St8LineGunsmith

those are actually referred to as stitching chisels i think the diamond point is at a 45 deg slant

I used to use a couple of thumb planes until i learned how to use my safety beveler a little spray of water on the leather makes the safety beveler skive leather ten times easier I also like using the french edger and my little osborne skiving knife.

http://www.fineleatherworking.com http://www.adelaideleather.com.au/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3_4

I have that book in PDF format Hint

the welts are usually put in for the trigger guard to have a pocket to fit in and is intended for holsters that incorperate a strap or thumb break and has no retention on the firearm. I dont like using welts because it makes the holster more difficult to hand stitch but some holsters have to incorperate a welt in order for the holster to function according to the preference of the user.

I would also suggest watching Nigel Armitage video on making a saddle stitch . he shows the proper use of the stitching awl.

The strap is for strength and gun retention that adds to the style of the holster but is not absolutely necessary.

you could try Maine Thread company waxed poly cord they offer several sizes and the thread is very lightly waxed in fact so lightly waxed it don't even feel like it is waxed. their polished cotton thread is real nice but I dont know how good it stitches leather tho I would be concerned with rot over a period of time with cotton thread I dont think that problem applies to poly thread. maine thread also has a large selection of threads specifically designed for sewing machines.

i agree that it needs stropping. if stropping the awl don.t solve the problem get a John James awl blade and polish it real good before using, problem should be solved http://www.fineleatherworking.com/saddlemaker-tools/leather-sewing-awl-blades I suggest getting the 38MM and 43MM those are the two sizes i use most. you want the awl blade to have a sharp point and keen edges so they will cut through the leather and not tear through the leather if the edges of the awl blade is polished but rounded off then you are probably experiencing difficulty pushing the blade through the leather and the leather tearing as you pass the awl blade through the leather instead of cutting through it

Thanks I have been looking for better tools

what Bruce said

the awl size i use depends on the thread size.

Ya first time I ever heard of resting your elbow on the table and I have been around leather work for years and some of the best toolers I know dont use this method of stamping either.I have however heard of the chicken wing method which does not detail resting your elbow on the table.it does detail keeping a bent arm at the elbow. some people think their way of doing something is the only way it should be done what works best for one person might not work so good for others sometimes you have to test the waters to see what works best for you

I agree I have several awl sizes, I use drum sticks to make my awl haft's

Diamond chisels work good on thin leather the thing about diamond shaped stitch holes is they are designed to close up around the thread I would suggest using a .30 poly thread from maine thread with a small john james diamond awl blade for thin leather making 8 to 9 SPI http://www.fineleatherworking.com/saddlemaker-tools/leather-sewing-awl-blades

I have often found that the tandy edge bevelers have a burr left on them from the factory. I have tiny files I use to remove the burr then I will hone with a strop as shown in the videos.

I use a 16 ounce maul and love it but someone else might like something a little heavier like everything else in leathercrafting YMMV Ya the BK mauls are without a doubt the best bang for the buckIMHO .Springfield has a good deal on them if you are a wholesale club member

I use the 2 prong needles but I only use 3/32" and 1/8" lace.

I ordered a spool in black to try out

the only reason I use a drill press is to make the inital hole then I follow up with a dimond awl blade works great for me a little slower having to make the holes twice but makes heavy projects easier to stitch up.

on thick projects that is what I use with a round awl blade on slow speed, then I will follow up with my stitching awl as i stitch to make the actual stitch hole.

I get mine from here http://americansaddleryinc.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=130&Itemid=173&vmcchk=1&Itemid=173 I buy locally but they take orders.

here is a web page that explains the cutting process of metals with a laser cutter. http://www.rofin.com/en/applications/laser_cutting/cutting_processes/

No it is definately a laser cutter a big CNC laser cutter. we used to have hand held plasma cutter here in the garage some where.

I really dont know anything about cutting leather with a laser my experience is with metal.