch has an 1 1/4" needle gauge. Singer took a regular flatbed 300w and made a conversion kit. Goofy looking, but it works well. Regards, Eric

I'll check at work Monday for that tension slide diagrahm, or I'll look on one of my machines. Regards, Eric

I love tri-flow for the locksmithing I do, but you should use a regular sewing machine oil for your 153. Any supplier should carry it. I'm not a parts supplier, I just happen to have a 55 year accumulation of parts for a company that at one time had 800 machines in 5 different factories. I have boxes of parts I'll never use. I have about a 20lb box of 153 parts, some new, some used. Check first with one of the sponsors here on Leatherworker, most of those parts should be available. If you really get stuck on one or two, I'll dump out the box I have and start digging. Regards, Eric

Sorry I failed to mention a flatbed adapter Ian. If we need a flatbed in the factory, we just use a flatbed. I also have original Singer parts 240684, and 240688. Those are the parts you show damaged. You'll need to investigate why the feed dog carrier broke. That is somewhat uncommon. They wear, don't see them break often. Regards, Eric

If there are 3 hot leads and a ground, it's a 3 phase motor. If there's only a hot, neutral, and ground, it's a single phase motor, 120v. It's possible the motor was rewound to 120v single phase. This was common back a few decades ago. I doubt it's a 3 phase motor as it would be single-phasing and not running. Regards, Eric

We use our 153's mainly for hemming cuffs on GoreTex, wool, and oilskin jackets. Regards, Eric

The 153's are good machines. By "bobbin area" did he perhaps mean the two gears that drive the hook? Parts are available and prices aren't really that bad, depending on what it needs. They are a bit trickier to work on that a conventional flatbed with a verticle hook. They are basically a Singer 211. Many parts interchange. Regards, Eric

The check spring is not designed for increasing tension, though its often thought of that way. It's function is to prevent slack in the needle thread to prevent needle penetration of the thread on the downstroke of the needle bar. It should be just tight enough to remove the slack in the needle thread. To better balance tension with heavy thread, decrease the bobbin tension, take more thread wraps on all the thread eyelets, and you can even take an extra wrap around the tension post. Regards, Eric

Welcome. I'm over in Spokane.

I used British Tan and thinned it heavily with denatured alcohol. I did several light coats. This particular color comes out a burgandy color (which is ok too) if used without thinning. Regards, Eric

The front sight on the Nano is very flat, And I didn't do much forming there with the exception of the ejection port for some added retention. My next holster will be for a Bersa .380 and the front sight is more conventional. I imagine I'll tape a pencil to gun while I'm forming. Regards, Eric

This is a flat back pancake holster I made for my Beretta Nano. It turned out ok and I learned some things about dyeing and thinning it to get the color you want. The next one I make will be for a co-worker of mine. I enjoy the hand sewing, especially since I've been sewing with machines for so long. Regards, Eric

I'm pretty happy with it, though there are things I'll do different on my next one. The gun is a Beretta Nano. Finished it with carnuba wax. The flat back style is really comfortable. Regards, Eric

Looks great Ferg!! Regards, Eric

Your machine won't work right with the bobbin tension screw missing and the hook needs to be sharp, but in the correct manor. More later. Regards, Eric

Without seeing a picture, it's hard to say. However, if the point of your hook is gone, you'll need to replace the hook. In order to do that, you'll need to remove the throat plate, the latch opener the presser feet and feed dogs. There are several steps and adjustments to accomplish this. Do you have a shop close by? I've had a lot of folks track me down by looking for sewing factories in their area. There should still be some down your way. Most factory mechanics work on the side. I did for years, not so much now. Regards, Eric

I failed to mention the tension release on this machine. Most machines have a direct link between the height of the presser foot and the tension release. Get the foot on thick material, the disk opens a bit, and you get loops on the bottom. The 211G155 uses a great design where to release the tension. It's independant of the height of the presser foot while sewing, as long as you're not lifting the foot manually. That is of course if it's adjusted correctly and stuff hasn't been modified. On most machines, you have to move the tension unit and check spring in or out to set your opening timing. It's hard to show with a picture, perhaps I'll get the parts manual and show the details. In any event, this solves a very common problem with loose tension. Regards, Eric

I agree Darren. The Chinese have yet to figure out how to make durable bearings. That and the races that contain them. Nice to see you here again btw. Regards, Eric

All you have to do on the 281-22's is wind the occasional bobbin at high speed. The bearings in these machines are near bulletproof. Singer overbuilt most of this generation. They will outlive most of us. Regards, Eric