immiketoo

I love those kind of projects that push you to new levels. They're almost as good as that asshole who says you can't do it. Well done!

I prefer carved plugs. I have used putty as well, but its more difficult to get the detail you can get with a carved plug. It's faster though, if that matters. I think a carved plug will hold up better over time if you use your carving for items that will be used. If they are wall hangers, it shouldn't matter. When is up to you. If you have the time and energy, make a carved plug. There is no real reason to use one over the other apart from what I have mentioned above, and thats's just personal preference.

Most bikers like their gear to be pretty heavy so 9 )Z veg tanned leather would be a good start for that type of stuff. You can go a little lighter or heavier but 9 is a good start. I like brass YYK zippers for biker wallets, but I almost never get a request for a zipper. Most people want a fold over closure or nothing at all. Interior zippers should be lighter weight, I use plastic most of the time but I have been known to use brass as well. Chains can be found almost anywhere made ready to use. Bay, Etsy and Ohio travel bag all carry them. You can also find chain maille biker chains that are really cool. Other hardware can be sourced from places like aliexpress, the buckle guy and the like.

I would suggest you find a pattern specifically for leather clothing if possible. The reason is that you need to account for the thickness of the leather compared to cloth. While deer skin is pretty thin, it still has a lot more bulk than cloth so for example, sleeves that fit in a cloth pattern would likely be too tight with leather. It's the same as measuring a belt. The thicker the leather, the longer the belt needs to be to compensate for the thickness. Hope this puts you on the right path.

You are most welcome. I appreciate the thanks, and I hope it helps. Jeff, Happy Thanksgiving, bud.

You can use any of the following with equal effect, and in my experience there is zero difference as far as the leather is concerned. Isopropyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol, denatured alcohol or any combination of the above will reduce your dye. Just for fun, here's the pertinent MSDS sheet from Fiebing's that shows they use a combination themselves. You can avoid shipping and go the the pharmacy on the corner and probably get all three kinds. https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/docs/default-source/sds/Fiebings-Leather-Dye-Reducer-50-2049.pdf?sfvrsn=2

Glad to be able to help.

It’s two apps on my smart phone. Photo overlay and screen record. You can easily compare your art to the photo this way. Actually, you don’t need screen record. I just did that for you so you could see it. Notice how the things that are dead on stay still and those those that are a little off seem to move? Your eyes and nose are perfect.

Here is something I do to help if I am struggling with a piece. 351726A3-10F1-4DB8-A284-9F7E271BDA27.MOV

I wouldn't call it seriously missed, as he is still recognizable an every well done, just refining the details for 100% accuracy

Pardon the crude markup of this picture, but the lines show what I mean more specifically.

Andrey, after comparing the original picture to your piece I realized what was bothering me. The top of his head is more pointed in the picture. Yours is more rounded. A subtle difference, but it stands out to my eye. Also, the right side(Viewer's left) cheek crease by the nose has a curve that doesn't exist on the original. But the other side does. Its almost as if you swapped those lines somehow. These are the small details I was talking about the other day.

Andrey, the skin texture is excellent. Again, your nose and lips are perfect. Watch out for the eyebrows. It looks like you made indentations for the hairs as opposed to raising them up. Its a lot of work to raise them but its worth the effort. Wow...that I have never seen!

I'd say you've got a handle on it!

Sean Connery has a very distinct accent. Ah well, never mind!

That's pretty good Andrey...earsh sare a bitch, eh? Bet you heard that in his voice

If you get a thick straight edge, like a meter long aluminum one, you can clamp it down in a few spots before cutting. PITA but works every time for straight cuts.

A properly refurbished one from years past will do those straps with ease. Deals are great, but only if you get exactly what you want. Good man!

Just so we’re clear, there is no oil in oil/pro dye. According to the Fiebings rep I spoke with a few years ago the only difference between the two dyes is the quality of the pigment. You’ll get a lot less excess dyestuffs on the surface of the leather, hence the more even color, but both are alcohol based dyes. The chemical composition is identical. MSDS will show this as well. Its is an urban myth among leather workers that oil dye has an oil base. This is simply not true and it is specifically why Fiebings changed the name to pro dye. youre experience may differ, can’t say why that is, but it’s not because of any oil content in the dye. Hope this helps.

https://www.amazon.com/Fiebings-Prime-Neatsfoot-Compound-gallon/dp/B00A2X6ED2

Maybe neatsfoot compound? I had a can of that it smelled pretty bad.

Hey, Iris. So, pro dye wont work any differently in regards to stiffness, but you will see a noticeable improvement in evenness of coverage, depending on how you're applying it. I think that if you're making the leather stiff, you're applying it too heavily. This is a very common occurrence with dip dyeing and heavy application with a dauber. Its better to sneak up on your color with a few lighter applications than one heavy one. Easier to control and more even results. BTW, blue is one of the most difficult colors to use, apart form purple which is the worst. As for oil, there is a great debate on whether or not its needed. Personally, I don't think it is. Maybe for saddles and horse tack, but for most things its simply not needed. People slap that crap all over their projects and then wonder why it looks dark or splotchy. However, I DO oil lightly between coats of dye when I use an airbrush because it helps set the previous color and helps the new layer absorb better. Buddy of mine gave me that tip and it works great on fades. Airbrush can be very topical and anything to make it sink in more helps. The type of alcohol you use to thin your dye can affect stiffness, so I recommend denatured alcohol. That's what is in the dyes, and its the best for the pigment as well. Other kinds will work but your mileage may vary. Lastly, the type and thickness of the leather makes a difference as well. Thin leather will get crispy pretty easily while thicker leather maintains its suppleness longer. The alcohol in the dye affects the fillers in the leather, fats, collagen etc., so the thinner the leather, the lighter the coat should be. If you can't avoid saturating the leather, replacing some of the suppleness with oil will help, but you must account for the change in color when you dye or it will be darker than you intended during dyeing. My suggestion is to look at the method you use to apply it and experiment with others until you find what works best for you.

See? Silver lining! Guess I'll have to start buying better wine...:P

What's wrong with faux cork?