immiketoo

Now HERE"s a man who understands deco cuts! Nice work, Tim!

Just thick hide. This is meant for reenactment, not actual battle. Plus, there is no historical reference to boiled hide from this time period. It could have been done, but we can't prove it. There is historical reference to thermatothorax (Leather thorax) armor, but nothing on actual construction methods. We have an archeologist who consulted on this project. Thanks, everyone! It was a fun project to make. Sure is heavy though.

Thanks, everyone! HW, glad I could bring you out of the wings

Yes. No way I was cutting those by hand! Thanks, everyone!

My knees or leaning on a chair. I'd need a stitching mammoth to hold this thing!

I hate it, but its a matter of cost. Too much time to do them all.

Thanks, everyone. Learned a lot for the next set.

Sorry, sides, not hides. It weighs 10 kg roughly.

While some folks are content making the same thing again and again, Natalie and I like to stretch the boundaries of what we can do. And I’ll tell you, this stretched ALL of them. 3.5 full sides, hand stitched except the scales, embossed lion and bronze fittings and three months of our lives. Made to a historical pattern with the help of a local experimental archeologist, this piece will be used for re-enactments and historical displays, among other things. I hope you enjoy it. It’s time for a drink or three and to let my fingers heal!

Genius. Like always.

Looking good, Andrey!

This is going to sound cheeky, but the simplest answer is, don't put it there. Controlling your dyeing process is essential to clean leather work. A clean dye station without spills or areas that can contaminate your work are key. Wearing latex or nitrile gloves goes a long way to keeping errant finger prints off your work. Adding liners after you dye also helps. If you tape the back side before dyeing, that can help but its no guarantee against sloppy application. Dye edges last and with precision. I know it sounds impossible, but I was where you were a while ago and I hated sloppy backsides. I tried protecting the back in a variety of ways but not putting dye on the back IS the easiest way to avoid dye on the back. I started making sure my process was controlled and repeatable. Now, I make items with color on the front and undeyed lined backs without errant dye marks. This includes the dyed edges. You'll have to develop your own process for this as every work area is different. Tips: Tape or mask the back side. Finish the back with acrylic finish and slick it before dyeing the front. If you miss, you have a second to wipe it off before its permanent. Dye the piece, then add a liner. This covers any oopses as long as you slick the edges without spillage. Don't over saturate daubers. The drip and create dense areas of dye that can spread to unwanted areas including fingers. Consider spraying your color on. It's easier to control. As mentioned, gloves. If you get dye on a glove, replace it before continuing. Clean your dye station with alcohol before any new project and let it dry before starting. Dyestuffs can get EVERYWHERE Hope this helps.